Mercedes-benz - E-class :: Engine Revving Hard - Whining Noise - No Power To Drive
Nov 6, 2011
This morning while listening to cartalk I am stopped at a stop sign. I press on the gas to start off from stop - hear a loud bang as if I hit something. All of a sudden my engine is revving hard, whining noise but no power to drive. Luckily I had enough gradient to put the car in neutral and float it to a stop by the curb. Car does not move on Drive or Reverse but engine runs fine and revs up but no power to both axle. Where the issue is? The car is 82K miles and has driven great. where is the issue??? Axle break down/ CV joint break down/transfer case break down/ What is it?
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My 2001 Mercedes CLK320 has ~150k on it. The maintenance etc. has been kept up to date. A few months ago the car engine started to run noisily and began to vibrate. It's worse when it's cold out or if the car is at stopped but not in park (like when you're at a stop light or drive thru). The vibration and noisy engine running lessen considerable after the car runs for a while and if the car is in the park. I already had a tune up by the MB dealer about 9 months ago. Diagnosis? Also, I'm obviously at that point where the dealer service shop no longer makes sense. I'm going to drive this car (hopefully) beyond 200k, however, it would be nice to get rid of this problem. Otherwise, the car really is almost as good as new!
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I have a 1998 Mercedes ML. In the past few weeks, there is quite a loud metallic knock when I start driving. It does not happen if I take off real slowly. What could be the cause?
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I've got a merc C230 Kompressor that has 174k miles on it. The car typically runs really well and is not underpowered or anything. Last weekend I took a road trip that was 400 miles or so. The car did fine for the first 300 miles but then began running rough and was underpowered. Was acting like there was a fouled plug. I pulled over and stopped the car where it sat for about 5 mins. When I restarted the car, it was back to normal, with a smooth idle and not underpowered. It ran fine for about 30 mins and then began running rough and underpowered. I find that when it starts running rough, if I stop the car and turn it all the way off for at least 60 seconds, then when i turn it back on it will operate normally again for a bit. This also only seems to be happening when its really hot weather, 90 degrees F or higher.
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Last week I noticed that my engine (2006 ML350 33,000 miles )was not sounding as it normally does. I called my foreign car repair shop that normally maintains my car but could not get an appointment for several days.
My husband thought that it was possibly a bad bearing in one of the belt pulleys near power steering pump. The noise was getting louder so my shop looked at it sooner and determined I needed a power steering pump, reservoir, gasket, fluid,accessory belt tensioner and belt.
I had no choice but to get the repair.When I picked up my car it still didn't sound right. I was told it would take a little time to break in. Well all week my car was making a lot of different sounds until it got so loud I wouldn't drive it. I took it in today and got the call that it needed what I think was called a/c tensioner pulley. I just want to know if this seems possible. (Car drove fine and no problems with steering before first repair).
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My 1999 Mercedes ML 320 with 180K started ticking when my wife turned the temperature control from cold to hot last week. Before this, it ran fine with a fairly new a/c installed - ~1 year ago. It was a cool morning. I started the car and she turned the control from blue to red. The ticking sound started immediately and only cooler air came out.
The a/c also does not blow cool air anymore either. The ticking is constant and low when the controller is in the blue and louder and faster when the control is turned to red. What happened, what the problem may be, and repair options? I haven't taken it in to my mechanic yet and would like to get some preliminary thoughts.
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I got oil in my coolant ...the engine has no water..trany is good too...when I drive the temperature is good, but when I'm at a stop it gets hotter...when I add oil that's whence I notice...could it be a simple fix or is it the gasket? 1989, Mercedez 260E, V6, 200k plus miles.....
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I have a serious suspicion that I have a timing chain rattle. Using a pipe I located the sound to the front of the engine. It ticks much faster than the injectors like more than ten times faster. There are a few different parts involved with the timing chain tension. I have 150k miles on this car.... MB 1995 c220 ....
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I got a Mercedes Benz, SL560, US style, 8 cylinders, from 1987, mileage around 130 000I got the camshafts, rockers, and valve changed these days as the lifters were a little worn out as I was told. So I decided to do it now than later. But since the mechanic changed them I get a bad knocking noise and shaking at start up. It disappears after up to 5 minutes. The mechanic said he only changed the parts. That's it. Nothing else done. When I was there doing the work I say him using the chain. I left the shop as I could not wait till the work was done.
