My friend has a 1994 Mazda MX-6 and she tells me that it is making a chugging noise when she drives slow and it screeches when its idling. She must have had mentioned its her timing belt maybe but my brother things those don't slip really until they snap. What is wrong with this car?
View 1 Replies1996 Mazda Protege, 133224 miles, mostly city driving, automatic transmission
This weekend the car started bucking, problems shifting into gear, chugging, slight odor of oil, very slow moving. This morning (in my pf's) I ran the Scan OBDII and there were no error messages. I checked fluids and they were fine.
Possible problems? I am at a decision point, get rid of the car (needs tires, front brakes and it burns a bit of oil each month (1-2 cups) or fix it.
My car has this issue where I'll drive with the hot air on and it will be fine until I am say slowing down to a stoplight, all the sudden I will begin to hear this screeching sound. Odd thing is when I turn off the hot a/c it tapers off after maybe 5-8 seconds. Never had the belts changed which what my first thought but I thought you all would know more about this issue. What it might be?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1994 saturn SW2 120k miles. On drives more than 20miles, car overheats. Already replaced radiator, thermostat, fan, radiator hoses, water pump, coolant reservoir and cap. Coolant is clear, not milky. Checked for exhaust gases in coolant with Block Check kit...all ok. Still overheats on longer drives. Coolant boils out of reservoir thru cap. Temp runs at about 1/2 between hot and cold on short trips.
View 4 RepliesMy wife's 2005 Mazda 3 had a bit of a noise on cold start and our mechanic thought it was connected to an intake manifold flap malfunction. Now I notice it seems to have a constant ticking noise at idle. If one of the electrical connections near the intake manifold is disconnected the noise stops. Another forum suggested that connection goes to the solenoid valve. They think that valve may be stuck open and when the connection is taken away it closes and the noise stops. At least that is what I was able to extract from the discussion. Does that make sense? The solutions I saw recommended were to either replace the intake manifold or replace the solenoid valve or don't do anything because it's not harmful other than the motor may lose a little bit of power.
View 6 RepliesI've got a '94 Mazda miata which is in good shape, with among other things a fair number of suspension upgrades. It drives really well, other than the clunk. On the occasional bump it clunks as if something is loose on the driver's side rear. I've checked the shocks, springs, jacked it up and inspected everything I can think of. I'm looking for wisdom from your decades of experience (in your terms wasted time) on what it might be.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 F450 Diesel dump truck. Automatic. The problem that I have is that the truck will drive VERY SLOWLY while the rps go up.
You can hear the engine revving up, and a strong air sound when doing so (do not know if intake or exhaust, but its like a strong wind sound. And not like a hiss, so I do not think its a vacuum leak).
The transmission goes through gears fine, but it does the rev up thing through every gear. So I am wondering if something like the torque converter might be broken or slipping.
For example, if you go with the loaded truck up a hill, you have to really push it to keep any type of speed. Or when you get off a red light.
When I bought it used, I thought that it might have a really short final gear. But that would not explain the high RPM and no push.....
No codes at all.
Our 2002 Camry is in very good condition with ~75k miles. The other day we went to start the car up and it wouldn't turn over. The car would turn a couple of times and then start clicking. We jumped the car and I hopped in to take it to our local mechanic. I instantly noticed during the entire trip to the mechanic that the idle was very slow and chugging. Like it wanted to die anytime I was stopped.
I got to the mechanic and pulled in the lot. The car died. However, I was able to start it up again with no issues. A day later I get a call from the mechanic telling me that they had no issues starting the car whatsoever. They said the battery was a little weak so they replaced it (it was the original battery). I was also told that I might consider changing the spark plugs in the near future. Otherwise they said the car was running great.
After getting the car home I am once again noticing the low/chugging idle. It doesn't seem anywhere near as bad as before, but it is there sometimes.
I've been working on my car for a few weeks now and I've been doing my best to figure out. The source of this sort of 'metallic grinding' that I'm hearing within the cabin. I cant seem to pinpoint where it's coming from within the engine bay with the hood open (maybe due to the magnaflow exhaust diffusing the sound from the outside of my car). I can easily hear noise when I'm inside however with indications its coming from the lower central area of the engine bay. I drive an '04 Volkwagen GTI 1.8T
In the days I've been working on it I've replaced the:
1. Timing Belt (and tensioner pulley/tensioner dampener)
2. Water Pump
3. Serpentine Belt
4. Thermostat (and housing)
5. Clutch disk and flywheel (from a SMF to a LUK DMF clutch)
6. CV Axles (both drivers and passengers)
7. Clutch Cylinder Slave
8. Wheel Bearings (front left and right)
9. Rotors (Front Left and Right)
Diagnosis**
The car starts without any problems just as it use to prior to the replacements done. BUT it's once I get the car moving where I begin accelerating I start to hear a dull grinding noise/rumble that becomes more and more apparent the faster I go. It seems the sound is directly correspondent to wheel movement upon accelerating. Nevertheless I could be wrong.
