Mercedes-benz - C-class :: C240 - High Pitched Whine And Would Not Accelerate More Than 15 Miles Per Hour
Jul 11, 2012
3 months ago, my 2003 C240 Mercedes made a high pitched whine and would not accelerate more than 15 miles per hour and if I did go faster the whine got louder and higher in pitch. I took it to the local “foreign car” auto shop (I have had the car serviced there in the past) and they replaced what I believe that said was a “contact plate” something that controls the transmission is what I think I remember. Yesterday (just 3 months later) the exact same issue is occurring. Again I had it towed back to the auto shop and now they tell me the transmission is shot and they will need to replace it. They added it has nothing to do with the plate they replaced/installed 3month ago and they will give me a credit on the plate that installed 3 months ago. Are they correct?
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Mercedes Benz C240 ... Every time I come to a stop, the car seems to be gasping for breath and attempt to want to stall. Occasionally the battery/alternator light comes up. It has not stalled yet and seems to catch its breath and continues once I step on the gas after the shake and after there was an air rush through the vents (I called-Caching its breath). I took it in to the dealer and the electrical was checked and they found nothing.
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I have a beautiful 1987 560SL. My husband and I bought it about 17 years ago and lovingly refer to her as our mid-life crisis car. Truth be told, we're a bit past "mid" life now and have decided to sell it and let someone else enjoy her. Last summer she started to have an annoying issue and we "thought" it was fixed, but right after I started advertising, she started acting up again.The engine simply dies while driving. It always seems to happen when I've only driven about 5 miles and going rather slow - 20 to 30 mph. She'll start back up after a try or 2 and be fine. We took her to a local shop and the mechanic said one fuel pump was shot and the other was not working properly so we replaced both and all seemed fine the rest of the summer. We garage her for the winter as we live in the Rockies and she's not the most practical car to be driving in the snow and ice. This summer she started right up and was doing well until a few weeks ago - same problem.
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Last summer my air conditioner (cooling) stopped working. However the heat has remained on and is very high, even though it is not turned on. How can I turn the heat off?
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I have about 25K miles on tires that are expected to last for 60K miles. The tred is fine. But I have experienced occasional serious shaking of the car when going at high speeds. Not every time. And it has only happened when I am alone in the car (of course did not happen with mechanic in the car). My mechanic says I need an alignment and new tires, claiming that by being out of alignment the tires are ruined. Says it is heat and road conditions that cause the effect and there is steel belt damage within at least one of the tires. Curiously, the car does not do the classic out-of-alignment thing of pulling to one side. Not at all. Is it an alignment and tire issue or something else? The car has 175,000 miles on it and otherwise run great!
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I have a 2001 Mercedes E class, 4Matic. Over the last 7 years the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System)/EPS (Electronic Stability Program)/BAS (Braking Assist Program) warning light comes on and when I stop the car and start again, the light goes away. When this light comes on, only thing I noticed is the cruise control does not work, otherwise, no other problem. I took it to the service station one time, but that light did not come on and they did not do anything.The car has 105,000 miles. Now, when the light comes on it stays on longer and sometimes, I have turn the car on and off several times before light will go away.I am afraid to take it to the Mercedes dealer, as they might find a problem when no problem is there. Whether this is just glitch in the software or there is a real problem.
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I have a 1989 Mercedes 300F, automatic transmission, with 175,000 miles (give or take). It runs great, starts well, we have no problem driving it 30 miles back and forth on back roads up to 60 mph. The problem seems to be when driving 40 miles at 75 mph. At that point, it will start to run rough, and then will not go over 40 mph without whining. The first time this happened, I had a leak in the transmission fixed and fluid put in. The second time, I had the fluid and filter changed, a new alternator, and a complete tune up. For a month after that we drove it for miles but not on the highway, with no problem. I thought I would chance it on a longer trip, got 40 miles down the highway at 75 mph when suddenly it started acting up and had to call a tow truck. When the tow truck arrived, we did not see any fluid under the car. It's been sitting in the driveway and now there are fluid leaks (appears to be oil). So, does it sound like something in the transmission, or maybe a bad alternator?
