Mazda - Transmissions - Protege5 :: 2002 - Sudden Downshift At Approx 60 Mph
May 1, 2011
I have a 2002 Mazda Protege5 (auto trans, 80k) that will occasionally make a sudden downshift at approx 60mph. The car will lurch, the speedometer briefly goes to zero (while the car is maintaing speed) and then within less than 5 seconds, the speedometer (dial type) will return to proper speed reading and car will upshift back to proper gear.
This seems to happen around 60 mph and also occasionally happens on highways as the car begins to go on a downslope while maintaining highway speed. This happens frequently but not on every trip. When first happened, took to shop, they found AT fluid very dark and flushed and replaced AT fluid and filter. Problem not eliminated.
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Noticed slow to move forward at a stop sign, pulled in to get gas, after fillup would not drive forward in any gear, drives fine in reverse. The station attendant checked the fluid, said it was a little low bot looked ok and did not smell burnt. He added some more but no luck. Was able to get home, short drive in first. Should i try to drive to transmission shop if any better or tow? No problems in past 178K, kept up with all regular service and fluid changes. Does this sound like a doomed transmission? Anything i can do short term to get thru holidays?
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I have had a few times when my 2013 Chevy Traverse LT suddenly jumped to a low gear while quickly slowing down, causing the RPMs to jump up to 4-5000 RPMs. It remains in that gear until I am practically stopped. Is this normal?
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Recently my '11 supercab suddenly downshifted from 6th to 3rd while rolling along easily at about 50mph at the bottom of a very slight downgrade. It has done this 3 times now and takes me totally by surprise every time. I have an appointment next week to get it looked at, but my dealer is about 225 miles away and it's a real pain to take it in.
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I have had this car for 4 years, and it's been driving, and handling very well overall. Lately, I started hearing a soft scratching noise when accelerating, and especially going from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd gear. There was some hesitation before shifting to the higher gear as well. I took the car to a local mechanic, and after test driving, and listening to the engine with a tube??? he told me that he needed to change the torque converter and the pump, and quoted me for $1936. My wife immediately wanted to sell the car and buy a new one. Half of my friends said the same thing (well, at least my richer friends did), and the others said to fix it and drive it while I could do so.
So, I took the car to another transmission specialist, and they told me that the transmission was in great condition, fluids, shifting, etc. Something doesn't add up here. I know that the engine/transmission doesn't sound the same as when I bought the car, but how is it possible to have that kind of diametrically opposite diagnosis. Meanwhile, I took the Mazda to a local dealership, and they quoted me for $4500 trade-in value, while CARMAX said they would give me $2500. Needless to say, I am at a crossroad - we know we have to change the car soon, but how soon and under what circumstances, this is the question. Then, just today, another mechanic said that the engine is unbalanced, and is giving a low, and powerful vibration, and the harmonic balancer needed to be changed.
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Last time I took my car for service at 26K miles, I picked it up asked if all is well. "Yes all is well", and I am glad I can continue my weekend. I get in it, drive it out and upon reaching 40mph a clunking noise comes from the front tire. I mean to bring it back but eventually the noise is less. I assume something was wrong. Before I know it, it is 31K miles and i need to bring it back to service. I mention the front left tire. Turns out all 4 tires are cupped. They recomend changing the tires. I what to see if i can afford it and to see the tires myself. There is some shape alteration.
I take it easy because i think...if the tires are not great, i should be careful. Both the husband and I go to a shop, drink coffee, I think i can change the tires in a few days. On my way home, as I am trying to merge into traffic and get up to speed one huge puff of white smoke comes out, lights pop up (OBD blinking and solid slip light). My husband was right behind me with his Tundra. We are only a couple of miles away from the dealership and decide to bring it back...slowly nothing above 30mph. Service dept is closed and I have left it overnight.
Both of us agree...this should not be happening...specially when I have always serviced it regularly at the dealership and have always requested the recommended service.
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I've been watching my mother's 1976 Fiat convertible this summer. It had been taken to the shop about 6 weeks ago and it's been running fine without any problems. I had to leave for about three weeks and now the car will not start.
When I turn the key in the ignition with the clutch engaged, the engine turns, but pressing down on the gas pedal has no effect. The engine doesn't rev nor does it catch. There is gas in the tank and clean oil. I checked all the connections I didn't find anything loose.