Someone told me that the clearance of the valve has to be checked and adjusted. Mechanics say that it is not possible as my engine is W117 and there is nothing to adjust. It will do it automatically. I took the car back as clearly that mechanic could not do anything else then for the car. He also does not want the car back. He hung up when we tried to ask him to check the car again (like checking the timing chain). Well. In between I asked another shop to check it. They replaced only 3 rockers again. They were new!!! There was a slight damage on them. I guess this is the part of the rockers where you put the screwdriver on. That is why it was a bit "damaged".This second mechanic said I should just drive the car as the problem will be less in ... dont know when. Hundred of miles, days, weeks?
I am not satisfied with this situation and therefore I am here to ask what the problem might be. This wasnt there before the camshaft was changed!I cannot really make the mechanic do what I am asking for. I am now in an asian country and they do what they wanna do. I am only there to pay high prices and nothing is done what I wanted. With this mechanic I am trying to get him to check the timing chain (chain tension) and plastic guide rails? Could this cause the problem or also something else?I wanna know what it might be so that I can tell mechanic when he picks up the car.
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I've got a '99 Mercedes E320 and the lights have been getting brighter and dimmer depending on the RPM of the engine. For example, while in park and idle the interior lights will seem a little dim, but then if you rev the engine or start driving it will get a bit brighter.
This started suddenly last week, but I've never had any problems starting it. The water level in the battery was a little low, but I added distilled water and it's not improved.
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Driving on a trip, the check engine light comes on. The oil pressure is normal and the temp gauge is normal, the gas cap is properly sealed, is it ok to continue driving 2 to 3 hundred miles...
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I've got a 1994 Mercedes C220 which recently has been losing power going uphill. This is a random occurrence but starting to happen more frequently. When going up a hill the car engine starts to "miss" and the engine sounds like its fluttering. It is definitely losing power.When I get to the top of the hill; if I turn the engine off and restart it all goes back to normal and runs properly.what is it??
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This 92 MB E300 has been sitting around for the better part of the last two years for various reasons (have another car with better mileage, don't drive much anyways, no insurance on it, etc), and we've been trying to get it going again with some mixed luck. I just replaced one of the window regulators (cable busted) and the battery (alarm drained it dry), but now we're having trouble starting it. It doesn't happen every time, but when we try to start it, the starter motor seems to get going no problem and it turns pretty good, but it just won't catch consistently. Its almost like there's no fuel in there, or maybe no sparks or something? Sometimes it will catch for a second, but it takes a while. Usually, once it's going its good, but if we have to stop and wait at a red light, it will sometimes just die when shifting to drive (I usually put it in neutral and give some gas while waiting). Also sometimes just when it's in a low gear and shifts up it will die too. Then, we have trouble starting it up again!
So what's going on, do you think? I was thinking maybe something along the lines of the fuel pump, spark plug, or injectors, but what do I know? (not much).
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I have a beautiful 1987 560SL. My husband and I bought it about 17 years ago and lovingly refer to her as our mid-life crisis car. Truth be told, we're a bit past "mid" life now and have decided to sell it and let someone else enjoy her. Last summer she started to have an annoying issue and we "thought" it was fixed, but right after I started advertising, she started acting up again.The engine simply dies while driving. It always seems to happen when I've only driven about 5 miles and going rather slow - 20 to 30 mph. She'll start back up after a try or 2 and be fine. We took her to a local shop and the mechanic said one fuel pump was shot and the other was not working properly so we replaced both and all seemed fine the rest of the summer. We garage her for the winter as we live in the Rockies and she's not the most practical car to be driving in the snow and ice. This summer she started right up and was doing well until a few weeks ago - same problem.
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Car info:1997 Mercedes E420, ~186,000 miles Check engine electronics light always on because of unrelated evaporation censor issue. Having issues with my car, and my mechanic is a little stumped.
Story: Maybe in the last week or two, noticed the faintest flutter of the engine when stopped at red lights. Was faint, seemed like no big deal. This last Friday, had been driving 45mph for 3-5 minutes (cool day). Stopped at red light, engine freaks. Got intermittent revving and lurching of whole car. "Acc.skid control" warning light comes off. I pull over in a fast food parking lot, turn car off, calm down cuz I was freaked out by aggressive lurching. Pulled over maybe 20 minutes. I decide to drive to my mechanic who happened to be nearby. Turn car on, and it stalls four times, in the time it took me to back out of the parking space I was in and get to the driveway.
Where things get interesting:Mechanic replaced "failing mass air intake sensor". Car seems 95% fixed...I go to pick t up today, and the same issue seems to be happening, but way less dramatic. Did a ride-along to show mechanic the issue (because they couldn't replicate it), and he said: Seems like the engine doesn't know what level to idle at, and hesitates to shift gears. Issues appear more when driving slow. This has only been an issue since Friday. Never noticed ANY other signs of transmission issues. He says he's not sure what to do, and will try checking the transmission fluid and clean the throttle body.
