I have a 2003 Mazda 6. Almost every day, after starting it and driving maybe .10 of a mile, it seems as my car shifts, it shifts really hard, like a thump. I am thinking of having the Transmission serviced. Is this worth it? About what should the cost be? What do they do, just drain the fluid and add new?
View 2 RepliesA while ago, I acquired a 1991 Mazda 626 automatic (currently 105,000 miles) that now has what appear to be the beginning of transmission issues. It hard shifts from 1st to 2nd - the shift jerks really hard when the car is cold but once I've driven it for 15-20 minutes the hard shift almost disappears completely and stays that way as long as the car is warm - except for stop and go traffic (Seattle traffic) than the hard shift comes back no matter how long I've been driving. The only other shifting issue I notice is on the hills where it seems to shift more frequently than I might expect it too.
Other than what I've described this car is in perfect condition inside and out, as well as engine-wise. My question is on transmissions and whether I should get a rebuilt one. I've taken it to multiple transmission shops and almost all have told me two things 1) I need a new transmission and 2) that the issue is a hard component problem and I could most likely drive this car for months or years without having to replace the transmission - if I want to put up with the rough shifts. They recommended just driving it until the transmission goes out and then replacing it.
i have a 2000 grand am with a 3400 engine and stock trans, i did a full engine swap in the car a few months ago for a friend and it was running fine, the engine and trans came out of an 04 grand am. I bought the car for a second vehicle for my every day driver after he changed the (tfp) sensor, and it shifts fine, but it is still showing a P1810 code, and shifts hard after driving it for a while but only when putting it in gear. What it can be?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Mazda 6, 5-speed manual transmission. I was driving on the highway today (going about 65mph), and all of a sudden, my car kind of "jolted" (like it stalled out). When I tried pushing the gas pedal, the car wouldn't accelerate. When this happened, the check engine light (and some other lights) went on, too. I pulled over to the side, turned the car off, and turned it back on. It seemed to start fine and gas/acceleration was working. Fortunately, I was able to get home, but it started doing it more frequently up until I got to my apartment. Each time, I had to turn the car off and restart it.
Oddly enough, when the car does this and I pull over to the side, the engine is still on. However, even though the engine is on and the car is idling, I noticed the RPMs were sort of jumping between 0 and 1000, and the engine was sputtering (like it was sputtering with the RPMs jumping, the only way I can describe this sputtering is like a heart beat). The only thing that seems to work is to turn the car off and turn it back on, which will then allow the gas pedal to work, only to have it happen again a few minutes later. The gas pedal doesn't get stuck or anything, it's just pushing it doesn't seem to accelerate the car.
I've already had the engine replaced on this car last year (at 80K) and the clutch a few months ago, too.
I have an 2003 F-150 4.6L with a 4R70W transmission, the speedometer goes crazy while I drive, the truck feels like it kicks in & out of overdrive, it shifts hard, the o/d light flashes while driving and I cannot use speed control. I have already checked the transmission fluid, changed the speed sensor, & the range sensor. After changing the range sensor the truck ran perfect for 3 days then the same problems.
View 5 RepliesI just got this 2007 Mazda6 S Sport Value Edition for free from a family member. It has an automatic transmission.
While driving it in a parking lot I noticed that the car was make some kind of a rattling noise whenever I start accelerating slowly from around 1000ish rpms. After that the noise disappears. The first time hearing something like this was in a Prius I rented, though I don't think this affects performance at all. I am wondering if this is normal?
Also the car has being sitting unused for about a couple of months before I picked it up. I noticed immediately a burning smell after driving it, somewhere under the driver side, which makes me suspect if it has something to do with the transmission. I know very little about fixing cars of course but I also own a manual transmission car, and this smell kinda reminds me of a burning clutch.
The car drives great. The transmission seems to work fine. No slipping. Driving around those hills in San Francisco just fine.
I just got a 2000 passat wagon with a 1.8t and tiptronic transmission. The questions is when it is cold the transmission has a hard time to start driving. But as soon as it is warm it drives great. It is throwing a check engine code havent checked it yet.
View 9 RepliesLast week my 2011 KR Diesel with 85k on it stopped downshifting correctly. Basically when the transmission is cold (<150 degrees on the digital gauge for transmission fluid) it jerks everytime it shifts down from 4->3->2->1. Especially 3->2 and 2->1. I have never seen anything like this before. It's almost if you are getting reared ended when it shifts.
If I let it warm up it eventually goes away until it cools down again. I did take into the dealer and they said that a) there is definitely something wrong with the torque converter and b) I might actually need a new transmission which is anywhere between 4-7k depending on if its a reman or new.
This truck is barely broken in and I at this point have not towed a single thing with it. I had thought the transmission was covered up to 100k but it looks like it's only covered to 60 or 75k (I forgot which).
I've opened up a case with Ford but they kicked it back to the dealer. The dealer service manager has been really NICE and is definitely on my side that this SHOULD HAVE NEVER HAPPENED at this mileage. They also don't know how to fix it without pulling apart everything which is a lot of labor.
My 98 honda v6 accord shifts hard sometimes when going into and out of low gears. The transmission guy told me it had to do with the material that was on the clutches wearing off, dislodging, and clogging things. I have been driving the car for several years as is. Should I have the tranny rebuild or keep driving? Am I making matters worse by driving it as is?
View 6 RepliesI'm sure this has been brought up before. Whats the rattle you hear when accelerating hard when the transmission shifts? Exhaust note, exhaust hardware, dsg transmission, engine sound?
