Mazda - Mazda3 :: 2004 - Clattering Sound Coming From Left Rear Wheel
May 27, 2012
I have a 2004 Mazda 3 with 90K miles. Brakes, rotors, and rear calipers were replaced about two months ago. About a month after, I started noticing a clattering sound coming from the left rear wheel whenever I drove over rough road. (It sounds like an aluminum pot lid dropping onto the pot.) The shop that did the original brake work took 4 visits to get everything done. Instead of going back, I went to another mechanic who said the left caliper was loose. He showed me how he could shake it. He said the bolts were tight so it wasn't a safety issue.
I went back to the original shop for repair but they could not reproduce the noise and said the brakes/calipers were fine.
The noise remained. I went to a third shop which checked the caliper and said it was fine, but said that I needed new shocks. The mechanic had the car on the lift and was able to reproduce a similar noise on both rear wheels when he hit them with a rubber mallet.
The first mechanic insists the caliper is bad. The second insists it's the shocks.
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A few months ago I bought a used 2008 Mazda3s sedan, and ever since I get an intermittent burning rubber smell from my rear left wheel. I recently got new tires, brake pads, and had the rotors turned, with no change.
The smell does not always happen, it will be there maybe one out of 3 or 4 times, and it is more likely to happen after long drives (e.g., one hour highway driving).
The wheel well also feels very hot. The obvious answer would be that the brake caliper is sticking, causing friction, heat, and the burning smell. However, if I touch the rotor it feels the same lukewarm temperature as the other three.
One additional thought is that this is caused by the exhaust, which is right next to this wheel well. I have noticed that the area of the floor of the trunk right above the exhaust gets very hot, which I had not seen in any other car I owned.
Could it be that the exhaust is causing the rubber of the tire (or something else) to overheat and smell bad? Visually, it does not look like the tire has a different wear or different appearance, compared to any other one.
This may or may not be related: my handbrake seems to be useless If I leave it on I can easily drive with little to no noticeable slowdown... I guess the previous owner did not read the part of the manual where it says you have to release the handbrake before you drive.
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I got a brand new 2011 Mazda 3 i Sport 4 door sedan in May and it's been great so far. Lately though, I have started to hear a sound coming from the back left hand side of the car. It really closely resembles the sound of tapping one's finger on a counter top. When I'm stopped, there's no noise but when I go I can hear it. As I go faster it goes faster as well and when I slow down it slows down. What is going on?
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My wife's 2007 Mazda3 is making a very slight clicking sound every while coming out of left turns. It's somewhat intermittent, only happening every few turns. I did a quick visual inspection and noticed that there was grease around the CV boot. The problem started about five days ago (or at least the noise started appearing five days ago). Three weeks ago I had the struts replaced, so I'm wondering if they could have torn the boot while replacing the struts, or if they didn't notice the issue.
Is the CV joint shot, considering this is only an intermittent sound, or is there something else that could be happening? Also, what is a typical repair cost for a CV joint (or half axle replacement) on a 2007 Mazda3?
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I have a 2006 Mazda 3 Hatchback. We recently had new tires put on and an alignment both were needed pretty bad. Before the work the car had a pretty bad vibration to begin with. After the car ran smooth for about a week and then my described it having a vibration and thought something fell off. We took it back to the shop and they checked it over and rebalanced the tires and suspected that maybe a weight or two fell off.
The car ran fine again and then this past weekend I was driving and noticed that around 60-70 the car vibrated but not consistently, as it slowed from 70 to 60 it seemed to vibrate more. I also noticed around 25 that it had the vibration occasionally and could feel a slight jerking or tug to the left.
My guess is I have a broken or cracked motor mount since its not consistent at any speed. My reasoning is that at the lower as I accelerate the engine rpms are causing the jerking and as I slow down the decrease in rpms is causing the vibration.
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I"m getting a tapping sound coming from the dash. It happens every time I start the car(hot or cold engine) and lasts for about 10 seconds. It also happens when I adjust the fan speed for the heater/AC, NOT when I first turn the blower motor on. The noise was completely gone after I removed the heater fuse.
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Yesterday, I was dropping off a friend, and after a minute or so of being parked, when I started rolling forward again, this very loud, metal on metal screeching sound started coming from under my car, seemingly on the driver's side. I thought there was maybe something under the car, but I looked, and found nothing. When I tried to leave her street the noise got so loud I was scared and stopped again, and her neighbors came out because they heard it. Again, examination of the wheels, undercarriage, under the hood, it all looked normal. Turning the steering wheel didn't make the noise, but bouncing the hood made a slight squeak in the same area. So I parked it, and this morning had it towed to my mechanics. Of course, once it got there, they said it drove fine, they hear no noise, and saw nothing wrong with the brakes, tires, or axles. Basically, they think I'm crazy.It was lightly misting when this happened but not real rain or anything. The mechanic said they don't see any evidence that anything was stuck in there that might've gotten dislodged by the tow. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow, but is there anything I should have them check before that?
