Mazda - Mpv :: 1998 - Hard To Start When Engine Warmed Up
Jul 2, 2012
Been having this problem since this past Easter when our mechanic installed new valve cover gaskets.
When the van is hot (normal operating temperature) and you turn it off just for a minute, like to get gas, and try and restart it acts like it’s not getting enough gas. It will cough and sputter and balk. It will finally start though and after 30 second all will calm down and it will run fine.
One big problem is, is that is intermittent – meaning it won’t mess up for the mechanic and putting it on the computer shows nothing wrong.
One mechanic said it was a cracked distributor. Replaced that for $400. and same problem. I’ve also cleaned the Mas Air Flow sensor and changed the fuel filter.
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I have issues with engine starting when cold outside or after rain. This only happens when engine is cold and has not been started for a day or 2. Distributor cap does not have any condensation inside but does seem to corrode on contact points. Engine turns over fine, has fuel and spark. When this happens engine will not fire and after awhile it will start to fire and lock up when it fires then continue cranking. After repeated attempts it will start and run fine, can be shut off and start right back up with out any issues. It could take a few tries to a few hours of trying before running though. I'm leaning toward a distributor or timing issue. Am I on the right track? 98 Suburban K1500 5.7L ....
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Why doesn't my 98 Ford Crown Vic Police package turn over when it is hot outside and the car is hot? Winter time, I never have the issue. When the outside temp hits the upper 70s or more, and I drive for a little bit, turn the car off it will not start or even turn over. The lights come on like normal. I wait 15-30 minutes, it fires right up. I have replaced the starter/solenoid, battery, battery terminals, ignition relay.
98 crown vic police-4.6 liter Coil-on-plug,electronic timing,182,000 miles
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0L. That is Having trouble starting after it is warmed up. Ive been told multiple things it could be but the one ive been told the most is the Stand pipe or dummy plug in the oil rail having a small leak. Is this correct? Or is there something else i need to Check??
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I have a 1998 Mazda Protege LX 1.5 L 4 Cylinder and i have been having some starting issues, and stalling at stop lights.
To be clear i have replaced/cleaned, Injectors, Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires, Distributor Cap, Distributor Coil, Air Filter, Cleaned MAF, Cleaned the EGR Valve,
My car won't start in the morning, just gives cranks but if I press gas pedal it starts and have to keep it until engine gets hot enough. then it works till the car cools down again, and repeat the problem in the morning when I have to go to work. When the car is warm it starts fine but has idle issues regardless of temperature. As usual when the engine is cold or cool, it won't start.
Visited 2 different mechanic shops and the problem still exist, I don't know how and what they did it, it only worked for couple of months and the engine noise was bit high, I believe he just increased the idle, When i am at stop lights it has a rough idle and tries to die, When it idles it idles rough, Every once in a while I get a CEL Cylinder Misfire on cylinder 4. I'm confused on want to do , Don't know what else to do and its getting tiring, The car also feels like a lack of power.
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While driving my car on the highway the engine died on me. I made several attempts to start the car again with no success. The mechanic has yet to find what the problem is. He has checked the timing belt, fuel pump, and everything else.
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The alternator belt recently broke off on my Mazda Protege and by the time I was able to drive it to my local Mazda dealer to have the belt replaced the engine was completely dead. I drove the car about 12 miles after the alternator belt broke. I noticed as I was driving to the dealer that my heater was not working; the fan was working but it would only blow cold air. I know that the alternator belt also controls the water pump, so I tried to keep my engine rpm's below 2000 while driving to avoid overheating the engine. On the way to the dealer the temperature gauge on the dashboard increased to about halfway between cold (C) and (H), which is where it usually sits after the engine warms up.
The belt was replaced, but I have noticed that ever since then the temperature gauge always sits at "C" and the engine never warms up. The heater continues to not produce any warm air. In addition, I have felt the engine with my hand after driving for about 20 minutes, and although it feels warm, it is not nearly as hot as it should be. I suspect that the engine cooling system is continually working for some reason, instead of allowing the engine to warm to its optimal operating temperature and then maintaining the temperature at that level. Because this coincided with my alternator belt breaking, I suspect that the root of the problem is either electrical in nature or associated with the water pump somehow. However, I don't know enough about cars to figure it all out.