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While on way to parts store car started acting like it was running out of gas. A half block from gas station it quit . I walked to station got gas put in the tank the engine would crank but would not start. I got towed home and still will not start. It will crank but that's it. 3.0 L inline 6 300 E ...
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The check engine light is on. Yesterday twice I had the situation where when I turned the key to start. The starter motor was crankin and it was not firing. I pumped the throttle a few times to let air/gas into engine. I also opened the gasoline tank cover (where you insert the nozzle to pump gas) for a few mins and then shut it and started the car. It started. After running for 20 mins it happened again. The starter motor has to crank for some 10 seconds before it fires. Then no issues. What do you think it is??? Battery is fine, starter motor is fine since its cranking away. I am suspecting fuel pump ?
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I have a 91 Mercedes with 153,000 miles thats terrific but the mystery leak in the hydraulic running the rear suspension is driving me nuts. Especially when the hydraulics call for factory spec fluid.
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I have a '05 Mercedes CLK320 convertible that I purchased 3 years ago with about 29,000 miles on it. Two years ago the hydraulic lines in the top blew and I spent about $3,000 to have it repaired. Today, the lines blew again. What I'm trying to find out is: - Is this common in this car? Or in any convertible?- Did I just get a lemon?- If this isn't a common problem, should the dealer that repaired the hydraulics 2 years ago fix them again for free?
It only has 70,000 miles on it now and I was under the impression that I could drive a Mercedes for a couple hundred thousand miles without a too much mechanical problem. But if this is going to be an ongoing issue, I'm going to get rid of the car, even though I absolutely love it. It's ruby red, of course!
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My brakes squeak from time to time, particularly backing up, but also braking forward. My mechanic said I have plenty of brake pad and nothing is being damaged. He said he has often seen the "squeaky brakes" problem in Mercedes and it is often difficult to pinpoint which wheel (or wheels) would be the cause of the squeaking (sound like metal on metal). Why this is happening?
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My 1994 mercedes C220 stalls at idle. the local mercedes dealer told me that it is caused by the alternator overcharging. can this be true??
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Car starts intermittently, have heard this is common on Mercedes Benz cars, whats the fix? I do my own maintenance on my cars have tools ect.
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I own a used 2004 Mercedes C320 4Matic. I bought it with 57k miles. I drive it about 150 miles per week. The reseller told me i needed engine mount replacements at 67k. The car did have a vibration, which I was sort of ignoring, so I had the work done. Now, the vibration persists.
It is most noticable in the morning upon start-up, at an idle. But it is also noticable when the car is warm and I am stopped at a light. It can also be noticed as a subtle vibration in the steering wheel at highway speed.
I am very sure it is not wheel balance or rotors (hey, I can feel it at a stop). I brought it back to the dealer, who said after 5 hours of diagnosis, they could findind nothing wrong.
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Last week I noticed that my engine (2006 ML350 33,000 miles )was not sounding as it normally does. I called my foreign car repair shop that normally maintains my car but could not get an appointment for several days.
My husband thought that it was possibly a bad bearing in one of the belt pulleys near power steering pump. The noise was getting louder so my shop looked at it sooner and determined I needed a power steering pump, reservoir, gasket, fluid,accessory belt tensioner and belt.
I had no choice but to get the repair.When I picked up my car it still didn't sound right. I was told it would take a little time to break in. Well all week my car was making a lot of different sounds until it got so loud I wouldn't drive it. I took it in today and got the call that it needed what I think was called a/c tensioner pulley. I just want to know if this seems possible. (Car drove fine and no problems with steering before first repair).
