Mercedes-benz - C-class :: 1994 - Stalling At Idle
Nov 1, 2011
My 1994 mercedes C220 stalls at idle. the local mercedes dealer told me that it is caused by the alternator overcharging. can this be true??
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Nov 1, 2011
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Stall - Mercedes-benz - E-class :: E320 Stalls At Idle When Cold
Car: 2000 Mercedes-Benz E320 (W210) 4matic
This car runs beautifully if the air temperature is above 60 degrees or so (maybe 65) Fahrenheit.
If the air temperature, however, is much cooler, and the engine has had enough time to cool to air temperature, it stalls. Here's the sequence:- Start the car. Car runs fine, sounds good. Initial idle speed about 1200-1500 RPM.- Wait for car to warm up for a few seconds so it settles into normal idle. Idle speed settles to about 800 RPM after 5-20 seconds, depending upon air temperature.- Shift car into gear (D or R - doesn't matter). Idle speed drops to 500 or so, then the car stalls.- Restart the car. Allow it to warm up significantly (how much depends upon air temperature). - Shift into gear (D or R). Engine idle speed drops a bit, then recovers to ~800 RPM. No problems after that.
If it's a little cool (55-60 degrees Fahrenheit), I can drive off once the engine temp gauge needle rises a few degrees (45-50 degrees Centigrade).If it's around freezing (20-40 degrees Fahrenheit), I can't drive off until the engine temp gauge reaches nearly 80 degrees Centigrade.
If I'm on a hill (pointing down), I can start at a slightly lower temperature by allowing the car to start rolling as soon as I shift into gear. In this case, there's less resistance, so the idle speed doesn't go low enough to stall the car. If I am on a level surface (or pointing uphill), 80 degrees Centigrade seems to be almost a magic number when the air temperature is below 40 Fahrenheit (near freezing). When the needle is showing about 78 degrees Centigrade, the car will still stall. When it reaches 80 degrees Centigrade, the car is fine, and will not even come close to stalling when put in gear.
ONE CONFUSING VARIABLE: When I took this to my mechanic, it didn't exhibit the problem for him. When I picked it up (about 30 Fahrenheit), it stalled. He came out and started it, put it into gear, and it idled without stalling. I got in and let him watch while I got in, started it, put it into gear, and it stalled. We have no explanation as to why this would be any different (we tried several times, varying techniques, brake pressure, etc., with the same confusing results).
Suspension - Mercedes-benz - S-class :: 1987 - Rough Idle And Stalls / RPMs Drop
Hot or cold car always starts,Idles perfect , then RPM drops, Idles rough and stalls. Econometer moves to Red area.car will easily restart and drives well,it also idles well. Once engine is shut down, even for a short while, It does the same thing again. Car is used for short trips. Ambient Temperature 80 degrees. Once running car is perfect at all speeds and idles smoothly. Hero 1987 MB 560 sel ....
View 19 RepliesGasoline - Mercedes-benz - C-class :: Rough Idle / Smell Of Gas In Exhaust / Less Power Than Normal
I filled up my car at the local gas station. It had been raining non-stop for the past three days and nights. 10-15 minutes later as I'm stopped at a light, the car starts shuddering, almost stalls a few times. Rough idle all the way home.
I limp home, guessing water in the fuel. Next day I go to Advance Auto and buy some fuel additives which are supposed to solve the water problem. The guy there mentions that he's had a number of reports of similar issues from this particular gas station (it's now out of business, go figure). Additives make things better but not fully.
2 tanks of gas later now and the rough idle is much better but not gone. Car seems to have less power and sounds a little bit raspy on acceleration (not noticeable unless driving near a wall which can bounce the sound back). My guess is that one of the cylinders is not firing, maybe needs a new spark plug?
The more worrisome thing is that as the car has started running more smoothly I've also noticed a smell of gas after startup (may still be there when running but I don't notice it then) -- coming from the exhaust. This seems to be in-line with the missing cylinder theory but I'm running blind here as I don't have much experience on this topic.
The car's a 1997 C280. 130K on it. It's old but mechanically the thing has been a tank so far (Inline 6 I think) -- very sturdy and responsive. I'm hoping that this whole ordeal hasn't done permanent damage.
Mercedes-benz - C-class - Fuel-economy :: Idle Speed / Wasting A Lot Of Gas Sitting At Stop Lights And In Traffic
A few months ago I bought a used 2007 Mercedes C280. Overall, I've been very happy with the car. The first month or so was heavy on longer highway driving, and it seemed to be getting decent gas mileage. The last couple of months have been mostly short range city driving, and the mileage seems significantly less. I wonder about the idle speed, on the assumption that it may be wasting a lot of gas sitting at stop lights and in traffic. The tachometer reading isn't always consistent at idle, but fairly often it's up close to 9,000 rpm. What should I be seeing, and does this need attention?