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Got a 2004, Mazda 6i, 2.4LT, Manual, 140K miles
Car has been acting weird from past one week or 10 days. Outside temperature is around 25- 40 Fahrenheit.
I park my car in my home garage. It started fine in garage in morning, drove to work and parked in open parking lot for about 8 hours. Evening it did not start in the first try, it started at 4th time. I thought it might be weather and battery.
Next day morning it started fine in garage at 2nd start. Same problem in evening it would start at 4-5th time. Then I looked at my car battery and it was installed 2 years ago 3/2014.
I went to Walmart where my car battery was installed and they tested and said it is fine and has no problem with car battery. Just to make sure I took to nearby autozone they said that car battery is fine.
Over the weekend I left my car in our garage and was starting it every day morning to make sure if its working fine. It started fine and left it ON for about 45 minutes, everything is fine.
Today Sunday evening the weather outside was good around 55F. Went to some store for grocery shopping and returning back it started at 4th time.
When ignition key is turned ON, all the lights on dash board,radio,lights are fine and when I turn on the car it does not give any sound ( no cranking or anything) it was completely dead.Took the key out and waited for 5 minutes and tried again, with little cranking sound it started at 3rd try.
Took car to autozone for free testing and they said Car battery is good and when they asked me to start the car,it again did not start first time. They jump started my car and it started.
They are suspecting it might be alternator. What baffles me is why does the car start in 2nd try when parked in garage over night and does not start when parked outside in parking for about 45 minutes.
(Starter was replaced for the above car 2 years ago).
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The check engine light is blinking on my 98 Mazda Protege. I'd like to purchase one of those little hand held computers so that I can diagnose the problem myself. Should I leave it up to the professionals?
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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I'm in the process of changing the coolant on my 98 Mazda Protege LX. I have the radiator drained and rinsed out. Now I want to get the rest of the coolant out. Where the engine block drain plug is on this car? My Haynes manual shows a picture of the location but It's of a different model.
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I have a Mazda 3 5-door and I believe it is a 2010 model year, with between 50k-70k miles. I've been, I believe, consistent with regular maintenance schedules, and this is the first issue I've had, and I've been having it for a bit of time now (a few weeks). I've tried various things to try and understand the issues that bring it up.
First, I don't remember if this started before or after, but my "Check Engine" light popped on. I brought it in to have the code read and it was the one for the gas cap not being on properly. The person reset the diagnostic code, tightened the cap, and I went on my way.
A few hours later it came back. Okay, but that's not the issue, and I mention it only because of the other things I've observed.
The real problem is, after I've been driving for "awhile" at highway speeds, and I add fuel, the car has a very difficult time starting. I have to really press the accelerator down to get it to start, and even then it can take a good 5 seconds of holding the key to "start".
Things I've noticed:- If I fill up at the start of a trip, so that the car hasn't been running long, I can fill up and the car starts immediately.- I thought it might be a problem with fuel spilling over into the overflow, so I've added less fuel (so I ended with the needle pointing between 3/4 and full) but it still had trouble starting- After I start it, it runs rough for a bit and I feel like I have to rev it to keep it from stalling, though I haven't left it to idle to see if it actually will stall.- After the difficult start, if I drive as little as down a city block, turn the car off, and back on, it has no trouble starting, nor does it stutter like it does when I fill it up.- If I take a long drive but don't add any fuel, it starts up right away.
I've always used 87 octane fuel, which seems to work fine, and I feel as though that's the recommended grade, isn't it? I also try to fill it up when the needle reads 1/4 of a tank or a bit more, but I do notice that, if I allow the pump to auto-shutoff the car will accept 9-10 gallons (and I thought it was a 10.5 gallon tank, which is less than 1/4 left... I'm not sure how bad that is...)
What it could possibly be? Or even additional tests I could try to narrow it down?
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Mazda CX-7 sport that has rough idling when it is started and goes away when warmed up or driven. Is giving OBDII error code P0300 - multiple misfires. Where should I start looking?
