Mazda - Mpv :: 2005 - Sputtering And Dying At Red Lights When Trying To Accelerate
Nov 21, 2011
My van (Mazda MPV 2005) has been sputtering while driving for a while. Now I am dying at redlights when trying to accelerate after I have driven longer than a quick trip. I have had 4 mechanics work on my van and all of them, in the end, shrug their shoulders and tell me that they don't know what the problem is.
The first thing (seemed unrelated at the time) was a PCV hose replaced along with 2 coils.
A few months later the engine light came on (now it stays on) and the code reads P2179 (Fuel system too lean at off idle [left bank]) So then, the Idle Air Control Valve was replaced. I had the third mechanic replace the Air Mass Meter Boot and 2 days later the problem came back. He checked the MAF sensor which was good and he gave it back and told me he didn't know what it could be. Lastly, I took it to a dealership and they thought it was the Lower Intake Manifold Gasket, which got replaced. They also checked the O2 sensor, it is good. Within a couple of days I noticed the problem was still there. I also had a friend who is a mechanic pull out the fuel pump and it was in working order.
To top it all off, I now hear an odd "boing boing boing" coming from underneath my van when I have driven the van for a while and park.
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I Purchased a used 2005 . Everything was great all weekend long, but this morning, the car started shaking as I was driving it down the road. I drove my 55 mile commute, parked and took my son in to preschool. The shaking started when I left the school. As I was driving (around 45 mph, accelerating to 55 on flat road), the car had some definite shaking like a sputtering shake, but there was no sputtering noise.
No engine lights are on. Could this be a balancing issue rather than an engine issue? Or possibly a joint? Do these cars even have a flex joint?
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I'm having some serious trouble with a 2000 4Runner with the 5FVZFE V-6 with 165,000mi. The engine is bogging down/ sputtering and dying on startup, won't drive over apx. 20-30mph, doesn't seem to want to shift up or down, and won't rev past 3000rpms, stopped or driving. I've been a mechanic for awhile and never seen this issue before. But here's the kicker... I'm in bfe Afghanistan, have almost no access to parts (if I do it takes quite awhile to get them and even the easy stuff is hard to find), no diagnostic comp, and only the tools in my toolbox, air compressor, and solvent tank.
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2005 prius battery is not charging . Then check engine light /problem light came on . The vehicle started sputtering and would not accelerate over 25 mph.
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Yesterday while driving to work I noticed my car sputtering when I began to accelerate and then the CEL came on. Well it did it some more yesterday afternoon but after sitting for about 7 hours while I was at work I drove it home last night without any issue. Then this morning drove around running errands and not one sign of sputter at all.
Stopped by the Kia dealership and they read the code which I believe was 306 and they said it was showing the number 6 cylinder misfiring/spark plug/wire problem. They said it could be a bad plug or wire or coil but wouldn't know till they looked at it which they will in about a week. But still driving and no signs of any sputter. What might have caused the temp sputter and code and how do I reset the CEL to see if the code goes off again?
Car: 2002 Kia Sedona Milage: 147,000Eng: 6 cylinder
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I recently bought a 06 GX470 w/ 70k miles and noticed vibrations/sputtering when i accelerate during a turn. For example when you back out of a parking space, turn your wheels all the way and go. It happens when i turn right and left.
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I have a 2001 Mercury Cougar 2.5l v6 with 142,000 miles. If I'm in idle, you can feel it discordantly kind of jumping. Guessing it's coming from the engine. When I accelerate, normally from 35-45 mph the engine sputters and is very jerky but then accelerates as normal. I am going through gas more than before. I've replaced the spark plugs and wires and it hasn't fixed.
It runs worse when my AC is on, guessing because it's more stress on the engine. don't know if it's relevant but I have a signal on my dashboard that shows how many miles I have left to drive with the amount of gas I currently have - and it's become way off, is totally inaccurate now. I also know I need an oil change.
Don't know a whole lot about cars, but I can't afford to have my car become out of commission. What the problem would be? The last mechanic I saw said it needs a tune up, but it was expensive so I've been trying things myself first.
