Mazda - Protege - Tires :: 1999 - Rear Passenger Tire Seemed Very Low
Oct 31, 2011
I bought a 99 Mazda Protege ES two years ago. About eight months ago, i noticed that my rear passenger tire seemed very low. Not flat, but very very low. I filled it back up to 32psi, as recommended in the owner's manual. Then in June, it seemed low again. I bought a pressure gauge, checked all my tires and filled up the one that was low (14psi). Throughout the summer and early fall, I would check my tires once a month and the rear passenger tire would always need air. Now it is the end of October and I've had to fill the tire up three times in the past month.
Obviously, I need a new tire. My question is: is there a viable way to fix a slow-leaking tire? Or do a need to buy a new one? Also, can I just buy one tire?
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I have a 2002 Mazda Protege DX. I recently had a flat on the front passenger side. The tire was worn and the shop replaced both front tires, rotated them to the back and the ones that were in the rear to the front. So the new tires are on the rear and the the old tires are in the front. When we got the car back it started pulling pretty drastically to the right and on the highway has a tendency to dart (it was not like this when we brought it in). We took it back and they said that it was due to uneven ware on the front and bad bushings. Is this true? And, why would it be fine one evening and start to pull so drastically the next day?
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I read here that some tire noise can be caused by bad belts. How do you know if the tire belt is bad? My tires get loud between 20 and 40 mph. Mechanic says the tires are OK but to replace them to get rid of the noise.
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I recently noticed a humming noise coming from the passenger side on my Mazda Protege 2000 ES . I suspected it was the water pump, so I took the car to my mechanic. He inspected the coolant reservoir and it was empty. He also checked the noise and the area were the pump is, and told me that the water pump had to be replaced.
My dad told me that his 1994 Sentra had the water pump replaced but none of these things had to be done and that it was unnecessary. But then I thought, every car is different.
I was in shock with how much the repair would cost, so he then gave me another quote with just the timing belt and water pump replacement for $503, but this time he said that he will not give me any warranty for the repairs because of the tensioner.
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2003 Mazda protege with 105,000 miles. Have had an intermittent clunking sound from rear for years. Mechanic says rear sway bar is bent. Already replaced bushings because they were bad. Do I need to spend $289 plus labor to replace the sway bar?
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I have a 1999 Mazda Protege. As of last summer it started giving me problems with not wanting to start after I had driven it around town for a little while. (IE: to the grocery store, to the bank and then to my sister's house. It wouldn't give me the same problem if I just went to the grocery store and back home. It would start up fine and I'd be on my way. Only when I went somewhere and shut it off then repeated that a couple more times.) I took it to a mechanic who wholeheartedly believed it was the coil packs not allowing my car to function properly.
So we replaced those and everything seemed on the up and up. (Keep in mind that this was towards the end of summer and the temperature was dropping.) The car was perfect all throughout the fall and winter, but now that the temperature outside is starting to rise again it's beginning to do the same thing it did last summer. I don't want to take it to another mechanic that's going to have me dish out an extravagant amount of money again only for the problem to persist.
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I have 1999 Mazda Protege that has a transmission fluid leak. I took it to a transmission shop close by, and they said it is either the torque converter or the front pump. I also have oil in the coolant reservoir, which I was told they wouldn't be able to tell where the oil is coming from until the leak is fixed.
My question, is what could have caused either the torque converter or the front pump to leak? Wear and tear and old age? Or could it have been caused by something else?
I realize at some point I will just have to decide, but any input on whether it's a worthwhile fix? The shop quoted me $787 for the front pump, and said the torque converter would be a few hundred more. That's not taking into account the possible issue with the radiator from the oil in the coolant reservoir.
The car has approximately 160,000 miles on it. The catalytic converter will need to be fixed at some point in the future, the O/D light is flashing (though I'm not sure if it's related to my transmission problems at all), cruise control doesn't work, and the drivers side mirror is broken...
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My 1999 Mazda Protegé has the hiccups ...every now and then it loses power for a fraction of a second. It lasts just long enough to feel it clearly, but it's gone before I can think about it. Very distinct sensation, but it certainly doesn't push me against the seat belt. It's been doing this for over a year (about 5-7,000 miles). No Check Engine Light has appeared at any time. The timing belt was replaced a few thousand miles back.
