Mazda - Mazda3 :: Loud Clanking From Engine / Smoke Came From Under Hood
Jun 11, 2014
My car is the Speed3 and runs great or it was. I recently had my timing chain replaced and it was running great. Been 2 weeks since the repair. Today coming home from work and exiting the interstate I was in 5th shifted down into 4th then 3rd. When I came to a stop behind traffic the engine died. I restarted it and smoke came from under hood. Wouldn't start so I had to push it over. Waited 15 minutes as tried many times just warning battery down. After 15-20 minutes I tried to start and it started but loud clanking coming from the engine. Stopped and checked oil. It was dry! Got oil replaced (5 1/2 qts). and started. OK to start but clanking sound is still there. On hook to the garage. There was no oil light or anything. Just got done running 70+ mph on interstate for 12 miles no problem.
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Last time I took my car for service at 26K miles, I picked it up asked if all is well. "Yes all is well", and I am glad I can continue my weekend. I get in it, drive it out and upon reaching 40mph a clunking noise comes from the front tire. I mean to bring it back but eventually the noise is less. I assume something was wrong. Before I know it, it is 31K miles and i need to bring it back to service. I mention the front left tire. Turns out all 4 tires are cupped. They recomend changing the tires. I what to see if i can afford it and to see the tires myself. There is some shape alteration.
I take it easy because i think...if the tires are not great, i should be careful. Both the husband and I go to a shop, drink coffee, I think i can change the tires in a few days. On my way home, as I am trying to merge into traffic and get up to speed one huge puff of white smoke comes out, lights pop up (OBD blinking and solid slip light). My husband was right behind me with his Tundra. We are only a couple of miles away from the dealership and decide to bring it back...slowly nothing above 30mph. Service dept is closed and I have left it overnight.
Both of us agree...this should not be happening...specially when I have always serviced it regularly at the dealership and have always requested the recommended service.
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I have a 2004 Mazda 3. I just had it inspected and cabin air filter replaced. Now, my car makes a loud noise when the a/c is on and I'm accelerating. The noise sounds like a fan is vibrating /something is blocking it or like a motor is rev-ing that shouldn't be. There definitely is something wrong that wasn't there before the filter/s replaced. I watched a Youtube video on it... a real pain to replace them, but it looked like the fithad to be pretty tight... Could the filters have been installed incorrectly or some part not put back together correctly?
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About a month ago my 2006 Mazda3 (35,000 mi) started making loud creaking sounds everytime I turned and went over a bump. I took it into two mechanic shops and they both said the struts in the front were leaking fluid and needed to be replaced, in addition to the mounts and the swaybar link. I had all of this done, but when I got my car back it was making a new, very loud, clunking sound that I could also feel on one side when I drove over bumps. The sound was similar to the noise your car makes when the undercarriage hits the ground over a bump. I immediately took it back in, and the mechanic told me that the set of struts he had installed were "bad" and that he would put in new ones. This was done this weekend, but now my car is making the original creaking and groaning sound it did before, except much more audibly now. My car groans and creaks even if I turn the wheel while motionless.
I've heard that cars need time to "settle" into new struts. Does my car just need time to adjust?
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Last weekend we noticed that the engine temp was spiking. I still does. Sometimes it's a matter of just 8 blocks of driving before it's up, during which the heater doesn't want to blow hot air. Or, it will have a normal operating temp around town, and then start to spike when we hit the highway, and the heater works fine then (it even seems to take some of the temp off of the engine, like it should.) I took it to Autozone to have them run codes and it came back with a faulty coolant temperature sensor (I don't remember the CEL code.)
I have the replacement sensor and can replace it, but I'm not convinced that this is the problem anymore. Yesterday I had the coolant flushed, but I still have overheating issues. In fact, it seemed to be worse on the ride home from the coolant flush. Anyway, I noticed riding back from Autozone today that it felt like the engine was braking, as if my car were a manual. Now, I've ridden a few manuals before, and the braking I felt wasn't as heavy as the braking you feel when you release the accelerator and the clutch is still engaged, but it's similar. I think I'm a little overdue for a transmission fluid change. Could that be it?
My Mazda3 is a 2008 automatic with the smaller engine. It's stock.
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I have a 2007 Mazda 6 with 133000 miles on it. Recently it has started making a very loud sound that comes from under the hood. The sounds is comparable to the sound a semi truck makes if it is idling. The noise is not constant, usually happens when I put the car in park or if I'm driving at low speed (under 20mph). The sound lasts around one minute.
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I've got a 2009 Mazda3 hatchback, 31,000 miles. As I'm sure you know, it's very cold in the Northeast today. It was -12F on my drive in to work! I went out to lunch with a coworker today, and it had warmed up quite a bit to about 25F. As I was driving back to work - 40mph on a dry, straight stretch of road - my check engine light and traction control/stability control light came on. They aren't flashing, just steady. The traction control light will flash if I hit a particularly bad patch of slush, but it's never lit up on a dry road before.
Right after the light came on, the automatic transmission started feeling...funny. It was shifting hard, although downshifting felt okay. My coworker even noticed before I said anything. I don't think it was the traction control - it was specifically as the automatic transmission was shifting, not at any other time. I've read through the TSBs and didn't see anything relevant, and I've already made an appointment for tomorrow at the dealer. I've only got 5,000 miles left in my warranty so I'm a little nervous - the car has been terrific so far.
I would think the traction control light would be unrelated to the transmission, so I'm a little confused. Also, just to rule out a few other things - the last time I got gas was about a week ago and I still have a third of a tank. I don't think this is a gas cap problem or frozen gas, both of which I've experienced before (in other cars).
