My car had just been filled with gas then right after I got on the interstate and while going about 60 mph, holding the accelerator at that speed, the car stated to decelerate on its own then it would go back to 60. When I got off and was going up ramp at about 15 mph the car started bulking violently. What could cause this to happen?
View 4 RepliesHow does one change the cabin air filter on a Mazda Millenia 1996?
View 3 RepliesHave a 95 Mazda Millenia - ran ok till plugs, cap & rotor changed - now it will barely idle & hesitates, coughs & spits until you get it up to 3K rpm - there and above it's smooth - below 3K it loads up & blows out black smoke (rich). What's wrong ?
View 1 RepliesMazda Millenia 1996-- Smell of gasoline & exhaust coming in when driving. When we open the hood - smell of gasoline. NO apparent gasoline leaks! Mechanic found fuel injector stuck open - replaced it. Worked a little better for a little while. It seemed to only smell for 5 minutes after starting the car instead of constantly. Mechanic changed the spark plugs. Worked a little better for a couple of hours. Now it's continuous smell of gasoline and exhaust.
View 7 RepliesThe problem that causes the check engine light to come on cannot be traced. The diagnosis is multi engine misfire. The dealer has checked and recheckedbut problem still exists. The last time my mechanic changed spark plugs he noticed oil on one of the plugs he removed in the rear side of the engine. He replaced the plug with the rest of them. Could it be that one or more of the spark plugs are sucking oil and causes the misfire? If so what could be the cause of that. Do I need a full tuneup? My dealer recommends replacing the cam shaft pulley because it's loose and this may or may not solve the problem. I'm not a mechanic but it appears as if the problem has something to do with the spark plugs sucking oil since the check engine light might go ou for a week or so and then come back on for a while. Lastly is it dangerous to keep driving the car especially on long trips?
View 1 RepliesSo I was driving on the FWY cruising around 70MPH when all of the sudden my car started to decelerate for no reason without me releasing the gas pedal. I am guessing its my fuel filter or fuel pump.
View 3 RepliesSo I filled up my tank tonight and started off home when the car started shuddering, not bad but shuddering and the CEL came on and blinked so I pulled over and shut the car off, waited a minute or two then turned it on, everything was fine and after a little longer the CEL turned off but turned back on again after 30 or so miles. The car is still running fine.
Do you think its the evap emissions valve? My wife said it shuddered a little when she filled up last week as well. Or it might be the coils? I have a warranty so its going in tomorrow anyway but I am going to drive it to work and drop it off.
My 06 mazda has recently started blowing smoke from the exhaust and jerking it self when accelerating.i have changed the spark plugs and i found one soaked with motor oil. The car only has 75000 miles on it....
View 1 RepliesMazda CX-7 sport that has rough idling when it is started and goes away when warmed up or driven. Is giving OBDII error code P0300 - multiple misfires. Where should I start looking?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Mazda 6 with 104k on it. The clutch started sticking a couple weeks ago right where it would engage into gear, and I'd have to use my foot to pop it back up. It only happened here and there until finally, it stuck to the floor and became very difficult, if not impossible, to get out of gear. So everywhere I looked, it seemed that the slave cylinder was the culprit. I got a new one at AutoZone, replaced it yesterday, and the car ran great last night and this morning.
Then, this afternoon, in one 10 mile trip, it went back to the original problem. Stuck with every gear change, then stuck to the floor after I pushed it in and darn near wouldn't come out of gear. What in the world could be the problem?
I have a 2011 Mazda 2, 1.5L w/automatic trans. The car only has 1800 miles on it. The other day i was driving it when the car started to lose power and then stalled out. I coasted to a stop. When I tried to restart the car it idled roughly and only in the 200-300rpm range. When I put in gear it would stall out. I let it sit for about 15 minutes and then was able to restart the car with no issue. Since then I put on another 40 miles with no problem.
Before the car stalled I had driven it for about 30 miles with the first 15 miles on the interstate. It was 100+ degrees outside and I was running the air. I have taken the car to the Mazda dealer but I am concerned that they will not be able to locate the problem since now the car seems to be running fine. What could be causing this problem?
A year 1/2 ago my wife's car (2008 Mazda Tribute) started acting funny.
The brakes started squeaking while driving, but as soon as the brakes were applied, the noise stopped. They also had a mild grinding sound. Not a metal on metal (aka no brake pads)...very superficial. Had to slam on the brakes and it activated the ABS (light did not come on) which caused the brakes to go to the floor.
Brought it in to the mechanic we always bring it to. They changed the pads and resurfaced the rotors. I KNOW they bought the cheapest aftermarket pads. I'm sure that and because the pads weren't deglazed (I'm assuming they didn't) is what is causing the noise.
Well...brakes worked fine. Months later had to slam on the brakes again. Again, ABS activated (no light came on), brakes went to the floor. A day later it was still going to the floor.Brought it back to the mechanic. They said nothing was wrong with the brakes, but they resurfaced the rotors. Brakes back to normal.
