1999MB 320 Automatic trans .... Stopped at a light went to start heard a loud bang car became motionless? Trans has 60k and never a shifting issue.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 Mercedes ML. In the past few weeks, there is quite a loud metallic knock when I start driving. It does not happen if I take off real slowly. What could be the cause?
View 7 RepliesMy 2003 E320 (131K miles) had been intermittingly flashing a red "Battery/Alternator Stop Vehicle" light and annoying alarm sound as well as a "Malfunction Electrical Consumers Turned Off" sign. Then three days ago the "check engine" light came on; went away the next day. Then yesterday the engine completely shut down on me.
The car started the today; took it to mechanic who says it could be alternator or wiring problem. Suggested I take it to MB dealer to get diagnosis before shelling out 800 bucks on an unnecessary car part. My question: should i take it to MB dealer or just replace the part? (I am not original owner; don't know if alternator's ever been replaced).
I have my second 1999 as class Mercedes and both have the same problem. The door assist system stop working on the passenger door in the trunk. The only way to get it working again is to remove the fuse associated with that system and reseat it.
View 1 RepliesMercedes Benz C240 ... Every time I come to a stop, the car seems to be gasping for breath and attempt to want to stall. Occasionally the battery/alternator light comes up. It has not stalled yet and seems to catch its breath and continues once I step on the gas after the shake and after there was an air rush through the vents (I called-Caching its breath). I took it in to the dealer and the electrical was checked and they found nothing.
View 6 RepliesOK, so this is a 2012 ML350 Blue-tech with around 31,000 miles on it. Lately when it is warm (either by driving for 30 minutes or more, or by outside temperature of 80 plus), it has been making the strangest front end groaning noise when coming to a stop and when pulling away. It sounds like the front end suspension is "groaning". It doesn't have to be a hard stop, gentle will do just fine. The car comes to a halt, the front end dips slightly - "groooaaan" (perhaps more on the rebound than the initial dip). You start up again, the front end unloads, and "groan".
Very disconcerting on a car as smart as this. Tom and Ray know this car - this is the one with the "smart radio" (switches channels at voice command…) The dealer is stumped. They have the car for the third time now and even though both a mechanic and the shop foreman have been shown the problem (taken for a test drive ), they have been unable to come up with either a diagnosis or a fix. They replaced the front sway bar links once to no avail.
While on way to parts store car started acting like it was running out of gas. A half block from gas station it quit . I walked to station got gas put in the tank the engine would crank but would not start. I got towed home and still will not start. It will crank but that's it. 3.0 L inline 6 300 E ...
View 5 RepliesThe check engine light is on. Yesterday twice I had the situation where when I turned the key to start. The starter motor was crankin and it was not firing. I pumped the throttle a few times to let air/gas into engine. I also opened the gasoline tank cover (where you insert the nozzle to pump gas) for a few mins and then shut it and started the car. It started. After running for 20 mins it happened again. The starter motor has to crank for some 10 seconds before it fires. Then no issues. What do you think it is??? Battery is fine, starter motor is fine since its cranking away. I am suspecting fuel pump ?
View 19 RepliesCar starts intermittently, have heard this is common on Mercedes Benz cars, whats the fix? I do my own maintenance on my cars have tools ect.
View 9 RepliesA few months ago I bought a used 2007 Mercedes C280. Overall, I've been very happy with the car. The first month or so was heavy on longer highway driving, and it seemed to be getting decent gas mileage. The last couple of months have been mostly short range city driving, and the mileage seems significantly less. I wonder about the idle speed, on the assumption that it may be wasting a lot of gas sitting at stop lights and in traffic. The tachometer reading isn't always consistent at idle, but fairly often it's up close to 9,000 rpm. What should I be seeing, and does this need attention?
View 6 RepliesYesterday my 1996 Mercedes C220 would not start. It cranked like crazy but would not fire. Some things I suspect contributed: The gas tank was below 1/4 full. It was cold ... about 25F. The night before I had put 140 lb. of sand in the trunk just before driving it about 15 miles home and parking it. My theory was that because of the weight of the sand and the low gas level, gas was not able to get to the fuel pump.
