Mazda - Miatamx-5 :: 2000 - Intermittent Scraping Noise
Sep 19, 2012
I drive a fixer-upper 2000 Miata SE. When I turn in reverse, like to get out of a parking spot, I get this awful, intermittent scraping noise. Imagine a sci-fi movie where some ancient rusted megabot stands up for the first time in 1,000 years - that's basically the noise. I'm thinking the most likely culprits are the LSD and the steering column. But it only happens in reverse, which doesn't fit with the steering column theory (I think), and it sounds like it's coming from the front, which doesn't fit with the LSD.
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I have a 1995 Mazda Miata with a manual transmission. Lately it has been getting harder and harder to get the car into reverse, 1st, and 2nd gears, and this morning it was impossible for me to get the car into reverse. Do I need to replace the clutch? Is it something else?
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Wipers Only Work on Slowest Setting or if I operate them manually. Is this a problem with the motor? If it was a fuse problem, they probably wouldn't work at all, right? I've read that the problem could also be battery-related. This problem seemed to start after the battery died and was jumped.
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My car is a 2006 Mazda Miata, stock except for being lowered and having a different muffler. Nothing really noteworthy about it. I did run over a big chunk of something a few years ago that cracked the plastic undertray under the nose of the car and dented the bottom row of the condenser, but the problem I'm having is more recent.
About a year ago the AC stopped working. I took it to one shop that found there was no refrigerant in the system. They refilled it, and a few hours later it stopped working again. I took it to another shop that detected a leak in one of the schrader valves (the low pressure I think). He replaced that, filled it, and it worked again for another few months.
Recently it stopped working again. I took it to the same guy that replaced the schrader valve and he found that the high pressure hose had failed. He replaced it and refilled the system. It worked for a few hours. Then when I was sitting at a drive thru, a massive cloud of refrigerant erupted from under the hood and the AC stopped working. Took it back to the guy and he found the high pressure hose had blown off. He put it back on, refilled it, and the same thing happened again. Sitting in traffic, the high pressure hose blew and all the refrigerant poured out.
I took it back to him again and he put the hose back on and refilled it again. We let the car idle for about 30 minutes with the AC on and it worked fine. During this he had the high pressure gauge hooked up and it read between 150 and 175 with the car idling (about 70 degrees F ambient temp). He didn't have the low side gauge hooked up. We did see that the fan is working and kicked up to the higher speed. He did say he checked the dryer and that it looked like the bag that held the desiccant was intact, but he didn't mention replacing the dryer in any of these visits.
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I noticed recently that I have a coolant leak in a used car that I got a few months ago. I've been driving this thing pretty regularly at this point, but I haven't noticed any overheating. The engine temp stays shy of the midpoint line on the meter, both at speed and in idle.
The coolant reservoir was empty a little over a month ago, so I filled it up. A few days ago, I took a look at it, and it was empty again. I refit a hose that was a little loose and decided I'd just wait and see what happened after driving it some. Over the past few days, I've noticed slight decreases in the coolant level each day.
Today was no different, except that after I drove for about 15 minutes on probably the hottest day of the year so far (about 95 degrees, don't know if that matters at all), I noticed there was coolant sprayed on the hood. I opened the hood and there was quite a bit of coolant pooled on the far left of the radiator top, right between the coolant reservoir and the radiator pressure cap. What's going on here?
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I have a 2008 Miata that is new to me (<40K miles). When I first drive it in the morning it has a very noticeable bumping feel for the first couple of minutes then smooths out and is not noticeable for the rest of the day, even if I park it for a couple of hours. I believe the bumping is coming from the rear driver's side. I just replaced the tires (thinking they were flat spotted), but the problem persists.
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The other day I replace the front brake pads and rotors on my daughter's '03 Accent. On the test drive I noticed a scraping noise coming from the driver's side. Got it home and didn't see anything obvious, but for fun I removed the pads and swapped the shims around. It was better, and afterwards I put the new brakes through a few heat cycles. The scraping noise became less noticeable so I figured she should just drive it for a few days. Well today I'm informed that the noise is "really bad".
