My 2004 Mazda3 is having an air conditioner issue. The driver side air vents blow hot air, but the passenger side air vents blow cool air (not as cool as I think it should be, just cooler than the hot side.) We had issues with it last summer that were repaired and freon was added at that time.
View 1 RepliesYesterday, I was dropping off a friend, and after a minute or so of being parked, when I started rolling forward again, this very loud, metal on metal screeching sound started coming from under my car, seemingly on the driver's side. I thought there was maybe something under the car, but I looked, and found nothing. When I tried to leave her street the noise got so loud I was scared and stopped again, and her neighbors came out because they heard it. Again, examination of the wheels, undercarriage, under the hood, it all looked normal. Turning the steering wheel didn't make the noise, but bouncing the hood made a slight squeak in the same area. So I parked it, and this morning had it towed to my mechanics. Of course, once it got there, they said it drove fine, they hear no noise, and saw nothing wrong with the brakes, tires, or axles. Basically, they think I'm crazy.It was lightly misting when this happened but not real rain or anything. The mechanic said they don't see any evidence that anything was stuck in there that might've gotten dislodged by the tow. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow, but is there anything I should have them check before that?
View 6 RepliesMy front driver's side tire squeaks like an old mattress when I drive, especially over any bumps or when turning. Could this be caused by a cracked wheel rim? I got new tires and had them rotated/balanced about 3 months ago. The squeaking started right before this so I asked the tire place to check it out, but they said they didn't see anything. The squeaking has become increasingly more annoying since then. Note: I also got new struts about 6 mos ago and then drove my car across country. Since then I have driven quite a bit in the city which involves very bad pot holes.
View 1 RepliesMy Hundai Azera 2009, was blowing heat on both side of a "dual system" during the cold months. Now that its warm weather when I turn on the A/C it blows cold on driver side vents , but hot air on passenger side. What do I need to correct this.
View 2 RepliesHistory - So my A/C was going out about 6 months ago. It would come in and out with cold air until eventually it just stopped all cold air and was only hot. Then the control knobs broke. I took it in and they told me I had to replace the control unit and that would fix all the issues. Well I got it back and the A/C was still blowing hot air (even though the knobs were now working).
So I took it back in and they said they couldn't find anything wrong and it must be this hairline crack that was leaking freon. they said they couldn't find the crack but loaded it up with freon and said i would have to 'wait it out' could be years could be a few weeks, they just didn't know. well, it worked for awhile but here i am in 102 degree heat and when I turn on the A/C in the really hot car the passenger side quickly blows cold air and the driver side takes about 20 minutes before it finally gets cold. What gives? I do not have dual temperature controls.
I seem to be having an issue with my air conditioning. I don't think it's an ID-10T error, but it is very peculiar.
My driver side vents blow hot or lukewarm air, however my passenger vents are ice cold. I have the 15 limited, so it does have the "dual" control, and as such I think the issue may be related to that.
Both controls are set to low, max fan, head only, and AC. The "Sync" and "Auto" buttons have no effect.
Any things I can check? I really do not want to bring it into the dealer as they treated me very poorly the last time I came in and my car was out for a month.
My battery was drained two nights ago, I jumped started it fine. However, the last two days, the truck has been hard to start, and battery seems low, even though the vehicle has been driven plenty. Today a new problem as arose, with the AC climate control. Driver side vents blow out very Hot Air, and Passenger Side blows out very cold Air. The setting on the digital climate control system says 60 F on both sides. Its possible the AC was on when the truck was jump started.
View 2 RepliesI have been trying to fix a problem with my 06 Mazda3 (almost 90K miles) for, maybe 7-9 months now. I just got home from getting my struts all changed for about $1200 (and I would guess I am $1700+ in the hole overall on it) without fixing the problem.
It started that going over bumps would cause the front passenger tire to "bottom out" and yield a quick "thud-thud-thud" that was very distinct from sound the driver side made, which was fewer, deeper "thuds". The, later, I got noises that initially sounded like the tire brushing against the wheel well when I made sharp right turns. The noise would be more pronounced when I would turn hard right from a stop (so I would be accelerating). I would also sometimes get the suspension to "shudder" on the passenger side when I would accelerate suddenly. It seems like the nose of the car dipping during acceleration is what gets the rubbing/grinding noise.
I have brought this up at 3 oil changes at different places and brought the car in multiple other times when it bothered me. Every time they have told me everything looks fine. The noise used to happen sporadically but I could do it intentionally if I tried. Now it has gotten worse and it even happens when I bring it to the tire place, so at least I seem less paranoid. I am comforted that everything looks in order, but have avoided even getting on the highway for months fearing my wheel would fly off.
Since this started, I have:- replaced the tires- rotated the tires- replaced the brakes- replaced the front shocks- replaced all of the struts (2 hours ago)
and in my ignorance and desperation tried to replace the wheel bearings, cv joints, and tie rods but was told they are fine. I had to push to get the shocks replaced, using the mileage as justification.
I am going to bring the car back to where I had my struts done 7am tomorrow morning, tell them it is still happening, and see if they can take another look. If no dice maybe I'll call car talk a few hours later.
I got a brand new 2011 Mazda 3 i Sport 4 door sedan in May and it's been great so far. Lately though, I have started to hear a sound coming from the back left hand side of the car. It really closely resembles the sound of tapping one's finger on a counter top. When I'm stopped, there's no noise but when I go I can hear it. As I go faster it goes faster as well and when I slow down it slows down. What is going on?
