Mazda - Protege :: 2000 - Humming Noise Coming From Passenger Side / Replace Water Pump?
Mar 10, 2016
I recently noticed a humming noise coming from the passenger side on my Mazda Protege 2000 ES . I suspected it was the water pump, so I took the car to my mechanic. He inspected the coolant reservoir and it was empty. He also checked the noise and the area were the pump is, and told me that the water pump had to be replaced.
My dad told me that his 1994 Sentra had the water pump replaced but none of these things had to be done and that it was unnecessary. But then I thought, every car is different.
I was in shock with how much the repair would cost, so he then gave me another quote with just the timing belt and water pump replacement for $503, but this time he said that he will not give me any warranty for the repairs because of the tensioner.
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Our 2012 camry se had a problem with the fuel pump running when the engine was off. Several hours after we came home I went into the garage for something and heard a humming noise. First thought was a distant neighbor using a leaf blower, then realized it was coming from the rear of car. definitely coming from gas tank area. Turned key on, then off and noise was gone.
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My car just started making a wheezing kind of noise when accelerating. Reminds me of wind being forced through a small hole, or the sound of a balloon being aired up.
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Recently purchased a 2002 sc430 . After an hour of driving I began to hear a buzzing or humming coming from the backseat on the passenger side . Sounds almost like a fan. Car drives just fine but the buzzing is driving me nuts.
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I hear a strange sort of light humming electrical noise coming from my (passenger side) headlight.
While driving in the dark, all of a sudden my headlights flicker intermittently and then the longer I drive they flicker a lot. I think all my lighting is effected (at least cab). Its so intermittent/quick that I was more concerned of losing my exterior headlights (dark outside then).
I've googled "dodge dakota headlight flicker" and I think I read it has to do with the cab heating (up?) and read some kind of hair dryer test and also the "central timing module" located at the drivers side kick panel. Several installed this CTM & from used junkyard CTM and indicated it was relatively simple. Price was inline with what the dealership indicated yet a couple of discrepancies:
1) the dealership parts person indicated it was located on the "passenger" side kick panel???
2) And there was programming required (my dakota has no keyless entry)????
Is the central timing module on the drivers or passenger kick panel? And does it require 'programming' (dealership)?
So, any way still researching and I saw another thread where a few dakota owners indicated they were able to get the lights flashing problem to go away simply by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes. So before purchasing the CTM, figured I would try this.....
So began disconnecting the hot battery post......and this is when I noticed this very slight humming noise and listened closely and tracked it down to the passenger headlight. I kneel down on the ground at the passenger side front & pressed my ear within a few inches of the headlight and there "is" a slight electrical sort of humming noise (I disconnected the battery to stop it). I plan on removing the headlight & examining.
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ok so i noticed recently that there was this humming noise coming the rear right passenger side everytime i accelerated up to 30mph. the noise would get louder the faster i go. i got it checked by a shop and they told me that it had something to do with my wheel bearing. my car is lowered on coil covers and I have negative camber on my wheels. Why its making this humming noise or if its because i never got my alignments. I am thinking of throwing my stock suspension back in and letting the dealership deal with it since my car is still under warranty.
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I've been noticing a low pitched humming noise coming from what sounds like the passenger side of the engine. it happened only occasionally at first but within a week of first hearing it, it is now almost all the time. here is some specifics...
-the noise always starts about 2 or 3 seconds after starting the engine.
-the pitch or loudness does not change with increased rpms or with truck in gear driving.
-the noise randomly stops for no given reason whether driving or idling then starts back up again.
-there are no performance issues while making noise, no dip in rpms, nothing. still runs the same
I've listened with the hood up and cant identify where the noise is coming from. is this something i need to get fixed asap or no? I've got a 2001 f250 5.4 with a manual tranny ....
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I bought a 99 Mazda Protege ES two years ago. About eight months ago, i noticed that my rear passenger tire seemed very low. Not flat, but very very low. I filled it back up to 32psi, as recommended in the owner's manual. Then in June, it seemed low again. I bought a pressure gauge, checked all my tires and filled up the one that was low (14psi). Throughout the summer and early fall, I would check my tires once a month and the rear passenger tire would always need air. Now it is the end of October and I've had to fill the tire up three times in the past month.
Obviously, I need a new tire. My question is: is there a viable way to fix a slow-leaking tire? Or do a need to buy a new one? Also, can I just buy one tire?
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I have a 2000 Mazda Protege ES (1.8L) with 120k+ miles and an automatic transmission. The car drives well at speed, but when sitting at stops it will shake a little, sometimes worse than others. Often the RPMs drop to below the lowest tick for a split second before recovering, very much like when driving a manual transmission and not pressing the clutch in enough. Even when the RPMs are steady at a stop, it shakes enough to rattle a couple of the plastic parts in the dashboard.
Recent history (some likely unrelated, but I'm no expert):New air hose (one from the air filter to the engine) in September. RPMs were falling at idle more often than they are now, there was a decent sized crack in the hose. RPMs stopped falling as often, but has idled roughly before and after.New radiator and thermostat in April (overheated on the interstate and cracked open).New spark plugs and wires last fall after one cylinder wasn't firing.For the last couple years every fall when it starts to get cold, the alternator belt squeaks and I tighten the bolt a little each morning until it stops (usually after 2 days, maybe 3 - the alternator itself is on a long bolt that adjusts the belt tension).Every 5k miles I have the oil changed with high mileage oil and tires rotated/balanced.
