Mazda - Mazda3 :: Cell Phone Charger Stuck In Socket
Aug 1, 2011
Had a Verizon cell phone charger get stuck in the socket of a Mazda 3? I have a 2010 Mazda 3 and plugged in my Verizon cell phone charger in over the weekend and now cannot get it out. It is really stuck. Looking for a Mazda TSB, if has been issued for this problem?
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While I was pulling out my charger from the port of my brand new 2013 Prius Two, the whole plastic housing the auxiliary/charger ripped off. Nothing was damaged, nor was any plastic bits pulled off. It just came apart. I tried for so long trying to put it back in, but to no avail. Here's the picture on Imgur: [URL] ....
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I had to break suddenly last night, and my phone (attached to the AUX cable at the time) bounced up under the wheel, gaining access by the accelerator and break pedals. I can hear it vibrate, but cannot feel the vibrations or touch the phone by reaching up under there - and I am worried I will disconnect the wires if I continue to rummage.
I removed the base of the steering wheel column, but did not find my phone, I guess it is wedged too far into the workings of my car Jeep Compass 2007.
I have two questions. could I remove the plastic facing by the windshield without dismantling the car (I can't tell from the manual)
is it safe to drive with my phone in this position? I'm worried it might disconnect the break fluid or something as I try to drive it to the mechanic.
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I always keep the charger in the socket during charges and even when I'm not charging the phone.
Is this necessarily a bad thing, is it running down my battery?
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Is it possible to rewire the front power outlet so that it shuts off when I turn off the car or remove the key.
All the new cell phone chargers light up and stay lit up when the car is off because the socket is always powered. It bugs me, though, and I'm getting sick of unplugging the charger every time I shut off the car.
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Proud owner of a 2012 Tig! My wife recently got a new cell phone and would like to remove the profile associated with her old phone from the hands-free Bluetooth (the old phone is inoperable). I don't see anything in the menu system. Is there any way to do that?
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The programmed code inside the smart key could be changed or erased if it is too close to your cell phone(same pocket). As a result u can't start your car any more.
I understand that Nissan has some these cases reported on its smart key(07 G35?) and it issue the statements that the key need to be at least "one inch away" from your cell.
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QI charger cutting out after a minute or so? I use QI charger at work and my phone works fine with it (Nexus 4), and when I put it in the car there is a little whirr sound and the orange light comes on and all is good. However after a minute or so the orange light starts flashing and the charging has stopped - even though the phone is definitely not fully charged (can have hardly any battery left). I had a "bumper" case on the phone and took that off just in case it was raising the phone slightly, but it doesn't seem to have made a lot of difference.
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I have a 2007 Honda Civic 2 dr. A couple years ago the manufacturer cell phone charger was blown in a few days of use with the cigarette lighter. The manufacturer replacement was next blown, and then a cheap off-brand was blown. Last fall, turning on the rear defroster began causing static interference on the FM stations. Several months later, I noticed that use of the cigarette lighter as a cell phone charger also caused radio static.
Next week, the rear windshield will be removed and replaced during a body repair. Should I ask for a replacement windshield, or just for attention to the connection with the electric? What else can be done about either of these causes of FM static?
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I am a new Prius 2010 owner - One question - I read in the manual you should not carry your remote control near your cell phone since it could cause decrease battery life. Does it matter if cell phone is off? I always carried by Camry remote control in my purse with my off cell phone. Camry is 7 years old and battery still works.
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I recently installed my satellite radio in my work truck. The truck is a 1999 Ford Louisville, tandem axle straight truck. I'm using the aux input on the stereo to connect to the satellite receiver. I'm getting a lot of buzzing thru the speakers. Gets worse when I'm using the phone charger and blower fan. I have it setup the exact same way in my other work truck which is a 2007 freighliner and have no issues. Is there any type of filter or something to solve the situation.
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Why my cig lighter and cell phone charger stopped working. I changed the fuse but it did not solve the problem. I don't smoke but I love to charge my cell phone when I go hunting overnight.
