My cooling fan races more than it used to. The coolant level appears to be fine. Could it be a faulty sensor and where is it located and is it something I can replace myself? The engine temp gauge reads in the mid range so the system isn't overheating.
View 1 RepliesMy '06 SC has about 72k miles and I've notice of late after starting it, it initially idles at about 1,200 RPM and tends to stay there until after driving and warmed up and then goes down. It used to start up at 1,200 RPM and after a very brief period of time would settle at 1,000 or 800 RPM, I can't recall exactly. My question is, is this normal related to the life of the engine, or do I have a sensor or other type of issue that can be addressed.
View 12 RepliesI've had my Scion xb since 22,000 miles. It's now 127,000 miles and I am having the first big issue.....or maybe. My husband thinks that it's something simple and an easy fix like a relay. We drove it on the highway in the morning and intermittently throughout the day, parked it for 3 hours and then started driving again. Three lights came on VSC, Check Engine, Trac Off and then it started accelerating slower than usual up hills and idling extremely low. We stopped and checked the oil level - at the 1/2 way mark and not due for a change yet. Feels like it might stall - it hasn't yet. It definitely climbs hills much slower than it has in the past but this is nerve-wrecking - especially when there are no mechanics working on the weekend.
View 6 RepliesMy 06 Prius seems to be a little louder than usual when the motor is running. What could be going on? Just had the hybrid battery, water pump and belt replaced, but it still seems to be making the same noise.
View 2 RepliesAs I am driving everything goes dead radio, windows, dash, alarms, everything then turns on a usually 30 seconds later. is it a ground? is it a sensor that's getting to warm? is it a loose wire? where should I start??
View 6 RepliesMy son has a 2001 Forester that's engine will from time to time suddenly rev up while driving on the highway as if the clutch was suddenly disengaged. The clutch only has about 20,000 miles on it and there is no burned clutch smell. What else could this be?
View 7 RepliesI live in a community with a posted speed limit of 15 mph. I travel a full minute at 15 mph before I exit the community to a city street. My 2013 Accent Hatchback won't "glide" along at 15 mph. It jerks and surges and races and slows down. I've tried using the manual option and keeping it in 1st gear however, when I reach the 1st gear tachometer limit at 15 mph the car "stalls" and the tachometer needle drops out and the car slows to 5 mph.
View 3 RepliesI'm working on a 93 thunderbird with a 3.8 in it and no check engine lights are on.The engine races at about 2500 rpm in neutral, I changed out the TPS but the idle still was way too high.
My first thought was a vacuum leak and I did find one hose that was rotted away. I then tested for vacuum leaksby spraying some brake cleaner around the intake and all the lines and fittings, but the engine stayed at a constant rpm.
My next guess is the Throttle Air bypass valve.
I have a Prius 2005 with an Engineer 4kwh kit installed [v4 bms]. Lately, I have experienced several instances where the Prius suddenly looses much of it's traction power and the engine races, and the red triangle and engine service lights go on at the dashboard. This happens with the kit turned on, and often after a few kit on/off cycles to get more ev mode. The Prius battery is sometimes low, sometimes not, when this happens. Not sure if it also occurs with the kit off.
The Prius seems to retain some traction power up-down by the throttle pedal, but most power goes missing. On the other hand the engine races and does not seem to power the wheels or vary by throttle. When I pull off the road using brakes normally, and turn off the car/engine and restart [kit now off], the car seems to reset and can resume driving normally, but the error code lights [triangle-engine] lights stay on.
I had this problem a few times in the past. Sometimes my 1992 Buick Century will shut off for no apparent reason while idling. When I restart it, the engine will race for a few seconds before slowing down to normal idle speed. Could this be caused by a glitch in the car's computer?
View 5 Repliesit can be 2* outside here in the winter and my fan will kick on even right after a cold start.
my rad. the fan kicks on and off randomly for some reason, when it does it makes my idle jump up a few hundred RPM's at the same time. it can be 20 sec. after I start my car, from a cold start, or anytime. AC is not on, as I leave it on the economy. this is in a 2006 A3 3.2 (not that it should matter)
are there any common issues that I should check? fan switch? or any other sensor that might be the cause?