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2006 F150 FX4 5.4L, 118k miles... At highway speeds (45-50) and (55-60) as I am slightly accelerating it feels like the transmission or maybe ignition system is skipping a beat. Kind of feels like a small bump. I replaced spark plugs with motocraft about 35K miles ago and recently all transmission fluid via cooler line. Had some concerns about system flush so I just drained and refilled entire system via cooler lines. I have read that it could be my COP's ...
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I have a 99 Mazda Protege LX. That is only overheating when I accelerate too hard. Like getting on the the highway. I have replaced the radiator and the thermostat and also got the system flushed, but it is still overheating!
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I own a automatic 2002 Mazda Protege with about 167,000 miles on it. The other day I was at a stop light and when I accelerated it felt like the car was taking longer than normal to get into gear. I am scared that it may be a transmission problem.
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I googled my symptom and came across an old post that sounds exactly like my issue, except that my car is an automatic with 98k miles. What could it be? Should I go to Autozone or similar to get a computer diagnostic check or bring it straight to a mechanic?
I have a 2001 mazda protege lx w/ aprox 120,000 miles manual transmission. for the past few days I've noticed a change in how it shifts & i fear its getting worse. it feels like it has low power/acceleration, when i apply the gas it seems to over rev (higher than usual rpms) in order to accelerate.
I also noticed going 70 mph on cruise control today, i tapped te cruise control to increase speed another 1mph or so & it over-revved in order to accelerate only another mph (jumped a couple thousand rpms & made revving noise it did used to do for only a slight increase in speed, then once it catches it goes back normal rpms or aprox 3000) which kind of mirrors what it feels like it needs me to do to increase speed when not on cruise control. i push the gas slightly & it doesn't seem to accelerate as well so i have push harder & it revs more than it should before it catches & increases speed sort of like normal.
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So my 02 Camry le keeps dying after I start it up, I thought it was a battery/alternator problem but when I installed both of em in the problem was still there. There was no check engine light on and as long as I keep my foot on the throttle and not let it idle down low it stays on but if I don't it dies right away. I'm getting really tired of trying to figure it out so a buddy of mine said it could be a bad TPS sensor.
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I have 1997 Mazda 626 I4 5 speed manual transmission with 140k on it.
All of a sudden I am getting a horrible reoccurring vibration and noise that sounds like I'm driving on a rumble stripe at about 60MPH coming from the front end when accelerating.
It speeds up as I accelerate.If I push down my clutch or let off the gas it goes away immediately. While turning right it will go away immediately until I straiten it back out.It happens in any gear at any speed in any weather although it seems more likely to happen when everything is cold.It isn't always there and there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to when it happens or clears up.
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2004 Mazda M3 . My auto is making grinding sounds at first-slow speed until it accelerates. It has 70,000+ miles.What could this be? What should-could be done for this concern.
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I have Toyota Camry 2005 LE, 151.000 miles ( first owner) ... Few months back I noticed that my Camry is sputtering on low RPM below 2000 ( but never when engine is cold ).... Car is driving perfect on the highway but in the city sputtering get very annoying when on low RPM and high gear.
My remedy for that is to press overdrive off. button after this sputtering always goes away.
I checked spark plugs they look clean, I changed PCV valve, oxygen sensors, I clean mass air flow sensor, new throttle body was installed 2 years ago, new catalytic converter a year ago. There are no OBD codes ...
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My sons 05 F150 is randomly dying during low idle. We removed and cleaned the TB and cleaned the MF sensor. For example, if he is coming up to a stop or slowing down, the truck will die, but starts right back up. So far no CEL and truck seems to idle and run fine, just ever so often will die.
Anything to check on the 5.4s
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I have a 2006 Mazda 6 that ive owned for a year now. It has this random problem tho.... when accelerating into 4th gear it makes a horrendous racket like the bottom is falling out of the car or something and sorta jerks. it has been doing this a long time. other than that it drives fine! i have no mechanical knowledge about cars so im totally clueless! this seems to happen when accelerating on an incline.