I had a friend tag along to diagnose the sound and to him it sounded similar to the "tunneling of air not being properly sealed" but to me it sounds like a metallic grind. My friend also mentioned that he felt it was louder towards the passenger side in contrast to the drivers. As mentioned before the sound is reproduced anytime wheel movement occurs. I've checked torque spec for every replacement job done to the car so there are no loose bolts/nuts/brackets. (but there are exceptions, which I will get to).
Knowing that I've replaced both of the wheel bearings (and hub assembly) I can only assume the sources isn't from there. But I do admit a few mistakes while I had the car on jacks.
1. During the timing belt replacement I thought I would need to remove the exhaust (because I felt it would interfere with the lowering of the engine) so I, (without success), tried to remove the connection between the "bend of the exhaust" to the manifold which were 4 'turbo studs'. I had the worst time with the removal of studs but I was able to impact one them off, and as I tried another the strength of the impact broke one them half way through (meaning that I was able to unthread it a few threads but it snapped in the process, so I would need to somehow drill it out in order to replace it). This is where I gave up and did my best to install the one I had removed. Which I could only get threaded half of the way in.
-All in all I have 1 broken stud that still making a connection, and 1 protruding stud out of the 4 that connects the exhaust to the manifold.
Question: Can this be the cause of the sound? Without the full connection of 4 studs bolting exhaust to the manifold? Can this be the sound That my friend was referring to as the "tunneling air not being properly sealed"?
2. The second "mistake" isn't necessarily a mistake but a fault I found later that has to do with the Passenger CV Axle. I read a few forums here and read that it could be a problem with the axles, so I put the front end on jacks once again and found that there was a bit of movement of play on the axle shaft itself. In detail, the 2 connection points for the axle both at the Output differential flange and Hub assembly are secure and torqued to spec without any loose bolts.
BUT the rod itself seems to shift about a 1/2" between these two connecting points.
Question: Could THIS be the problem? With this type of 1/2" shift in the rod is it possible it can recreate the dull metallic grinding I'm hearing so much?
I have a Mazda MX3 V6 it's a 1994, anyways the cars starts and runs fine, you can rev it up and it don't stall sputter or anything, but as soon as you put it in gear it dies, just seeing what may be going on with it. Also I just put a new IAC vavle on the car. don't think that has anything to do with it, but this is the 1st time I have ever worked on a mazda, and just as a side note, the car ran good for about 2 days after the install of the IAC.
View 2 RepliesI've traced a 0.3-amp parasitic drain to the audio power amp (fuse #16, 20A). Pulling the fuse, the radio still works (it's on fuse #15) but then there's no sound from the speakers. (There's also no current drain. I'm weighing if it's more important for the truck to run or to sound good.)
I replaced the radio a month ago. It was definitely not working right, and the new radio definitely is. With the #16 fuse in place, the sound out of front and back speakers was great. "Was" because if I leave the fuse in, the battery gets drained in a few days, so the fuse is now out.
Where the audio amp is. My Haynes manual doesn't say. The amp has no user controls. It just takes the radio's output and feeds audio to the front and back speakers. The #16 fuse is what gives the amp power. Some online posts say it's under the glove box, some say behind the rear right speaker. All agree it's a bear to access.
So a few questions:
Why the power amp would be drawing current even when the truck and radio are powered off?
How does one troubleshoot this, short of replacing the power amp, which of course I don't have an extra lying around and wouldn't want to replace anyway as it's otherwise working great.
What do you think of installing a switch on the audio power amp circuit so that when the truck is parked, I switch it off, and no current drain, but when the truck is driven, I switch it on, letting me hear the radio or CD. This is obviously a kludge/ghetto solution, but the advantage is that I don't have to access or replace the audio amp. I want to keep using the fuse, of course, so am looking for a way to wire a switch into the fuse box while keeping the fuse in the circuit. If I knew which wire goes between the fuse and the audio amp, I'd splice a switch there, but I don't, and again, the Haynes manual is not useful.
1994 B4000, extended cab, bought in 1996....
When the car is idling or running in low speed when i power up or down the windows the car begins to vibrate. Mazda 626 year 2001.....
