Mazda - B4000 :: Hesitation And Surge After 25 Mph
Oct 8, 2013
After having my whole clutch system replaced..the truck now hesitates after 25mph shift 35, 45 and so, on it does not have a rough idle, it is like it has a hard time going then gets a burst of gas or air or will power and runs great till the next shift..,after replacing air filter, fuel filter. fuel pump & regulator, tps sensor co2 sensors and cleaning maf/map and fuel injectors, is using lots of gas too..the truck is still not happy, spent hours checking for pinched vacuum or fuel or eclectically lines.. Oddest thing, it won't throw any codes.. 1994 mazda b4000...
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I have a 2000 Mazda B4000 with 2 little problems I don't know anything about. First is when I go to start the truck it takes a long time to turn over. A friend of mine said that a valve is not maintaining fuel pressure so the fuel is not sitting ready for the starter when I go to start up. But if i engage the key for a few seconds and time it right it will turn over easily (apparently allowing the fuel pressure to build to the appropriate level). Is this a little valve or gasket or something I can replace to maintain the pressure?
Second, when I'm coming from a stop or accelerating out of a slow roll there is a 'shudder' or 'shiver' in the drivetrain that almost feels like the shift from 1st to 2nd is just kinda lumpy. It also happens if I come to an abrupt stop, so gearing down into 1st. It doesn't feel like something that is getting worse, but I don't want it to be causing damage or have my driveshaft snap or something.Other than that this truck seems really well maintained by the previous owner, and a mechanically inclined friend of mine said everything else looks.
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I've traced a 0.3-amp parasitic drain to the audio power amp (fuse #16, 20A). Pulling the fuse, the radio still works (it's on fuse #15) but then there's no sound from the speakers. (There's also no current drain. I'm weighing if it's more important for the truck to run or to sound good.)
I replaced the radio a month ago. It was definitely not working right, and the new radio definitely is. With the #16 fuse in place, the sound out of front and back speakers was great. "Was" because if I leave the fuse in, the battery gets drained in a few days, so the fuse is now out.
Where the audio amp is. My Haynes manual doesn't say. The amp has no user controls. It just takes the radio's output and feeds audio to the front and back speakers. The #16 fuse is what gives the amp power. Some online posts say it's under the glove box, some say behind the rear right speaker. All agree it's a bear to access.
So a few questions:
Why the power amp would be drawing current even when the truck and radio are powered off?
How does one troubleshoot this, short of replacing the power amp, which of course I don't have an extra lying around and wouldn't want to replace anyway as it's otherwise working great.
What do you think of installing a switch on the audio power amp circuit so that when the truck is parked, I switch it off, and no current drain, but when the truck is driven, I switch it on, letting me hear the radio or CD. This is obviously a kludge/ghetto solution, but the advantage is that I don't have to access or replace the audio amp. I want to keep using the fuse, of course, so am looking for a way to wire a switch into the fuse box while keeping the fuse in the circuit. If I knew which wire goes between the fuse and the audio amp, I'd splice a switch there, but I don't, and again, the Haynes manual is not useful.
1994 B4000, extended cab, bought in 1996....
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So i just bought a b4000 pickup 5spd .. Anyway the truck has eletrical 4x4 with manual hubs. When i turn the switch nothing happens. The 4wd/4wd low lights both flash 6x then go off then flash again while running , driving, koeo, anytime like an obd1 check engine light code flashing. Anyway i checked the wiring for the 4wd switch no power, went to the fuse interior no pwr, went to the engine fuse box power. You don't hear the transfer case engage at all as well.
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So Im working on a 1998 mazda b4000, frost plug blew out going down the highway changed the engine because it got cooked pretty bad. The wrecker engine I got for what ever reason will only run good if the driver side of coil pack is done 5,6,4 any other order truck wont run at all. Misses enough to shake the truck at around 80 km/hr otherwise its pretty good. Also the engine I got came factory with no egr.... no provisions nothing. exhaust manifold capped off, seemed kinda odd.
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I just bought my 2002 camry 9 months ago and have had it into at least 4 different shops and the last two visits were a toyota dealership. Problem, traveling at 30'- 40'mph, car has slight hesitation and slight surge feel. It feels as if passenger is messing with a driver's ed brake? Problem is sporadically intermittent. Dealership did update ECM, but not sure what they did. What to do next so my car will roll smoothly and I can love my camry?
