Mazda - Mazda6 :: 2003 - Chronic Ignition Coil Cause?
Dec 26, 2012
Can a problem elsewhere in the system cause ignition coils to go bad? I have an '03 Mazda 6s, 147k miles, owned it since new (Dec '02). 3 1/2 ~ 4 years ago, over a period of 6 months I had to replace 4 of the 6 coils. A month ago, one of the replaced coils went bad so I had all three rear bank coils replaced (cheaper to do all three at once rather than one at at a time since half the engine needs to be disassembled to get at them). This week, I started to get the initial symptom of a coil going bad on me: Occasional stuttering in the engine.
This issue always starts when it's wet outside. The first few times it started when going through a car wash, this last time was right after Super Storm Sandy dumped a lot of rain (I am not in one of the flooded areas, NH just got a lot of rain).
View 9 Replies
Advertisement
My 89 Mazda B2600i conked out on me suddenly about 10 days ago. My local mechanic replaced the distributor, cap, and rotor and the ignition coil and now it's running again. But starting it up at the mechanic's, I noticed a new faint sound like a clock ticking rapidly. From under the hood it sounds more like an exposed spark plug firing, but fainter.
After driving around to make sure I wasn't imagining it, I had the mechanic take a quick listen and look. He couldn't say for sure what it was, but said it was probably nothing to worry about.Taking a look under the hood at night, I saw lights running along the spark plug wires (continuous) and flashes of light where the spark plugs insert (frequent).
If one terminal of a volt meter is placed on the outside of the wire running from the ignition coil to the distributor and the other held in the air, the voltage rapidly builds up to 4 volts (a few seconds) and then immediately drops back to zero. This happens in roughly the same time frame as the flashes of light where the spark plugs insert, but I can't tell if it's the exact same frequency. What's going on?
View 4 Replies
My son's mazda 6 will turn over but not start. the things I have done:
1. replace crank sensor
2. replace cam shaft sensors
3. it has spark
4. fuel pump works
5. sprayed starting fluid in still will not start.
What else should I check? Security system?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2003 Mazda 6, 5-speed manual transmission. I was driving on the highway today (going about 65mph), and all of a sudden, my car kind of "jolted" (like it stalled out). When I tried pushing the gas pedal, the car wouldn't accelerate. When this happened, the check engine light (and some other lights) went on, too. I pulled over to the side, turned the car off, and turned it back on. It seemed to start fine and gas/acceleration was working. Fortunately, I was able to get home, but it started doing it more frequently up until I got to my apartment. Each time, I had to turn the car off and restart it.
Oddly enough, when the car does this and I pull over to the side, the engine is still on. However, even though the engine is on and the car is idling, I noticed the RPMs were sort of jumping between 0 and 1000, and the engine was sputtering (like it was sputtering with the RPMs jumping, the only way I can describe this sputtering is like a heart beat). The only thing that seems to work is to turn the car off and turn it back on, which will then allow the gas pedal to work, only to have it happen again a few minutes later. The gas pedal doesn't get stuck or anything, it's just pushing it doesn't seem to accelerate the car.
I've already had the engine replaced on this car last year (at 80K) and the clutch a few months ago, too.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2003 Mazda6, 108K miles. Had the ATF changed last December at the dealer. Prior to this, there was some hesitancy to shift into 1st when cold. Last several months, it has gotten worse. Engine revs (as much as I allow it, which ain't much) and then goes into first. Dealer thought they had overfilled the ATF, and reflushed and refilled. Said they couldn't find any other problems. There is no CEL. Problem was better for a short while after fluid change, but now back to long hesitation. Car goes into Reverse fine when cold. Once the car is warm, I don't notice the hesitancy to shift to first. How to diagnose?
View 1 Replies
MILEAGE: 65,000
Last time I was in, the shop replaced my sway bar links, which had already been diagnosed and the repair scheduled. Then, after replacing the sway bar links, the mechanic told me that the control arm bushings were cracked. They already put new struts on the front, as well. So I asked him what else was going to go wrong with my suspension. He said nothing else should need work. He also said that the car was safe to drive for a couple months but I definitely needed to get it fixed.
QUESTIONS:
Is it normal for a car with 65,000 miles to have cracked bushings? I realize that the car is 11 years old; I just wondered how much a car's mileage plays into cracking the bushings and, if so, after how many miles should one expect before cracking occurs.
Does it sound like they're trying to soak me? Why tell me one thing at a time? Perhaps more revenue from the labor side of things?
