Mercedes-benz - M-class :: Engine Stumbles When Hit A Spot Of Rough Pavement Or Minor Bump
Jun 16, 2013
2000 ML430 230,000 mi. The engine starts and all is fine until I hit a spot of rough pavement or a minor bump and the engine "stumbles," feels like it has cut out or starving for fuel. I have been unable to tell whether it is left front or rear right tire or corner of the car that hits the bump and starts the engine running on limp home.Once it happens and I stop at a light then hit the gas, I can count to 4 before the engine responds, making left turns dangerous. MB factory service since new. The dealer has replaced spark plug wires, spark plugs, crankcase sensor, gas pedal sensor and still the same problem. I think it is a loose wire or ground since it only happens after I go over a bump(even a seam on concrete any jiggle does it).
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Recently I brought my car for an oil change. They put the recommended full synthetic oil in and when I left the cel starting blinking and the car idling extremely rough. I brought the car immediately back (only drove ~1/4 mi.). They discovered that they put too much oil in the car. Despite their efforts of removing oil and changing filter x2, they could not get the cel to stop blinking or the car running correctly. I brought the car to the closest repair facility with diagnostic capability and they noted the car was still 1qt overfull and multiple misfire, and cam shaft actuator codes were happening. Car was towed to dealership where they diagnosed fouled plugs attributed to too much oil. Oil change facility paid towing, repair and diagnostic bills for their mistake. In the subsequent 2 weeks my car was towed two more times to dealership. Once for going into limp mode after misfires and once for fuel pump dying. Is this all a coincidence or could this be repercussions from botched oil change? Dealership says it is just coincidental.
Car is a 2007 Mercedes clk350 cabriolet.
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I've got a merc C230 Kompressor that has 174k miles on it. The car typically runs really well and is not underpowered or anything. Last weekend I took a road trip that was 400 miles or so. The car did fine for the first 300 miles but then began running rough and was underpowered. Was acting like there was a fouled plug. I pulled over and stopped the car where it sat for about 5 mins. When I restarted the car, it was back to normal, with a smooth idle and not underpowered. It ran fine for about 30 mins and then began running rough and underpowered. I find that when it starts running rough, if I stop the car and turn it all the way off for at least 60 seconds, then when i turn it back on it will operate normally again for a bit. This also only seems to be happening when its really hot weather, 90 degrees F or higher.
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My 2000 Mercedes C230 Kompressor's been riding rough, particularly at low speeds and when idling. I took it in to see if engine mounts needed replacement, and yes they do, but my mechanic also found that I've blown or cracked the head gasket. Coolant has solidified around the gasket, keeping it from leaking now, but he indicated that with the next rain, that solidified coolant would be washed away and the car wouldn't be able to hold coolant. The car has 160,000 miles, recent brakes and tune up (should he have seen the gasket problem at tune up???).
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Hot or cold car always starts,Idles perfect , then RPM drops, Idles rough and stalls. Econometer moves to Red area.car will easily restart and drives well,it also idles well. Once engine is shut down, even for a short while, It does the same thing again. Car is used for short trips. Ambient Temperature 80 degrees. Once running car is perfect at all speeds and idles smoothly. Hero 1987 MB 560 sel ....
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I filled up my car at the local gas station. It had been raining non-stop for the past three days and nights. 10-15 minutes later as I'm stopped at a light, the car starts shuddering, almost stalls a few times. Rough idle all the way home.
I limp home, guessing water in the fuel. Next day I go to Advance Auto and buy some fuel additives which are supposed to solve the water problem. The guy there mentions that he's had a number of reports of similar issues from this particular gas station (it's now out of business, go figure). Additives make things better but not fully.
2 tanks of gas later now and the rough idle is much better but not gone. Car seems to have less power and sounds a little bit raspy on acceleration (not noticeable unless driving near a wall which can bounce the sound back). My guess is that one of the cylinders is not firing, maybe needs a new spark plug?
The more worrisome thing is that as the car has started running more smoothly I've also noticed a smell of gas after startup (may still be there when running but I don't notice it then) -- coming from the exhaust. This seems to be in-line with the missing cylinder theory but I'm running blind here as I don't have much experience on this topic.
The car's a 1997 C280. 130K on it. It's old but mechanically the thing has been a tank so far (Inline 6 I think) -- very sturdy and responsive. I'm hoping that this whole ordeal hasn't done permanent damage.
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My 2001 Mercedes CLK320 has ~150k on it. The maintenance etc. has been kept up to date. A few months ago the car engine started to run noisily and began to vibrate. It's worse when it's cold out or if the car is at stopped but not in park (like when you're at a stop light or drive thru). The vibration and noisy engine running lessen considerable after the car runs for a while and if the car is in the park. I already had a tune up by the MB dealer about 9 months ago. Diagnosis? Also, I'm obviously at that point where the dealer service shop no longer makes sense. I'm going to drive this car (hopefully) beyond 200k, however, it would be nice to get rid of this problem. Otherwise, the car really is almost as good as new!
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I got oil in my coolant ...the engine has no water..trany is good too...when I drive the temperature is good, but when I'm at a stop it gets hotter...when I add oil that's whence I notice...could it be a simple fix or is it the gasket? 1989, Mercedez 260E, V6, 200k plus miles.....
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I've got a '99 Mercedes E320 and the lights have been getting brighter and dimmer depending on the RPM of the engine. For example, while in park and idle the interior lights will seem a little dim, but then if you rev the engine or start driving it will get a bit brighter.
This started suddenly last week, but I've never had any problems starting it. The water level in the battery was a little low, but I added distilled water and it's not improved.
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Driving on a trip, the check engine light comes on. The oil pressure is normal and the temp gauge is normal, the gas cap is properly sealed, is it ok to continue driving 2 to 3 hundred miles...
