Mazda - Millenia :: 2002 - Check Engine Light On / Multiple Engine Misfire
Sep 8, 2013
The problem that causes the check engine light to come on cannot be traced. The diagnosis is multi engine misfire. The dealer has checked and recheckedbut problem still exists. The last time my mechanic changed spark plugs he noticed oil on one of the plugs he removed in the rear side of the engine. He replaced the plug with the rest of them. Could it be that one or more of the spark plugs are sucking oil and causes the misfire? If so what could be the cause of that. Do I need a full tuneup? My dealer recommends replacing the cam shaft pulley because it's loose and this may or may not solve the problem. I'm not a mechanic but it appears as if the problem has something to do with the spark plugs sucking oil since the check engine light might go ou for a week or so and then come back on for a while. Lastly is it dangerous to keep driving the car especially on long trips?
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I have a 1996 chevy caprice wit a 4.3 v-8 one day i was driving and the car started acting funny and the check engine lite started blinking i had the codes read and 0p300 came up saying multiple misfire so I changed the plug wires they all connect in the front around the harmonic balancer well that didn't work its still saying multi misfire so I took a spark plug wire off of the electric dis block and no change in motor now I don't know what to do...
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4 5.4. For a long time it idled poorly and would take 2 trys to start. Today it started shuddering and the engine light came on. The engine light went off but it still runs rough and smells of gas from the exhaust. It is not very drivable and I can't afford to take it in. I have lots of mechanical experience but not with this electronic junk and need diagnosing the problem. I have a code tester and this is what it said.
P0301 Cyl 1 Miss
P0304 Cyl 4 Miss
P0300 Random Multiple Misfire Detected
P2196 O2 Sensor Signal
Biased/ Stuck Rich
Bank 1 Sensor 1
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Mazda Millenia 1996-- Smell of gasoline & exhaust coming in when driving. When we open the hood - smell of gasoline. NO apparent gasoline leaks! Mechanic found fuel injector stuck open - replaced it. Worked a little better for a little while. It seemed to only smell for 5 minutes after starting the car instead of constantly. Mechanic changed the spark plugs. Worked a little better for a couple of hours. Now it's continuous smell of gasoline and exhaust.
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I have an 02 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L Flex . It had initially stalled and wouldn't start. Check engine light was on. Had it towed to a Cert Mech. He said it needed a "Major" tune-up. I let him do this. It included: New Coilpak, plugs, plug wires, cam-sensor, crank sensor. That's what was on 1st invoice.
It started, but was still running very rough. He then recommend a new PCM. After choking on his estimate, and paying the initial invoice, I decided to let someone else have at it. Mech # 2 installed a "Rebuilt" PCM, New Battery, and a PCV Valve.
It runs good now BUT, ...It has this weird idle Misfire. The only time it happens is at a stop light when at idle. And it doesnt do it all the time. This check engine light is not on... At this point, all I want to do is sell it.I have over 1K in repair costs and still can't get rid of this misfire.
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My 2002 Jetta GLS 2.0 is misfiring only when it rains out. I go to start the car and the car idles extremely rough and seems like it wants to die. I checked out the codes for the check engine light and I got misfire codes p0304 and p0300. Which is a general misfire detected, and misfire on cylinder 4. I noticed that when I misted the alternator during the day around 70 degrees with the car running the car would misfire and almost die out. I know you are not supposed to get the alternator wet, but keep in mind i did not soak it I misted water on it. I misted the coil pack and nothing happened. I replaced the spark plugs and wires a few days ago. But as soon as it rains my car does not idle right and the check engine light flashes.
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My check engine light came on the other day, with no symptoms or problems. Today I stopped at the Auto Parts store and had the codes read. They were P0440, P0441, P0446, and P0301. They are for the EVAP system and misfire.
I had read here that one of the codes could be for the gas cap so I tightened it and then, also as read on here, disconnected the negative 12 V battery cable to perhaps clear the check engine light. I was curious.
When I started the car again, I now have not only the check engine light, but the red triangle exclamation point. How would you proceed? The 12 volt battery is around 5 years old. The entire exhaust system was replaced last year.(not O2 sensors though)
The hybrid battery was replaced at 70,000 miles and I now have 110,000 miles on it. I really wonder why disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it caused more error lights to appear? Also, the Auto parts guy said his code reader was fine for my car but I seem to remember here that there may be a special Prius one.
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I have a 2002 Mazda Tribute V6 with 151K. My check engine light has come off and on for quite a while now, mostly it would come on when it rained and then go off when the weather cleared. When it was on, the engine would sputter or misfire. I first had Auto Zone hook it up and they said it needed its plugs and wires changed. No problem. I took it in to a repair place and was informed that I don't have plugs and wires, but something with coils and that since it was impossible to determine which coil was bad, all would have to be replaced at a cost of $1500. I then took it to another repair place and they said the same thing. Now I have seen some discussions regarding this same thing and apparently some people have been able to identify a specific coil. At this point my check engine light is now on all the time and I'm really worried about doing terrible damage.
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My daughter has a 2003 Passat Turbo. Two weeks ago it started to run like crap with a check engine light on. I pulled the codes and it said multiple misfires. My buddy owns his own shop and said bring it down. He pulled the plugs and the spark plug holes were filled with oil. He changed the valve cover gaskets and replaced the plugs. Still ran rough with low fuel pressure so he replace the fuel pump and injectors. Still runs rough, when he pulled the air intake off there was oil in it. Could this have happened do to the valve cover gasket? The codes still read misfires. He said the turbo was full of oil also. Could the turbo be bad causing it to run like crap? Can it be rebuilt? I really don't want to go to the dealer.