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I have a 1996 Mercedes C280. The outside ambient air sensor has gone bad and now reads about 30 degrees F high. There are two types of sensors for this model and year. One is a plug-in sensor that looks like a small pointy cone. The other is a long cable with a metal cylinder at the end that looks like an old-style stereo headphones jack (the thick kind). I have this second type.
I would like to know whether, instead of replacing the whole wire and sensor combination, which involves taking out the instrument cluster and rerunning the wire, I can simply cut off the wire at the sensor end and solder in a new sensor (cut off from a new part).
I am wondering whether it would be possible to just cut the existing cable near the sensor end and then solder in one of the pointy cones. There is a youtube video that shows replacement of a similar type of pointy cone sensor on a BMW, and it looks like the assembly that accepts the sensor is the same, so if I couldn't find a Mercedes plug-in receiver assembly for my old car, I could maybe use the BMW one and then plug in the Mercedes sensor. That would let me do another plug-in later without resoldering.
Since this sensor has gone bad once before, I have to think that a replacement won't last more than five years or so.
I am not sure whether the outside temperature has an effect on other aspects of the car, such as injection mix. I presume it has to go through the on-board computer, because it must be the signal for the little snowflake that appears on the dash when the outside temperature drops to freezing at the road level. Whether leaving the sensor alone and just living with a high reading will cause problems? Right now when the outside temp is around 70 degrees F the sensor reads about 105 degrees F.
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I just had my 2003 Honda Accord Ex in the shop. I was without my car for a week. I broke down on the highway and had to have it towed, not once but twice. I took it to a reputable Honda/Acura repair shop. It turns out the ECU was corroded and the A/C drain was plugged up. I was not aware of the design of the Honda in this area, however, with the A/C unit being above the ECU in makes it easy to destroy the ECU if there is any problem with the A/C. Seems to me that Honda might have wanted to recall this to put plastic between the 2 to prevent the corrosion of the ECU or something, however, no such luck. The mechanic pointed out that the carpet on the passenger side was damp and to check it. Who would a thunk?
I got the car back yesterday. After running the diagnostic equipment they had to replace the ECU and ignition responders, put plastic between it and the A/C unit, replace the spark plugs (apparently the wrong ones were installed), and #4 coil, have the keys reprogrammed, replace the A/C filter and clean the A/C drain. Now here is the rub..I got it back and drove down the block. There was a high pitched whine or whistle sound that occurred when I accelerated. And the same sound when I took my foot off the petal as it was slowing down.
I immediately drove back to the shop and the mechanic and I took a drive. He had heard it also before I got it back. He mentioned it might be the transmission and that if it needs replacing. The car has 170,000 miles on it and it the past 2 months I have had new tires. He suggested I drive it over the long weekend (Labor Day) then make an appt to bring it in next week to have the transmission checked. So here is my concern, if it is the transmission will I do more damage by driving it? Will it get worse quickly and break down thereby leaving me stranded again? What is the best thing to do?
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My 2001 Mercedes CLK320 has ~150k on it. The maintenance etc. has been kept up to date. A few months ago the car engine started to run noisily and began to vibrate. It's worse when it's cold out or if the car is at stopped but not in park (like when you're at a stop light or drive thru). The vibration and noisy engine running lessen considerable after the car runs for a while and if the car is in the park. I already had a tune up by the MB dealer about 9 months ago. Diagnosis? Also, I'm obviously at that point where the dealer service shop no longer makes sense. I'm going to drive this car (hopefully) beyond 200k, however, it would be nice to get rid of this problem. Otherwise, the car really is almost as good as new!
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I have a 2001 Mercedes C320 and this has happened to me twice within the last two months. While driving, all of a sudden the lights on dash go out, including speedometer, odometer, gas gauge looks to be empty, heater/A/C off - the engine still running & the radio still working. I don't know about the headlights because it was during the day & I didn't think to check. Both times it was after 5:00 or on the weekend and my mechanic was closed. Next day after starting the car everything worked again. What could cause this?
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1985 380 se runs great until engine warms and put under load. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pump relay and the gasoline...
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