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This 92 MB E300 has been sitting around for the better part of the last two years for various reasons (have another car with better mileage, don't drive much anyways, no insurance on it, etc), and we've been trying to get it going again with some mixed luck. I just replaced one of the window regulators (cable busted) and the battery (alarm drained it dry), but now we're having trouble starting it. It doesn't happen every time, but when we try to start it, the starter motor seems to get going no problem and it turns pretty good, but it just won't catch consistently. Its almost like there's no fuel in there, or maybe no sparks or something? Sometimes it will catch for a second, but it takes a while. Usually, once it's going its good, but if we have to stop and wait at a red light, it will sometimes just die when shifting to drive (I usually put it in neutral and give some gas while waiting). Also sometimes just when it's in a low gear and shifts up it will die too. Then, we have trouble starting it up again!
So what's going on, do you think? I was thinking maybe something along the lines of the fuel pump, spark plug, or injectors, but what do I know? (not much).
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I have a beautiful 1987 560SL. My husband and I bought it about 17 years ago and lovingly refer to her as our mid-life crisis car. Truth be told, we're a bit past "mid" life now and have decided to sell it and let someone else enjoy her. Last summer she started to have an annoying issue and we "thought" it was fixed, but right after I started advertising, she started acting up again.The engine simply dies while driving. It always seems to happen when I've only driven about 5 miles and going rather slow - 20 to 30 mph. She'll start back up after a try or 2 and be fine. We took her to a local shop and the mechanic said one fuel pump was shot and the other was not working properly so we replaced both and all seemed fine the rest of the summer. We garage her for the winter as we live in the Rockies and she's not the most practical car to be driving in the snow and ice. This summer she started right up and was doing well until a few weeks ago - same problem.
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This morning while listening to cartalk I am stopped at a stop sign. I press on the gas to start off from stop - hear a loud bang as if I hit something. All of a sudden my engine is revving hard, whining noise but no power to drive. Luckily I had enough gradient to put the car in neutral and float it to a stop by the curb. Car does not move on Drive or Reverse but engine runs fine and revs up but no power to both axle. Where the issue is? The car is 82K miles and has driven great. where is the issue??? Axle break down/ CV joint break down/transfer case break down/ What is it?
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I have a 2001 Mercedes E class, 4Matic. Over the last 7 years the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System)/EPS (Electronic Stability Program)/BAS (Braking Assist Program) warning light comes on and when I stop the car and start again, the light goes away. When this light comes on, only thing I noticed is the cruise control does not work, otherwise, no other problem. I took it to the service station one time, but that light did not come on and they did not do anything.The car has 105,000 miles. Now, when the light comes on it stays on longer and sometimes, I have turn the car on and off several times before light will go away.I am afraid to take it to the Mercedes dealer, as they might find a problem when no problem is there. Whether this is just glitch in the software or there is a real problem.
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I have a 1989 Mercedes 300F, automatic transmission, with 175,000 miles (give or take). It runs great, starts well, we have no problem driving it 30 miles back and forth on back roads up to 60 mph. The problem seems to be when driving 40 miles at 75 mph. At that point, it will start to run rough, and then will not go over 40 mph without whining. The first time this happened, I had a leak in the transmission fixed and fluid put in. The second time, I had the fluid and filter changed, a new alternator, and a complete tune up. For a month after that we drove it for miles but not on the highway, with no problem. I thought I would chance it on a longer trip, got 40 miles down the highway at 75 mph when suddenly it started acting up and had to call a tow truck. When the tow truck arrived, we did not see any fluid under the car. It's been sitting in the driveway and now there are fluid leaks (appears to be oil). So, does it sound like something in the transmission, or maybe a bad alternator?
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While on way to parts store car started acting like it was running out of gas. A half block from gas station it quit . I walked to station got gas put in the tank the engine would crank but would not start. I got towed home and still will not start. It will crank but that's it. 3.0 L inline 6 300 E ...
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The check engine light is on. Yesterday twice I had the situation where when I turned the key to start. The starter motor was crankin and it was not firing. I pumped the throttle a few times to let air/gas into engine. I also opened the gasoline tank cover (where you insert the nozzle to pump gas) for a few mins and then shut it and started the car. It started. After running for 20 mins it happened again. The starter motor has to crank for some 10 seconds before it fires. Then no issues. What do you think it is??? Battery is fine, starter motor is fine since its cranking away. I am suspecting fuel pump ?
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I have a 91 Mercedes with 153,000 miles thats terrific but the mystery leak in the hydraulic running the rear suspension is driving me nuts. Especially when the hydraulics call for factory spec fluid.
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I have a '05 Mercedes CLK320 convertible that I purchased 3 years ago with about 29,000 miles on it. Two years ago the hydraulic lines in the top blew and I spent about $3,000 to have it repaired. Today, the lines blew again. What I'm trying to find out is: - Is this common in this car? Or in any convertible?- Did I just get a lemon?- If this isn't a common problem, should the dealer that repaired the hydraulics 2 years ago fix them again for free?
It only has 70,000 miles on it now and I was under the impression that I could drive a Mercedes for a couple hundred thousand miles without a too much mechanical problem. But if this is going to be an ongoing issue, I'm going to get rid of the car, even though I absolutely love it. It's ruby red, of course!
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My brakes squeak from time to time, particularly backing up, but also braking forward. My mechanic said I have plenty of brake pad and nothing is being damaged. He said he has often seen the "squeaky brakes" problem in Mercedes and it is often difficult to pinpoint which wheel (or wheels) would be the cause of the squeaking (sound like metal on metal). Why this is happening?
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My 1994 mercedes C220 stalls at idle. the local mercedes dealer told me that it is caused by the alternator overcharging. can this be true??
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