Mazda - Tribute :: 2009 - Suddenly Loses Acceleration While Driving
May 28, 2016
Today leaving work my 2009 Mazda Tribute suddenly lost all acceleration after pulling out of the parking lot. Didn't die but was running like it was about to. Pressing the gas pedal had no effect at all. When I turned the car off and started it again, it did start -- with trouble but it started. It ran OK for a few miles but suddenly lost acceleration again. Same thing. The car ran but the gas pedal had no effect. Shutting off and restarting got it going. In the 30 mile trip home it did it a total of 3 times. Each time shutting off and restarting. When I was able to accelerate, it seemed to accelerate OK, but at the same time felt weak and .... laggy. That last part could just be in my head though. Just wondering where to start to fix this.
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I was on my way home suddenly the acceleration of the trib went sluggish.... low idle especially when you put it on drive and with the a/c on. It can rev but it feels like you are revving a 1.1L engine.
What could be the cause? I already had the sensors etc cleaned 6 months ago.....It has NO check engine light.
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I have a 2002 Mazda tribute, and I was driving down the road yesterday when I heard a loud pop. After, the check engine light started blinking, the lights and electricity started struggling, and I hear a loud thwack thwack thwack sound when I step on the gas. This sound gets louder and faster the more I hit the gas. When I checked under the hood, the serpentine belt looks fine, and there is no visible damages but when the car is running it sounds like I have no exhaust system it is so loud.
What could have happened and where I should start working? Family and friends have thrown out a few things but I do not want to start taking things apart if If they are not the problem.
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A year 1/2 ago my wife's car (2008 Mazda Tribute) started acting funny.
The brakes started squeaking while driving, but as soon as the brakes were applied, the noise stopped. They also had a mild grinding sound. Not a metal on metal (aka no brake pads)...very superficial. Had to slam on the brakes and it activated the ABS (light did not come on) which caused the brakes to go to the floor.
Brought it in to the mechanic we always bring it to. They changed the pads and resurfaced the rotors. I KNOW they bought the cheapest aftermarket pads. I'm sure that and because the pads weren't deglazed (I'm assuming they didn't) is what is causing the noise.
Well...brakes worked fine. Months later had to slam on the brakes again. Again, ABS activated (no light came on), brakes went to the floor. A day later it was still going to the floor.Brought it back to the mechanic. They said nothing was wrong with the brakes, but they resurfaced the rotors. Brakes back to normal.
Happened again. Noises still there. Rotors resurfaced. I asked if the cheap aftermarket pads could be the problem. Of course the shop said no. Brakes went back to normal. Well, it happened again. Had to get on the brakes. and now they are almost going to the floor.
Brought it to a shop and they bled the brakes (not sure if they pulled the ABS fuse or not). Brakes are still spongy and go down far, but not as bad. Doesn't appear to be the brake booster (put foot on brake while car is off and brakes depress when car is started). Brought it to another mechanic (thinking it was the master cylinder) and he says he doesn't think it's the master cylinder, but an ABS problem.
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My AWD 1996 Subaru Legacy Station Wagon suddenly loses power while I'm driving......
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My mercury Monteray 2004 model, suddenly loses power while driving. This has happened both on the freeway and on the local roads. I then have some how driven it to the shoulder. After stopping for couple of minutes when I restart the car it works and I have been able to drive it. I have taken it 3 times to the dealer and he has not been able to identify the problem. I am extremely scared of driving the vehicle. We even had flight recorder from the dealer on the vehicle and recorded the incident 3 to 4 times and still the dealer has not been able to figure out what the issue is. They say that they have tried several times and have not been able to recreate the issue. They say that they have tried to recreate the issue with a computer attached so they can record the issue when it occurs. But apparently they have never been able to recreate the issue. Other wise the van is in excellent condition. What could be the issue? We have not been able to use the van for over 6 months and do not know what to do with it.
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Traveling approximately 40-45 MPH and my engine just quits. I was able to turn(very hard without power) to get off the road. I tried to restart the vehicle and it wouldn't crank over. After calling roadside assistance and the PD, I tried again and it stated. On the same day, I was driving home from appointment and it happened again, this time while accelerating from a stop and making a left turn. Same scenario, only this time the truck turned over a lot quicker than the first time. A couple days later, it happens again while accelerating after a stop and making a left hand turn. Now I call the mechanics and ask if this could have something to do with the module they replaced for my AC. They check out the truck and get a new module to install, which they did under warranty. We also left the truck with them to drive to see if it did it to them, it didn't. So DH takes truck and he drives it and it does it to him. Now though, with me and with him, the truck seems to start back up quicker than the first and subsequent times. We are going away for a bit and plan to leave the truck with the mechanics to drive to see if it does it to them since they still haven't had it happen while they've had it. I'm stumped. They were able to fix the ac very reasonably and a few other things have popped up, but this truck has been really good to me and I'm trying to drive it into the ground, so to speak, as it still has very low mileage for its age. Of course, the thought of it just conking out while driving is very disconcerting. I wait until the roads are completely clear to do u-turns and such, but in the back of my mind, I know it can shut off anytime.
