Mazda - Protege :: 1999 - Disappearing Coolant And Faint White Smoke
Jan 31, 2011
I've owned this car for a year and a half. A few weeks ago, my car stopped running while i was idling. It started back up without a problem. When I got home, I saw that the coolant reservoir was empty and i topped it off. last week, a faint white smoke came from the hood while i was driving. When I got home, I saw that the coolant reservoir was empty again, so i topped it off again. This morning, the faint white smoke appeared from under the hood again. The coolant reservoir was full and there were no visible signs of leaking anywhere.
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Ok I bought a 2006 Ford F350 with 6.0 after driving for about 3 weeks I noticed a little bit of coolant was disappearing out of reservoir. So yesterday I was driving with a load Reservoir overflows replace coolant with one gallon of coolant and finish trip with no issues. I started truck today and it will not stop smoking it is also not overheating after hearing about head gaskets. I'm hoping it might be EGR cooler white smoke smells like raw diesel fuel. What to do?
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A month ago, my 99 subaru outback started to smoking white smoke. I open the hood and coolant was all over the engine. I took it in and they supposedly put a new radiator in. Three days later the car stalled out and coolant was leaking everywhere. The shop told me it was a bad radiator and replaced it. A month went by, now all the coolant leaked out as though the car had a hang over a throw up out of the coolant hose(lower left hose). Leaving a huge green puddle in a parking lot. What do I do? Has the radiator die again (because the third time is not charming)? Should the shop guys have replaced the hoses when they replaced the radiator the first two times?Is it normal to have to take your car to the shop a month after it was fixed for the same thing?
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I noticed about 1 year ago I had diesel in my coolant but wasn't sure.. took it to a Ford Guy about 45 minute's away.. He seems to know his stuff but when he tested the coolant the results said less than 2% diesel.. But he did find an injector issue and swapped it out..
Forward to present.. there is diesel in my coolant now , since the level is rising to almost overflow and I believe this has been doing on for quite some time as I have that smell you get in the cab..
BTW - All injector cups have been done about 3 Years ago.. On another note , I get white smoke on start up especially if the truck has sat for a day or 2.. What can cause diesel in the coolant.. I did a complete coolant flush this summer and was super **** about getting all the old coolant and gunk out.. Ended up with only clear water coming out the degas
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My truck is a 2005 6.0 with no after mods and has 73000 miles on it. It began to blow white smoke out exhaust. I changed out the egr valve and cooler. After putting back together it then blew white smoke ran it to clear out. This worked however once it warmed up it began to blow thick white smoke at 20 mph and clears up by the time it reached 30mph and white smoke shoots out at rapid acceleration. As well there is coolant leaking out under the truck from somewhere in the motor about in the center. I am looking to work on this myself as I have heard of owners taking it to shops and paying a lot of money for the prob to not get fixed.
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Last time I took my car for service at 26K miles, I picked it up asked if all is well. "Yes all is well", and I am glad I can continue my weekend. I get in it, drive it out and upon reaching 40mph a clunking noise comes from the front tire. I mean to bring it back but eventually the noise is less. I assume something was wrong. Before I know it, it is 31K miles and i need to bring it back to service. I mention the front left tire. Turns out all 4 tires are cupped. They recomend changing the tires. I what to see if i can afford it and to see the tires myself. There is some shape alteration.
I take it easy because i think...if the tires are not great, i should be careful. Both the husband and I go to a shop, drink coffee, I think i can change the tires in a few days. On my way home, as I am trying to merge into traffic and get up to speed one huge puff of white smoke comes out, lights pop up (OBD blinking and solid slip light). My husband was right behind me with his Tundra. We are only a couple of miles away from the dealership and decide to bring it back...slowly nothing above 30mph. Service dept is closed and I have left it overnight.
Both of us agree...this should not be happening...specially when I have always serviced it regularly at the dealership and have always requested the recommended service.
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I have a 1999 Mazda Protege. As of last summer it started giving me problems with not wanting to start after I had driven it around town for a little while. (IE: to the grocery store, to the bank and then to my sister's house. It wouldn't give me the same problem if I just went to the grocery store and back home. It would start up fine and I'd be on my way. Only when I went somewhere and shut it off then repeated that a couple more times.) I took it to a mechanic who wholeheartedly believed it was the coil packs not allowing my car to function properly.