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On my way into work this morning, I started to notice a rattling sound coming from my left rear wheel. By the end of my :45 min drive, it was a loud continuous bang. After limping the car to my office, I inspected the recently repaired rear shock to find the bolts securing it to the vehicle were gone!
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My 99 super duty v-10 has 227,000 miles. It was a former UHaul unit but seems in good shape considering the abuse it's probably had! I recently started hearing a clattering sound coming from the rear.
Not just turning but in straight line. Very loud even at 2-3 mph, more pronounced in deceleration. I can best describe it as someone shaking a metal pail with about a half dozen lug nuts in it.
Previous threads point at the limited slip. I called the Uhaul after sales desk and he right away said put some friction modifier in and do figure. Eights in the parking lot. I did and The sound is still there.
One poster said the factory LS is garbage and not worth rebuilding. They mentioned the TruTrac as a good replacement and I guess I'll investigate that further.
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I have a 2006 Mazda3 with about 112K miles on it and what I have noticed recently is that the steering shakes a lot. I looked up online for a possible cause and have found that wheel balancing could be a reason. I got wheels balanced and aligned but still there is still some vibration in the steering, so what do you think could be the reason? I have got rotors machined once before, like a year ago.
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I have a 2008 Mazda3 (2.3L automatic, 34K miles), which has recently been annoying me.. The problem started about 4 months ago, when I got new tires and a brake job (pads + rotor resurfacing). Ever since, it has been having intermittent vibrations. I feel the vibrations mostly on the floor, but sometimes also on the steering wheel. Here's what I've done so far:
When the vibrations started, i thought it was a problem with the new tires. I had them re-balanced 3 times at two different places, with no improvement. I then took the car to the dealer, who replaced two of the three engine mounts (it appears these tend to break easily on this model). This seemed to improve the situation for about half a day, and then it went back to the same. I took it back to the dealer, who could not find anything wrong. Not being satisfied, I took it to a different dealer, who could also not find anything wrong.
So, I am now stuck with this vibration.. It is not always there, and not always of the same magnitude... it seems to be more likely to happen in the morning after a colder night (well, as cold as it gets in Los Angeles). It is most likely to be felt at around 45-50mph, but you can also feel it at higher speed sometimes. A couple of times I could definitely feel it at around 25mph. Also, I've noticed that the engine vibrates when the car is stopped, at around 1500-1800rpm (e.g. when I first turn it on). The dealer claims that this is natural for a 4-cyl engine, but I had never felt a vibration before.
My gut feeling is that this is something related to the engine, but two different dealers could not find a problem... since this is intermittent, it is hard to nail down I guess.
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For the last few weeks my car has been making a winding sound at highway speeds. It sounds as if it is winding out at high rpms but it isn't. When I let off the gas, the sound doesn't decrease until the car begins to slow significantly. It also seems not to make the sound if I am going around a right hand curve. The car is a 2005 5-speed mazda 3.
What the problem might be? And is it safe to drive 600 miles back home before having it checked out. With the holiday, I don't have many options.
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I'm having a problem with my 2012 Mazda3 (automatic, non-skyactive model) that others seem to be complaining about on the online forums, but there seems to be no consensus.
About 10,000 miles into owning the car, it started making a sort of high-pitched gargling sound when I accelerate and the tachometer reads 1500-1900 RPMs. At first, the sound occurred sporadically when I was accelerating under these conditions, but now, at 28,000 miles, it's happening almost every time I accelerate between 1500-1900 RPMs. Here are a few more facts:
The engine must be warm. The car must be in drive (I cannot replicate it in neutral or park)The sound occurs regardless of whether the AC is on
I took it to the dealer 3 times. The first time, they changed the belt, and that worked for about 1000 miles. The second time, they told me that the noise is normal, and I should not worry. The third time, I took it to a different dealer, and they put a "dressing" on the belt. That worked for about 600 miles. Now the sound is back again, and it's driving me nuts. It definitely doesn't sound normal. If I test drove a car at 28,000 that made this sound, I definitely wouldn't buy it.
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My 2004 Mazda3 is having an air conditioner issue. The driver side air vents blow hot air, but the passenger side air vents blow cool air (not as cool as I think it should be, just cooler than the hot side.) We had issues with it last summer that were repaired and freon was added at that time.