So this morning I was going to put in a couple gallons of gas from my garage gas can. When I opened the gas cap there was a serious whoosh of air into the tank; there had been a substantial vacuum inside the tank. I put the cap back on, without adding any gas (the sand was still in the trunk), and the car started right up. Here's my question(s):
1) Did the sand contribute in any way to the problem?;
2) Did the low gas level contribute?;
3) Did the cold weather contribute?;
4) Do I have a mechanical problem I need to take care of?
My father is gifting me his 1991 Mercedes-Benz 300E 4matic, but it won't start. He's taken it to a specialist locally and to the dealership and they cannot find one thing wrong with it to explain why, or fix it, but every time he gets it home it won't start.
View 19 RepliesMy mom just picked up a 2003 CLK 430. I drove it around for a bit and noticed that a few things didn't seem quite right
The transmission seems to start out in 2nd gear rather than first even when the transmission is not in "winter" mode. The transmission is also very hesitant to downshift, and often times will not downshift at all if the car is moving.
There's a noticeable amount of lag time between when you stand on the gas and when car actually starts accelerating.The engine doesn't seem to rev very quickly or freely, and there is some noticeable pinging when the engine is under load. Performance was very tepid for a 275 HP car.
The spark plugs and ignition wires were replaced last week. The car has 105k miles on it. I know the previous owner used regular unleaded, and the owners specifically states that 91 octane should be used and goes as far as to mention precautions that should be taken should regular unleaded. The car was filled up with 93 octane fuel earlier today.
Just 15 minutes ago, I took my stepdad out in the car to demonstrate my findings. On the first drive (about 5-10 minutes) the car acted like it did when I had driven it earlier in the day (not downshifting, hesitating, lack of power, etc.), and the check engine light came on. He wanted to drive the car to see for himself. So we pulled over, shut off the engine and switched seats. He got behind the wheel, started the car, the check engine light is still on. But the car ran perfectly. It was starting out from 1st gear and would downshift promptly when give full throttle. Performance was immensely improved. The check engine light is still on though. The car has a 1 year bumper to bumper warranty. So I guess they can bring it in to have it looked at.
I'm just sort of at a loss as to why the car performed so poorly when I drove it, and all of a sudden performed correctly, after the engine was restarted.
I got a Mercedes Benz, SL560, US style, 8 cylinders, from 1987, mileage around 130 000I got the camshafts, rockers, and valve changed these days as the lifters were a little worn out as I was told. So I decided to do it now than later. But since the mechanic changed them I get a bad knocking noise and shaking at start up. It disappears after up to 5 minutes. The mechanic said he only changed the parts. That's it. Nothing else done. When I was there doing the work I say him using the chain. I left the shop as I could not wait till the work was done.
Someone told me that the clearance of the valve has to be checked and adjusted. Mechanics say that it is not possible as my engine is W117 and there is nothing to adjust. It will do it automatically. I took the car back as clearly that mechanic could not do anything else then for the car. He also does not want the car back. He hung up when we tried to ask him to check the car again (like checking the timing chain). Well. In between I asked another shop to check it. They replaced only 3 rockers again. They were new!!! There was a slight damage on them. I guess this is the part of the rockers where you put the screwdriver on. That is why it was a bit "damaged".This second mechanic said I should just drive the car as the problem will be less in ... dont know when. Hundred of miles, days, weeks?
I am not satisfied with this situation and therefore I am here to ask what the problem might be. This wasnt there before the camshaft was changed!I cannot really make the mechanic do what I am asking for. I am now in an asian country and they do what they wanna do. I am only there to pay high prices and nothing is done what I wanted. With this mechanic I am trying to get him to check the timing chain (chain tension) and plastic guide rails? Could this cause the problem or also something else?I wanna know what it might be so that I can tell mechanic when he picks up the car.
when the temperature is above roughly 60 degrees, I can drive the car for a short while, even a few miles, and it will start to sputter and eventually stall. At that point the car won't start, it turns over fine, but sounds like it's not getting any gas. If I wait 15-20 minutes it starts fine and will repeat the same process. Is there some temperature sensor or something that prevents the engine from starting after it gets hot, or is it something else. The temperature gauge doesn't indicate the engine is hotter than normal. I've taken it to my car shop twice and they haven't found anything. 1991 mercedes e300...