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I drive a 02 Passat GLS 1.8t 5 speed and whenever i down shift to slow down it feels like the clutch will catch and then slip and catch and then slip!?!?! the car will "jerk" really hard when this happens and the front end will drop..
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My daughter's 2002 Saturn S-series coupe has a manual transmission. Lately it has been jumping out of 2nd gear, and occassionally 4th and reverse. What is the most likely cause?
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On a regular basis if I drive 20 miles out of town, on my way back the transmission starts to shift hard (long shift?). From my research online, the 4T65-e is a faulty transmission to begin with. Is it worth replacing the Shift and Pressure solenoids? If I were to buy a new transmission where should I look? What are some model numbers?
Oil, trans fluid, filters are changed on regular basis.New catalytic converter. No Check Engine Light.
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I have the above referenced car with about 65k miles on it. Today I took it for a drive, switched it to tip-tronic manual and found that the car would not shift past 3rd gear. When I switched to automatic, the transmission stayed on tip-tronic (the display indicated I was on 3rd gear). I had to fully stop the car, place it on park and only then did the transmission switch to automatic.
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My truck won't down shift most of the time if I'm in 4wd especially I have to manually shift or stop let the rpms go to idle then it shifts down and I can take my foot off the brake and drive again not good when ur in deep mud and u start slowing down and can't bring rpms up...
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I am having issues that i think are related to the transmission.
When I am stopped and the car is in drive it starts to vibrate significantly however once i start moving again the vibrations stop.
Switching to neutral or reverse also causes the vibrations to stop.
I am thinking that somehow the transmission is not fully disengaging when the break is pressed like it is supposed to but i may be way off on this.
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Have just purchased a 02 prius with a transmission that slips. Would this be a electric motor problem or actual tranny problem?
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02 Montana with 4T65E electronic 4 speed transmission. car has 75000 miles. normal driving and shifting seems to be fine. Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor. no check or service engine lights.
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Our 2002 Hyundai Elantra is having issues. It shifts fine, no need to double-clutch. It stays in gear. Doesn't grind or anything crazy like that. It does seem like it isn't getting power to the drivetrain, and is having trouble climbing hills. This all came on very suddenly. Hubby thinks it's the clutch -- I think it may be the bushings. Though now, I'm wondering if it's something else? Since it's not having trouble shifting, should we be looking at the fuel system? Sensors? Engine seals?
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On Friday the engine in my V8 stalled while driving at approx 40 mph. I shut it off and restarted, and it idled very rough and stalled again. I had it towed home. Tried starting it at home. started and idled fine. Just went out this AM, started it and drove it around the neighborhood, ran fine. The check engine light never came on at any time. I had noticed one of the variable intake linkage arms as being busted and thought that was the cause. I now understand that that is most likely not related.
So, where does this leave me? As I was listing too it running, I noticed a faint humming coming from this thing on top of the motor. Underneath the VW logo cover is a round black plastic piece with a large hose attached to the side, and a hose coming out the bottom. If I tilt this slightly, the humming stops. I realize this probably has nothing to do with the stalling, but I'm fishing.
Why the car stalled, and/or if this crankcase ventilation/emissions device should be humming.
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Yesterday there was a lot of rain. The car stalled during the rain at approx 2k rpm on 4th gear. I tried starting it and it did nothing as if battery was dead. Before this I was getting alternator workshop icon and lost of power steering (I believe because of PS belt). Anyways, Car doesn't want to crank, starter won't do anything but click.
Could the motor have gotten water in it by the CAI? There was little condensation on the MAF but not enough to get to the throttle body. Anyways, once they towed it home I removed coils and spark plugs and started it to remove any water but starter won't go.
I have checked all fuses, I've connected Vagcom and shows nothing since car won't start. Is there a sensor that goes bad with the rain? I've heard of crank shaft sensor, would it mean anything here? Has starter gone bad? Is the motor frozen up?
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1986 302 w/ 160k miles. Loses oil pressure at idle after driving approx 10 miles. Rev engine to about 1500 rpm and hold it there, pressure builds back up. Oil & filter change w/ 10W30 gives no improvement, oil & filter change w/ 20W50 cures problem for 100 miles, then the pressure starts dropping again. Oil pump problem or bad bearings? BTW, when pressure drops, I do not hear any lifter clatter.
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