I have my second 1999 as class Mercedes and both have the same problem. The door assist system stop working on the passenger door in the trunk. The only way to get it working again is to remove the fuse associated with that system and reseat it.
View 1 Replies1999MB 320 Automatic trans .... Stopped at a light went to start heard a loud bang car became motionless? Trans has 60k and never a shifting issue.
View 1 RepliesLast Saturday I was driving my 1999 Mercedes ML320 SUV (163,000 miles) on a highway in California (for about 70 miles) when suddenly I saw a huge cloud of smoke behind me but I didn’t hear any noise and didn’t notice any change in the car driving. I was not sure if it was my car or somebody else car. On Sunday I was driving on a city street and suddenly I saw the same smoke but not of that extent but with a rattle from the back side of the car. I quickly stopped on a side street and saw whitish/bluish smoke from the tailpipe. In a couple of minutes, the smoke disappeared and I drove the car back home. No more smoke since then. I checked the code and it showed P0700 (is there for a couple of months) and P0442 (new code). I called a couple of mechanics and one checked the car but none knows what caused the smoke. The mechanic said that P0442 is not the cause of the smoke. The engine oil is still good and to the max. A mechanic recently replaced the EGR valve. Can I drive the car or I might do more damage?
View 2 RepliesMercedes Benz C240 ... Every time I come to a stop, the car seems to be gasping for breath and attempt to want to stall. Occasionally the battery/alternator light comes up. It has not stalled yet and seems to catch its breath and continues once I step on the gas after the shake and after there was an air rush through the vents (I called-Caching its breath). I took it in to the dealer and the electrical was checked and they found nothing.
View 6 RepliesOK, so this is a 2012 ML350 Blue-tech with around 31,000 miles on it. Lately when it is warm (either by driving for 30 minutes or more, or by outside temperature of 80 plus), it has been making the strangest front end groaning noise when coming to a stop and when pulling away. It sounds like the front end suspension is "groaning". It doesn't have to be a hard stop, gentle will do just fine. The car comes to a halt, the front end dips slightly - "groooaaan" (perhaps more on the rebound than the initial dip). You start up again, the front end unloads, and "groan".
Very disconcerting on a car as smart as this. Tom and Ray know this car - this is the one with the "smart radio" (switches channels at voice command…) The dealer is stumped. They have the car for the third time now and even though both a mechanic and the shop foreman have been shown the problem (taken for a test drive ), they have been unable to come up with either a diagnosis or a fix. They replaced the front sway bar links once to no avail.
2001 MB E320. While traveling at the posted speed, 75mph the accelerator quits working. The speed control will still work and the accelerator will work after some play and time. When I stop the car and turn off the ignition and then start the car again the accelerator works fine. This has happened only twice but I'm afraid it will continue and happen more often. I traced the accelerator cable to a small box on the left side pf the engine.
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 E320 (131K miles) had been intermittingly flashing a red "Battery/Alternator Stop Vehicle" light and annoying alarm sound as well as a "Malfunction Electrical Consumers Turned Off" sign. Then three days ago the "check engine" light came on; went away the next day. Then yesterday the engine completely shut down on me.
The car started the today; took it to mechanic who says it could be alternator or wiring problem. Suggested I take it to MB dealer to get diagnosis before shelling out 800 bucks on an unnecessary car part. My question: should i take it to MB dealer or just replace the part? (I am not original owner; don't know if alternator's ever been replaced).
A few months ago I bought a used 2007 Mercedes C280. Overall, I've been very happy with the car. The first month or so was heavy on longer highway driving, and it seemed to be getting decent gas mileage. The last couple of months have been mostly short range city driving, and the mileage seems significantly less. I wonder about the idle speed, on the assumption that it may be wasting a lot of gas sitting at stop lights and in traffic. The tachometer reading isn't always consistent at idle, but fairly often it's up close to 9,000 rpm. What should I be seeing, and does this need attention?
View 6 RepliesMy 1999 Mercedes ML 320 with 180K started ticking when my wife turned the temperature control from cold to hot last week. Before this, it ran fine with a fairly new a/c installed - ~1 year ago. It was a cool morning. I started the car and she turned the control from blue to red. The ticking sound started immediately and only cooler air came out.
The a/c also does not blow cool air anymore either. The ticking is constant and low when the controller is in the blue and louder and faster when the control is turned to red. What happened, what the problem may be, and repair options? I haven't taken it in to my mechanic yet and would like to get some preliminary thoughts.
