Mercedes-benz :: 1982 240D Skips When Accelerating Especially Going Up Into 3rd And 4th Gear
Dec 30, 2012
My 1982 240D Mercedes Benz skips especially when accelerating. While it doesn't do it all the time, when it does it really loses power and comes almost to a crawl (at least 10 mph decrease in speed) and is quite annoying for me and probably for the drivers behind me, what's going on. My guess is that the fuel injectors are clogged as they have never been changed since the car's creation. When idling it does not skip; only when engaging and shifting through the gears (this is a manual transmission) especially when going up into third gear and fourth.
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Have an '82 MB 300D. Started noticing a constant knocking noise from the rear anytime I got it over 35rpm on an incline. Subsided if I pulled over and let it sit for 20mins or so. Now knocking just comes up randomly when accelerating. Goes days without doing it. Eases up when I let off the accelerator. Sound just like engine knocking but at rear of vehicle.
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Recently I've noticed that when I take my car up to highway speeds- 55 MPH or higher- the engine feels as though it hesitates- I don't actually slow down, but I have trouble accelerating beyond where it starts to lag. It's like an imaginary bump my car is going over where the engine isn't fully accelerating. Happens for a second, then goes away, but lately it's happening often- several times in a row- it just feels laggy, sometimes continuously, and i've got a bad feeling about it.Tires and brakes are completely new (Nov 2011, calipers, rotors, and pads replaced), oil level is checked weekly and has been fine lately. ~200k miles. It's a manual/ 4spd, I don't know if this is clutch/ transmission slippage, or if I have a piston misfiring, OR if maybe it's a fuel injection problem,,,,
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. Is it likely that my 1982 Mercedes 240 emits killer fumes? The reason I ask is that the previous owner recently died of brain cancer, and my now adult children have both been afflicted by shall we say, brain related problems. Does this car emit lead like crazy? Or does the smell of burning diesel cause harm?
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Recently, a problem has developed with shifting gears in my 1984 Mercedes 300D. The shift feels too smooth as I move the gear shift knob from Park to Neutral and back. It doesn't catch when in Park. The car will still roll when in Park and the engine will not turn over. If I move the gear shift knob from Park to Neutral and back a few times and push the car a little, the engine will eventually turn over and crank. Sometimes it cranks in Park and sometimes in Neutral. Can you tell me what's causing this?
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My mom just picked up a 2003 CLK 430. I drove it around for a bit and noticed that a few things didn't seem quite right
The transmission seems to start out in 2nd gear rather than first even when the transmission is not in "winter" mode. The transmission is also very hesitant to downshift, and often times will not downshift at all if the car is moving.
There's a noticeable amount of lag time between when you stand on the gas and when car actually starts accelerating.The engine doesn't seem to rev very quickly or freely, and there is some noticeable pinging when the engine is under load. Performance was very tepid for a 275 HP car.
The spark plugs and ignition wires were replaced last week. The car has 105k miles on it. I know the previous owner used regular unleaded, and the owners specifically states that 91 octane should be used and goes as far as to mention precautions that should be taken should regular unleaded. The car was filled up with 93 octane fuel earlier today.
Just 15 minutes ago, I took my stepdad out in the car to demonstrate my findings. On the first drive (about 5-10 minutes) the car acted like it did when I had driven it earlier in the day (not downshifting, hesitating, lack of power, etc.), and the check engine light came on. He wanted to drive the car to see for himself. So we pulled over, shut off the engine and switched seats. He got behind the wheel, started the car, the check engine light is still on. But the car ran perfectly. It was starting out from 1st gear and would downshift promptly when give full throttle. Performance was immensely improved. The check engine light is still on though. The car has a 1 year bumper to bumper warranty. So I guess they can bring it in to have it looked at.
I'm just sort of at a loss as to why the car performed so poorly when I drove it, and all of a sudden performed correctly, after the engine was restarted.
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I am trying to convince my father into buying the VW Toureg. He has a Mercedes SUV, and he tells me that it is way too expensive for a VW. I like his SUV, but i own a VW Jetta GLI 1.8t. I love this car. My mom has a Merc. C230 Kompressor, and i guess thats the comparison to the Jetta, i hate her car.
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I have a 2001 Mercedes E class, 4Matic. Over the last 7 years the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System)/EPS (Electronic Stability Program)/BAS (Braking Assist Program) warning light comes on and when I stop the car and start again, the light goes away. When this light comes on, only thing I noticed is the cruise control does not work, otherwise, no other problem. I took it to the service station one time, but that light did not come on and they did not do anything.The car has 105,000 miles. Now, when the light comes on it stays on longer and sometimes, I have turn the car on and off several times before light will go away.I am afraid to take it to the Mercedes dealer, as they might find a problem when no problem is there. Whether this is just glitch in the software or there is a real problem.