Assuming the bushings truly need to be replaced, does the community here think there is anything else that should be checked and taken care of at the same time? It is both costly and annoying to have to take the car back numerous times.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2003 Mazda 6 and heard a rattling sound in the engine ONLY when the car is in drive or reverse, never when in Park. My mechanic said it is the clutch in the alternator that is coming apart and so the Alternator - tensioner - belt all needs to be replaced for a total of almost $800. Does this seem reasonable?
View 5 Replies
Found out today that my third ignition coil is bad, it's a Honda civic 03' my question is, do I have to buy a new ignition coil. I had a clerk tell me I could switch the coils and it would run fine? Is this right? could I just switch the ignition coil with another ignition coil? This doesn't sound right. Well If I do buy new one which would be the third ignition coil? is it counted from left to right or right to left? Are there any telltale signs of a bad ignition coil on sight?
View 16 Replies
I have a 2003 passat 1.8 and I just started having a misfiring problem. I googled it and ran across a 2003 press release that VW had recalled them. I am going to call tomorrow, but I did a little testing myself. Probably not the best thing to do, but this is what I did. I had my wife start the car and I pulled off the coils until I hit the one that didn't make the car shake any more than it already was. It is the second one from the front. I pulled the spark plug out. It is the original, but didn't look too bad.
My question is: How do you test the ignition coil to see if it is faulty or if it could be the distributor? The coil that attaches to the plug looks a little burnt around the rim where it connects to the plug. Its not an expensive part, but I don't want to go buying another one just to find out it is the main distributor or something else...
View 3 Replies
My '04 v6 wagon 100K will misfire in really damp conditions. Last fall after going through a massive puddle and today after sitting for a couple of days of warm damp foggy & rainy New England spring weather. OBDII scanner is reporting cylinder 3 as the one misfiring in the fall, today there were a ton of codes (that I didn't note).
So I made it about 2 miles from the house and had to turn back. No power, check light flashing. I had to put it in manual and keep the revs highish (3-4K). When I got home the exhaust manifold was glowing yellow, assuming one or more cylinders were passing fuel out to the exhaust and it was being burnt off in the manifold.
My question: could I have damaged any gaskets back there? This could be my imagination but I think I'm hearing a new noise that I'd normally attribute to an exhaust leak downstream of the muffler, very subtle - like a gentle light but rapid thud. I only hear this noise with my ear to in the front driver's wheel well. There's no ticking noise I normally attribute to leaks near the manifold. My imagination or is it easy to damage something in the circumstances I describe?
View 11 Replies
My grand am began shaking (shuddering) consistently yesterday morning and I ran a diagnostic reading on the car. It told me that there was a misfire. I replaced the spark plugs and still no change. This car has been a nightmare to do maintenance work on since everything is either within a case or impossible to access on a regular car jack - so what could be causing this reaction in the car? Is it definitely the ignition coil? I would just hate to attempt to replace that (not to mention the fact that it's $100+ for the part) if I didn't survey other options. 2003 Pontiac Grand Am 2.2....
View 1 Replies
1999 Ford F-150 4WD
5.4L Triton V8
114k miles
So my check engine light came on a few days ago and I went down to Autozone to check it out with the code reader. The result was "Cylinder 4 Misfire" (the guy said that was as far as the diagnosis would go...) and since I just replaced the spark plugs under 1,000 miles ago, I figured it must be the ignition coil (I replaced coils 1, 7 and 8 about 100 miles ago too).
When I removed the coil, the outside was fully covered in rust, the spring had a tiny bit of rust, and it smelled a little like gasoline. After replacing the coil, the check engine light went off, however the engine still runs rough and doesn't sound much different than before.
What the issue might be? Would a compression test or a better code reader diagnosis give me more insight? I live in Louisiana where we get a decent amount of rain and humidity, so I'm worried there might be a moisture issue down around the spark plug. Also, the exhaust seems hotter than normal and the engine gets pretty hot in a short amount of time.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2007 Mazda 6 with 133000 miles on it. Recently it has started making a very loud sound that comes from under the hood. The sounds is comparable to the sound a semi truck makes if it is idling. The noise is not constant, usually happens when I put the car in park or if I'm driving at low speed (under 20mph). The sound lasts around one minute.
View 2 Replies
Mazda6. I have a check engine light for a random misfire on cylinder 2. I have changed the spark plugs, the injector, and even the cylinder 2 coil, but still have that random misfire. The funny thing is that it would run great within short (about 30 miles) one way trips. Lately, I have gotten a new symptom: It has started to hesitate and can feel a loss of power but only once the car has been driven for about ten minutes non stop. Can't figure this out.