View 8 RepliesHave a 2002 avalanche Z71. Transmission was rebuilt 33k ago. It currently shifts a little hard going from 1 to 2nd. Real problem shows up between 40 mph and 50 mph. It suddenly shifts into overdrive which drops the engine rpm waaay down and starts lugging the engine.
Took it back to the guys who did the rebuild. They drove it around and noticed that the computer reported no codes. They claimed it was the TPS and said to replace it. I did. Problem is still there.
Took it to a highly trusted mechanic. They said they think the valve body needs replacing but they don't do transmissions. The guy they recommend drove it around and he thinks it is the torque converter.
I am wondering what causes the computer to decide when it is time to shift into overdrive and I am wondering if there is some sensor that has gone whacko and needs to be replaced instead of starting to tear the transmission apart.
130,000 miles transmission shifts hard in every gear sometimes other times it is completely fine. Thought about servicing it with new fluid, filter, flush but have heard that this could cause problems since so many miles...
View 19 RepliesI just rebuilt my E4OD transmission in my 1996 F250 7.3L it has all new clutch packs torque converter and a shift kit. When I first put itback together it would not shift out of second cleaned mlps and shifts threw all the gears now. I took it out on the road to test it and this thing ran great shifted smooth and quick could not askfor any better but when Trans temp gets around 140-150deg it shifts hard and od light flashes. I have ordered a scanner to read the codes but won’t be in till later this week. What I could check in the meantime.
View 13 RepliesHave an 01 f150 super crew 4x4 with 5.4 li shifts hard from 1st to 2nd - What could be the problem?
View 1 RepliesMy '04 v6 wagon 100K will misfire in really damp conditions. Last fall after going through a massive puddle and today after sitting for a couple of days of warm damp foggy & rainy New England spring weather. OBDII scanner is reporting cylinder 3 as the one misfiring in the fall, today there were a ton of codes (that I didn't note).
So I made it about 2 miles from the house and had to turn back. No power, check light flashing. I had to put it in manual and keep the revs highish (3-4K). When I got home the exhaust manifold was glowing yellow, assuming one or more cylinders were passing fuel out to the exhaust and it was being burnt off in the manifold.
My question: could I have damaged any gaskets back there? This could be my imagination but I think I'm hearing a new noise that I'd normally attribute to an exhaust leak downstream of the muffler, very subtle - like a gentle light but rapid thud. I only hear this noise with my ear to in the front driver's wheel well. There's no ticking noise I normally attribute to leaks near the manifold. My imagination or is it easy to damage something in the circumstances I describe?
My son's mazda 6 will turn over but not start. the things I have done:
1. replace crank sensor
2. replace cam shaft sensors
3. it has spark
4. fuel pump works
5. sprayed starting fluid in still will not start.
What else should I check? Security system?
Our intrepid 3.5L with 135000 miles has been acting up a bit. Its had a couple hard shifts over the last few days/week that almost seemed like an engine hesitation, and this morning when slowing down from highway speed into a small town, it abruptly shifted down to 2nd and stayed there like its in "limp mode" ??.
Pulled over and checked fluid. Level looked good and smelled ok but has a brown tinge to the pink fluid.
Started to go again and it still wouldn't shift. Pulled over and shut car off. Checked codes P700 and P138.
Started car up and it shifted fine for the next 28 miles. Shut car off and parked it.
I have a 2003 Santa Fe 3.5l FWD 155k miles. Car has been incredibly trouble free until now. When the transmission up-shifts from 2nd to 3rd there is a hard jolt. All other up-shift and down-shift points work smooth. Occasionally will shift smooth just after I start the car or if I am accelerating hard. The rough shift happens whether I am in D or use the "manual" shift control. This coincidentally(?) started just about the time I had a battery die hard and an O2 sensor fail. Both have been replaced. Changed the AT fluid and no difference. No engine codes, but I think the AT codes don't show there? What might be going on? Any chance the battery failure had anything to do with this? Seems odd that battery, O2 sensor and transmission all start acting up at the same time.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1998 chevy blazer v6 about 127024 miles. My transmission shifts hard out of first gear when i get to 4 gear and it shifts hard. When car warms up really good car shifts find out of first gear but 4th gear still shifts hard. I did change transmission fluid and new filter in it and I check fluid level and it's full.
View 6 Replies2000 Ranger autimatic, 2.5 lt 2wd, 155,000 miles. To my knowledge it has never had a tranny flush or the fluid changed. I have noticed last week that when you are taking off from a stop sign it jerks going into gear. This only happens when you are taking off all the other shifts are smooth. The transmission fluid color is redish-brown and doesn't have a burnt odor. I don't know where to start. Do I get a tranny flush, change the fluid or is it something else?
View 5 RepliesI have 1993 F-350, 4X4, four door with a 460 fuelie and a 4EOD. That"s a bunch of 4's! I bought this pickup with 186,000 miles on it in 2005 or so, really just to haul fire wood and go to the dump once every 6 months. I don't know if the the tranny has ever been rebuilt. Nothing else on the pickup has been rebuilt. It now has 196,000 miles on it. In the past the tranny always shifted like a stock 4EOD. Kind of slides into the first three gears then into overdrive pretty solid. I took it out to go to the dump last week and it was just like always until it took it to taco party last night and it started to shift real abrupty. Doesn't matter how fast you go, it hits just as hard if you are on the gas or just casually cruising. It is hard in every gear. My first thought was that it may be low on fluid. When it is hot, idling in park after a drive I don't see oil in the little holes on the dip stick. I see oil on the dip stick but not in the little holes. Am I correct in thinking I should see oil in the holes? Actually I will see oil in the little holes when I first pull it out, then if i wipe it, put it back in, I see no oil in the holes. Engine idling in park of course.
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