In a recent show a listener described the exact problem I just started to have - the dash hand brake light pops on when i go over bumps or up my driveway . It was a fluid level problem but I don't remember which it was. Was it brake fluid or power steering fluid or something else?
View 4 RepliesWe have a 2007 Mazda5 we recently purchased used from a Mazda dealer. We learned later that the car has had numerous repairs the dealer didn't disclose, including a radiator fan replacement and possible new radiator. We noticed that the radiator fan was constantly running, even if the engine wasn't but the key was in the "on" position. The fan shut off when the AC was turned on. We took it to our local dealer for diagnostics who said that wires had been crossed in the original repair, that they connected the wires so that the fan would always run and that we needed a new fan control module.
We tried out a new module but it didn't fix the problem, fan still runs all the time and is very loud. Husband thinks the fan might be blowing in the wrong direction: currently towards the radiator. Another problem, which may or may not be related, is that the AC only works well at high vehicle speeds. When traveling in town, the AC blows very mediocre cool and moist air. According to the original owner, they put in a new AC compressor and a new pressure switch and the AC apparently worked well.
Our 07 Mazda5 (80k) once in a while will start and run very roughly, and pressing the gas to the floor only gets it to 3,000 rpms.It has diminished power for climbing hills when this occurs. Everytime this happens if we shut the car off and let it sit (between 10 minutes - a couple hours) it starts and runs like a top. We have added drygas 2 of the times, but the last time it happened was on the same tank of gas that we added the drygas to. Check engine light comes on, but will go off after a day or so.
View 5 RepliesHaving issue with the hand brake? It works fine, just when I want to release it, the brake light stays on and when you drive away hand brake warning comes up and I have to play with the handle to make the brake light go away after release...
View 8 RepliesGot in my car yesterday and the airbag light on the dash stays on and a airbag fault message pops up in screen next to the speedo. What could be the problem?
View 3 RepliesI have just purchased a RX450h 2009 in the uk, I am really happy with it apart from the braking light on the right hand side of the dash comes on intermittently. I use the car in the mornings to drive 1.5m to the station. Why this maybe happening?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1997 F150 XLT 4.6, standard transmission. the problem is every time I push the clutch the 4x4 light on the lower right of the dash pops on the power windows and windshield wipers will not work, releasing the clutch everything and goes back to normal, I checked the relay that was clicking every time I push the clutch in and switched it out same problem. As of yesterday the problem has now reversed, when the clutch is released everything doesn't work and a 4x4 light pops on.
View 6 RepliesPicked up my new VW Golf 1.6 tdi match today, am still getting used to all the functions and gadgets on board, but what a great car it is, I absolutely love it.
Basically when i apply the hand brake, the rear fog light and red (press the brake) lights appear dimly on the dashboard??? I have checked and the fog light isn't on at the rear of the car.
Also I have noticed that when I indicate right, the same red (press the brake) light and cruise control light appears on the dash and flashes the same as the indicator dash light.
Two fixes: When raising the roof, stop it halfway. It reveals a round rubber bump stop that sits against the rear parcel shelf. The bumpstop can be adjusted by rotating it. If you raise the bump stop, it sits harder against the parcel shelf and reduces movement, thereby reducing noises. Also, lubricate all roof and boot (trunk) rubbers with glycerine (glycerol).
View 12 RepliesEvery morning when i leave to work my brake light begins to turn on, when i go over a bump or brake it shuts off. But only happens in the mornings when my car sits over night or long periods of time . What is the cause of this and how can it be replaced?
View 7 RepliesI almost bought a Gen 2 Prius, right before the introduction of the Gen 3. Then I waited a few years before I finally bought my Gen 3 Prius.
Don't let this out. But it's bothering me that I'm no longer at the top of the Standard Prius evolutionary chain.
The Gen 4 tribe is chipping rocks to make arrow heads... and using fire to cook meat and provide warmth...
Every time I go over a bump, the term Independent Rear Suspension pops in my head. An instrument panel that has multiple colors. I can only grunt and slobber and take what comfort I can from the pale light of the vacuum tube like glow of the Gen 3 instrument panel.
Just got my 2012 Prius. The interior plastic trim squeaks when pressed by hand/knee or during cornering and bumps. I'm talking about the center console and flying bridge thing, door panels, ect. I'm in the process of upgrading speakers and adding limit amounts of sound deadener. I thought about adding silicon grease on the plastic tabs that hold the plastic together....does that sound like a good idea. The main offender is the arm rest console box.
View 4 RepliesMy passenger side has been making thud noises on a number of occasions on my 01 Jetta 1.8t:
1. When I go over bumps, the front passenger side will make a loud thud noise.
2. When I take my foot off the brake, there will be a loud thud from the front passenger side as well.
3. When making left hand turns and I begin to turn the wheel back to return it to its original position, there is a thud coming from the front passenger side as well.