View 6 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: ABS / EPS And BAS Warning Lights Come On And Goes Away
I have a 2001 Mercedes E class, 4Matic. Over the last 7 years the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System)/EPS (Electronic Stability Program)/BAS (Braking Assist Program) warning light comes on and when I stop the car and start again, the light goes away. When this light comes on, only thing I noticed is the cruise control does not work, otherwise, no other problem. I took it to the service station one time, but that light did not come on and they did not do anything.The car has 105,000 miles. Now, when the light comes on it stays on longer and sometimes, I have turn the car on and off several times before light will go away.I am afraid to take it to the Mercedes dealer, as they might find a problem when no problem is there. Whether this is just glitch in the software or there is a real problem.
View 1 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: 1989 - Whines Over 40 MPH
I have a 1989 Mercedes 300F, automatic transmission, with 175,000 miles (give or take). It runs great, starts well, we have no problem driving it 30 miles back and forth on back roads up to 60 mph. The problem seems to be when driving 40 miles at 75 mph. At that point, it will start to run rough, and then will not go over 40 mph without whining. The first time this happened, I had a leak in the transmission fixed and fluid put in. The second time, I had the fluid and filter changed, a new alternator, and a complete tune up. For a month after that we drove it for miles but not on the highway, with no problem. I thought I would chance it on a longer trip, got 40 miles down the highway at 75 mph when suddenly it started acting up and had to call a tow truck. When the tow truck arrived, we did not see any fluid under the car. It's been sitting in the driveway and now there are fluid leaks (appears to be oil). So, does it sound like something in the transmission, or maybe a bad alternator?
View 9 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: Just Quit And Would Not Start
While on way to parts store car started acting like it was running out of gas. A half block from gas station it quit . I walked to station got gas put in the tank the engine would crank but would not start. I got towed home and still will not start. It will crank but that's it. 3.0 L inline 6 300 E ...
View 5 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: Difficult Start - CEL On?
The check engine light is on. Yesterday twice I had the situation where when I turned the key to start. The starter motor was crankin and it was not firing. I pumped the throttle a few times to let air/gas into engine. I also opened the gasoline tank cover (where you insert the nozzle to pump gas) for a few mins and then shut it and started the car. It started. After running for 20 mins it happened again. The starter motor has to crank for some 10 seconds before it fires. Then no issues. What do you think it is??? Battery is fine, starter motor is fine since its cranking away. I am suspecting fuel pump ?
View 19 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: Mystery Leak In The Hydraulic
I have a 91 Mercedes with 153,000 miles thats terrific but the mystery leak in the hydraulic running the rear suspension is driving me nuts. Especially when the hydraulics call for factory spec fluid.
View 3 RepliesMercedes-benz - Clk-class :: Hydraulic Lines Broke Again
I have a '05 Mercedes CLK320 convertible that I purchased 3 years ago with about 29,000 miles on it. Two years ago the hydraulic lines in the top blew and I spent about $3,000 to have it repaired. Today, the lines blew again. What I'm trying to find out is: - Is this common in this car? Or in any convertible?- Did I just get a lemon?- If this isn't a common problem, should the dealer that repaired the hydraulics 2 years ago fix them again for free?
It only has 70,000 miles on it now and I was under the impression that I could drive a Mercedes for a couple hundred thousand miles without a too much mechanical problem. But if this is going to be an ongoing issue, I'm going to get rid of the car, even though I absolutely love it. It's ruby red, of course!
Mercedes-benz - E-class :: Squeaky Brakes Particularly When Backing Up
My brakes squeak from time to time, particularly backing up, but also braking forward. My mechanic said I have plenty of brake pad and nothing is being damaged. He said he has often seen the "squeaky brakes" problem in Mercedes and it is often difficult to pinpoint which wheel (or wheels) would be the cause of the squeaking (sound like metal on metal). Why this is happening?
View 2 RepliesMercedes-benz - C-class :: 2002 - Intermittent Start Up
Car starts intermittently, have heard this is common on Mercedes Benz cars, whats the fix? I do my own maintenance on my cars have tools ect.
View 9 RepliesMercedes-benz - C-class :: 2004 - Vibration While Stopped?
I own a used 2004 Mercedes C320 4Matic. I bought it with 57k miles. I drive it about 150 miles per week. The reseller told me i needed engine mount replacements at 67k. The car did have a vibration, which I was sort of ignoring, so I had the work done. Now, the vibration persists.
It is most noticable in the morning upon start-up, at an idle. But it is also noticable when the car is warm and I am stopped at a light. It can also be noticed as a subtle vibration in the steering wheel at highway speed.