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I have a 1989 Mercedes 300F, automatic transmission, with 175,000 miles (give or take). It runs great, starts well, we have no problem driving it 30 miles back and forth on back roads up to 60 mph. The problem seems to be when driving 40 miles at 75 mph. At that point, it will start to run rough, and then will not go over 40 mph without whining. The first time this happened, I had a leak in the transmission fixed and fluid put in. The second time, I had the fluid and filter changed, a new alternator, and a complete tune up. For a month after that we drove it for miles but not on the highway, with no problem. I thought I would chance it on a longer trip, got 40 miles down the highway at 75 mph when suddenly it started acting up and had to call a tow truck. When the tow truck arrived, we did not see any fluid under the car. It's been sitting in the driveway and now there are fluid leaks (appears to be oil). So, does it sound like something in the transmission, or maybe a bad alternator?
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While on way to parts store car started acting like it was running out of gas. A half block from gas station it quit . I walked to station got gas put in the tank the engine would crank but would not start. I got towed home and still will not start. It will crank but that's it. 3.0 L inline 6 300 E ...
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The check engine light is on. Yesterday twice I had the situation where when I turned the key to start. The starter motor was crankin and it was not firing. I pumped the throttle a few times to let air/gas into engine. I also opened the gasoline tank cover (where you insert the nozzle to pump gas) for a few mins and then shut it and started the car. It started. After running for 20 mins it happened again. The starter motor has to crank for some 10 seconds before it fires. Then no issues. What do you think it is??? Battery is fine, starter motor is fine since its cranking away. I am suspecting fuel pump ?
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I have a 91 Mercedes with 153,000 miles thats terrific but the mystery leak in the hydraulic running the rear suspension is driving me nuts. Especially when the hydraulics call for factory spec fluid.
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I have a '05 Mercedes CLK320 convertible that I purchased 3 years ago with about 29,000 miles on it. Two years ago the hydraulic lines in the top blew and I spent about $3,000 to have it repaired. Today, the lines blew again. What I'm trying to find out is: - Is this common in this car? Or in any convertible?- Did I just get a lemon?- If this isn't a common problem, should the dealer that repaired the hydraulics 2 years ago fix them again for free?
It only has 70,000 miles on it now and I was under the impression that I could drive a Mercedes for a couple hundred thousand miles without a too much mechanical problem. But if this is going to be an ongoing issue, I'm going to get rid of the car, even though I absolutely love it. It's ruby red, of course!
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My brakes squeak from time to time, particularly backing up, but also braking forward. My mechanic said I have plenty of brake pad and nothing is being damaged. He said he has often seen the "squeaky brakes" problem in Mercedes and it is often difficult to pinpoint which wheel (or wheels) would be the cause of the squeaking (sound like metal on metal). Why this is happening?
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My 1994 mercedes C220 stalls at idle. the local mercedes dealer told me that it is caused by the alternator overcharging. can this be true??
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I have this sprinter cargo van and i can't find the car battery, but i found a car battery inside the actual vehicle with a wire going towards the engine,...... It's a 2012 and the car starts up but its starting to hesitate when i try turning it on ..... and there is nothing hooked up to the negative side of the battery.... I'm wondering if this is safe, and if i ever need to jump start it, how would i do it?........ don't know if the negative side of the battery should have something hooked up to it or not .....
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My 95 sls started having problems with Its turn signal a while ago. The dash lights show that it is on and the turn signal reminder dings at me. The lights all function properly, however at random the hazard light and the left turn signal on the dash will light up and wont stop dinging at me until I signal left. It will continue to do this to me for a random amount of time and it getting really annoying. Why this is happening?
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I have a 89 Mercedes 190e. The car stays running and will drive but after so long starts acting like it's starving for fuel. I have spark and nothing wrong with fuel filter but when tested there was no pressure what's odd is the fuel pump was tested and it works fine all the lines have been cleared I'm stumped what else can I check...
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My 86 Mercedes 190e simply died and wouldn't restart. It does turn over, but my mechanic said it was getting no fire at all to the plugs.
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Car starts intermittently, have heard this is common on Mercedes Benz cars, whats the fix? I do my own maintenance on my cars have tools ect.
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I have a 1990 Mercedes 190E with kind of low miles for its age. Nice car, runs well. The problem is that the blower for the AC, heater, and defroster won't go on when it's cold or wet outside. Sometimes while I'm driving it will suddenly turn on. Sometimes if I restart the car it will go on; sometimes stays on, sometimes goes off after a bit. When it's dry and/or warm outside - no problem; on whenever I want, stays on, no problems. I have checked and replaced the fuses and I have had it at three different repair shops and they all insisted that it was the center console control that was causing the problem and now I have that whole unit replaced and it has not fixed the problem no matter what I tell the mechanic. I get it that it's an intermittent problem making it harder to identify ...
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