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I know this issue has been posted and discussed multiple times on early Gen 3 Prius'. That said, I don't see much on it regarding the Prius v ( lowercase v for the Prius v wagon, not an uppercase ). There is also of course a TSB for earlier Prius' that had the issue.
I can readily replicate the issue in that almost every time I 'think' it may happen the next time I start the vehicle, it does in fact do so.
If I move the vehicle from the garage to the driveway or around in the driveway to clear snow, the ICE fires for a few seconds then I shut it off as the car is where I need it. Upon the next ICE start, there is a horrible knocking under the hood somewhere. Different from the previous messages and the TSB itself is that I never get an error code or MIL.
I'm to the point where if I move the car, I let it warm up completely. I figure I'm better off wasting fuel than subjecting my Prius to whatever horrible thing is happening under the hood if I don't.
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'92 Dynasty is a good runner, but, once the engine gets warmed up, I shut off the engine at my own risk. If the car sits for a while with the hood open, it will start again, but attempting to start immediately after shutting off will result in the engine spinning over but no sounds of attempted ignition. It seems that once the coil is cooled down to slightly more than body temp the engine will start like nothing was wrong.
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I need to have my DSG checked out.. Extremely jerky starting out in first gear when very hot out and engine warmed up --most noticeable when just easy on the accelerator. Need to get the ok for mechanotronic replacement. Who to trust for a reliable job and evaluation of the problem.
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My 98 cherokee sport(xj) 190k has always been reliable but now its hard to start. I must press on the gas pedal and rev it up so it doesn't die. Never has done this, after a few revs it seems find. Is my fuel pump bad.?
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I am having a problems with my intrigue... Hard to start when warm i checked the pressure reg vac hose found no fuel so im not sure if that is the problem. I have the 3800S11 engine. sometimes it will start when warm other times i need to push the gas a little to get it to start.
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The Sonoma is basically the same as a Chevy S-10. It has a 4.3L V-6, auto trans. and 148K miles.
About half the time it will crank and crank and crank before it finally starts. Other times it will start with the first cylinder to hit TDC. I have found that waiting with the key on until the security light goes out will SOMETIMES make a difference. If I don't wait for the light to go out, it always takes several attempts to start. I hope that symptom is not entirely in my mind. I don't think it will start at all if I just continue to grind on the starter. Doing it in 3-5 second bursts sometimes works, sometimes not. It does not seem to matter if it is the first start of the day, or after the engine is warmed up.
The fuel pump appears to have been replaced at some time as some idiot sawed a hole in the bed to do it rather than dropping the tank. There is no way to know how old the pump is, but I suspect they may have been fighting the same problem, and should be shot.
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When engine is cold it starts fine, when hot from driving (e.g. the engine's temperature display's needle is in the middle) i cannot start it unless i try 3-4 LONG keys. What can it be? Where should i start?
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Simple question: Is it possible that battery problem/corrosion in battery cables would allow car to crank but not start on first try when cold? (Car normally starts on 2nd or 3rd try). I've read some places that if car cranks its not a battery problem but I'm not convinced.
Background:I have a 98 Ford Mustang (approx 140,000 miles) that occasionally has trouble starting. Car normally takes 2 to 3 tries to start first thing in the morning or if it has been sitting for a while. It always cranks but doesn't turn over. I had it in the auto repair shop, they said it had to do with IAC valve being stuck open. They recommended to replace throttle air by-pass valve. The repair was done and when I came to pick up the car I heard it take three tries to start before they brought it to me from the back. I asked about it, so the service advisor said he would go and talk to the tech, he said he talked to the tech and that there was a lot of carbon that he had cleaned out and maybe remaining carbon in the system caused problem, I got the idea that they seemed to think everything was fine if I had any problems I could bring it back. The car became even harder to start, now taking up to 8 tries. I brought it back and they said that the new IAC had to be adjusted to allow more air. I picked up the car, they said it was fine, but now it still takes 2 to 3 tries to start it first thing in the morning.
In the past, I have had trouble with battery and battery terminal corrosion, have had new terminal ends put on my battery a few times, last time was probably about 6 months ago. Terminal ends look very corroded again. I'm thinking about just asking them to replace the battery cables and see what happens.
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