Mazda - Mazda3 :: 2006 - Making Loud Creaking Sounds While Turning And Over Bumps


Jul 11, 2011

About a month ago my 2006 Mazda3 (35,000 mi) started making loud creaking sounds everytime I turned and went over a bump. I took it into two mechanic shops and they both said the struts in the front were leaking fluid and needed to be replaced, in addition to the mounts and the swaybar link. I had all of this done, but when I got my car back it was making a new, very loud, clunking sound that I could also feel on one side when I drove over bumps. The sound was similar to the noise your car makes when the undercarriage hits the ground over a bump. I immediately took it back in, and the mechanic told me that the set of struts he had installed were "bad" and that he would put in new ones. This was done this weekend, but now my car is making the original creaking and groaning sound it did before, except much more audibly now. My car groans and creaks even if I turn the wheel while motionless.

I've heard that cars need time to "settle" into new struts. Does my car just need time to adjust?

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Mazda - Mazda3 :: Front Passenger Side Tire Bottoms Out When Going Over Bumps

I have been trying to fix a problem with my 06 Mazda3 (almost 90K miles) for, maybe 7-9 months now. I just got home from getting my struts all changed for about $1200 (and I would guess I am $1700+ in the hole overall on it) without fixing the problem.

It started that going over bumps would cause the front passenger tire to "bottom out" and yield a quick "thud-thud-thud" that was very distinct from sound the driver side made, which was fewer, deeper "thuds". The, later, I got noises that initially sounded like the tire brushing against the wheel well when I made sharp right turns. The noise would be more pronounced when I would turn hard right from a stop (so I would be accelerating). I would also sometimes get the suspension to "shudder" on the passenger side when I would accelerate suddenly. It seems like the nose of the car dipping during acceleration is what gets the rubbing/grinding noise.

I have brought this up at 3 oil changes at different places and brought the car in multiple other times when it bothered me. Every time they have told me everything looks fine. The noise used to happen sporadically but I could do it intentionally if I tried. Now it has gotten worse and it even happens when I bring it to the tire place, so at least I seem less paranoid. I am comforted that everything looks in order, but have avoided even getting on the highway for months fearing my wheel would fly off.

Since this started, I have:- replaced the tires- rotated the tires- replaced the brakes- replaced the front shocks- replaced all of the struts (2 hours ago)

and in my ignorance and desperation tried to replace the wheel bearings, cv joints, and tie rods but was told they are fine. I had to push to get the shocks replaced, using the mileage as justification.

I am going to bring the car back to where I had my struts done 7am tomorrow morning, tell them it is still happening, and see if they can take another look. If no dice maybe I'll call car talk a few hours later.

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I have a 2004 Mazda 3. I just had it inspected and cabin air filter replaced. Now, my car makes a loud noise when the a/c is on and I'm accelerating. The noise sounds like a fan is vibrating /something is blocking it or like a motor is rev-ing that shouldn't be. There definitely is something wrong that wasn't there before the filter/s replaced. I watched a Youtube video on it... a real pain to replace them, but it looked like the fithad to be pretty tight... Could the filters have been installed incorrectly or some part not put back together correctly?

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My car is the Speed3 and runs great or it was. I recently had my timing chain replaced and it was running great. Been 2 weeks since the repair. Today coming home from work and exiting the interstate I was in 5th shifted down into 4th then 3rd. When I came to a stop behind traffic the engine died. I restarted it and smoke came from under hood. Wouldn't start so I had to push it over. Waited 15 minutes as tried many times just warning battery down. After 15-20 minutes I tried to start and it started but loud clanking coming from the engine. Stopped and checked oil. It was dry! Got oil replaced (5 1/2 qts). and started. OK to start but clanking sound is still there. On hook to the garage. There was no oil light or anything. Just got done running 70+ mph on interstate for 12 miles no problem.