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OK, so this is a 2012 ML350 Blue-tech with around 31,000 miles on it. Lately when it is warm (either by driving for 30 minutes or more, or by outside temperature of 80 plus), it has been making the strangest front end groaning noise when coming to a stop and when pulling away. It sounds like the front end suspension is "groaning". It doesn't have to be a hard stop, gentle will do just fine. The car comes to a halt, the front end dips slightly - "groooaaan" (perhaps more on the rebound than the initial dip). You start up again, the front end unloads, and "groan".
Very disconcerting on a car as smart as this. Tom and Ray know this car - this is the one with the "smart radio" (switches channels at voice command…) The dealer is stumped. They have the car for the third time now and even though both a mechanic and the shop foreman have been shown the problem (taken for a test drive ), they have been unable to come up with either a diagnosis or a fix. They replaced the front sway bar links once to no avail.
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2000 ML430 230,000 mi. The engine starts and all is fine until I hit a spot of rough pavement or a minor bump and the engine "stumbles," feels like it has cut out or starving for fuel. I have been unable to tell whether it is left front or rear right tire or corner of the car that hits the bump and starts the engine running on limp home.Once it happens and I stop at a light then hit the gas, I can count to 4 before the engine responds, making left turns dangerous. MB factory service since new. The dealer has replaced spark plug wires, spark plugs, crankcase sensor, gas pedal sensor and still the same problem. I think it is a loose wire or ground since it only happens after I go over a bump(even a seam on concrete any jiggle does it).
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I filled up my car at the local gas station. It had been raining non-stop for the past three days and nights. 10-15 minutes later as I'm stopped at a light, the car starts shuddering, almost stalls a few times. Rough idle all the way home.
I limp home, guessing water in the fuel. Next day I go to Advance Auto and buy some fuel additives which are supposed to solve the water problem. The guy there mentions that he's had a number of reports of similar issues from this particular gas station (it's now out of business, go figure). Additives make things better but not fully.
2 tanks of gas later now and the rough idle is much better but not gone. Car seems to have less power and sounds a little bit raspy on acceleration (not noticeable unless driving near a wall which can bounce the sound back). My guess is that one of the cylinders is not firing, maybe needs a new spark plug?
The more worrisome thing is that as the car has started running more smoothly I've also noticed a smell of gas after startup (may still be there when running but I don't notice it then) -- coming from the exhaust. This seems to be in-line with the missing cylinder theory but I'm running blind here as I don't have much experience on this topic.
The car's a 1997 C280. 130K on it. It's old but mechanically the thing has been a tank so far (Inline 6 I think) -- very sturdy and responsive. I'm hoping that this whole ordeal hasn't done permanent damage.
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I have a 2001 Mercedes E class, 4Matic. Over the last 7 years the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System)/EPS (Electronic Stability Program)/BAS (Braking Assist Program) warning light comes on and when I stop the car and start again, the light goes away. When this light comes on, only thing I noticed is the cruise control does not work, otherwise, no other problem. I took it to the service station one time, but that light did not come on and they did not do anything.The car has 105,000 miles. Now, when the light comes on it stays on longer and sometimes, I have turn the car on and off several times before light will go away.I am afraid to take it to the Mercedes dealer, as they might find a problem when no problem is there. Whether this is just glitch in the software or there is a real problem.
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I have a 1989 Mercedes 300F, automatic transmission, with 175,000 miles (give or take). It runs great, starts well, we have no problem driving it 30 miles back and forth on back roads up to 60 mph. The problem seems to be when driving 40 miles at 75 mph. At that point, it will start to run rough, and then will not go over 40 mph without whining. The first time this happened, I had a leak in the transmission fixed and fluid put in. The second time, I had the fluid and filter changed, a new alternator, and a complete tune up. For a month after that we drove it for miles but not on the highway, with no problem. I thought I would chance it on a longer trip, got 40 miles down the highway at 75 mph when suddenly it started acting up and had to call a tow truck. When the tow truck arrived, we did not see any fluid under the car. It's been sitting in the driveway and now there are fluid leaks (appears to be oil). So, does it sound like something in the transmission, or maybe a bad alternator?
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While on way to parts store car started acting like it was running out of gas. A half block from gas station it quit . I walked to station got gas put in the tank the engine would crank but would not start. I got towed home and still will not start. It will crank but that's it. 3.0 L inline 6 300 E ...
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