Mazda - Protege :: 1999 Air Bag Light Blinking / Cruise Control And Horn Deactivated After Clutch Replacement
Jul 8, 2015
I took our '99 Mazda Protege in for a clutch replacement. The mileage is over 150k. The car was returned with the air bag light blinking and the cruise control and horn deactivated. All were fine beforehand. The shop eventually admitted that they could have broken the clockspring during the repair. They are going to get back to me tomorrow with a quote for the repair and they told me they are going to "work with me" on the cost. I don't understand why I should pay for anything associated with the clock spring repair. Another mechanic told me they had to secure the steering during the clutch replacement and probably forgot to do it, furthermore they should cover 100% of the repair.
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I have a 93 Aerostar 4.0 and it is displaying the blinking airbag light (3-2) and the horn doesn't work and the cruise control failed. I believe it is the clockspring ...
QUESTION: Can the clockspring be repaired or must it be replaced. I do not have a schematic of the electrical components of the clockspring ...
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The check engine light is blinking on my 98 Mazda Protege. I'd like to purchase one of those little hand held computers so that I can diagnose the problem myself. Should I leave it up to the professionals?
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Airbag light flashes on dash and then stays on. Cruise control and horn wont work. I cant find a blown fuse.
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So yesterday we had a bit of snow north of the city. I was driving on the highway and suddenly my cruise control deactivated and I got a message to clean the radar. Then I had PCM flash every second or so. I was really frustrated because this is a MINIMAL amount of snow and it's not even below zero. I'm hoping that this isn't an ongoing issue with these cars? Any solution besides getting out of the car and cleaning it? When I got home I saw that there was a layer of ice on the Lexus logo on the front of the car.....
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My 2005 Subaru Legacy 2.5i - the engine light is on and the cruise control light is blinking. This happened once before and it went away after I recapped the fuel cap. However, this time it did not work. The car is running ok.
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My 08 altima cruise control comes on and the set light keeps blinking the service book says take it to my dealer is there anything I can do to fix it myself could it be a air leak or something?
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I have a 2001 F-250 SD XLT with the ABS light on, cruise control doesnt work and the horn only works with the key out. The codes for the ABS is no signal input from the left and right front wheel sensors. No problem there. Also my speedo stops or jumps when I press the horn button while driving down the road. When I quit pressing the horn button the speedo works fine. So after looking over the posts on cruise control, etc. Does the rear speed sensor have anything to do with the cruise, horn not working? All fuses are good so I am thinking the cruise control switch on the master cylinder or a short in the steering wheel column or my ignition switch. What do you all think?
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This has happened only once the other night. I was cruising about 50MPH, hit the brakes for a red light, while I was at the red light the Cruise Control light started flashing. The cruise control would not engage at any speed during the flashing stage, and I didn't think it would as a flashing light usually means a malfunction. I went a few miles turned the car off, restarted it and haven't had a problem since. Just chalk this up to a 1 time glitch?
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I'm at my wit's end trying to install cruise control in my 2009 Corolla. I thought it was a relatively easy install, but then after putting the airbag in place, I find that the horn no longer works. I test out the cruise control, and the green "Cruise" lights up on the dashboard..but it doesn't actually work.
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So I'm driving along with everything fine till I pull into a neighbors driveway to drop off some stuff. As I pull in, the check engine light suddenly comes on and the cruise control light starts blinking. As I have a scangauge II always connected, I put the car in park and check the code. It comes up as P0000. I get on my Droid III and google it - all I see is "null code" so I clear the codes and everything is fine. I figure "that's odd, but whatever". I drive home (about 1000 feet) and park and shut the car off and go inside to mull this over.
I go back out to check out the scangauge again and it requires starting the car to read out the codes. The car won't start. The battery is fine, and in fact it does the "rurrr rurrr rurr" strongly for 10 times before I figure it's not starting. I wait about 30 seconds and try again - same thing. I wait about an hour or two and try again and it starts this time right away, but then stalls right away. Start again and manually give it some gas and it keeps idling weakly. I'm able to back out and drive a short distance and come back without a stall. I let it sit for the weekend (no shops open anyway) and start it monday morning with my AAA card out... and it starts fine and runs fine all day. I basically forget about it.
About a week and a half later, I'm driving along a country highway at 55 Mph, and the same thing happens. Check engine light, cruise control light blinking and the cruise actually cuts out so I'm losing speed suddenly. I run the scangauge again and same code. The car keeps running fine though, I'm able to drive it back (w/out cruise control) the 5 miles home. Nothing out of the ordinary.