So we replaced those and everything seemed on the up and up. (Keep in mind that this was towards the end of summer and the temperature was dropping.) The car was perfect all throughout the fall and winter, but now that the temperature outside is starting to rise again it's beginning to do the same thing it did last summer. I don't want to take it to another mechanic that's going to have me dish out an extravagant amount of money again only for the problem to persist.
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I have 1999 Mazda Protege that has a transmission fluid leak. I took it to a transmission shop close by, and they said it is either the torque converter or the front pump. I also have oil in the coolant reservoir, which I was told they wouldn't be able to tell where the oil is coming from until the leak is fixed.
My question, is what could have caused either the torque converter or the front pump to leak? Wear and tear and old age? Or could it have been caused by something else?
I realize at some point I will just have to decide, but any input on whether it's a worthwhile fix? The shop quoted me $787 for the front pump, and said the torque converter would be a few hundred more. That's not taking into account the possible issue with the radiator from the oil in the coolant reservoir.
The car has approximately 160,000 miles on it. The catalytic converter will need to be fixed at some point in the future, the O/D light is flashing (though I'm not sure if it's related to my transmission problems at all), cruise control doesn't work, and the drivers side mirror is broken...
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My 1999 Mazda Protegé has the hiccups ...every now and then it loses power for a fraction of a second. It lasts just long enough to feel it clearly, but it's gone before I can think about it. Very distinct sensation, but it certainly doesn't push me against the seat belt. It's been doing this for over a year (about 5-7,000 miles). No Check Engine Light has appeared at any time. The timing belt was replaced a few thousand miles back.
Yes, I've had it to a mechanic, a trusted local one. I even left it with him for several days. The car won't hiccup for him. I sometimes notice it around town, but I notice it more when driving on the highway (which has probably been over half my mileage in the past year), but I'm still disappointed that it won't do it for him. He suspects a spark plug wire -- he says it's probably only one cylinder based on my description -- but doesn't want to start replacing the wires if he can't diagnose it.
Recommendations? Should I just replace the wires and figure if that doesn't do it, it's part of the cost of diagnosis? (This much I should be able to do myself.) Should I try something else? Actually, as I think about it, he could have been encouraging me to replace the wires myself.
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I have a 1999 Mazda Protege. In the mornings when I start my car, it revs in park, but the rpms go down when I put it into reverse and back out of my spot. When I put the car in drive, however, it will not go forward for at least 5 seconds (time has been increasing). I can press the gas and the engine will rev, but it takes a long time to actually get my little car moving forward. Is this a new transmission problem? I love this car and live in fear of having to replace it.
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The idle speed is higher than normal, about 800-900 RPM. Whenever I stop for the traffic light, the engine will behave as if someone is pressing the gas pedal intermittently. It has new spark plug wires and coil.
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I bought a 99 Mazda Protege ES two years ago. About eight months ago, i noticed that my rear passenger tire seemed very low. Not flat, but very very low. I filled it back up to 32psi, as recommended in the owner's manual. Then in June, it seemed low again. I bought a pressure gauge, checked all my tires and filled up the one that was low (14psi). Throughout the summer and early fall, I would check my tires once a month and the rear passenger tire would always need air. Now it is the end of October and I've had to fill the tire up three times in the past month.
Obviously, I need a new tire. My question is: is there a viable way to fix a slow-leaking tire? Or do a need to buy a new one? Also, can I just buy one tire?
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Any known issues with coolant loss on these 1.6 motors?
Seems like I've lose a bit too much considering it's only got 30k on it now (bought it at 10k). Initially smelled coolant and complained but they said it was the undercoating burning off (new car coating) - which to an extent has been correct as I rarely smell it now.
That said, I have no visible leaks to my knowledge but it's still slowly losing coolant. I've yet to need to top it off as it's still between the hot and cold lines (yes I've checked on level ground and made sure to check both hot and cold for variance but it's clearly lower then when I bought it).
Now what scares me more then anything is that I notice a bit of smoke on start up. It does not smell like coolant but it's far more then I typically ever see from just moisture burning off.
I've had vehicles sit for months that don't smoke as much on start up. It will subside eventually but it just seems to be a rather excessive amount and unfortunately I can't tell if it is happening under acceleration, etc.
First though is coolant getting in / head gasket as the idle has been slightly rough....