View 3 RepliesMy 96 mercedes c280 will not start in the winter. I moved from florida to ohio and when it gets close to freezing or below my car will not start. The lights on rear view mirror (immobilizer lights) blink for 30 sec. I have to wait any where from 5-30 min. to start car depending on how cold it is, otherwise car runs great.
View 2 RepliesMy 2002 Mercedes E320 has on 2 occasions not started. When you turn the key it acts like it wants to start but it does not. I then wait about 15min and the thing will then start. what is going on?
View 3 RepliesMy 1999 Mercedes ML 320 with 180K started ticking when my wife turned the temperature control from cold to hot last week. Before this, it ran fine with a fairly new a/c installed - ~1 year ago. It was a cool morning. I started the car and she turned the control from blue to red. The ticking sound started immediately and only cooler air came out.
The a/c also does not blow cool air anymore either. The ticking is constant and low when the controller is in the blue and louder and faster when the control is turned to red. What happened, what the problem may be, and repair options? I haven't taken it in to my mechanic yet and would like to get some preliminary thoughts.
Driving on a trip, the check engine light comes on. The oil pressure is normal and the temp gauge is normal, the gas cap is properly sealed, is it ok to continue driving 2 to 3 hundred miles...
View 1 RepliesI have a 1996 Mercedes C220 with 60K miles on it. It runs great, but is giving me fits with inconsistent, intermittent, and (I’m pretty sure) incorrect warning lights, as well as intermittent gas gauge failures.
Soon after I bought the car about six months ago, the oil pressure warning light began to come on intermittently. Each time it came on, I checked the oil level and found it to be full.
At first it would come on, sometimes for just an instant, sometimes for several miles, but then go off and stay off for days or weeks. … Then it got weird … Each day as I was driving to work, the oil pressure light would go on - always within about 100 yards of the exact same place - about 10 miles and 15 minutes from home. It would stay on for 1/4 to 1/2 mile, then go off and stay off until the next day, when it would do the same thing again. I was still checking the oil level every day and finding it to be full; I have never added oil except when I changed it.
About two months ago I changed the oil and the filter. I put in Mobil 1 0W-40. Immediately after I did that, the oil light came on and has stayed on almost permanently. I say “almost” permanently because if I get to highway speed and then accelerate quickly, getting the RPM’s up to about 4500, the light will go off, sometimes for just a few seconds, sometimes for a minute or two, but will always come back on after I slow down.
Weirder still, immediately after I changed the oil, the coolant level warning light came on and has stayed on permanently. I have checked the coolant level every day since then; it has been full every time, has never gone down, and has never needed coolant added.
Here’s another issue that may be related. The gas gauge intermittently drops to empty, even when I know for sure the tank is not empty. Sometimes it shows the correct fuel level, sometimes it shows empty. Sometimes it will bounce back and forth between the two several times within my 1/2 hour drive to and from work. It does this with no pattern I can discern. It has been doing this as long as I have owned the car.
I have hooked up my Actron OBDII code reader to the car several times. It never shows any outstanding codes, any pending codes, or any other problems.
Although these issues worry me a bit, I have been willing to live with them, assuming there’s really nothing wrong with the car. But now I’d like to sell it - for reasons completely unrelated to the warning lights - and I’m pretty sure no sensible person would buy it if they test drove it and saw the warning lights. (And I think most people would notice if I covered them up with electrical tape!)
Last Saturday I was driving my 1999 Mercedes ML320 SUV (163,000 miles) on a highway in California (for about 70 miles) when suddenly I saw a huge cloud of smoke behind me but I didn’t hear any noise and didn’t notice any change in the car driving. I was not sure if it was my car or somebody else car. On Sunday I was driving on a city street and suddenly I saw the same smoke but not of that extent but with a rattle from the back side of the car. I quickly stopped on a side street and saw whitish/bluish smoke from the tailpipe. In a couple of minutes, the smoke disappeared and I drove the car back home. No more smoke since then. I checked the code and it showed P0700 (is there for a couple of months) and P0442 (new code). I called a couple of mechanics and one checked the car but none knows what caused the smoke. The mechanic said that P0442 is not the cause of the smoke. The engine oil is still good and to the max. A mechanic recently replaced the EGR valve. Can I drive the car or I might do more damage?
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