Yes, I've had it to a mechanic, a trusted local one. I even left it with him for several days. The car won't hiccup for him. I sometimes notice it around town, but I notice it more when driving on the highway (which has probably been over half my mileage in the past year), but I'm still disappointed that it won't do it for him. He suspects a spark plug wire -- he says it's probably only one cylinder based on my description -- but doesn't want to start replacing the wires if he can't diagnose it.
Recommendations? Should I just replace the wires and figure if that doesn't do it, it's part of the cost of diagnosis? (This much I should be able to do myself.) Should I try something else? Actually, as I think about it, he could have been encouraging me to replace the wires myself.
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I have a 1999 Mazda Protege. In the mornings when I start my car, it revs in park, but the rpms go down when I put it into reverse and back out of my spot. When I put the car in drive, however, it will not go forward for at least 5 seconds (time has been increasing). I can press the gas and the engine will rev, but it takes a long time to actually get my little car moving forward. Is this a new transmission problem? I love this car and live in fear of having to replace it.
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The idle speed is higher than normal, about 800-900 RPM. Whenever I stop for the traffic light, the engine will behave as if someone is pressing the gas pedal intermittently. It has new spark plug wires and coil.
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I've owned this car for a year and a half. A few weeks ago, my car stopped running while i was idling. It started back up without a problem. When I got home, I saw that the coolant reservoir was empty and i topped it off. last week, a faint white smoke came from the hood while i was driving. When I got home, I saw that the coolant reservoir was empty again, so i topped it off again. This morning, the faint white smoke appeared from under the hood again. The coolant reservoir was full and there were no visible signs of leaking anywhere.
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I took our '99 Mazda Protege in for a clutch replacement. The mileage is over 150k. The car was returned with the air bag light blinking and the cruise control and horn deactivated. All were fine beforehand. The shop eventually admitted that they could have broken the clockspring during the repair. They are going to get back to me tomorrow with a quote for the repair and they told me they are going to "work with me" on the cost. I don't understand why I should pay for anything associated with the clock spring repair. Another mechanic told me they had to secure the steering during the clutch replacement and probably forgot to do it, furthermore they should cover 100% of the repair.
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According to the manual the driver's side tires get rotated with each other so the two tires always stay on that side. The passenger tires get rotated with the spare tire. So those 3 get rotated with each other. I fail to see the benefit of this other than making the tires on the passenger side last longer.
But I would always replace all the tires at the same time so don't see any benefit. When the driver's side needs tires I would replace the passenger side also. And the drawback is I will need to buy 5 tires instead of 4 when it is time to replace them. I am thinking don't allow the spare to be in the rotation tire service.
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I have been trying to fix a problem with my 06 Mazda3 (almost 90K miles) for, maybe 7-9 months now. I just got home from getting my struts all changed for about $1200 (and I would guess I am $1700+ in the hole overall on it) without fixing the problem.
It started that going over bumps would cause the front passenger tire to "bottom out" and yield a quick "thud-thud-thud" that was very distinct from sound the driver side made, which was fewer, deeper "thuds". The, later, I got noises that initially sounded like the tire brushing against the wheel well when I made sharp right turns. The noise would be more pronounced when I would turn hard right from a stop (so I would be accelerating). I would also sometimes get the suspension to "shudder" on the passenger side when I would accelerate suddenly. It seems like the nose of the car dipping during acceleration is what gets the rubbing/grinding noise.
I have brought this up at 3 oil changes at different places and brought the car in multiple other times when it bothered me. Every time they have told me everything looks fine. The noise used to happen sporadically but I could do it intentionally if I tried. Now it has gotten worse and it even happens when I bring it to the tire place, so at least I seem less paranoid. I am comforted that everything looks in order, but have avoided even getting on the highway for months fearing my wheel would fly off.