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While driving my 1998 Chevy Prizm, my car lost the ability to accelerate but the car never lost power. I managed to pull over and let the car run for a bit before trying to accelerate again..the car only got up to 30 mph and wouldn't go any faster.....after a couple of hours the car run okay. What could be going on? I got new spark plugs, oil change, and an idle air control valve........
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I have a 2003 Mazda 6, 5-speed manual transmission. I was driving on the highway today (going about 65mph), and all of a sudden, my car kind of "jolted" (like it stalled out). When I tried pushing the gas pedal, the car wouldn't accelerate. When this happened, the check engine light (and some other lights) went on, too. I pulled over to the side, turned the car off, and turned it back on. It seemed to start fine and gas/acceleration was working. Fortunately, I was able to get home, but it started doing it more frequently up until I got to my apartment. Each time, I had to turn the car off and restart it.
Oddly enough, when the car does this and I pull over to the side, the engine is still on. However, even though the engine is on and the car is idling, I noticed the RPMs were sort of jumping between 0 and 1000, and the engine was sputtering (like it was sputtering with the RPMs jumping, the only way I can describe this sputtering is like a heart beat). The only thing that seems to work is to turn the car off and turn it back on, which will then allow the gas pedal to work, only to have it happen again a few minutes later. The gas pedal doesn't get stuck or anything, it's just pushing it doesn't seem to accelerate the car.
I've already had the engine replaced on this car last year (at 80K) and the clutch a few months ago, too.
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I am a proud owner of a 06 Mazda tribute 3.0, 6 cylinder, 2 wheel drive, automatic. That is not the problem. The problem is on long drive 100 miles or more when we take a pit stop, to stretch our legs, we exit and when we come to a stop the suv stalls out. Its like we are driving a manual and forgot to push in the clutch. We can start it right back up and when we put it in drive it does it again. If we start it in neutral it will ideal but as we shift to drive it stalls out. We are not seeing any other problems. The MPG are the same and haven't gotten any worse. What should I look into fixing?
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I have a 2008 Mazda Tribute with 93k miles on it. These last few years have been a nightmare. The car is constantly in the shop. I’ve been trying to diagnose and repair front end problems. Recently, I had my tires rotated and balanced. New sound: Now I’m having loose play in my steering wheel and a loud clicking/creaking sound when I turn the wheel at low speeds or attempting to parallel park. Ongoing sound: the car makes a tight creaking noise when I stop at low speeds. This sounds like something is tightening or screechy brakes. Here’s all of the repairs that I’ve done to the vehicle:
46,000 (11/16/12) Replaced entire right-front CV axle.
52,201 (3/10/13) Replaced front brake pads and rotors. Replaced both front sway bar links.
58,602 (7/10/13) Replaced both front control arms, serpentine belt, and tensioner/pulley for belt.
66,257 (3/23/14) Transmission fluid changed, leaking value seals replaced, spark plugs + wires changed.
81,258 (8/16/15) All four tires replaced with new ones.
84,797 (9/12/15) New front brake pads (ceramic), rotors serviced.
86,391 (10/5/15) Both front struts replaced, both outer tie-rods replaced, wheel alignment performed.
91,308 (1/12/16) Both front ball joints replaced. Both front wheel bearings replaced.
93,744 (3/5/16) Tires rotated and balanced.
I’m running out of things to fix on the front suspension of this vehicle it’s extremely frustrating. I’m nervous to drive on freeways at high speeds because the steering is wobbly but I don’t know how to fix it.
Here's a youtube video where you can hear the noise. Note the "play" in the wobbly steering wheel when the video first starts. [URL] ....
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I was backing out of the driveway a day ago and my gear got stuck in neutral,can not move the gear shifter and just don't know what to to do. This has never happened before.
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i have a 2005 mazda tribute v6. it has been knocking for about a year slowly geting worse. no check engine lite on, so i think it may be the egr valve. just wonder how to check it.