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I have a 2011 I4 camry. I recently ran out of gas and decided to keep trying to see maybe if the car would turn on. After all that i gave up cranking the car on and decided to push to a gas station. After putting in gas (93 octane) I realized i have my check engine light on and another light which depicts a car with 2 swiggly lines.What that light means but its to the right of of lcd display which shows your mileage. I am taking the car tomorrow to the dealership but I was wondering is there any way i can check the codes without an obd scanner (the thing that checks for codes). Do you think I ruined my engine after trying to start the car multiple times without gas?
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My check engine came on last night and stayed on during multiple restarts and also again this morning when I started it. I thought I was ready to bring to the dealer Monday morning but the light "magically" went off while driving today. What could cause this? And finally would there be a code stored that the dealer could check?
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I have 2007 explorer 4.0 4x4. Check engine light and wrench symbol on with codes po743 po750 po755 po po765 po966 po966 po970. Feels like it is now stuck in 3rd gear.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna that has had a check engine light for a while. The light would come at times, and go away at others, with prolonged intervals (days, weeks, months) with or without the light.
Suddenly it started losing power, especially on hills (even a small hill). The codes I read are (I include code interpretations from internet search):
P0300: Random or multiple misfire.
P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire.
P0304: Cylinder 4 misfire.
P1130: Air fuel sensor
P1150: I have not found a problem definition for this code.
Might these codes be indicative of a particular problem, or is each problem more likely a problem with its own cause?
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Why does the check engine light come on for no reason in my 1999 mazda protege 1.6 ....
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After idling for a while the check engine light has come on and stays on. I have a 2005 Mazda RX8. the car has 44000 miles on it,
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What's weird with my car recently after I recently put more engine oil into the car the next time I drove the car RPM started to zoom up past 25 mph and then it clicks back and the RPMs go back to normal. And the RPMs soup up it goes to the number three or even four RPMs. Also before this happened when I would go to a stop sign or even stop my car for a second it would shake and shut off. I mean the engine would be on but the car would not move. A couple weeks later I put transmission fluid into the car and it stopped doing that.
Listen to my car was doing this my car would be acting weird on the freeway. For example it has no problem getting on the freeway and catching up to the right miles per hour but once I get past 50 mph the check engine light will come on. When this happens nothing seems like there's anything wrong with my car but on the other hand. I don't know if it's taking too long to catch up to speed. All in all the car doesn't shake when I'm at a stop sign anymore once I put more transmission fluid in my car but this whole 50 mph and the check engine light comes on doesn't make any sense because this seems like my car is fine . 1996 mazda 626 es....
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I have a 2008 Mazda CX-7, I take it in routinely for oil changes. somewhere between oil changes, there was an oil leak that had developed. no warning lights came on - no check engine light or oil light but the levels were low. I don't know how long it was leaking for, there was never any oil in the driveway or garage.
Any way, I took it to my dealer when diagnosed it with a dye test and told me that I needed to replace the oil filter, gasket and the entire oil cooler to properly fix the leak.
My question is for an opinion as to how urgent this repair is or if I should try and take it to a local mechanic, not my dealer. I have to say my dealer's service is less than desirable anyway. I have been checking the oil levels since I had it in on the 20th of January and it has not gone done. there are small spots on occasion on the driveway but nothing too major and I have not had to add oil to it since I had it looked at.
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I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 141,000 miles. Recently, I've burned up both O2 sensors causing the check engine light to come on. My mechanic has replaced each and they've burned out again. The head gasket was replaced after that, to no avail. The check engine light continues to come on after being cleared in the computer. I have also noticed that on humid days, the car misfires on at least one cylinder., but any other time, it seems fine. What to check next? My mechanic is at a loss.
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The check engine light is blinking on my 98 Mazda Protege. I'd like to purchase one of those little hand held computers so that I can diagnose the problem myself. Should I leave it up to the professionals?
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2002 Mazda MPV Engine Light comes on. At first I thought we left the gas cap off or did not tighten it down. I waited all week to see if the light would go out but no luck. I filled the tank up with gas and the light went out right away on start up. We drove the car for several days and the light went back on. I then filled the tank again and the light went right out on start up.
I thought it might be a bad gas cap so I replaced it. Again we drove the car for several more days and the light went on. Filled up again and lights out. We did notice that the light stayed off longer when the weather is colder. The light usually goes out with in the first 1/4 tank depending on how cold the days are.
The mechanic that is working on it now says the code is P0443. He checked everything mechanical finding nothing. Now he is claiming it is an electrical problem and needs more time $$$ to find it.
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Today I went to the gas station and after I gased up and turned the car on my car started idling rough, almost to the point of cutting out. I started out on the road and my check engine light started blinking. After some time it stopped and just stayed on. The whole front end shakes pretty bad when at idle. The car has trouble accelerating till roughly 35-40 mph then seems to ride ok. I'm not very car knowledgeable, but I do take care of my car. I know I need to replace some of my hoses and spark plugs soon, but am worried that it may be more serious.
What I would like to know is: 1. What could possibly cause these issues and 2.
2003 Mazda Protege
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