Mazda - Tribute :: O2 Sensors Causing Check Engine Light To Come On
Feb 9, 2011
I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 141,000 miles. Recently, I've burned up both O2 sensors causing the check engine light to come on. My mechanic has replaced each and they've burned out again. The head gasket was replaced after that, to no avail. The check engine light continues to come on after being cleared in the computer. I have also noticed that on humid days, the car misfires on at least one cylinder., but any other time, it seems fine. What to check next? My mechanic is at a loss.
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My Mazda tribute 2003 (manual) has developed a habit of 'pretending' to be overheated. If I do more than 2 or 3 stops as I run Saturday errands on a warm day - the care refuses to start and' continue' to run. I can start the car but have to rev the engine and restart at every stop sign and red light- If I pop the hood and wait about 40 minutes the car seems to 'cool' down and will run. The engine does not redline - water and coolant are fine - Is this just a faulty thermostat or is it some insidious vapor lock....
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I have a 2002 Mazda Tribute V6 with 151K. My check engine light has come off and on for quite a while now, mostly it would come on when it rained and then go off when the weather cleared. When it was on, the engine would sputter or misfire. I first had Auto Zone hook it up and they said it needed its plugs and wires changed. No problem. I took it in to a repair place and was informed that I don't have plugs and wires, but something with coils and that since it was impossible to determine which coil was bad, all would have to be replaced at a cost of $1500. I then took it to another repair place and they said the same thing. Now I have seen some discussions regarding this same thing and apparently some people have been able to identify a specific coil. At this point my check engine light is now on all the time and I'm really worried about doing terrible damage.
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The engine in my 2006 Mazda Tribute seems to have developed a knocking noise. I am not sure what causes it or how to determine where it is coming from.
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I have a Mazda Tribute with a manual transmission. About two years ago a sporadic issue started occurring. I would drive somewhere with no problems. Stop the car and park. Then when I would go to drive off the car would stall. It stalls and stalls and stalls. Start up the engine, it cuts out. Weird thing is that I can limp home. I give it gas and I back up. Then when I stop it stalls. I shift into 1st and drive, I can get up to highway speeds no problem, then drive (the most I have had to go is 45 miles) on the highway, but when I get off and get to a stop or a light, the car stalls. Start it up and keep this going all the way home.
Two hours later, get in the car... like NOTHING happened. I have brought it to my mechanic, the dealership and asked countless friends to no avail. They always say "bring the car to me when its doing that." The one time I had a shot at that, I got it to the dealer, and then it didn't stall. It stalled the whole way to the dealer, but not when I got there.
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When I am slowing to a stop, my engine idle gets really low (like 500rpm or less) and sometime stalls. At the same time, the oil light comes on. It does this all the time, and yes I've had my oil changed recently and actually I just checked it the other day and it was fine (along with all other fluids).
I've had the mechanic take a look at this three times and every time something gets fixed but this problem remains. They now say it's a ghost. It is not the air intake (I've had all of the hoses checked and a bad one replaced). It's not the electrical (I've had the spark plugs and cables replaced about a year and a half ago).
I've pretty much had everything that a car of a certain age needs done fixed/replaced in the past year or so, and I still can't figure out what could be causing this. A recent show had a similar problem, but the gal didn't mention the low idle/stalling. In that show they mentioned that she should have the oil pressure gauge checked or replaced, but would that cause the low idle/stalling? I don't know what to do and I'm very reluctant to go to a dealer.
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My 2005 Mazda Tribute has an ABS warning light that comes on as soon as I reach 40 mph. It will remain on after that no matter what speed I drive until I turn the car off. The braking system appears to function normally with normal breaking even if the light is on. With hard braking the ABS performs as it should too, rapidly oscillating the braking force. If I restart the car and keep the driving speed below 40 mph the ABS light never comes on. Otherwise, the car runs great. What is causing the ABS light to come on at 40 mph and how do I fix it?
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My 2003 Tribute has started squeaking. Seems to come from the main belt on the left side of the engine. Faint at idle, but gets somewhat louder as the rpms go up. What is the accepted protocol for dealing with this? How do I understand if the belt needs replacing, or if something is out of alignment? BTW, as best as I can see/feel it, the belt itself is in OK shape. Is there some kind of lube? (Though it's a smooth belt, so that might not be smart ...)
