Mercury - Capri :: 1974 Master Cylinder Location?
Nov 10, 2013
I own a 1974 Mercury Capri and I am having trouble finding a master cylinder. Where I can locate one?
View 8 RepliesI own a 1974 Mercury Capri and I am having trouble finding a master cylinder. Where I can locate one?
View 8 RepliesI have installed an auxiliary electric fan at the radiator on our 1973 Mercury Capri and it’s controlled by an adjustable thermostatic switch. Wanting to know when the fan comes on, I wired an LED indicator light to fan side of the thermostatic switch and mounted it inside the car. Mission failure.
The light comes on just from leakage through the thermostat. Ok, I figured maybe this is an LED issue. But no, a test with an incandescent bulb showed the same issue.
If the pilot light is going to glow all the time (dim at idle and brighter with revs, by the way), then it’s no good for the purpose intended. A resistor, maybe?
Car: 1973 Mercury Capri 2.0, four speed. Lovingly restored over the past three years. The car has Ford aftermarket air conditioning, recently serviced with R-12 (past two weeks) and I have never used it until this past weekend (I bought the car and then restored it). We used it in 90 degree heat and this little car did great even in the mountains of W.Va (60 mph uphill with A/C!) But I digress. For five minutes after being turned on, the A/C cools as expected - a real champ -- no issues.
Then, it begins a cycle like this: The air starts to get progressively warmer for about 10 seconds. Then, there is a squeak, a drop in motor rpm as the A/C/ clutch engages, and it has cold air again for 20 seconds. Then the cycle again. This is the behavior whether at idle or at highway speed. It has its own two knob control panel -- not connected to the heater controls. The fan speed is on high and the "cold" knob is turned all the way cold. Turned "warmer" it does as expected - very little cold air. It seems like a thermostatic control is telling it to disengage the clutch even though it should not -- the cabin is cool but not cool enough to justify that.
Yesterday evening I drove through a flooded area of the road, probably about 1.5 feet deep. I did not realize it was quite that deep. The water came through the floor, and probably soaked my ECU.
The engine died, but will idle very rough. I doubt I got water in the cylinders, not much at least, because the engine turned over no problem. I also have an air filter that would be difficult to get too much water into from the way it is situated.
It is putting out white smoke that smells like gas (a lot initially, now not as much), and the engine is smoking a little as well...white, gas odor...I think it is coming out around the exhaust manifold.4
It is running very rough, sounds like from 2 cylinders, and after letting it idle in the hopes of drying everything out, I noticed that the fuel gauge is at empty...it was at 3/4 earlier.
What should I start by doing?
One of the possible locations for the CD changer for my 2004 Mercury Sable in the Owner's Manual said right side cargo area storage compartment. Is that the back of the wagon?
View 2 RepliesWhich line goes to front brakes and which to rear from the master cylinder?
View 1 RepliesVehicle is an '86 Comanche 2.5L. Tested the battery at standing and charging, came to 12.8 standing and 14.7 charging. The alternator relay clicks, though that doesn't necessarily mean it's in good working order.
Any electrical load applied; headlights, taillights, hazards, blinkers, etc. kill the engine.
The clutch master cylinder is leaking onto the fuse box, though I moved it as best I could as I don't have the funds for a new master cylinder right now and I'm not sure which fuses, capacitors, and relays do what on the fuse box as the writing is barely noticeable.
I had this sad puppy noise coming from my brakes so I have now replaced my brake booster. When doing so I took my old brake master cylinder and put it on my new brake booster. When trying to bench bleed it it only came fluid from the P marked circuit. It came no fluid from "S". I guess it stands for primary and secondary.
I thought it was because I couldn't press the piston hard enough so I installed it in the car so I could use the brake pedal to get more power. But still no fluid from "S". Is the brake master cylinder faulty? The rear discs are unevenly worn.
I bought a new clutch master cylinder for my 1960 Land Rover. I have swapped these in and out and rebuilt or replaced them many times over the years. This is the first time I've seen one fail this way, and it is brand new out of the box. In my opinion, the seal at the back of the cylinder that is supposed to close off the reservoir from the inside of the cylinder, well, isn't. So, it is pushing fluid up into the reservoir instead of down through the lines. Have a look at a this video...... [URL] ....