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When I plug up my phone and charger cord to either power outlet on my 2009 Camry the fuse blows. The charger cord and phone works in my other vehicles. I have checked other power cords in the Camry and it also blows the fuses. Would this be a relay that controls the fuses?
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Truck is a 02' F350 xlt crew cab, 7.3l, 4x4, 4R100, manual transfer case, 125,000 miles.
So me and the family were pulling out of the driveway tonight and electrical smoke starts blowing out the vents. My wife had just plugged a cheap USB charger into the auxiliary outlet above the cup holders for only 30 seconds. I immediately pulled back into the driveway, yanked the charger out, and found it had melted a hole in the side of it. No smoke had come from the charger or the outlet. The outlet looked fine and wasn't hot to the touch. I pulled the dash off real fast and started grabbing wires, feeling for anything that was hot or melting. I couldn't find anything.
I pulled the cover off under the steering wheel and couldn't find anything. I never turned the truck off while I was looking. After a few minutes, I noticed that the cover over the fuse panel was warm. Pulled the cover off and felt every fuse end and they were all cool to the touch. The relays in the middle were all pretty warm(almost hot to where I couldn't touch them). I was still faintly smelling the burnt smell and I couldn't tell if it was just stuck in my nose. I disconnected the batteries and we had to switch cars(heading to a bbq).
So I just got home and I'm going to start looking for any obvious signs first. What could be going on at the panel? So far, everything is still working. I haven't found any blown fuses.
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I have a 2005 Mazda3 with a 2.0 engine & a five speed transmission and 94,000 miles. Since June the car has twice not started, and so far three trips to two different Mazda dealers have not resolved the problem. The car had sat overnight, when I tried to start it the engine it turned over normally, and sounded normal, for just a second. Then it sounded like it started turning over much much faster than normal and the turning over sound changed to the sound of a high speed "whirl" (I don't know any other way to describe it).
In both cases the car just turned over and over and never sounded like it was going to start, resulting in a tow being needed. I've now found out that the dealer started the car by pushing the gas pedal to the floor, then cranking over the engine and then very slowly releasing the gas pedal until the engine started to fire. In the three months in between the non start days the car has started fine and it drives fine, lots of power, constant power with no surges or bogging down. The dealers have checked the compression, fuel PSI, and run computer diagnostics and everything appears to be normal. They also removed the value cover and say that as far as they can tell the fuel injectors seem to be functioning normally.
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I have a 2006 Mazda3 with about 112K miles on it and what I have noticed recently is that the steering shakes a lot. I looked up online for a possible cause and have found that wheel balancing could be a reason. I got wheels balanced and aligned but still there is still some vibration in the steering, so what do you think could be the reason? I have got rotors machined once before, like a year ago.
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I have a 2004 Mazda 3. I just had it inspected and cabin air filter replaced. Now, my car makes a loud noise when the a/c is on and I'm accelerating. The noise sounds like a fan is vibrating /something is blocking it or like a motor is rev-ing that shouldn't be. There definitely is something wrong that wasn't there before the filter/s replaced. I watched a Youtube video on it... a real pain to replace them, but it looked like the fithad to be pretty tight... Could the filters have been installed incorrectly or some part not put back together correctly?
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I hear a noise- what I can best describe as a metallic plucking sound - like a low metallic chord being plucked- when my automatic transmission 2008 Mazda3 shifts from first to second gear. It only happens the first time. I don't hear it after the car ihas been driving and is warmed up. Any thoughts on what could be happening?
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My mazda 3i is cutting out while driving. I added fuel injector additive to gas and it still cuts out. Battery check is fine. What the issue can be. RPM loss
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I've noticed this winter that my Mazda 3's heater is barely working using fresh air. It definitely gives out warmer air than the outside temperature, but not by a whole lot. If I turn on air recirculation, then the air becomes appropriately warm. What would cause the heater to work one way and not the other?
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I own a mazda 3 6 speed and im curious as how to test my clutch for slippage. I read on a old forum that to put the e brake up and put the car in 1st gear and release the clutch. When i did that my car tried to move but after a couple seconds i put it back in neutral. Another forum said to do the same but put it in 3rd as i released the clutch it stalled right away.
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