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We've owned this 2002 Mazda Tribute v6 for six years. Recently, the car has become somewhat dangerous to drive. While driving down the road at any speed, releasing the throttle does not result in the engine decelerating or returning to idle. Instead, it continues to hold the speed steady for 3-5 seconds before the RPMs drop. At lower speeds (~5mph or so) the car will even accelerate a bit, which can be a problem in tight parking situations. At higher speeds (e.g. on the freeway) releasing the throttle has no effect for a few seconds (ie it does not decelerate), which can be very surprising if you're responding to suddenly slowing traffic. The brakes can, of course, overpower the engine, but you do have to push harder to get the same braking effect as if you were not fighting against the engine. Releasing the throttle and shifting into neutral while driving causes the engine to rev quite high (3,000rpm) for the same 3-5 seconds before dropping to a steady idle, but it does allow you to brake normally. Shifting back into Drive while in motion but not touching the throttle causes the engine to decelerate the car normally. Touch the gas even briefly, though, and the engine will once again surge.
Oh, and turning the steering wheel from side to side, as you might do while parking, also causes the engine to surge, though not as much as it does when I touch the gas pedal. Also, I've disconnected the throttle and cruise control cables and worked the throttle plate by hand. Doing so causes the RPM to rise, as you expect, but it does not immediately return to idle when the throttle plate snaps shut. Instead, the RPMs stay around 12~1500 for 3-5 seconds before it drops to idle.
Over the years, I've replaced the throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, and other normal maintenance items. I used a meter to troubleshoot the IAC and TPS and used propane to look for vacuum leaks, but everything is within spec. There are recall notices related to unintended acceleration for these vehicles, but those are reportedly caused by interference between the engine cover and cruise control. I do my own maintenance and don't like engine covers, so I removed the cover from this car shortly after buying it; the engine cover cannot be causing this problem. I have disconnected the battery for an hour to reset the computer, but that has no effect. There are no trouble codes that show up on a OBD-II scanner, and the CEL is not illuminated. There are many internet reports of this problem, but thus far I've found none that indicate a solution.
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I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 150,000 miles that is meticulously maintained. This past winter (as far as winter goes in San Diego) the engine would run rough and the rpm's would drop close to stalling when stopping at a light for the first 2 or 3 miles. After that the engine has warmed and there is no problem. Could this be the intake gaskets needing replacement. This only happens on a cool or damp, rainly morning.
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I was recently in an accident deemed not my fault, my 250 was in perfect condition otherwise. After the accident when I received my car from the shop, they gave it back to me with the check engine light on and told me it was my O2 sensors. I ran a scan on them and the Bank 1 has low voltage, Bank 2 has high. What could be a cause of both of them to have voltage problems? The mechanics refused to believe the accident had anything to do with it, which is complete BS. I got hit on my passenger side, 11K in damage.
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2001 GL 1.5 Litre. Car occasionally hesitates a little with AC off, but runs pretty well. But with the air conditioner on?
Stalls about 50% of time when backing with A/C on. From stoplights, sputters all the way through intersections with A/C on, sometimes backfires. On a few occasions, the Check Engine light will blink on and off while it's doing this. After it gains a little speed/rpm, though, it's all good again, light goes back off.
Had full tune-up just before we bought it 4,000 miles ago. Air filter clean. Not sensors, because the CEL goes back off by itself. What the heck? How could the A/C cause a backfire?
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I have a 1997 ford f 150 with a 4.2 ltr v6 the check engine light came on so i took it to autozone and had the code pulled. They told me that the o2 sensor bank2 sensor 1 which is before the converter had a slow response so i checked the wiring and bought the o2 sensor. They told me bank 2 is the passenger side but well i changed the1st sensor on the passenger side and reset the code and drove the truck about 130 miles . and the light came back on. After reading a few posts. I think they told me wrong is the drivers side bank 2 or is the passenger side bank 2 ...