It does not continuously click like a bad CV joint would. All these symptoms came at the same time period.
I got a brand new 2011 Mazda 3 i Sport 4 door sedan in May and it's been great so far. Lately though, I have started to hear a sound coming from the back left hand side of the car. It really closely resembles the sound of tapping one's finger on a counter top. When I'm stopped, there's no noise but when I go I can hear it. As I go faster it goes faster as well and when I slow down it slows down. What is going on?
View 2 RepliesI have a 96 Mazda Protege DX. 1.5L engine, now with 161,000 miles. 5 speed manual transmission. I had it for 7 years. Originally bought it for $1900 with 121,000 miles.
This has been a problem for about 5 years. When I am at a red light or idling and I step on the brake, my idle gets rough and my engine feels like it is about to turn off. The idle does not bounce up and down. It just goes down to 400-500rpm from the normal 800-950rpm range.
Again, this only happens when I step on the brake while the car is not moving. It does not seem to happen when I coast in neutral and hit the brake to slow down. I raised the idle a bit, but it still does it. I could not find any vacuum leak around the brake booster and I know the brake booster works because I pumped my brakes while the car was off, and when I turn the car on, the brakes soften up.
Also, my brakes feel weak. I usually hit the brakes nearly to the floor board to stop the car. New pads, rotors are good. Brake fluid is at right level. Mechanics say nothing is wrong with my brakes.
Secondly, my belts screech at every start up. Lasts anywhere from 3-20 seconds. This has been happening for the entire 7 years I have owned the car. Mechanics replaced the serpentine belts twice in that time. Replaced a pulley and A/C compressor. I tried using WD40 but it doesn't effect it. Mechanics tell me that the belt tension is correct and they do not know why it still screeches.
I posted in the minor warranty repair thread that among other issues my car was developing a creak in the dash. This noise is coming from the very forward most part of the dash were it meets the bottom of the windscreen. I know this for certain because if I apply pressure with my hand here the noise stops.
My vehicle is scheduled for it's first service next month and I was going to have this fixed. Problem is after looking at the hma service site and pulling up the crash pad removal procedures, it looks like it is not affixed to anything at the top portion closest to the wind screen. Seems to just be sitting there, with no mounting bolts or anything.
Also to remove the crash pad it looks like the entire dash needs to be taken apart. The noise has progressively been getting worse starting at the front centre part of the dash, to now running along the entire length corner to corner.
I've got a '94 Mazda miata which is in good shape, with among other things a fair number of suspension upgrades. It drives really well, other than the clunk. On the occasional bump it clunks as if something is loose on the driver's side rear. I've checked the shocks, springs, jacked it up and inspected everything I can think of. I'm looking for wisdom from your decades of experience (in your terms wasted time) on what it might be.
View 3 RepliesMy brakes are working fine very smooth full of fluid. But for some reason sometimes when i take a hard right turn the stop brake fault pops up on my info screen. I live in nh and it is very cold/ ice too.
View 5 RepliesI have been trying to fix a problem with my 06 Mazda3 (almost 90K miles) for, maybe 7-9 months now. I just got home from getting my struts all changed for about $1200 (and I would guess I am $1700+ in the hole overall on it) without fixing the problem.
It started that going over bumps would cause the front passenger tire to "bottom out" and yield a quick "thud-thud-thud" that was very distinct from sound the driver side made, which was fewer, deeper "thuds". The, later, I got noises that initially sounded like the tire brushing against the wheel well when I made sharp right turns. The noise would be more pronounced when I would turn hard right from a stop (so I would be accelerating). I would also sometimes get the suspension to "shudder" on the passenger side when I would accelerate suddenly. It seems like the nose of the car dipping during acceleration is what gets the rubbing/grinding noise.
I have brought this up at 3 oil changes at different places and brought the car in multiple other times when it bothered me. Every time they have told me everything looks fine. The noise used to happen sporadically but I could do it intentionally if I tried. Now it has gotten worse and it even happens when I bring it to the tire place, so at least I seem less paranoid. I am comforted that everything looks in order, but have avoided even getting on the highway for months fearing my wheel would fly off.
Since this started, I have:- replaced the tires- rotated the tires- replaced the brakes- replaced the front shocks- replaced all of the struts (2 hours ago)
and in my ignorance and desperation tried to replace the wheel bearings, cv joints, and tie rods but was told they are fine. I had to push to get the shocks replaced, using the mileage as justification.
I am going to bring the car back to where I had my struts done 7am tomorrow morning, tell them it is still happening, and see if they can take another look. If no dice maybe I'll call car talk a few hours later.
Every time I come to a stop, my right front pops when I brake. Is this a brake problem or the old standard control bushings? Suspension or Brakes?
View 14 RepliesOn my wife's '06 Elantra, the hand brake is very hard to pull up, barely getting one click from it. I've done some looking around and have not been able to find a solution to the problem.
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