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I have a 2000 Toyota Solara with 145,000 miles. When I make a right turn, there is a scraping sound like metal against metal. Its not loud or shrieking. Its hard to hear over talk radio. But in the garage I can hear it, and its been getting louder. I haven't changed or replaced the tires in awhile or had any other work done to the right tire since long before the noise started. Is this something serious that requires immediate attention or is it some loose piece of plastic?
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My wife drives a 2010 Honda Odyssey. Yesterday she told me that last week it started making occasional sounds like metal scraping. I heard it today and it sounds like a chain dragging, or something going on in the wheel. The sound lasts for less than a minute, and is then gone. The sound changes pitch/frequency with speed. It only happens with the car in motion, and only after it's been driving for awhile. It sounds like it's coming from one of the left side wheels.
There are only 36,000 miles on the car. We live in Northern California where the climate is mild and there's never salt on the road. I'm wondering if this model has problems with wheel bearings, or something else.
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My 1988 Standard 2WD Toyota pickup truck has intermittent scraping in rear driver side wheel. It only occurs after slowing down from higher speeds and making a turn. It seems to happen IN the turn. The scraping pulses and is in time with the speed of the truck. Once it starts scraping, I stop for a minute, then it goes away.
This makes me think it is my rear brake drum, overheating and locking up. I've jacked up, in neutral, with handbrake OFF and both rear wheels have extreme resistance when I turn them by hand. I also jacked the front to compare the resistance of the front wheels, and there is nearly none. Not sure if this is normal since it is RWD.
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There is an intermittent scraping sound in the middle of the dash on a 2007 Lincoln town car. It is a low mileage car, about 40000 miles. It comes and goes. It doesn't seem to make any difference which position the ac controls are in. but climate control has to be on.. There is also a sound when you turn ignition off, sounds like water moving. I am thinking it might be something with a blend door actuator.
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My car just started making a wheezing kind of noise when accelerating. Reminds me of wind being forced through a small hole, or the sound of a balloon being aired up.
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I recently noticed a humming noise coming from the passenger side on my Mazda Protege 2000 ES . I suspected it was the water pump, so I took the car to my mechanic. He inspected the coolant reservoir and it was empty. He also checked the noise and the area were the pump is, and told me that the water pump had to be replaced.
My dad told me that his 1994 Sentra had the water pump replaced but none of these things had to be done and that it was unnecessary. But then I thought, every car is different.
I was in shock with how much the repair would cost, so he then gave me another quote with just the timing belt and water pump replacement for $503, but this time he said that he will not give me any warranty for the repairs because of the tensioner.
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I've a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo, 3.4 L engine, 110K miles. The cooling fan is making a intermittent loud noise for some reason or another. Can the motors be purchased separately or will I have to buy the entire cooling fan assembly? Also, could this be a bearing problem? The fan doesn't appear to be rubbing against anything. The fan is running after the engine is turn off although the engine wasn't real hot.................driven under 15 miles and fan came on and stayed on after turning off engine but finally stopped running.
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2000 Expedition AWD, 4.6l ... 150K on car, 50K on trans, 150k on transfer case and most else.
The problem is, under load, there is a intermittent bearing vibration noise...it sounds like a roller bearing that has too much tolerance so it vibrates in and out under acceleration. You can feel it in the gas pedal and chassis, you can hear it, and it robs a little power when the sound it pronounced. The sound is 10x worst when towing my 6000lb boat. Gear doesn't seem to matter, but it is hard to make it happen in 3rd gear.
Diagnostics so far:
-Can't reproduce sound on rack or out of gear
-Stethoscoped all accessories - good
-added Lucas oil additive to engine oil - no change
-added Duralube high mileage goop to trans - no change/slight change?
-Aamco said it was transfer case, tear down and inspection revealed nothing, they said it was mostly pristine for a car with 150K on it.
-Inspected U-joints - all tight
The duralube in the transmission may have made a slight difference in the frequency of the sound...but it could be my imagination, it wasn't significant enough a change to be determinate.