Since this started, I have:- replaced the tires- rotated the tires- replaced the brakes- replaced the front shocks- replaced all of the struts (2 hours ago)
and in my ignorance and desperation tried to replace the wheel bearings, cv joints, and tie rods but was told they are fine. I had to push to get the shocks replaced, using the mileage as justification.
I am going to bring the car back to where I had my struts done 7am tomorrow morning, tell them it is still happening, and see if they can take another look. If no dice maybe I'll call car talk a few hours later.
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My passenger rear tire is wearing out on the inside edge. Thoughts as to cause and possible fix?
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Lately I have noticed an intermittent strong overheating odor coming from the rear passenger tire area of my 1999 Sonata. I was also beginning to notice the car vibrating or riding unevenly. I took it in to Les Schwab to have the brakes checked and was told they were fine with over 50% on all four brakes. I did have the front tires replaced as they were worn and wearing unevenly and was told this is what was more than likely causing the vibrating. That was a couple of weeks ago and I had not noticed any odor coming from the wheel well until yesterday the minute I opened my car door after driving home from work there was the same strong toxic smelling odor coming from the same rear passenger wheel well, but not from anywhere else. I have only noticed this smell after driving home from work and there is a fairly steep hill I go down not too far from my home. Is this a brake issue or something else?
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Noticed something weird the other day I was driving into town and noticed it was getting hard to take off like the truck needed more power or like the ebrake was slightly on I get to my aunts house and notice that I can smell and feel heat coming off of the passenger side rear tire so I get closer and notice that the brake is locked up. what could cause this? and another weird thing about a year and half ago this same thing happened to my mother in law as she was driving the truck and me and my father in law replaced the brake caliper and replaced both rotors and pads on both rear tires and I used a good amount of grease on the slide pins so to keep the pins from seizing up. and now it locked up again what could cause this?
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I do 98% of my driving unloaded and almost never tow. (Kinda weird for an F350 huh) I know that the truck recommends going with 65psi front and 80psi rear but the rear tires seem to not be wearing evenly across the tread pattern. The edges still have the little rubber stubs sticking out of them even after almost 3000 miles. Should I be running a lower tires pressure in the rear when empty or should I just let tire rotations take care of the uneven wear. If I should air down, what pressure would be recommended? The front tires are wearing normally at 65psi and they have more weight on them then the rear.
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Have 2002 mazda protege 5 . During acceleration at 3000 rpm the engine hesitates. Computer said o2 sensor, replaced it but that wasn't it. Drilled out both catalytic, that wasn't it. Found hole in mass air flow tube, figured that is it. I haven't replaced that yet, however I used gorilla tape thinking it would be a temporary fix but that didn't work. I know I need to replace that tube, but think that it may now be a fuel pump issue??
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2000 Mazda Protege ES 1.8L
What's a good way to find whats the cause of all the rattling and knocking in the front end of my car when going over uneven terrain? It seems that noise appears only if one of the wheels is lifted up a little bit. I am attaching a picture describing the "motion" here:
Steering wheel doesn't shake when driving at high speeds and is fairly stiff, but it does pull to the right a bit, maybe because I didn't perform a front end alignment (I know this is not good) after I had most of the stuff in the suspension of the replaced; all 4 struts + boots + mounting blocks, ball joints, control arms...
Now the only part, I didn't replace was the sway bar link on the passenger side and it's being knocking for 3 years. The one on the driver side was replaced at the time the struts were replaced but I didn't have enough money to pay for the other one.
Another mechanic told me when I was quoting that sway bar links aren't really necessary as a safety feature, and a google search showed me that there are people that just take the sway bar off the car, so I left it there and just tried to live with the noise. now I am noticing the driver side is knocking as well, and I am wondering if it has to do with because I didn't replace the one in the passenger side?
I just want to rule out the possibility of another component being the cause of the noise because I am prioritizing safety over ride comfort in my attempts to save some money.
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it was over 100 degrees today in Lawrence, Kansas and on the way home from work, the air conditioner stopped making cool air. Hot air now comes out. This is a different problem that the poster before me seems to have. Mazda Protégé, 1996, 128,000 plus miles on it.
A reconditioned one was installed in 2006, compressor replaced in July, 2012.
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