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Experiencing a low speed transmission surge or hesitation when applying first applying the gas at parking lot speeds.? I especially notice it when traveling downhill or a slight decline. The motor revs as if in neutral then the transmission catches on. I mentioned it to the dealer at the 1000 mile check up and they said they could not find anything wrong. I'm getting ready to take it in for the 5000 mile service.
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I recently picked up a 2000 Excursion with the 5.4 V8. Engine has 150,000. I got it cheap because it has a surging problem over 1500 RPM. This problem is intermittent.
I have 1 DTC. P1000 which is OBDII checks not complete. I cannot clear this even using the factory procedures. FYI..I have a snap on solus scanner. I think this is a voltage problem, If you try to start the engine with the scanner plugged in, the scanner shuts off, so I'm thinking the PCM loses battery power supply when the starter engages, resetting the PCM.
This problem is NOT a miss.... something isn't opening or shutting off above 1500 RPM. This truck doesn't have an EGR system, it has the EVAP system. This may be the problem, thats why I'm here. OK. heres a list of what I've replaced since I started working on it.
Engine oil and filter
air filter
fuel filter
8 COP's
8 plugs gapped properly
cam position sensor
IAC sensor
MAF sensor
Removed throttle body and cleaned.
Vacuum checks. 22" at purge valve,fuel dia, and vacuum canister
Checking with the scanner at 1500 RPM with problem
SFtrim1% bounces between5-15
SFtrim2% bounces between2-0
LFtrim1% bounces between11-13
LFtrim2% bounces between 5-6
O2S11(mv) bounces between 200-781
O2S21(mv) bounces between 200-800
Ssystem is in closed loop holding throttle at 1500 RPM... Note engine surges when at the RPM or above. I'm thinking the engine is lean, not sure how to read the trim numbers...
Idle is fine ... Problem is intermittent ... Also noticed that engine will only advance spark to 30 degrees @2000 RPM during this problem. I have seen it advance to 38-40 degrees when I do not have this problem, so I kind of understand the power loss,knock etc due to the timing, my question is whats causing it to do this?
EVAP question.... The purge valve should open according to PCM command a certain value, correct? I can monitor the duty cycle % but cannot activate and check proper duty cycle through scanner . When I try to I get an error message of module error -unspecified.
Disconnected hoses at purge valve,Full manifold vacumn on one, nothing on other, no flow through purge valve, but scanner shows 30% duty cycle. I would think the should be a little flow at 30% Maybe my problem? Troubleshoot procedure for the EVAP would be good.
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my 2006 GX has 95000 miles and recently i've noticed a slight hesitation followed by a slight surge in speed while driving at a constant speed. it almost feels like i'm pushing the accelerator then releasing it. its a very mild difference but i'm guessing tranny and have 5k left on my warranty. it occurs at a variety of different speeds but most noticeable at about 35-40mph and up around 55mph.
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Have 2002 mazda protege 5 . During acceleration at 3000 rpm the engine hesitates. Computer said o2 sensor, replaced it but that wasn't it. Drilled out both catalytic, that wasn't it. Found hole in mass air flow tube, figured that is it. I haven't replaced that yet, however I used gorilla tape thinking it would be a temporary fix but that didn't work. I know I need to replace that tube, but think that it may now be a fuel pump issue??
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Started my car yesterday and as I was accelerating, it made a very loud noise. It sounds like normal engine acceleration noise, only ten times louder. It was present whenever I accelerated, but not when I was coasting or idling, and not when the car was in neutral. (It's a stick shift.) During acceleration, there was a little hesitation and a little jerkiness, but not horrible. The problem came on suddenly - no problems with the car before yesterday.
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I have a 2000 b 4000 broken armrest trying everything to fix keeps breaking on plastic below. And how long before it breaks again!!! Ford ....
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My 94 B4000 (4.0L ohv)is acting weird. If I let it sit for more than a day, it won't start. I pop the intake tube off, squirt some gas in the plenum, and away she goes. It starts all day long after that. I can hear the fuel pump running. Is there a possibility there is a fuel pressure regulator leaking down, kinda like a pump losing it's prime? Or am I looking at dropping the tank for a new fuel pump??? It's getting close to winter up here (gonna snow anytime) and I don't need this kind of trouble when it's cold and snowy.