Happened again. Noises still there. Rotors resurfaced. I asked if the cheap aftermarket pads could be the problem. Of course the shop said no. Brakes went back to normal. Well, it happened again. Had to get on the brakes. and now they are almost going to the floor.
Brought it to a shop and they bled the brakes (not sure if they pulled the ABS fuse or not). Brakes are still spongy and go down far, but not as bad. Doesn't appear to be the brake booster (put foot on brake while car is off and brakes depress when car is started). Brought it to another mechanic (thinking it was the master cylinder) and he says he doesn't think it's the master cylinder, but an ABS problem.
I have a 2000 Mazda Protege ES, with about 120,000 miles. On February 14th, Valentine's Day, my car broke down and has not functioned since then. Here's what happened, I was driving the car when it started to shake. It continued to shake for about 5 minutes, then it stalled. I was able to start he car again and it began shaking worse than before. Then it stalled again and it has not run since then.
The mechanic I've been working with has tried a new CAM sensor, replaced the computer and checked some of the electrical wiring. But nothing has worked. It's been almost 4 months and I am eager to get my car functioning properly right again.
A few months ago my car started whining at highway speeds. The noise has increased in pitch and volume, and is not dependent on engine speed--in fact, if I turn the engine off and coast, the whine persists, lowering in pitch (and getting quieter) when the car slows down. Recently the car has also started vibrating when I turn slightly to the right, as when I change lanes on the highway or bank right on a long turn (sharp right turns from a full stop don't elicit any noise). Do I have a problem with my alignment? I notice my tire wear looks a bit uneven.
View 4 RepliesYesterday, I was dropping off a friend, and after a minute or so of being parked, when I started rolling forward again, this very loud, metal on metal screeching sound started coming from under my car, seemingly on the driver's side. I thought there was maybe something under the car, but I looked, and found nothing. When I tried to leave her street the noise got so loud I was scared and stopped again, and her neighbors came out because they heard it. Again, examination of the wheels, undercarriage, under the hood, it all looked normal. Turning the steering wheel didn't make the noise, but bouncing the hood made a slight squeak in the same area. So I parked it, and this morning had it towed to my mechanics. Of course, once it got there, they said it drove fine, they hear no noise, and saw nothing wrong with the brakes, tires, or axles. Basically, they think I'm crazy.It was lightly misting when this happened but not real rain or anything. The mechanic said they don't see any evidence that anything was stuck in there that might've gotten dislodged by the tow. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow, but is there anything I should have them check before that?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 Mazda Protege' which recently started losing power periodically. At the same time, the check engine light would blink and then stay solid. The dealer diagnosed a random engine misfire and replaced the spark plugs, wires, and coil packs. It cost $500.00. After 3000 miles, the problem has returned worse than before. This weekend it lost and regained power repeatedly in short spans of time, and lurched back and forth as it happened. The check engine light returned as well.
My first question: what do you think this is? My neighbor suspects a clogged fuel filter or fuel regulator.My second question: what, if anything, does the dealer owe me financially?
I have a 99 Mazda b3000 v6 that has recently started to stall whenever in idle. Check engine light is on and the following codes popped up (P0176, P0135,P0141, and P0155). I'm sure one of these codes has to be related to the problem but I am clueless when it comes to troubleshooting. Also it started stalling after I filled up the tank. Not sure if that has anything to do with it, check engine light was already on before that.
View 2 RepliesSo my 2016 S 4-Motion is coming up on 2400 miles. A little while back, I noticed that sometimes when I decelerate to or cruise btw 20-30mph there is an odd low whistling sound. But of course, not always. I haven't been able to identify any common factors other than the speed. It is the kind of sound you get from blowing over a bottle (for any musical types, it's a middle-C# regardless of speed), so I thought maybe it could be from some kind of gap where the roof rails are mounted because it sounds like it's coming from the passenger side roof. Didn't see anything out of the ordinary.
View 4 RepliesWhen I remove my foot from the accelerator, my '86 Land Cruiser makes a noticeable and resonating vibration. It generally occurs at deceleration from about 60-65mph or when I'm going down a hill, when I habitually feather the accelerator to regulate my speed regardless of the slope, and rattles the whole truck to the extent I can feel it through the back of the driver's seat. The truck has always had a certain looseness or slop in the driveline; if I'm not careful to feather the clutch release, the truck starts off in a herky-jerky motion. Yesterday, I was nosing around under the truck attempting to discover the source of the vibration. When I grasped the rear drive shaft (it has a second drive shaft for the front wheels), there is noticeable free-play of about 5-10 degrees in the shaft rotation. Is this normal for this truck?
View 6 RepliesI'm still getting the occasional "slam" as I decelerate from freeway speeds as the trans downshifts from 4-3. Service writer says VW is aware of the problem and are working on a TCM reflash.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2015 IS350 FSport. I drive full automatic in Sport+ mode, and I notice whenever I decelerate, the RPM would spike up around 200rpm and back to normal within second. It is consistently when the gears are changing down. Is this normal?
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