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I brought this 2005 Camry last March of 2013. It has an faulty engine computer rendering vehicle inoperable and useless. It died in the middle of traffic not too long ago, and I almost was t-boned. Then it died in the middle of the turn lane and I had to restart it three times to get it to a repair shop where they reflashed the engine computer. Now today, May 25th, it did it again! Right after I pulled out of my driveway it died on the road. I was not on Highway 94 otherwise I would have been rear-ended.
I believe there is a TSB on a faulty engine computer for the 2005 to 2006 Toyota Camry and it should be covered under emissions warranty and this is a serious safety issue, I almost had my car smashed up the first time! Until this problem is fixed, I wouldn't feel comfortable taking it out on a roadtrip. Right now I have a 9 grand paperweight in my driveway, and in fact my 1996 F-150 has been much more reliable than this Camry. I don't want this to drag on for a week, if its not covered under emissons warranty/by Toyota, I will just order a used engine computer and install it.
I am going to order a engine computer and see if the problem goes away. When it died the second time, I had to restart three or four times to get back to my driveway where I left car.
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Trying to figure out whether to fix or scrap our 2005 Prius with 193,000 miles and a mysterious 12V battery problem. What would you do in my situation?
We've had a recurring problem with the 12V accessory battery: I have replaced it myself three times. The last failure was the most mysterious, because after replacing the 12V battery for the third time, I conducted nearly daily voltage tests using the Prius' "secret" vehicle signal check. Voltage coming off of the 12V was normal, if not high the entire time in all of the Prius's various starting and ready modes. I wired up a solar panel to trickle-charge the 12V battery when we weren't around, and we plugged the 12V in at night to a trickle charger to keep the battery topped up.
Nonetheless the day came a few months after the latest replacement when we had our usual 12V failure symptoms: the time on the clock started resetting, the car didn't turn on on the first press, the Prius computer rebooted, and eventually the car wouldn't start without a jump start. This has been super-frustrating, and googling around, I haven't been impressed by people's reported experiences trying to have the dealer try to resolve such problems. My worry is that a dealer repair person will change the accessory 12V battery without fixing the underlying problem. I would suspect a parasitic draw somewhere, but voltage tests when the car was overnighted without any kind of charging did not suggest a serious voltage draw on the 12V battery.
Other details about the car: our keyless entry hasn't worked for several years (dead batteries in the key fob?) and we open the car manually using the key each time. We stick the fob in the slot each time we want to start it. MPG is comparatively low vs. other Priuses, perhaps 44-45 MPG, and lower when the 12V battery starts to die (37-40). I have had the car serviced (oil, etc.) like clockwork every three months; recently, I've noticed the engine is starting to burn oil a bit (level is reported low on each change).
Most of the driving has been done in the flats and the heat of California's Central Valley, and we've put something like 120,000 miles on it just in the last five years. Besides the fact that the 12V battery keeps dying, the car has been very reliable.
We just inherited a free Prius with just 60,000 miles on it, and I have a 1993 Camry with 150k miles on the chassis and maybe 60k miles on the replacement engine I had dropped into it a few years ago. The Camry just passed California's smog test and seems to be running well. We don't want or need three cars.
Our choice is to try to fix the Prius with 193k miles on it and donate the Camry (which gets about 20 miles to the gallon, the horror...), or keep the Camry and donate the Prius. My instinct is to not drop thousands of dollars into the high-mileage Prius, especially if these issues might be pointing to a dying main battery.
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In the last 15k miles, I've replaced the led lights on my driver side mirror twice already, and come to see this morning: they are out again. The turn signal LEDs still work, but the parking lights don't work anymore. Passenger side is fine.
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For the past month or so, my 2002 Kia Sedona has been stalling/dying whenever I stop at lights or signs. We've gotten the alternator fixed, gotten a new battery, replaced the ignition coils, but still have the same problem. A friend of mine says that there is probably an issue with the idle air control valve and suggests I replace it. Looking online, it seems like I can possibly just clean it out, but I don't know where to begin. Where exactly is the IAC valve and is replacing/cleaning it a basic DIY job?
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