I go inside and google this some more, and there's some posts about the Scangauge causing this - but I've been using it for about 4 years w/out this happening. That said, about 2 months ago, there was a recall, and they flashed the ECU with some update so maybe that changed something, but still - worked for months before this happened. I had to get to work etc so I just cleared the code again, and so far 3 days without a recurrence. Currently I'm thinking about waiting to see if it happens again and going to Autozone and have them read the code to see if it really is the Scangauge not reading the code right or whatever...
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So i was replacing my power steering box after the shaft broke on it and apparently i didn't have my steering wheel back to exact center. after putting everything back together and started to drive down the road a very thin flat wiring harness broke and got tangled around my steering column under the plastics of the column. I then lost my horn and my cruise control and i believe my airbag. I pulled the wiring harness out and it was very long with two white plugs on either end. I'm not sure what this part is called or where i would be able to buy another one. And if there's some kind of instructions on how or where this harness plugs into sense it was ripped out.
2000 ford f-350 lariat 7.3l diesel....
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I have a 2002 f350 my horn went off in the middle of the night got up and unplugged the horn what is my problem. also, the cruise control won't work when it all happened
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I have a 2007 subaru outback ll bean addition with 67,000 miles. For the past year and a half my gas pedal has intermittently become unresponsive. The engine is running just fine but the check engine light and cruise control light start blinking and boom-no gas. After turning off the engine, the car won't start until the gas pedal has magically started working again. The dash lights continue to blink for several starts but then stop.
Prior to this problem, I have noticed that sometimes the console lights for the radio and AC blink and sometimes go dark at which point the controls are ineffective. As if this wasn't enough, just yesterday when trying to start the car, the engine was having trouble turning over with a rapid clicking noise. It eventually started but now the seat belt buckle alarm is out of whack and the speedometer displays "ER U1."
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128,000 + miles... The lower climate control is physically hard to move like something is blocking it. However, the intensity control moves just fine. Both do their job of controlling the temperature/intensity, etc. Why might the lower control be hard to move? Can I fix it myself?
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Many of you said it was the "ClockSpring" that needed to be replaced. But I already did that. A brand new clockspring on it. The horn only blows when the engine is off and when the engine is on the horn and Curse Control don't work. I have a 2001 Excursion. So What could the problem be? It works with the keyless remote. But just when you driving down the street and some bone head cut you off you can't just it.
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I have a 1999 Mazda Protege. As of last summer it started giving me problems with not wanting to start after I had driven it around town for a little while. (IE: to the grocery store, to the bank and then to my sister's house. It wouldn't give me the same problem if I just went to the grocery store and back home. It would start up fine and I'd be on my way. Only when I went somewhere and shut it off then repeated that a couple more times.) I took it to a mechanic who wholeheartedly believed it was the coil packs not allowing my car to function properly.
So we replaced those and everything seemed on the up and up. (Keep in mind that this was towards the end of summer and the temperature was dropping.) The car was perfect all throughout the fall and winter, but now that the temperature outside is starting to rise again it's beginning to do the same thing it did last summer. I don't want to take it to another mechanic that's going to have me dish out an extravagant amount of money again only for the problem to persist.
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I have a 2002 Mazda Protege with 74K miles. For the last month the battery light has been flashing on and off, more on lately. When I first noticed the battery light flash on, I took the car to my mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong with it. Soon after my car wouldn't start after I had it parked for about 10 minutes. It wouldn't hold a jump, so I had it towed to a nearby auto mechanic and had the battery changed. Since the battery change the battery light has still been flashing on and off. Yesterday, after my car had been parked for about 1.5 hours, it wouldn't start again. It made a click-click-click sound but would not start. My car was able to hold a jump this time and I drove it to my mechanic. Once again he was unable to find anything wrong with the car. What might be wrong with my car?
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I have an '02 F150 Lariat CC 5.4L. The truck is new to me and neither the cruise control nor the horn works. i have checked all (known) fuses and relays. I have tried the cc diagnostic, and the dash light DOES NOT illuminate. Should I assume that the dash light is not burned out? Is there a way to test the clock spring connections for continuity? and how do I access the connection
i checked the cc brake pressure switch and have continuity there.
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The steering wheel controls, horn and cruise control recently died in our '08 wagon. The fact that they went out suddenly and simultaneously suggests that they might be tied to a fuse. I looked around the intarwebs via google and saw some references to a problem with HomeLink wiring in the sunvisor blowing "fuse 5" on older models, but I'm unsure if something like this is even valid for the B6.
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I have an 89 f250 7.3. horn has not been working for the longest time the relay clicks but still nothing. It doesn't matter weather the key is in the on or off position. I know it might be a grounding problem because the cruise control does not work any more (even though recently it was working just fine). I didn't see any bad fuses.
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