View 12 Replies
2009 mazda6, I feel some vibration feels like wheel is out of balance coming from the front left wheel, it's most noticable at 30mph and again at 60mph. It's more noticable when i'm turning right, e.g. shiting to the right lane.
Already replaced four tires, balanced the tires and replaced front struts and rear shocks.. and it's still there!!
when shifting to the right lane, the vibration feels like da-da-da-da-da.. like I'm driving over some washboard road.
What could this be, is this CV-joint? can I ask dealer to check out CV-joint see if it's ok?
View 3 Replies
we have an 2006 Mazada 6 automatic transmission with the option of manually shifting gears. we have had it a year and the only maintenance is work on the air conditioner, oil changes, and new tires. when accelerating on an incline or sometimes during/after a curve as it shifts into 4th gear it makes a terrible noise and the whole car jerks. the best way I know to describe it is it feels as if the bottom of the car is about to fall out! when we first purchased it, it done this a couple times and basically quit doing it for a few months.
It seems to be getting worse though. we have never had a check engine light. we sent a can of "sea foam" through the gas tank and this seemed to work. a local mechanic examined it and test drove it but couldn’t find anything wrong with it. (of course it didn’t act like this when he drove it!) I called mazda dealership and they cant tell us anything without us bringing it in and charging us no telling how much just to look at it. no one seems to be able to figure this out….
View 4 Replies
I was replacing my spark plugs and one screw holding the ignition coil stripped while another snapped. I have change 3 plugs (the easy one) and could have more problems. I spent half a day trying to drill the screws out to no avail and also noticed the intake manifold is plastic. I was thinking of swapping it out. This would alleviate the broken screw problem and make pulling the plugs easier. It also looks like it's just 8 bolts. Would swapping a new intake manifold in add any performance gains? Is there a manifold others recommend?
View 9 Replies
I have a 2005 Mazda6 4 cyl manual transmission, purchased this past holidays. Last week the clutch disk totally wore out and the car was not moving at all... AT 68000 miles only. I am a new manual transmission driver and I think I might have been part of the problem. My mechanic, who is a family friend, has replaced already the clutch kit and he found out that the clutch disc was not only worn out but actually damaged, shattered on a side. So I got scolded by him and my father as they suggested that I damaged it by doing improper shifting. They suggested that I went from 4th or 3rd gear to 1st thus damaging the clutch disc for the car to totally stop moving.
However that's very unlikely in my opinion. I don't know if Mazda included some sort of safety feature in the transmission, but the car never let me go in 1st gear if it was already in motion, the shifter would lock if I attempted (found that out when driving in stop-and-go heavy traffic). I thought my problem was due to my foot frequently flirting with the clutch pedal in order to keep my driving and shifting smooth. In fact a few friends of mine who drove manuals in the past complimented me on my driving becoming so smooth in a short time. I also think that I bought the car with the clutch kit carrying some sort of damage on it, since in the first weeks of ownership, my practice period, I would often smell a burning odor when I was not doing things smoothly. Once I got better I never smelt the odor again until a few days before the clutch gave out.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2003 Mazda 6. Almost every day, after starting it and driving maybe .10 of a mile, it seems as my car shifts, it shifts really hard, like a thump. I am thinking of having the Transmission serviced. Is this worth it? About what should the cost be? What do they do, just drain the fluid and add new?
View 2 Replies
I've got a mazda 6 v6 3.7 from the year 2010 with approx. 69000 miles on the clock. I noticed when going uphill at low or high speeds that the car seems to feel like it is shifting but it actually isn't. For example when I drive on the highway about 70 going up a hill it feels like it shifts every few seconds even on manual mode in 6th gear.
When I hit the gas it shifts back and I don't feel it anymore. At lower speeds it feels like it is doing a whole lot of shifting at low/medium acceleration. Again if I hit the gas and accelerate faster the car just goes normally up its gears. I think this is the torque converter doing this, but I am not sure whether it is normal?
View 6 Replies
I have a 2006 Mazda 6 with 104k on it. The clutch started sticking a couple weeks ago right where it would engage into gear, and I'd have to use my foot to pop it back up. It only happened here and there until finally, it stuck to the floor and became very difficult, if not impossible, to get out of gear. So everywhere I looked, it seemed that the slave cylinder was the culprit. I got a new one at AutoZone, replaced it yesterday, and the car ran great last night and this morning.
Then, this afternoon, in one 10 mile trip, it went back to the original problem. Stuck with every gear change, then stuck to the floor after I pushed it in and darn near wouldn't come out of gear. What in the world could be the problem?
View 14 Replies