I have a 2006 Passat 3.2 and a while back, I noticed that it would take the AC a very long time to cool, once it got temp down, it was fine. I checked low pressure and it is just perfect. I noticed, once car would cool down, and one gets to read light, after being stopped again, ac tends to get warmer. AC fan seems to be running fine and no errors on Computer. Miles 105,000
View 3 Replies2006 SD 5.4 born in WY so the AC was probably used a lot. 126k. The system is charged. The clutch gap was too wide and when I took the ac clutch off, and there was only one spacer in there. I removed the spacer and then my gap was too small. Without the spacer the clutch would come on for 2 seconds then go off for about 20.
At this point I still suspected the spacing, so this time I took the spacer and ground it down with my grinder (verry delicately). I put it back together and the spacing is better. The clutch now cycles on for several seconds longer than before, then turns off. Firmly pressing the clutch with a dowel does nothing at all.
With the gauges on the system, when the clutch is engaged pressure builds to the yellow caution zone (45+psi) then the clutch disengages and the pressure drops. There is no noticeable cooling in any of the above situations. Could my clutch be shot? Could my clutch be bad?
I have a 2007 Sonata and It recently lt began to blow hot air out of one side and freezing cold out the other side. Took it to the dealer and the technician said he didn't know what was wrong but recommended that the system be evacuated and refilled at a cost of 281.00. Actually, what he said is that the compressor is either overfilled or underfilled.
View 16 RepliesI'm working on 07sonata 2.4. The cooling fan is always on when key is on. I used to be a hyundai tech and remembered seeing something about the engine room fuse box and I have access to wiring diagrams. So in essence you go to connector jc01 pin 2 pink and connector je01 pin 25 pink. Cut the wires and connect them together bypassing the fusebox all together. But that didn't work this time. One thing I discovered is that if I touch my power probe to the heatsink of the fan control module I have battery voltage available. I first discovered this because I was removing said module and my 10mm touched it when it slipped a touch.
Is this 'hot' heatsink evidence of a shorted module? No codes in system. Ect tests good when hot and cold. A/c is not commanded on. Being that I used to be a tech for Hyundai I also know the engine fuse box can be touchy as well...
Was just on a trip (about 200 miles or so each way) and the AC worked just fine.
Car has sat for a few days unused.....when I used it to day, the AC blows warm...doesnt cool at all.
I hooked up a gauge to the low pressure side and the pressure reads very high (in the red zone of the gauge).....
Cant tell if the compressor is kicking on or not when the car is running...
Car is 600 miles out of warranty (of course).
I have an 06 Passat 2.0T, and last night whenever I shut off the car, the cooling fan is constantly running. I had to unplug the battery so it wouldn't drain it, and about 5 hours later, I hooked it up and it stays off. I also noticed when turning on the air conditioning, the smaller fan doesnt kick on. I'm lost and don't know where to start. Could it be a thermal switch or the whole fan assembly
View 19 RepliesI notice a high pitch squeal when I turn off the car ignition and is synced with the slowing of the engine cooling fan. I don't notice any significant engine noise while the car is fully running in idle. Does this indicate that bearings are going bad in the electric engine fan assembly? If so, would the noise alone be justification for getting a warranty replacement by the dealer or would they need a total fan failure in order to get it replaced under warranty at no cost. If not, think its worthwhile to replace the fan module myself to avoid imminent failure?
2009 Sonata GLS (NF) 50k Mileage
When it's really hot out and I'm highway cruising my ac stops cooling for about 5 seconds when I let off my gas to slow down then I feel a small nudge and it's cold again.....
View 4 RepliesI own a 2006 Prius with 52k miles on it. Great car BTW. The problem is simple, the radiator cooling fans stopped working on high mode; they run around 25% only even, not removing the heat from the a/c evaporator and the radiator coolant. I checked fuses: OK, checked relays: OK. They spin freely and nothing is blocking the front face of the evaporator. Funny I noticed it when I started hearing the a/c compressor buzzing noise and then I realized the fan noise wasn't there!
View 7 Replies08 Lexus GS350. Drove car Christmas Eve everything was fine, Christmas morning I go to start the car and it attempts to start once and before it cuts on it stops. Then anytime afterwards when I push the start button the starter doesn't engage and the radiator cooling fan comes on. I let the car sit for half a day and try to start it again I get the same cycle (it engages the starter but quits before the car turns over)...
- Battery is new as of September 14 (also took the battery to get checked 100% charged).
- I replaced the alternator in November 14
- I currently have the car at my mechanics but they can't figure it out as of yet. So far they are saying that the can't the cars computer to respond to their machine.