View 2 RepliesI have 2006 GX470 with Nav. A/C does not blow cold from driver side , I replaced Air mix servo, but still same problem. heater is working both side .
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Chevy Venture and the blower (Vent, AC, Heater, doesn't matter) is only blowing air out of the left or driver side of the van, nothing on the passenger side vents. There aren't 2 blower motors, are there? Is a door shut that shouldn't be? This van doesn't have dual climate control like my GM cars do. The rear controls work fine for the 2nd row passengers. Again, not tied to any blower speed or heat vs. AC. Same regardless. Nothing on the passenger side.
View 7 RepliesJust started experiencing an AC problem. First started with diminished cooling and airflow. Checked the filter and it was dirty, so replaced it. Airflow is completely restored however the air from the drivers side vents is significantly warmer than the passenger side vents.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Mazda 3 with 90K miles. Brakes, rotors, and rear calipers were replaced about two months ago. About a month after, I started noticing a clattering sound coming from the left rear wheel whenever I drove over rough road. (It sounds like an aluminum pot lid dropping onto the pot.) The shop that did the original brake work took 4 visits to get everything done. Instead of going back, I went to another mechanic who said the left caliper was loose. He showed me how he could shake it. He said the bolts were tight so it wasn't a safety issue.
I went back to the original shop for repair but they could not reproduce the noise and said the brakes/calipers were fine.
The noise remained. I went to a third shop which checked the caliper and said it was fine, but said that I needed new shocks. The mechanic had the car on the lift and was able to reproduce a similar noise on both rear wheels when he hit them with a rubber mallet.
The first mechanic insists the caliper is bad. The second insists it's the shocks.
Had a few warm days last week and noticed a lack of cooling from the HVAC system. Local temps cooled off a bit but I decided to see what I could find out before I got hot again.
Started playing with the system in the driveway and discovered good cooling capacity on the passenger side but just mildly cool air coming out of the drivers side vents. This seemed to be true on both the front and back. I hooked by laptop up and noticed single digit temps at the evaporator. When I brought the temps down on the climate control the right side exchanger would get down to around 12C but the Left would struggle to get to 22C and if I moved the passenger side requested temp up the drivers side exchanger temp would follow even though the requested temp on the drivers side was low. There was a display for the Left and Right regulating valves but they seemed parked at 0.0 unless I made a cabin temp change.
I am guessing the left regulating valve is the problem but know nothing of how this system works. 2004 Phaeton V8 ....
The right hand A/C vent on the driver's side dash is suddenly giving me no air at all. The other 3 in front blow cool air just fine. How to check this out? (I did just check out the cabin filter in case it had something to do with a block there). I don't know where to look. This is a new problem for my 2007 Prius.
The A/C for the rear passengers has always been very weak. Do others find this to be true also? I keep thinking that extending the air outlets under the seats somehow might work.
The A/C on my 2004 Accord has started blowing warm air out of the 2 driver side vents, but still blows cold air out of the 2 passenger side vents. It also occasionally blows condensation out of the 2 cold passenger vents. When this same thing happened last summer, the condenser and compressor were replaced within 3 weeks of each other. It is less than a year later and the same problem is occurring. Even more odd; every once in a while the 2 driver side vents will blow cold for just a few minutes, then revert to blowing warm air. The car does not have dual climate controls.
View 1 RepliesWhen I turn on the air conditioning, the driver's side works well, but the passenger's side vents blow warm air. What could this mean and could I fix it from home?
View 1 RepliesAbridged version: My fans won't blow any air out of the vents. If I spin the blower/fan motor that is behind the glove compartment, it'll work again. But the cycle repeats itself every time I turn the car on.
View 3 RepliesJust had the truck in the dealership for a bad blend door/ heater core case. Heat would only blow out warm on the passenger side, blows cold on drivers side. Dealership replaced the case, heat works normal on both sides now. It was a little warm out yesterday so i turned on the A/C, frosty cold on passenger side, warm on drivers side, temperature does change when i select different temperatures (dual zone.)
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Mazda3 with a 2.0 engine & a five speed transmission and 94,000 miles. Since June the car has twice not started, and so far three trips to two different Mazda dealers have not resolved the problem. The car had sat overnight, when I tried to start it the engine it turned over normally, and sounded normal, for just a second. Then it sounded like it started turning over much much faster than normal and the turning over sound changed to the sound of a high speed "whirl" (I don't know any other way to describe it).
In both cases the car just turned over and over and never sounded like it was going to start, resulting in a tow being needed. I've now found out that the dealer started the car by pushing the gas pedal to the floor, then cranking over the engine and then very slowly releasing the gas pedal until the engine started to fire. In the three months in between the non start days the car has started fine and it drives fine, lots of power, constant power with no surges or bogging down. The dealers have checked the compression, fuel PSI, and run computer diagnostics and everything appears to be normal. They also removed the value cover and say that as far as they can tell the fuel injectors seem to be functioning normally.
I have an 09 Limited with the dual automatic climate control. It finally got cool enough to start running the heater. The passenger side vents are throwing cold air instead of warm like the drivers side. This includes the windshield defroster. I'm thinking there is a diverter "somewhere" that is not working properly.
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