I think I could isolate the issue with a diagnostic tool that doesn't exist as far as I know...it would be a handheld device with 4 magnetic mic sensors you could stick in various locations and watch the waveform output on the handheld... you would simply move the mic's around until you got the highest amplitude on the readout.
At this point the only thing I can think of:
-Aamco missed something
-Main bearings, cam bearings, or possibly oil pump
-Transmission bearing (Aamco says "NOT")
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A loud humming (sounds like a compressor). I can place the car in neutral, the engine revs up, and humming will stop. I have to repeat this action for the first 30-45 minutes from start of drive time.
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My hubby hit a curb on vacation last weekend and now it sounds like something is grinding and we can both feel vibrations (on both driver and passenger floor) it does not do it when stopped. We had to cut the bottom of the under carriage away from the tires due to it rubbing, thinking that was what the noise was, but its only getting worse.We just changed the CV joint on the driver side in March at the same time. We do know he has a small exhaust leak but it was never making this sound until he hit that curb.. I really don't want to take it to a shop to have it looked at if I don't have to, I normally do all the work myself.
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I have a 2000 Ford Focus automatic dohc 157K. About two years ago, it started making a noise that has gotten progressively worse. It is very hard to describe. It sounds like an intermittent flopping noise that you would expect from a bad tire. What makes is strange, is that the sound is not consistent with the rotation of the wheels. It does however increase and decrease with speed, but again it's inconsistent with the wheel rotation. It does not roar, or whine like a bearing, and there is not popping noise you usually get with a bad CV joint.
It seems to subside when I turn to the right and become a little more pronounced when I turn to the left. I have new tires, a new axle and wheel bearing on the right (passenger) side of the car. The repair shop checked all of the bushings and bearings, and cannot hear the noise when it is on a lift. I also just changed the sway bar links and all the engine mounts. You can feel the floorboard bumping along with the sound, but it does not telegraph through the steering wheel. There is no shimmy or vibration.
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So, I'm minding my own business pulling out of Starbucks with my gingerbread latte, making a nice and easy right turn when I hear "clunk" ("pop" maybe??). I hear a scraping/whirring sound on deceleration only (once I get past say 30-40 miles per hour). NOT brake related at all, occurs only when I let up on the accelerator. My baby is a 2000 Ford Taurus with 238,000 (yep, you read that right). I'm thinking transmission (and, I really want to be wrong). I've had the transmission flushed every 30,000 miles and serviced at 150,000 per Ford's maintenance schedule. I have taken very good care of my vehicle, but I do put a lot of miles on it every day as I drive 120 miles round trip to work 5 days a week.
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I'll be driving the car fine, but after driving for maybe 10+ minutes and then stopping for 20-30 minutes, my manual 2002 Mazda Tribute DX (about 126K miles) won't start. It doesn't act flooded at all, all I hear is a click. The lights and radio and air conditioning and everything come on perfectly, but it won't start. About half of the time, it won't work at all with repeated attempts but after about 5 min. it'll just start normally. I've towed it to a shop 3 times now, on the first the alternator was replaced, and after about a week the same problem occurred, etc.
My mechanic then thought I might not be pressing the clutch all the way down since it worked right after towing but after about a week (I removed the floor mat and even made a video of me, a relatively large male, pressing as hard as safely possible on the clutch) but it still wouldn't start. It was towed, and now the car is at the shop again but the mechanic can't reproduce the problem yet again. Its battery and clutch were just replaced about a year ago, the connections don't look corroded, and my mechanic's tests on the alternator seem fine. Steering wheel isn't locked, and (supposedly) the shop's tried looking at the starter.
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Problem: car cranks but doesn't start then randomly it will start. 2 different shops...first thought maybe battery (no it cranks) but said these cars are notorious for cam sensor problems they didn't have software to diagnose. Brought to dealership again battery (we were finally beat down and replaced battery) ...then brought home if car sat for a few days totally dead needed jumpstart....brought back to dealer they replaced cam sensor and timing belt...went to pick it up and you guessed it....cranked but didn't start....mechanic came out and it started....so after replacing several parts we are back to the same problem intermittent crank without start...
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