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I have a 1997 Dodge Neon with about 153,XXX miles on it. My check engine light has been on and i know that is caused by a random misfire. But more recently i went to start my car and it started but ran for less then 10 seconds and died. I tried to start it again and it wanted to but wouldnt make the final step i guess. We checked my spark plugs and i had oil sitting in 3 of the 4 there are. We have tried starting it again after cleaning the oil out and it started on the first try, I am just afraid of messing anything else up so until we figure out why it did this to begin with the vehicle is off limits. My Fiance said we need to replace the spark plugs and a gasket.
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While driving up a long hill on the highway, one of the cylinders quit firing causing a bad engine vibration and check engine light. I turned around and drove home, pulled the plugs, and found the plug closest to the passenger side had bridged. I'm not sure why; it almost looked like it melted or had some sort of physical damage. This was on a 2013 Sonata Limited 2.0t with 45000 km / 28500 miles.
Pictures here: Spark plug failure - Album on Imgur
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I have a 2002 prius with 143,000 miles. On Friday, I went to start my car and put it in gear and the check engine light came on and the "triangle of death" lit up and car died. I turned it off and waited about 30 seconds and tried starting it again. It started and I drove 1/2mile home. Went into the garage and got the Actron/OBDII code reader. Pulled the code P3125 which when I googled it, it was referring to the inverter. I cleared the code and all was well.
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I have recently had about $1620 worth of work done on my 2000 4Runner because the check engine light came on and the code was P0420.. My invoice says they replaced the exhaust pipe assembly. Now 2 weeks later the light is back on with the same code...are the 02 sensors part of the "exhaust pipe assembly" or are they now going to tell me I need a bunch (2-4) 02 sensors replaced.
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I have a 1998 chevy 3500 2wd pickup with a 454 engine. The check engine light is on. I have had the codes read and they were for a MAF and MAP sensors. I have replaced both. The check engine light is still on saying that I have a bad MAF sensor. I replaced it again. The check engine light still is on. What else should I look at to fix this problem??
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my 92 subaru check engine light has been on for months. I took it to my mostly-trusted mechanic. He hooked it up to the computer and the car did not give any codes. He reset the light, but it came right back on when started. I am wondering about the coolant temp sensor but I would expect that would give a code. Why won't a check engine light give a code?
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2002 Santa Fe, 2.7 AWD
The transmission has started going into limp mode and causing the check engine light to come on.
The codes given are p0750 and.... I think p0751, for shift solenoids C and D. There is also the generic Transmission Control Module code.
Limp mode only occurs at higher speeds although shifting feels a little rough at times in lower speeds.
If operated in manual mode the vehicle can be driven normally at all speeds without going into limp mode.
Fluid levels are fine.
With limp mode occurring in automatic but not occurring in manual mode, is it more reasonable to believe the solenoids are malfunctioning or the control module itself? I'm inclined to replace the solenoids but find it odd that the vehicle operates normally in manual. Also, can the solenoids be replaced without removing the transmission? It looks like I could get the pan off but am unsure if there is room to get the work done once it is removed.
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Will overfilling transmission fluid cause hard shifts? I used ~4.3 quarts to refill. How much should I drain out? My check engine light came on.
Basically, I am having hard shifts from 2-3 and 3-4 in tip mode and auto. more tip mode tho.
-I did a complete solenoid change b/c of cold start problem with n92 solenoid.
Fixed the cold start shifting out of first.
-Did a trans fluid change with Mercon V ATF Fluid works fine.
-Just changed oil on 4th of July last week.
Yesterday my check engine light came on. It's been about 500 miles since the solenoid change/trans fluid change, and 100 miles since the oil change.
Now my Mk4 is having this obnoxious shifting. I am thinking I possibly added too much trans fluid into my system as I do not have the VAGcom tool.
I drained out (bone dry drain till no more dripping from check/drain plug), roughly 4 quarts. I added 4.3 give or take 0.1 quarts back into the car.
Now I'm worried because everywhere I'm reading says anywhere from as little as 2.1 quarts to 3.5 quarts.
Should I drain out 0.5 quarts (because I know theres over 4 in there now) to make it 3.5 quarts?
Or should I just redrain the whole thing and start by measure one quart at a time?
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