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My problem occured at beginning of 5,000 mile trek to pick up my wife at her Florida friends place and make some visits heading north. The solution (not done until yesterday at Lexus) is appearing quite often now.
In fact at the feet of my Service Person's desk was failed part which is a plastic cover under the car for the fuel tank which loses rubber dampening lead strip over time. Then it clatters in thw wind (especially at Hwy. speeds) and telegraphs up thru' door and frame channels to seem like it comes from roof.
I thought my hearing bad at detection when I found this out but apparently they have speant all kinds of wasted time with roof channels/ rubber strip replacements (which I had done on right side of car and had done left side of car yesterday before we figured this thing our)/power moon roof assemblies. The problem is under the car.
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Very annoying noise I have on the rear left wheel of my 2001 Hyundai accent. About a year ago I noticed a rhythmic noise coming from the rear left wheel of my car. I figured the car had done around 130K kms and was probably needing new bearing assemblies. This didn't fix the noise. So I thought maybe it was the struts or the wheels. Not either of those.. changed the struts and got the wheels balanced.
I changed the rear brakes shoes.. didn't work. So a few months went by and I figured I would try and get the drums machined. So I got them skimmed slightly but this did nothing. Finally I decided to that maybe the bearing was dodgy so I put a new on... and you guessed it.. The noise is still there.
The noise is always present whether I am braking or not. As I speed up the noise is more prevalent. Basically the noise is related to the rotation of the wheel. My next plan of attack is to put new brake shoes on with new brake drums. I don't know what else I can try.
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My car seems to make a tick tick tick sound coming from the left front wheel well, but it only occurs when I make right turns. Not left or when driving straight. Could this be a bad cv joint or wheel bearing? Again, only happens when making right turns and I believe at any speed and the sound interval I believe is shorter (faster tick tick) at higher speeds. Also, the vehicle is a 2001 manual transmission and pressing the clutch I believe (cant confirm) stops or slows the sound.
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Vehicle: 2011 Toyota Matrix XR 4-door hatchback ... A few days ago I noticed that my car started making an odd, very noticeable squeaking noise. The noise is coming from my rear left-hand wheel. It's audible from outside the car, and from inside with the windows down.
The wheel makes a squeak each time it turns, so the frequency increases with higher speed. It's audible from ~15km/h, below which the squeak is barely audible, up to ~70km/h, above which I can't hear it any more, maybe because of wind. It makes a slightly different kind of squeak from the same spot when I'm backing up. There is no other noise of any kind (nothing unusual is heard with the engine on, and the car stationary). There are no other problems at all with the vehicle. It's been about 4000km since my last oil change, I have that coming up soon, but I doubt that is the cause of this, since it's coming from the wheel.
What I can do is take off the wheel and take some pictures of the wheel and breaks to show ....
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My wife has a 2002 Hyundai Elantra that has a rotational noise coming from the left rear wheel. We just got it back from the shop where they replaced the left front wheel bearing and rear brakes/rotors, and the right/rear wheel bearing was replaced about a year ago. It's a thumping noise that speeds up proportionally to the speed of the car. Normally I'd expect a bad tire or warped rotor, but the tires are relatively new and we didn't notice the problem before we took it to the shop last week (though it's possible we weren't hearing it over the wheel bearing noise they fixed). Is it possible we got a bad rotor, or the shop did something wrong? Or could this be something new entirely (which would be entirely typical for this car).
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I've noticed a creaking sound coming from the left front wheel when I go over a couple of particularly large speed bumps. I have had a lot of problems with the suspension in this car, and have replaced the front struts, the front right control arm, and the sway bar links and bushings. My best guess is that this noise is coming from the front left control arm, as it has not been replaced, although my current mechanic says that the front left control arm is fine. Also, it has been under 10 F here the past few days, so this could also just be a result of the cold weather.
Video of the noise: [URL] ....
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I have pushed the back windshield, and haven't gotten a peep anywhere, so it's not that. It's coming from the outside, because it is so much louder driving slower with the windows down. It appears to be coming from the rear left of the car. It's a definite "creak," and not a "thunk." Sounds like creepy stairs being walked over repeatedly...I haven't investigated hard enough to really pin point the direct spot, but it would sound to me like it has something to do with the suspension in the back left. However, it's not any more prominent when I hit a bump than it is just accelerating or decelerating, so that also leads me away from it being a suspension issue. I know I should look further into it to locate the spot.
A little more info on the car : 2006 Sonata LX ... 67,000 miles (no warranty)
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