View 5 RepliesI recently had $1600+ of work done on my 2005 Mazda 3 (L4 2.0L). R&R Head Gasket and Thermostat and Coolant Temperature sensor replaced. Since then it's been idling roughly. This was NOT occurring prior to the work. Mechanic says it needs a couple of weeks to "sync"? Does this makes sense? I'm wondering if they did something wrong to cause the problem.
View 9 RepliesAbout two weeks ago I noticed the engine idle start to hesitate but ONLY while idling. I was sort of leaning towards the distributor cap or rotor but that didn't add up because in the past when either of these would go out the car would just die without any warning whatsoever. So I just kept driving it and then tonight when I started the engine it was hesitating a lot more than it had been and also hesitating during acceleration but would smooth out after I would reach and maintain 40mph. The CEL also started flashing on and off. I went ahead and replaced all the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor with no improvement. Tomorrow I plan to replace the plug wires. The code it's sending is P0302 (misfire cylinder 2). If the plug wire doesn't do the trick and I can't find any leaks on the intake I'm going to try to figure out how to inspect the ignition coil (well, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out since I have two different shop manuals for this car.)
Another possibility for P0302 is low engine compression but I seriously doubt that's the problem because last time I checked the compression all 4 cylinders had above average compression. I doubt the plug wire is going to fix it since the wires only have about 20k miles on them and I don't think I have any leaks on the intake so where else I should look? Oh yeah, just remembered. I also put a stethoscope (actually a screwdriver) against the fuel injector for cylinder number 2 and it was clicking away just like the other 3 injectors so I guess the injector isn't the problem unless it can be faulty and still make the clicking noise. So should I check the injector with a meter or is the clicking enough evidence that it's working fine?
Mazda CX-7 sport that has rough idling when it is started and goes away when warmed up or driven. Is giving OBDII error code P0300 - multiple misfires. Where should I start looking?
View 3 RepliesI inherited a 1994 Mazda B2300 Pick Up 5 speed with just over 100K miles. Problem is the temp. gauge will just barely move off "C" at full tilt on a summer day. Confirmed the temp gauge was right. Replaced the thermostat and flushed out the system and heater core. Hoses are "warm". Cardboard over the radiator will push the temp. up to the middle after 20 minutes on freeway. Next checked the fan clutch. No dice. The fan spins free and can be stopped by hand. So, what else is "open" allowing too much coolant flow?
View 4 RepliesMy Mazda MPV will stall at slow speeds, such as if I am turning a corner or slowing down at a stoplight. Sometimes it starts back up once I put it into park, but other times it takes a few minutes of trying/resting before it will start up. One day, I am afraid it won't start up at all again. I just got new spark plugs and recently got a new mass airflow thingy put in. Check engine light does not come on for this.
View 2 RepliesMy 2004 Mazda MPV with just over 200,000 miles, started experiencing slow warm-up (during warm weather) approximately 5,000 miles ago. Shortly thereafter, I noticed slowly increasing coolant loss. The coolant loss was diagnosed as a cracked radiator, and, while a new radiator was being installed and the system flushed, I had the original thermostat replaced at the same time. The repairs cured the coolant loss problem, and for a short while the car seemed to warm up normally. However, once the weather turned cold, I started experiencing very slow engine warm-up and also have a minimal amount of heat, even after the temp gauge indicates that the engine is up to operating temperature. The rear heater is experiencing the same minimal amount of heat even after the engine is up to temperature.
View 7 RepliesWhen I rev the engine it momentarily goes down to below normal idling speed (sometimes it completely shuts off)then goes up to normal idle. I have found that if I press the throttle too hard before it recovers it always shuts off.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1994 V6 Chevrolet Camaro with ~197K miles. Recently I have noticed that after starting the engine it idles rougher than normal and also as I accelerate, especially between 45 and 65 mph. Several things have just been replaced and/or fixed: spark plugs, spark plug cables, oil, coil packs, water pump, & thermostat. I regularly use premium gasoline and when for some reason a lower octane is used I add an octane booster. Since this problem arose I tried a fuel system cleaner; it hasn't worked thus far. The last time something like this happened, I took my Camaro to a trusted repair shop and when being diagnosed its' cylinder chambers and many different lines flooded with fuel. After replacing the fuel regulator my car returned to normal.
View 4 Replies2003 Maxda 6 automatic transmission with 167k miles and in the past 2 days has been slow to move forward when placed in the drive position. Only happens when first starting after sitting cold all night and after sitting all day after work. The fluid level is good and clean with no "burnt" smell nor signs of metallic particles. Are the bands getting loose? If so, are they adjustable without removing transmission? Do they have to be replaced and at what cos? Is there another issue occurring?
View 4 Replies