Mercury :: Fuel Pump Stays On When Ignition Is Off
Mar 26, 2011
The fuel pump on my 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis is still running after turning the ignition off, causing the battery to drain. Replacing the fuel pump relay stops this from happening for a short time but it soon reoccurs. Is it possible there is a short in the ignition system, or is this a sign that the fuel pump is going out?
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Without key even in ignition, fuel pump relay clicks constantly every 8 seconds with the gauge lights illuminating during this 8 seconds. The only lights that function are the gauge lights. Upon turning on the headlight switch only the gauge lights illumin8. Absolutely no headlights, dome light or brake lights. No fuel pump sense/pulse. No radio, key on or in accessories.
Multi-function switch was not the issue. How would I troubleshoot this one?
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I have a 2001 f350 v10 that has been giving me fits. has 88000 miles. cranks and starts when cold or fuel pressure is below 40 psi. SES light will flash when it stalls and fuel pressure goes from 30 while running to 40 and the fuel pump runs continuously when this happens and truck will not start. replaced crank sensor and fuel pump was changed about two months ago. if I relieve fuel pressure it will start and run for short time then stall and fuel pump stays on. all fuses are good. I am at a loss.
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I have a 2004 MY05 Jap built AWD RX330 that won't start. It is almost 12 yrs old & has 115k miles on it. This is the very 1st problem I've had with it.
Some quick checks indicate that it may be power supply to fuel pump or fuel pump itself. No sounds from it when turning ignition on.
Any wiring diagram for the 5 pin plug for the fuel pump? I'd like to put a meter on it or connect 12V to the pump directly before I remove it.
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Having a problem with the fuel pump engaging. Warm or cold same problem. When I turn the ignition on I can hear the fuel pump engage and the car runs fine on start. Other times I turn the ignition on and don't hear the pump engage, thus no start. But repeatedly turning the ignition on an off I get the fuel pump to engage and I have start, will run until I shut it down. been doing this for a couple of weeks now. Is this an ignition thing or fuel pump? No wiring diagram. Replaced all relays, battery good. Never did anything with the fuel system.
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In the mornings when I turn the ignition switch to on right before starting, I don't hear the fuel pump wining. I notice the wining on almost every other car that Ive drove. I don't know if its because of this I get a rough start. It usually happens only in the mornings especially on cold days. During the rest of the day I can hear it clear and it turns on right away with no problem. I have tried to turn the ignition switch on then off then back on to see if the pump would turn on but nothing. Also sometimes I have to keep the gas pedal down about half ways for it to turn on and not stall. Tomorrow I am going to check to see if any fuel lines are clogged.
Car is a 2000 accent gs 1.5l 12sohc ... With about 87500 miles on it ...
Anything I should replace with these many miles ... Planning to replace spark plugs and timing belt myself ...
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I have a '96 Dodge Stratus that keeps blowing fuse #20, which is for the fuel pump and the ignition. How to isolate the problem? This happens as soon as the key is turned on. The car has 140,000 miles and runs excellent otherwise.
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Intermittent fuel pump problems in '96 Dodge ram resulted in new fuel pump 50,000 miles ago. Happened again 100 miles ago, so another new fuel pump. Now to start car must turn the ignition on several times before going to the start position. It appears the latest new pump may have defective one way check valve, so the pressure is depleting after turn off. Any favorite brand of fuel pump for the Dodge "pump in the gas tank" arrangement? Or solutions such as installing an external pump to do the work of pumping the fuel?
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2009 Ford Focus. Six months ago got in car returning from 60 mile trip. Turned ignition key heard fuel pump hum but no juice to ignition. (Not anti-theft lockout--security light behaved normally.) Would not take jump. Ford Roadside assistance tried everything else possible. Nothing. Towed to nearest Ford dealer. On arrival, car started immediately. Took to local Ford dealer who found absolutely no problems but ran TSB 10-21-8 reprogram PCM--test OK. Had no further problems with car until a week-and-a-half ago--same thing happened. Car towed to dealer again. Started immediately at dealer! Picked up from dealer, that night same thing happened. Did not phone roadside assistance--after 45 minutes car inexplicably started. That was a week ago. No problems since then. Feeling a little panicky w/car that may fail at any time--winter coming.
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Lately when i take my key out of the ignition, my radio stays on and my car will chime with the door open as if the key was still in the ignition (and it lasts for different periods of time). I also have found it more difficult to get the key in and out. Obviously there is something wrong with the ignition.
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Ok so I just got HID's put in the GLI and now when I take my key out of the ignition my heater fan stays on till I turn off my lights... does this sound normal?