I have a 1974 Mercedes 280 C. Two of the power windows no longer work...the driver rear (stuck down) and the passenger front (stuck up). The problem started with middle console switches...the right bank (passenger controls) the small chrome surrounding piece popped off and caused the switches to get stuck then fall apart. I was trying to put them back together and got a spark...ooops car was on and i was using metal tweezers...then the rear driver side no longer worked??? others work. Do the switches need to be replaced or is it a bigger electrical problem. Checked fuses...all fine.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Mercedes E class, 4Matic. Over the last 7 years the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System)/EPS (Electronic Stability Program)/BAS (Braking Assist Program) warning light comes on and when I stop the car and start again, the light goes away. When this light comes on, only thing I noticed is the cruise control does not work, otherwise, no other problem. I took it to the service station one time, but that light did not come on and they did not do anything.The car has 105,000 miles. Now, when the light comes on it stays on longer and sometimes, I have turn the car on and off several times before light will go away.I am afraid to take it to the Mercedes dealer, as they might find a problem when no problem is there. Whether this is just glitch in the software or there is a real problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1989 Mercedes 300F, automatic transmission, with 175,000 miles (give or take). It runs great, starts well, we have no problem driving it 30 miles back and forth on back roads up to 60 mph. The problem seems to be when driving 40 miles at 75 mph. At that point, it will start to run rough, and then will not go over 40 mph without whining. The first time this happened, I had a leak in the transmission fixed and fluid put in. The second time, I had the fluid and filter changed, a new alternator, and a complete tune up. For a month after that we drove it for miles but not on the highway, with no problem. I thought I would chance it on a longer trip, got 40 miles down the highway at 75 mph when suddenly it started acting up and had to call a tow truck. When the tow truck arrived, we did not see any fluid under the car. It's been sitting in the driveway and now there are fluid leaks (appears to be oil). So, does it sound like something in the transmission, or maybe a bad alternator?
View 9 RepliesWhile on way to parts store car started acting like it was running out of gas. A half block from gas station it quit . I walked to station got gas put in the tank the engine would crank but would not start. I got towed home and still will not start. It will crank but that's it. 3.0 L inline 6 300 E ...
View 5 RepliesThe check engine light is on. Yesterday twice I had the situation where when I turned the key to start. The starter motor was crankin and it was not firing. I pumped the throttle a few times to let air/gas into engine. I also opened the gasoline tank cover (where you insert the nozzle to pump gas) for a few mins and then shut it and started the car. It started. After running for 20 mins it happened again. The starter motor has to crank for some 10 seconds before it fires. Then no issues. What do you think it is??? Battery is fine, starter motor is fine since its cranking away. I am suspecting fuel pump ?
View 19 RepliesI have a 91 Mercedes with 153,000 miles thats terrific but the mystery leak in the hydraulic running the rear suspension is driving me nuts. Especially when the hydraulics call for factory spec fluid.
View 3 RepliesI have a '05 Mercedes CLK320 convertible that I purchased 3 years ago with about 29,000 miles on it. Two years ago the hydraulic lines in the top blew and I spent about $3,000 to have it repaired. Today, the lines blew again. What I'm trying to find out is: - Is this common in this car? Or in any convertible?- Did I just get a lemon?- If this isn't a common problem, should the dealer that repaired the hydraulics 2 years ago fix them again for free?
It only has 70,000 miles on it now and I was under the impression that I could drive a Mercedes for a couple hundred thousand miles without a too much mechanical problem. But if this is going to be an ongoing issue, I'm going to get rid of the car, even though I absolutely love it. It's ruby red, of course!
My brakes squeak from time to time, particularly backing up, but also braking forward. My mechanic said I have plenty of brake pad and nothing is being damaged. He said he has often seen the "squeaky brakes" problem in Mercedes and it is often difficult to pinpoint which wheel (or wheels) would be the cause of the squeaking (sound like metal on metal). Why this is happening?
View 2 RepliesMy 1994 mercedes C220 stalls at idle. the local mercedes dealer told me that it is caused by the alternator overcharging. can this be true??
View 2 RepliesCar starts intermittently, have heard this is common on Mercedes Benz cars, whats the fix? I do my own maintenance on my cars have tools ect.
View 9 RepliesI own a used 2004 Mercedes C320 4Matic. I bought it with 57k miles. I drive it about 150 miles per week. The reseller told me i needed engine mount replacements at 67k. The car did have a vibration, which I was sort of ignoring, so I had the work done. Now, the vibration persists.
It is most noticable in the morning upon start-up, at an idle. But it is also noticable when the car is warm and I am stopped at a light. It can also be noticed as a subtle vibration in the steering wheel at highway speed.
I am very sure it is not wheel balance or rotors (hey, I can feel it at a stop). I brought it back to the dealer, who said after 5 hours of diagnosis, they could findind nothing wrong.
Last week I noticed that my engine (2006 ML350 33,000 miles )was not sounding as it normally does. I called my foreign car repair shop that normally maintains my car but could not get an appointment for several days.
My husband thought that it was possibly a bad bearing in one of the belt pulleys near power steering pump. The noise was getting louder so my shop looked at it sooner and determined I needed a power steering pump, reservoir, gasket, fluid,accessory belt tensioner and belt.
I had no choice but to get the repair.When I picked up my car it still didn't sound right. I was told it would take a little time to break in. Well all week my car was making a lot of different sounds until it got so loud I wouldn't drive it. I took it in today and got the call that it needed what I think was called a/c tensioner pulley. I just want to know if this seems possible. (Car drove fine and no problems with steering before first repair).