I took it to a garage a couple weekends ago after the check engine light had come on earlier in the week. I reset the computer and the light never came back on, so I lost the chance to have the code read, but there weren't any other symptoms beyond what I'm used to. The mechanics at the shop said they couldn't find anything specific causing the rough idle and suggested replacing some or all of the motor mounts, which are weak. They didn't seem confident that would fix the problem, and neither am I, as I don't see how weak motor mounts would explain the low RPMs as well as the shaking.
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So my coolant system woes have continued! I recently replaced my thermostat ,thermostat housing, thermostat cover and all of the rings and gaskets. I finally stopped the leak on the driver side which seem to be the thermostat now about seven days later I am experiencing leaking on the passenger side. I walked out from work today and noticed I pool of coolant under the car. I can't tell exactly where it's coming from but it's coming from one of the components that runs off of the large belt. I snapped a few pics from the bottom of the car I don't think this is the actual component that's leaking. I think the leak is just falling off of it . I was wondering where the water pump is located.
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So I just picked this car up, (2000 20v turbo passat) 93k miles and I did a tune up (plugs, air filter, oil change w/ oil stabilizer, and injector cleaner) when i was out beating on the car a little, afterward I got to a stop sign, and i heard a VERY LOUD noise coming from the passengers side under the hood, it almost sounded like a loud motor, or the turbo but it was too loud to really determine... it was only there for about 10 sec then turned off but came on again about 1 min later. is this a bad bearing in the turbo? or what might it be?
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The sound is coming from the front passenger side. The noise gets louder the faster I go, put in neutal and noise still there press brake noise there turn wheel no change in pitch. Jacked it up and there's no play in wheel. Just changed both front wheel bearings 6 months ago.
Just changes all brakes today and got all new tires today. I'm thinking maybe the differential bearing but not sure and if so how to change it. I travel from Mississippi to Baton Rouge, LA everyday for work, about 240 miles round trip. What would happen if a bearing went out while driving 70 mph on interstate.
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So there is a loud humming sound as I would describe, coming from the passenger side glove box when I turn my fan to run at high...
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Within the last few days whenever I am backing up there tends to be a low hum noise coming from the passenger side tire when backing up and with no pressure on the brakes. The noise is not present at any time other then backing up so I am really unsure what could be causing it.
What could be causing this before I work on it. I know its not having any problem braking as well as it is also driving straight when the steering wheel is let go in drive.
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1996 Mazda Protégé, 130,000 miles, squeaky sound coming from under the hood. Happens any time, whether I am moving or not. Should I be worried? Been going on for about 2 months.
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2001 Mazda Protégé 2.0 LX model.
When I turn on the AC I can hear the compressor working. When the fan speed is 1, 2, or 3 the AC button is green, the compressor is working but no air is coming out of the vent.
When I turn the fan speed knob to 4 the AC button light goes out and I have air flow from the vent. The hose from the compressor is cold to the touch but the air coming out of the vent on 4 is not cold.
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I think I broke my car. I just bought this car a few months ago and all seemed well. I bought new tires, changed the oil, had the brakes inspected, you know the things daddy's tell their daughters to always be sure of. I have had no problems with the car till last weekend. My boyfriend and I got into an argument, long story short I sped off, using his words "hot rod style".
I smelt burned rubber (not so new tires anymore) but I figured it was just that. When I got back home my boyfriend said that he smelt something burning under the hood. No smoke or fire just a burning odor. The next morning my car wouldn't start. We jumped it and it ran just fine. Did the errands for the day no problem.The next morning it wouldn't turn on again, this time when we jumped it, it just wouldn't start. I have checked the battery at AutoZone and they said it was fine. the fuses are all good as well.
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So I just got my sonata back from the dealer, they fixed an intermediate problem i was having with the starter solenoid when it rained. car wouldn't turn over when key was turned for about 20 clicks.. (free under warranty and got a loaner!) new starter and solenoid!
But when I got my car back i noticed a new humming coming from the AC (passenger side dash) when it was on high.. i never really noticed it before.. do you think this could be from the cabin filter? or the tech that worked on the car messed with the blower?
I was thinking about going back to the dealer and asking my service advisor about the noise.. and if he said it was normal i would walk over to the sales dept and ask to test drive one of their NF's to see if the AC made the same noise.. and either leave the dealer knowing it's a normal sound, or drive the test vehicle up to the service advisor and ask him why this sonata doesn't make that noise?
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I am replacing my front passenger side door on my 2000 Jetta GLX. I have been searching online for detailed instructions on how to do this, but have turned up empty handed.
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One last issue with my 2000 B3000 3.0L. The leak seems to be on the left (passenger) side of the water pump very near where the bottom radiator hose connects to it. I can't find any loose bolts. It does not leak while driving the truck or soon after. It has to sit for several hours or overnight before it shows up. There are usually 3 or 4 wet spots where it drips from the water pump to the frame to the driveway. It is small enough that I only have to fill up my coolant tank every 1 or 2 months. Could this just be a small gasket leak? It's been happening for about a year or so I think. I replaced the radiator about 2 years ago. I've been expecting it to get worse or bust loose and have been checking it very often. I've never seen one not leak while running like this-has me puzzled.
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2000 Mazda Protege 1.6l Just replaced timing belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, plugs and coil packs
I have checked the timing about 10 times before puting everything back together by rotating the engin clockwise. No stiff point and marks lining up perfectly every time.
Though when I turn the key in the ignition, the engine cranks but doesn't start.
Can't really check the sparks cause I am on my own, but seems like the spark plugs in 1 and 3 are wet with fuel and 2 and 4 are dry.
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