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This just started today and when I turned off my car and removed the key from the ignition, the radio stayed on. Also, when I opened the door, the door chime came on as if the lights were still on and now I'm not able to lock the car or set the alarm using my key. I've read that some vw cars are wired so that the radio stays on after the car is turned off, but this has never been the case with my car. My main concern is battery drainage and being unable to lock and arm my alarm.
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I own a 2013 Elantra GT that my wife drives. We have had it since late September 2012, so it is about 20 months old now, with only 2250 miles. Yes, I know, it is not even broken in yet.
Anyway, yesterday when the wife returned from some shopping she told me that the radio in the car is still on after the engine was off, the ignition locked and the key in your hand.
I checked it out, and sure enough, the radio was still on. I restarted the car, and discovered the power button would not turn the radio off, the radio volume could not be changed, and the station could not be changed. Every control for the Audio system was inoperative, along with all the control buttons on the left side of the steering wheel.
Every thing else in the car appeared to work. When I shut the engine off, and removed the key, the radio still played on. I took the car over to the dealership first thing this morning; the service rep, the service manager and a service tech could not figure it out. I had to leave the car with them, so that one of their Electronic Certified Techs who comes in later could check it out.
They drove the car to a service bay, and disconnected the battery, so the radio would not run the battery down. When the tech came in, he reconnected the battery, and everything now works. They have no idea at all what happened.
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My 1999 GMC Sonoma has a occaisonal problem--the tail lights stay lit after the light switch and the ignition are turned off. The brake pedal does not appear to be sticking. The cure has been to remove both light bulbs, wait a few minutes, plug them back in, and all is well. This might happen an average of once a month, seems more common in hot weather.
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Ok, so I'm working on a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, 93,000 miles. The vehicle runs great! So great that you cant get it to stop running!! The problem is intermittent and generally happens after the vehicle has been running for at least 3 minutes. I turn the key off and she keeps on running (not dieseling, but running at 340-450 rpms!) I have already removed the aftermarket remote start that was installed on the vehicle thinking that was the problem, it was not. Then I went to the ignition switch and unplugged that, also to no avail! I plugged my scan tool in and can communicate with the computer and view pids while the key is on. When I turn the key off, I should loose communication. When everything acting normal and the car actually shuts off with the key, I loose communication with the computer upon turning the key off. When I turn the key off and the veh. keeps running, I do NOT loose communication with the pcm. The only way to shut the car off is to step on the gas pedal. Otherwise it'll run at 400 or so RPM for an hour or so!!
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So yesterday i got my windshield tinted at a shop and now im having issues. My ac stays on when the key is out of the ignition i can use all settings from low to high. My windshield wipers only work in neutral and park. Im calling them when they open but i think the water they spray on the tint got down in the dash and fried something.
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Purchased a 2007 Kia Sedona EX today for my daughter. Once it got home from the dealership we got washed out! When my daughter started the car the wiper fluid hit the windshield until it was empty and then the pump continued to run. Each time I turned off the ignition and started the van and turned on the wipers (rainy Seattle evening) I could hear the pump continue to run. Finally, I pulled the fuse so the pump would not burn up. This van is in excellent condition with only 48K miles. Am I in for electrical problems with this van or is this a fluke?
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ok, i just became the proud owner of a 71 dodge dart.. fuel pump was not working, and am converting to an electric (airtex e8016s) and am told i need a relay. airtex doesn't seem to have one, is there another i can use? fairly new at this sort of thing, but have fixed a 72 honda motorbike, so not afraid of engines or whatnot.
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Believe an engine temperature sensor is bad. I took it in to get a code read, and they said it could be either temp sensor or fan switch, but didn't know which one without newer software.
Codes are
19537 - Engine Temperate too Low
P3081 - 008 - Implausible Signal
I've checked the fuse legend to see if there is a fuse I can pull, but none of them marked fan seem to kill it after the car is off, so that I can save some battery power.
I believe that I have narrowed it down to the engine coolant temperature sensor. What is the level of job this is to replace? From a parts location manual, it looks like it is in the Thermostat housing, but I'm not sure where that is.
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I drive a 02' Camry SE V6 ... The VSC, TRAC OFF, and the Engine check light appeared one day shortly after I started the car. Along with that, I have to push the gas pedal all the way down for the car to move; smooth launch, opposite of full throttle, and the RPM stays at 2000 unless I pump the pedal. A few restarts later, all of the lights disappear but the throttle problem remains.
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I have a 1995 lumina. Yesterday the oil light came on. There is plenty of oil but the light stays on. I'm thinking it is either the oil pump or the sensor. How do I determine which???
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