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This interference correlates directly to tire rotation speed, engine rpm has no effect. Under about 5mph it won't make the noise, but over that you hear a pop more or less for every rotation of the tire and when you hit say 50mph it is just a steady static noise on AM only. Haven't pulled the head unit yet, checked several body grounds under the hood and all are good. Don't know if a damaged wheel sensor could cause an issue or not.
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I have a 1999 B4000 V6 4.0L with 78K miles on it. I recently had P0171 and P0174 error codes come up. I replaced the MAF sensor and have not had the codes return but now the truck will basically stalls out when sitting at a stop light. It does not do it all the time just randomly. It has never done it when engine is cool but only once up to temp. The idle is smooth at cold engine but begins to get rougher once warmed up (nothing too bad just noticeable). I cleaned the IAC with MAF cleaner but no joy. I reseated all plug cables at the coil but no change. RPM around 600-700 then fluctuates up a bit then truck will stall quickly( I usually cannot put other foot on gas in time to get it to increase RPM before it dies)....
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My 1992 Toyota, Celica had developed a really weird idle surge. The idle surges between 500 to 750 rpm. The surge goes away with the AC on and it idles steady at 900 Rpm. It also has a slight off idle bog that may just be another symptom of the weird idle.
I did the diagnostic test today and it doesn't flash any codes. I pulled the EGR valve off and cleaned the gunk out of it and it didn't make any difference. I tried to check the timing and it idles so bad the timing bounces 7-10 degrees with the surge. When I did the jumper to check the timing it would kill the engine. The plugs and wires are new with in a couple thousand miles. It runs fine above idle and pulls to redline easily in the lower gears.
Yesterday when I was messing with it I had the car running with the air boot from the air cleaner to throttle body off. I sprayed carb cleaner into throttle body and it seems to clear up a little bit. Then it went back to surging again.
I tried to pull the TPS off yesterday and of course the bottom screw stripped out. Now I will have to pull the throttle body off to get the screw out. I wish it would throw a code so I could have it give me a clue.
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When accelerating hard I seem to have to consiously let up on the gas prior to clutch actuation in order to avoid having the engine "overshoot" a couple hundred rpm between shifts. Is this normal for the 1.8t?
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Lately my GTI has had intermittent surges in 1st gear w/ just a light tap of the gas and low RPMs. The car is not tuned.
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My 90 lumina euro 3.1 has idle surge after it warms up. fluctuates between 600 and 1200 rpm when in drive. When you first get on the throttle it wants to die. Once you get past that it runs smooth while driving. Ive also notice that it tries to "buck" when its at lower rpm and barely on the throttle while pulling.
I can't seem to find any vacuum leaks, has recient tuneup, had a egr code and that has been replaced. I've cleaned the throttle body also. Previous owner had intake gaskets replaced as well as fuel injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump.
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A few months ago my teg started idling a bit funny. Its got a chipped ECU and has always idled very low (500 - 750 rpm) once warm.
In the past few months however the revs have started fluctuation or surging. Basically once the engine is warm the revs drop right down to nearly 200 - 250 (the needle actually drops off so its hard to tell ), then the engine bounces back up to around 500 rpm. It then does this non-stop if I leave the throttle alone.
Ive found that resting on the throttle tends to solve the problem as I'm forcing the system to run constantly, however when letting off the throttle (or dropping out of gear), she drops right down gets really ragged then bounces back up to ~500. The drop and surge cycle takes roughly 2 seconds.
Ive taken it to an auto electrician who sat on it for 2 weeks and eventually shrugged his shoulders. I've heard that one factor could be the O2 sensor, however another camp has said ECU and yet another said throttle sensor.
Details of the car are:
94 Honda Integra (GS-R model)
B18C (Gen 1) motor - Enlarged throttle body, Gizmo chipped ECU, better breathing with a pod etc.
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I have a 00 Silverado Z71 Ext. cab, 4.8 motor and auto trans. 264,000 miles. I noticed recently when driving down the highway at times the engine will begin to surge. Usually between 40 and 50 MPH. if i let off the throttle it will smooth out or if I give it more throttle it will smooth out. What would cause this??
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