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I have a 2004 passat 1.8t which currently blows heavy white smoke from the tailpipe; coolant in oil and vise versa; when I open the oil fill cap / dipstick white smoke blows from there also. At first I thought it was the head gasket so I replaced it and resurfaced the head. What i noticed was burned oil on the sides inside the head. After putting everything together the smoke never quit blowing and after couple of hours the fluids mixed again. After reading the forums I took off the oil cooler and tested it by submerging it under water and hooking compressed air to the water lines -- no bubbles came out of the sides. Maybe I tested it wrong while the it is the oil cooler all along? Could it be cracked head? block?
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I have a volkswagen TDi 1.9 automatic which is using coolant more on short runs than on motorway and produces white smoke/steam on start up even when not cold which disappears after a few seconds. Other symptom is doesn't accelerate though goes OK when once up to speed. Have has cylinder head checked and new gasket so that is not the culprit and also new heat exchanger. There is also a gurgling noise which seems to be coming from the dash board though I am not sure if these things are related. I have read that the automatic has a water cooled EGR, could this be it??
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1986 Isuzu pup pickup truck
Indicators: Was running hot. Parked and inspected radiator. Empty.
Refilled with coolant. Started engine. No visible leaks. Immediate billowing of white smoke from tailpipe.
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Tonight we left baseball field and my 2005 excursion was white smoking all the way home. I Stopped Several Times And Checked Coolant Level And It Never dropped. I let it sit for a hour and coolant level is still at my black mark. So does this mean it's a injector? It poured down raining so I'll have to wait till morning. Will scanguage show any codes for injectors. If so I can program in the morning.
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I was having an issue with coolant loss and white smoke from tailpipe. Was told it was likely intake leak vs headgaskets. Changed intake gaskets, fixed the issue for a day then it started just dumping coolant from every available place in the exhaust system. Was draining a full collant bottle in about 2 minutes. Was also checking for exhaust in the coolant with the tube and blue liquid which it stayed blue. Had previously done a degas pressure test and it passed. The only test I hadn't performed was compression test which all the cylinders output was lowest 160 to the highest about 185. Did not perform a wet compression test as I was mainly looking for base compression and consistency.
Not sure what healthy is on these vehicles but considering they were all running pretty close I call it good. Also it idles just as smooth. Pulled intake a 2nd time and rechecked my previous work. Everything looked fine so I put it back together. Ran smoke free for about 50 miles now I'm back to smoke after it sits a bit but it clears up after a short drive. What am I missing? I will note that I had a small coolant leak from drivers side rear of engine that I noticed while it was parked in the shop. I'm assuming that would be the oil cooler? But oil is clean so it's not mixing. What other avenues on these engines can coolant make it into the exhaust? Drives perfect with no power loss.
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I was searching for an oil leak forever. In my search for the leak I resealed my hpop, redid oilcooler rings and last week had a friend pull my motor to redo the pan gasket. The leaks were almost down to where I thought we had them beat. Now in the last couple days I'm losing coolant and oil....bad. there is oil on the ground mostly from the cross member. Question is did my oil cooler fix not take? I have read that a nicked of ring can cause this.
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I have an '01 Grand AM GT, 6 cyl 3400 engine.
It over heated about a week ago, coolant was low so I added more. Around that time I noticed white smoke/exhaust coming out as well. There was no odor to it so at first I thought nothing of it.
After a few days, the coolant reservoir was low again. On my way home one night I noticed an engine knock that sped up and slowed down with the RPM's but didnt get louder or quieter. Fortunately, the next day the Passlock system kicked in and I havent been able to start my car in a week.
I finally figured out the passlock issue (BCM was getting water in it from somewhere, cleaned off the connector pins and it started right up! found that fix somewhere on AF)
I changed the oil and the engine knock is still there. Now its a little more prominent and the engine was shaking tonight. Took out the spark plugs and they look and smell like they have oil on them. From what I've read so far it seems like it could be a valve cover gasket and/or the head gasket.
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I have a 2006 v6 ford mustang and just developed this problem yesterday.
When I drive the car, the temp guage stay right in the middle, but when I park I get white smoke come from under the hood. I popped the hood and saw coolant leaking from where the top radiator hose meets the engine block. This was producing the smoke. When I checked the hoses, the top hose was hot and hard, the bottom hose was cool and soft.
Extra info:1. I did not touch the radiator to see if there were cool or warm spots2. The overflow bottle looked empty or close to it, but the engine was still hot from driving to work
Thinking this could be one of the following:
1. bad thermostat
2. clogged radiator
3. Air bubble somewhere blocking the coolant flow
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