Mazda - Mazdaspeed6 :: 2002 - Convertible Rooftop Latch?
Feb 21, 2011
While I was putting the top up on my 2002 Miata today, someone failed to pull the sun visor on the passenger side out of the way before snapping down the rooftop latch. Because I was sitting inside on the driver's side, I saw what was happening and stopped them from further forcing the latch. However, I fear they managed to slightly spring the latch because it doesn't snap down as snug as it used to. They didn't push hard enough to leave even the slightest mark or imprint on the visor but, just the same, the latch isn't right anymore. Is there a way for me to make some sort adjustment to the latch, or will I have to take the car in for repair. I'm now worried about a leak between the windshield seal and the roof, although the fit looks and feels snug from the outside.
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My trunk latch will not catch. It will close and stay closed, but when driving it trips the sensor that it's open. The Car will not alarm unless I push down on the trunk, but if a car drives by it trips the alarm.
I have removed the liner to expose the latch assembly, but can't find anything broken. Have been unable to remove the hard plastic surrounding the latch itself.
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I am able to open the trunk with remote but not from latch inside or key! Whats the diagnosis and fix?
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I have a new issue with my '02 Silverado, which so far has been a good truck. However, about a week ago when I tried to open the tailgate, the latch wouldn't release. I have yanked on the tailgate with my full weight (260 lbs) while pulling on the release handle, and have not had any success at getting it open.
The release handle seems to work OK, but the internal latch mechanism seems to be jammed in some way. I have even tried parking the truck on different surfaces, just to see if tilting the truck at different angles would loosen the latch, but that didn't work either.
It's as if the tailgate were welded shut. fortunately, most stuff I put in the bed isn't too heavy for me to lift over the gate or the bed sides, but I'd really like to have my tailgate working again. I have even thought that if I do get the gate open, that I'd disable the latch and install a hook-and-chain setup like what trucks had in the early 1960s and prior (since it's a work truck and I'm not planning to part with, it I'm not concerned about resale value).
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Cannot open trunk with remote or switch inside driver's door. Key entry at rear fine. Have checked all fuses. Also, front passenger window will go down with one push of switch but requires constant pull to close. Was working fine. Any connections?
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My jeep liberty 2002 has been sitting for two weeks. Noticed rear door latch opening and closing. So I unhooked battery. I figured battery was dead tried to hook charge to it but it keep discharging kicking off charger. Whats going on? Tried jumping but it was still discharging?
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2002 sc 430--interior door latch cable is broken at the ball. Is it possible to (purchase and) replace just the cable or is the cable integrated with the locking mechanism, requiring replacement of the whole unit. Also, need to get just cable and/or integrated cable/lock mechanism.
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What model year(s) 2nd row bench seats that have a factory LATCH system will fit in a 2002 Ford Excursion to replace the seat that is missing the anchors that are between seat bottom and seat back?
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I am considering a G6 convertible. I have read to stay away from the 06 model because Pontiac did not consider the design changes that a convertible hard top would place on the body structure of the car, so the body will "bend". Is this true of the 07s-09s? Is there a better year for this car?
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Just bought my sc and the top won't go down,when I press the button nothing happens no blinking lights or noise.if I open the windows and press the close button the Windows go up,but when I press the down button nothing happens.
I have the trunk cover close and I checked all the fuses in the trunk but they all seem fine nothing blown that I can see.i disconnected the battery overnight and still nothing. I also checked in the glove box and the button is pushed in like it is suppose to be.
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Have 2002 mazda protege 5 . During acceleration at 3000 rpm the engine hesitates. Computer said o2 sensor, replaced it but that wasn't it. Drilled out both catalytic, that wasn't it. Found hole in mass air flow tube, figured that is it. I haven't replaced that yet, however I used gorilla tape thinking it would be a temporary fix but that didn't work. I know I need to replace that tube, but think that it may now be a fuel pump issue??
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I was driving on the highway one day at 70 mph (the speed limit here) and all of a sudden it felt and sounded like I was crossing onto the shoulder - a frontal vibration and mmm. I have had the tires balanced and the front end checked. I have even just had two new engine mounts replaced. The problem is still there! What is it? How can I check it?
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2002mazda protege5,2.3 ltr engine.had the timing belt changed, then the problem started after the belt was replaced.took back- scan showed short in #2 cylinder and vacuum code.they fixed coil problem for #2 cylinder but vacuum code went away.once rmp get above 2500 accelerates o.k.hesitates when taking off from stop sign, etc.could vac hose be missing somewhere?seems to act like it floods when taking off.does vacuum control timing advance or gas/air mixture?
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The top of my 2004 SC430 got stuck halfway open and I put it up manually. Now it does not work at all. The dealer told me it would cost $8,000 to fix! I love this car. How I can get the top fixed without going bankrupt?
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My 2002 Mazda MPV will stall everytime after the rpms go over 2,000 and I let off the gas. I can put it in neutral and it will start back up. Not sure if something is clogged or its electrical? It has 177,000
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2002 Mazda MPV Engine Light comes on. At first I thought we left the gas cap off or did not tighten it down. I waited all week to see if the light would go out but no luck. I filled the tank up with gas and the light went out right away on start up. We drove the car for several days and the light went back on. I then filled the tank again and the light went right out on start up.
I thought it might be a bad gas cap so I replaced it. Again we drove the car for several more days and the light went on. Filled up again and lights out. We did notice that the light stayed off longer when the weather is colder. The light usually goes out with in the first 1/4 tank depending on how cold the days are.
The mechanic that is working on it now says the code is P0443. He checked everything mechanical finding nothing. Now he is claiming it is an electrical problem and needs more time $$$ to find it.
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I have a 2002 Mazda Protege5. It was showing signs of the CV joints going out (popping noises) so I had them replaced. Now there is still popping noises but they are different. They are less frequent. Instead of a pop, pop, pop... when turning it will pop,...........pop,........pop.... and it will only due this when it is hot outside. It also makes the noises when going over bumps some of the time. I took it back into the mechanic and had him look over everything again and he said that all the tie rods and cv joints and everything looked great. He thought it might be a wearing strut or an over tightened strut.
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As the title states, I have a 2002 Mazda B3000 series Pickup and while everything is working great, the a/c is driving me insane!
Here's how it goes:
- Start the car, turn on the A/C, hear a click
- As I drive, after 10-20 minutes, the A/C would just either switch to (what I think is) vent; it blows humid, warm air.
- Another way to turn it off is to accelerate quickly; Note: these two scenarios are sometimes inconsistent
- Sometimes, it would occur, while other times it would just randomly turn itself off
- A solution I've found is to switch over to vent, leave it on there for a few minutes, then switch back to A/C; works for another 10-20 minutes
What I have done to fix it is to replace the freon (even though, it was never really empty; still isn't empty) and have replaced the fuse associated with the A/C.
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I own a automatic 2002 Mazda Protege with about 167,000 miles on it. The other day I was at a stop light and when I accelerated it felt like the car was taking longer than normal to get into gear. I am scared that it may be a transmission problem.
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The switch on my Solara Convertible is freezing up. How do I change it?
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I bought 02 convertible in 2012 with 100,0000 on it, now 122,000, love it other than it turns over very slow almost like its not going to start but it always does, we recently had it tuned up new fuel filter , battery and car still turns over very slow.
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