View 4 RepliesI replaced my MC cap and gasket less than a year ago with a Dorman replacement and I'm leaking again, already. I don't want this to be an annual thing! Any good quality replacement? Is there any tip or trick to get the gasket to seal better?
View 9 RepliesThe new to me 2012 dually has lost its keyless entry code card. I know on the 08-10 models you could look up behind the radio to see the code. Looking for physical location on the 6.7 family?
View 8 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford Explorer Sport 4.0 SOHC.
I change the rotor, calipers, and pads on the front end.
When I went to bleed the brakes I got some fluid, then I got none.
I can hear fluid squishing around up near the master cylinder, but none coming to the caliper.
I see a bleeder screw on the master cylinder.
Before the car came to me the person had, had low fluid, but had brakes. Now the pedal just goes all the way to the floor with no effort.
There are no leaks or broken lines anywhere.
I'm having trouble bleeding the air out of my slave cylinder or master cylinder in my clutch system. I've been trying for a couple days now is there a trick to this?
View 7 RepliesI have leased my 2012 prius since April 2012 and about a year ago I began to notice the following noise originating from the master cylinder/ABS unit. The noise happens if I push the pedal firmly to the floor and occasionally during regular braking. The braking system seems to be working fine and regen braking is functional. I am wondering if this noise is a sign of an imminent failure.
Listen to audio recording....
I have a '99 Silverado 250 with a leak between the brake reservoir and the master cyl. Mechanics tell me there is no gasket. How can I get it to stop leaking?
View 12 RepliesEarly 70's Ford truck. The brake MC fluid is filled but not overfilled, and doesn't leak at all when the truck is parked. It can sit there for a month and never leak a drop, parked. But when I drive the truck, even just around the block, then park, and look inside the engine compartment immediately the brake MC is dripping brake fluid. It appears the leaking mode is by the fluid somehow jumping up and coming over the top edge of the MC when the truck is in motion or when the brakes are applied. All my diy'er years of replacing brake master cylinders on Ford Galaxies, VW Rabbits, Corollas, and this truck, I've never seen this kind of weird brake problem before. On this MC design it seems there's sort of a rubber baffle inside the lid of the MC, and that's present and accounted for.
View 17 RepliesLong Story short: Brakes replaced at local dealer (courtesy offer from Toyota Corporate). I paid dealer, submitted invoice and received reimbursement. Service tech replaced front pads and rotors. Everything seemed fine until the day I popped the hood to detail the engine. Noticed that the fluid level in the master cylinder was at the cap and the cap itself had "popped" due to the excess pressure in the system. Brought the car back to the dealer. I was reassured that after draining off the excess fluid, the braking system would be OK. I disagreed.
View 7 RepliesMy 2003 Toyota 4 Runner with 104K miles recently started showing a brake light off and on. The brake fluid reservoir was at the minimum level and there was some residue leaking from the bottom near a silver disc. Took it to a mechanic and was told it was most likely the master cylinder leaking brake fluid. Is this normal wear and tear or is it unusual in this vintage vehicle? I do not notice any brake slippage at this point. Should I take this to the dealer and ask why this master cylinder is faulty? I thought Toyotas were long life vehicles?
View 2 Replies92 Regal Custom, 3.8L .... I need to replace master cylinder on mother in laws car. How do I determine if it has the Durastop brake system or not?? Any factory code in glove box or trunk, if so what is the code to look for?
View 2 RepliesLost braking power. Replaced master cylinder. Brakes went soft again. Shop says it is something to do with the ABS Control Unit (?). Took it to dealer who said it is a leaking master cylinder. Back to shop which claims nothing wrong with new master cylinder and it i the ABS blah blah. Dealer says it can't be ABS. Went to another shop. Replaced master cylinder again. Brakes still soft. No one can figure this out and I am stuck with very soft brakes.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 F150 FX4 Ecoboost w/ 37K. I recently had to have the master cylinder replaced along w/ all my brake pads because it was not disengaging the calipers properly, so all of my pads were prematurely worn and cracked. I was wondering, it seems like this shouldn't happen on a truck this "young".
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