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I have an 08 mazda tribute 2.3litre 5 speed. The truck started losing power and bucking really bad about 2 months ago. If I shut the truck off and let it sit for a few minutes, then start it back up, it runs fine for maybe 10 minutes or maybe a week then it eventually starts missing and bucking again. It throws the code p0191 which is the fuel rail pressure sensor. I have replaced the sensor twice and put new plugs, wires, coil packs, fuel filter and even replaced the pcm. The truck is still doing the same thing and throwing the same code. My Mechanic and myself are stumped.
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I have a 2002 Mazda Tribute V6 with 151K. My check engine light has come off and on for quite a while now, mostly it would come on when it rained and then go off when the weather cleared. When it was on, the engine would sputter or misfire. I first had Auto Zone hook it up and they said it needed its plugs and wires changed. No problem. I took it in to a repair place and was informed that I don't have plugs and wires, but something with coils and that since it was impossible to determine which coil was bad, all would have to be replaced at a cost of $1500. I then took it to another repair place and they said the same thing. Now I have seen some discussions regarding this same thing and apparently some people have been able to identify a specific coil. At this point my check engine light is now on all the time and I'm really worried about doing terrible damage.
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I'll be driving the car fine, but after driving for maybe 10+ minutes and then stopping for 20-30 minutes, my manual 2002 Mazda Tribute DX (about 126K miles) won't start. It doesn't act flooded at all, all I hear is a click. The lights and radio and air conditioning and everything come on perfectly, but it won't start. About half of the time, it won't work at all with repeated attempts but after about 5 min. it'll just start normally. I've towed it to a shop 3 times now, on the first the alternator was replaced, and after about a week the same problem occurred, etc.
My mechanic then thought I might not be pressing the clutch all the way down since it worked right after towing but after about a week (I removed the floor mat and even made a video of me, a relatively large male, pressing as hard as safely possible on the clutch) but it still wouldn't start. It was towed, and now the car is at the shop again but the mechanic can't reproduce the problem yet again. Its battery and clutch were just replaced about a year ago, the connections don't look corroded, and my mechanic's tests on the alternator seem fine. Steering wheel isn't locked, and (supposedly) the shop's tried looking at the starter.
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both wiper fluid jets on my 2003 Mazda Tribute have been weak, I'm guessing they're not BOTH blocked or obstructed, so would the community surmise that it's time for me to replace the wiper pump? And if so, is this a difficult repair?
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The engine in my 2006 Mazda Tribute seems to have developed a knocking noise. I am not sure what causes it or how to determine where it is coming from.
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I have a 2003 Mazda Tribute that seems to have a bit of an idling issue. When my heat on my car is off, everything is fine as far as the idle speed. When I have the heat on, even when it is low, and I am stopped, the rpm's rise a bit, then go back down to normal idling speed. The car also gives a little jump when I come to a stop. I think all of this is related to turning the heat on and off, as it doesn't happen when the heat is on.
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I have a Mazda Tribute with a manual transmission. About two years ago a sporadic issue started occurring. I would drive somewhere with no problems. Stop the car and park. Then when I would go to drive off the car would stall. It stalls and stalls and stalls. Start up the engine, it cuts out. Weird thing is that I can limp home. I give it gas and I back up. Then when I stop it stalls. I shift into 1st and drive, I can get up to highway speeds no problem, then drive (the most I have had to go is 45 miles) on the highway, but when I get off and get to a stop or a light, the car stalls. Start it up and keep this going all the way home.
Two hours later, get in the car... like NOTHING happened. I have brought it to my mechanic, the dealership and asked countless friends to no avail. They always say "bring the car to me when its doing that." The one time I had a shot at that, I got it to the dealer, and then it didn't stall. It stalled the whole way to the dealer, but not when I got there.
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When I am slowing to a stop, my engine idle gets really low (like 500rpm or less) and sometime stalls. At the same time, the oil light comes on. It does this all the time, and yes I've had my oil changed recently and actually I just checked it the other day and it was fine (along with all other fluids).
I've had the mechanic take a look at this three times and every time something gets fixed but this problem remains. They now say it's a ghost. It is not the air intake (I've had all of the hoses checked and a bad one replaced). It's not the electrical (I've had the spark plugs and cables replaced about a year and a half ago).
I've pretty much had everything that a car of a certain age needs done fixed/replaced in the past year or so, and I still can't figure out what could be causing this. A recent show had a similar problem, but the gal didn't mention the low idle/stalling. In that show they mentioned that she should have the oil pressure gauge checked or replaced, but would that cause the low idle/stalling? I don't know what to do and I'm very reluctant to go to a dealer.
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