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I have a 2008 Mazda3. The car has a replaced engine with 24,000 miles on it. The engine was put in before I bought the car.The car and engine run like a top; except at certain RPMs and when in gear. When I have the car in any gear (auto), the engine makes a rougher noise at RPMs 1400-1700. As I apply more gas, the RPMs seem to get stuck at 1700, then it will break through and run smooth 2000+ RPMs. The engine sounds perfect at all RPMs except 1400-1700 when in gear. When I have it in park and rev the engine, the engine sounds perfect at all RPMs.
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I have a 2002 honda accord dx. We have had to get it fixed a few months ago. It had something to do with the cooling system. Ran fine until recently. It ran hot. I pulled over. Let it cool. Never happened again. I watch my temperature gauge and only drive it around town.
Today, I left it running for a short time while I picked up my son to keep the air conditioner running. As I was walking out the door, I heard a loud pop and smoke started pouring out from under the hood. I ran out and turned the car off immediately. I'm freaking out! I'm letting it cool now. I haven't popped the hood yet.
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OK, so go out to my 1994 Acura Legend, crank it, hear a loud hum that doesn't go away, then bluish smoke appears from under the hood. Immediately shut off the engine and open the hood to release the smoke. Haven't touched it since.
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I was heading back into town the other day after fueling I accelerated to pass a vehicle then a pop not as loud as a boot blow off followed by smoke entering the cab and under the hood. After going into neutral and keeping the engine on to maintain brake power I came to a rest in a safe area. I was reading online some people rebuild these but I'm a bit hesitant given the tight tolerances of this part and currently leaning towards replacing the cartridge they sell at riff raff (500 plus new hardware) instead of the whole turbo (850). Now it's time to start cleaning the engine/undercarriage after the 255 mile tow home.
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Ok I'm new here but I'll keep it simple. Driving around nyc (crazy winter weather lately) car started making a clanking noise every so often from the hood. (note it was getting harder to steer i have awd) Pulled over, it looked fine, kept driving, all of a sudden few blocks later a LOUD metal clashing noise came from under the hood. Pulled over turned the car off. Now the car starts fine, but the car makes that noise every time i shift to Forward/Reverse. Neutral is fine. Tranny went out? The car wont move....
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I have a 2005 Mazda3 with a 2.0 engine & a five speed transmission and 94,000 miles. Since June the car has twice not started, and so far three trips to two different Mazda dealers have not resolved the problem. The car had sat overnight, when I tried to start it the engine it turned over normally, and sounded normal, for just a second. Then it sounded like it started turning over much much faster than normal and the turning over sound changed to the sound of a high speed "whirl" (I don't know any other way to describe it).
In both cases the car just turned over and over and never sounded like it was going to start, resulting in a tow being needed. I've now found out that the dealer started the car by pushing the gas pedal to the floor, then cranking over the engine and then very slowly releasing the gas pedal until the engine started to fire. In the three months in between the non start days the car has started fine and it drives fine, lots of power, constant power with no surges or bogging down. The dealers have checked the compression, fuel PSI, and run computer diagnostics and everything appears to be normal. They also removed the value cover and say that as far as they can tell the fuel injectors seem to be functioning normally.
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I have a 2006 Mazda3 with about 112K miles on it and what I have noticed recently is that the steering shakes a lot. I looked up online for a possible cause and have found that wheel balancing could be a reason. I got wheels balanced and aligned but still there is still some vibration in the steering, so what do you think could be the reason? I have got rotors machined once before, like a year ago.
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I hear a noise- what I can best describe as a metallic plucking sound - like a low metallic chord being plucked- when my automatic transmission 2008 Mazda3 shifts from first to second gear. It only happens the first time. I don't hear it after the car ihas been driving and is warmed up. Any thoughts on what could be happening?
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My mazda 3i is cutting out while driving. I added fuel injector additive to gas and it still cuts out. Battery check is fine. What the issue can be. RPM loss
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I've noticed this winter that my Mazda 3's heater is barely working using fresh air. It definitely gives out warmer air than the outside temperature, but not by a whole lot. If I turn on air recirculation, then the air becomes appropriately warm. What would cause the heater to work one way and not the other?
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I own a mazda 3 6 speed and im curious as how to test my clutch for slippage. I read on a old forum that to put the e brake up and put the car in 1st gear and release the clutch. When i did that my car tried to move but after a couple seconds i put it back in neutral. Another forum said to do the same but put it in 3rd as i released the clutch it stalled right away.
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My mechanic told me today that one of my struts on my 2006 Mazda3 (with 110k miles) is leaking and that the strut needs to be replaced. Is this something that has an impact on safety, or is it something I can stretch for a while longer? Is the strut going to break if it is leaking? Also, wouldn't I have to replace both of them?
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Is it ok/better/worse to skip gears while accelerating in a manual car? Example would be starting from a stop in 1st and going strait from 1st to 3rd gear. , I have a mazda 3 and i usually run 1st up to 3500 rpm or so and when i hit 3rd its around 1400 when I let the clutch out.
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My 2007 Mazda3 2.0 engine had the CEL on. took to autozone... gas cap code cleared. After the code was cleared next times I filled up, whether empty or 1/4 tank, car wouldn't start unless gas pedal is pushed to floor. Took to dealer. Dealer said code was for gas cap and maybe a vacuum hose. Did something to gas cap and cleared code. Light back on 2 days later with hard start still there. Replaced vacuum hose... CEL off, now 2 days later CEL off but still has the startup after fill up problem. At $90/hr I'm hesitant to return to dealer.
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