I am very sure it is not wheel balance or rotors (hey, I can feel it at a stop). I brought it back to the dealer, who said after 5 hours of diagnosis, they could findind nothing wrong.
Mercedes-benz - M-class :: 2006 - Noise Under The Hood
Last week I noticed that my engine (2006 ML350 33,000 miles )was not sounding as it normally does. I called my foreign car repair shop that normally maintains my car but could not get an appointment for several days.
My husband thought that it was possibly a bad bearing in one of the belt pulleys near power steering pump. The noise was getting louder so my shop looked at it sooner and determined I needed a power steering pump, reservoir, gasket, fluid,accessory belt tensioner and belt.
I had no choice but to get the repair.When I picked up my car it still didn't sound right. I was told it would take a little time to break in. Well all week my car was making a lot of different sounds until it got so loud I wouldn't drive it. I took it in today and got the call that it needed what I think was called a/c tensioner pulley. I just want to know if this seems possible. (Car drove fine and no problems with steering before first repair).
Mercedes-benz - C-class :: 1996 - Outside Ambient Air Sensor Gone Bad
I have a 1996 Mercedes C280. The outside ambient air sensor has gone bad and now reads about 30 degrees F high. There are two types of sensors for this model and year. One is a plug-in sensor that looks like a small pointy cone. The other is a long cable with a metal cylinder at the end that looks like an old-style stereo headphones jack (the thick kind). I have this second type.
I would like to know whether, instead of replacing the whole wire and sensor combination, which involves taking out the instrument cluster and rerunning the wire, I can simply cut off the wire at the sensor end and solder in a new sensor (cut off from a new part).
I am wondering whether it would be possible to just cut the existing cable near the sensor end and then solder in one of the pointy cones. There is a youtube video that shows replacement of a similar type of pointy cone sensor on a BMW, and it looks like the assembly that accepts the sensor is the same, so if I couldn't find a Mercedes plug-in receiver assembly for my old car, I could maybe use the BMW one and then plug in the Mercedes sensor. That would let me do another plug-in later without resoldering.
Since this sensor has gone bad once before, I have to think that a replacement won't last more than five years or so.
I am not sure whether the outside temperature has an effect on other aspects of the car, such as injection mix. I presume it has to go through the on-board computer, because it must be the signal for the little snowflake that appears on the dash when the outside temperature drops to freezing at the road level. Whether leaving the sensor alone and just living with a high reading will cause problems? Right now when the outside temp is around 70 degrees F the sensor reads about 105 degrees F.
Mercedes-benz - M-class :: Heat Remains Permanently On And Very High
Last summer my air conditioner (cooling) stopped working. However the heat has remained on and is very high, even though it is not turned on. How can I turn the heat off?
View 5 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: Occasional Serious Shaking When Going At High Speeds
I have about 25K miles on tires that are expected to last for 60K miles. The tred is fine. But I have experienced occasional serious shaking of the car when going at high speeds. Not every time. And it has only happened when I am alone in the car (of course did not happen with mechanic in the car). My mechanic says I need an alignment and new tires, claiming that by being out of alignment the tires are ruined. Says it is heat and road conditions that cause the effect and there is steel belt damage within at least one of the tires. Curiously, the car does not do the classic out-of-alignment thing of pulling to one side. Not at all. Is it an alignment and tire issue or something else? The car has 175,000 miles on it and otherwise run great!
View 6 RepliesMercedes-benz - Clk-class :: 2001 - Noise From The Engine / Vibration
My 2001 Mercedes CLK320 has ~150k on it. The maintenance etc. has been kept up to date. A few months ago the car engine started to run noisily and began to vibrate. It's worse when it's cold out or if the car is at stopped but not in park (like when you're at a stop light or drive thru). The vibration and noisy engine running lessen considerable after the car runs for a while and if the car is in the park. I already had a tune up by the MB dealer about 9 months ago. Diagnosis? Also, I'm obviously at that point where the dealer service shop no longer makes sense. I'm going to drive this car (hopefully) beyond 200k, however, it would be nice to get rid of this problem. Otherwise, the car really is almost as good as new!
View 7 RepliesMercedes-benz - C-class :: While Driving Suddenly Lights On Dash Go Out
I have a 2001 Mercedes C320 and this has happened to me twice within the last two months. While driving, all of a sudden the lights on dash go out, including speedometer, odometer, gas gauge looks to be empty, heater/A/C off - the engine still running & the radio still working. I don't know about the headlights because it was during the day & I didn't think to check. Both times it was after 5:00 or on the weekend and my mechanic was closed. Next day after starting the car everything worked again. What could cause this?
View 2 RepliesMercedes-benz - S-class :: 1985 SE Idles Great But Not Under Load
1985 380 se runs great until engine warms and put under load. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pump relay and the gasoline...
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