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I drive a 2002 Protege5 with about 125K miles. The suspension (struts and mounts) and brakes have been recently replaced and, with the arising of the Mystery Noise, checked by a mechanic as of last week. The noise sounds like a creaking or bumping in the front end of the vehicle, and comes primarily when slowing to a stop, when the brakes are applied or not. The pace slows as you stop. And it is not always predictable: the mechanic could not recreate the noise, but my wife and I hear it all the time.

I'm just speculating, but should we be looking at the bearings, axles, CV joints... or is this going to get even more expensive? What should I ask the mechanic to look at on this thing?

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I'm getting a squeaking/creaking noise from the front when turning and over some bumps. It has ST coilovers already and read a post from the previous owner here and he said the noise started after the install and he was told ot was the upper mounts??? Does this sound correct?? Also i noticed it when parked and just turning the wheel back and forth, popped the hood and had my son turn it and it did sound like it was coming from the upper strut area....

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When turning and going over a bump, regardless of speed or severity of the bump the door seals creaking? It's like the body twists or something.

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I have a very reliable Mazda 3 2006. For the last month I have had a problem with it refusing to start. I put the key in the ignition, turn it on and nothing. No start, no grinding, no clicking, no sound at all. Got a new battery and it happened again. The second AAA tow guy taught me to start the car by putting it in neutral ( with foot brake and hand brake on) and then start it, which does the trick when it won't start otherwise.

After the new battery and continued problems I asked my mechanic to check the electrical system. He did and said everything was fine.

I don't know whether this is a generator, alternator, computer or battery problem. And I don't know what I am doing to my car when I do the neutral set start. I don't know if I am hurting my car when I do that.

The problem is intermittent. There is no pattern: length of trip before I stop, length of time the car is not used, etc. What is causing this and what needs to be looked at/ fixed.

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Mazda - Mazda3 :: 2006 - Front Driver Side Tire Squeaks Like Old Mattress When Drive

My front driver's side tire squeaks like an old mattress when I drive, especially over any bumps or when turning. Could this be caused by a cracked wheel rim? I got new tires and had them rotated/balanced about 3 months ago. The squeaking started right before this so I asked the tire place to check it out, but they said they didn't see anything. The squeaking has become increasingly more annoying since then. Note: I also got new struts about 6 mos ago and then drove my car across country. Since then I have driven quite a bit in the city which involves very bad pot holes.

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Here's a recording of the engine sounds up close : [URL] .....

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I'm taking it in on Friday and hoping that the brakes just need to be bled a little or maybe the pedal just needs lube, but I'm worried it might be the booster or master cylinder---if it is one of these?

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I have a 2005 Mazda3 with a 2.0 engine & a five speed transmission and 94,000 miles. Since June the car has twice not started, and so far three trips to two different Mazda dealers have not resolved the problem. The car had sat overnight, when I tried to start it the engine it turned over normally, and sounded normal, for just a second. Then it sounded like it started turning over much much faster than normal and the turning over sound changed to the sound of a high speed "whirl" (I don't know any other way to describe it).

In both cases the car just turned over and over and never sounded like it was going to start, resulting in a tow being needed. I've now found out that the dealer started the car by pushing the gas pedal to the floor, then cranking over the engine and then very slowly releasing the gas pedal until the engine started to fire. In the three months in between the non start days the car has started fine and it drives fine, lots of power, constant power with no surges or bogging down. The dealers have checked the compression, fuel PSI, and run computer diagnostics and everything appears to be normal. They also removed the value cover and say that as far as they can tell the fuel injectors seem to be functioning normally.

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About a week ago I went over a dip in the road at about the speed limit and didn't realize how bad it was. Since then my rear end has been making a creaking/squeeking noise while driving or pushing on the car side to side. The struts seem to be ok, there is no bounce in the car. What this could be? I was thinking some sort of bushing somewhere?

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I've noticed this winter that my Mazda 3's heater is barely working using fresh air. It definitely gives out warmer air than the outside temperature, but not by a whole lot. If I turn on air recirculation, then the air becomes appropriately warm. What would cause the heater to work one way and not the other?

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