Shifting into gear was a problem occasionally, but lately, within 15 minutes of driving, I start feeling the shifting into higher or lower gear getting stiffer and will not shift into gear.I've shared the problem with couple of my mechanics and it left them puzzled, since there are no leaks or low levels of fluid.
B2600i '92 cab ....
My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
I have a 1990 mazda 2600i 4x4 truck that is leaking coolant on the right side of the engine about mid ways back. What that could be coming from? My light was very dim and I couldn't tell much by looking.
View 1 RepliesMy 1993 Mazda B2600i starts up in the morning just fine. It runs for about 10 minutes and abruptly shuts off. I can crank it at full speed, (Good Battery), and it may attempt to start a few times and then it just cranks with no attempt to fire up. It just turns until the next day morning. Then it is the same thing all over again. I disconnected the fuel line from the out let of the fuel filter, leading to the fuel injectors and was able to fill a 2.5 cup glass jar in about 20 to 30 seconds.
I checked the ignition coil and there was spark there. Then I checked for spark at the #1 and #2 cylinders and detected the spark there as well. When the truck runs in the morning, for the 10 minutes that it runs, it seems to be very smooth in its operation. No abnormalities at all until it shuts off. I also listened to the fuel injectors with a screw driver at my ear and herd a fairly consistent clicking of the fuel injectors during the 10 minute operation of the engine.
I have a 1992 mazda b2600i, recently lost all brakes. Changed the master cylinder, but now I have a major problem!! I have no power to start it. I have head lights, dome lights, horn, buzzer when key is in start position. Nothing when try to start, no click, no trying to start nothing!! I have changed the main relay, all fuses. broke down and contacted a mechanic and he is telling me that I have to have the 2 computers replaced... there is one under the kick panel on the pass side and one under the driver seat!!
View 7 RepliesI have a camry 2000 automatic transmission with 150 K on it. For last few months I am having this sporadic issue with it having difficulty to change the gear from lower to higher gear(from the first to second, i guess). It goes like this, when i start speeding up the car, its having difficulty to move to higher gear, it just revs up to like 5 - 6 K rpm and with a jerk it shifts the gear. And at the same time check engine light goes on. And during the time this check engine light is on, it does this same thing a couple of times or so.
Then after some time the check engine light goes away and the car runs just fine without any issues for some tine and then the same thing happens again and after some time the issue and the check engine light goes away and the car runs just fine again. this keeps happening every few weeks. So I took the car to the mechanic (check engine light has gone away at this time, who told the code was showing some "speed sensor" issue and they replaced this. After that the car ran just fine for a couple of months. But its starting to do the same thing again.
I have a 2003 Mazda 6, 5-speed. Whenever I'm driving in higher gear (4th or 5th), the tachometer seems to jump. For instance, if I'm driving at 50mph at 3,000rpm in 5th gear and I want to accelerate to ~65mph, the tachometer seems to jump to 3,5000-4,000rpm, then drop down to 3,000rpm and then slowly increase as I accelerate.
What's the reason for this random jumping/revving? I don't think the clutch is going bad or slipping. It only seems to happen in higher gears, even without me shifting--only when I want to accelerate.
I have a 1996 escort wagon with strange auto transmission behavior. Sometimes during the summer months but mostly during the winter; the transmission will start off in 3rd gear from a stop and won't go any higher or lower. If I drive it around for a while, it will suddenly shift into 4th then the transmission will act normally for a while then for no reason will just suddenly start off in 3rd gear from a dead stop. It has been doing this for about 8 months now. 146k miles. I have tried shifting through all the gears manually. It will drop down into first when I put the lever there, but when I move the lever back up into drive, it goes right back into 3rd.
View 1 RepliesMy Subaru want to stall when it shifts from a higher to a lower gear when driving up a grade/hill. Also does the same thing when pulling out from a stop sign or traffic light. You need to pump the accelerator to get it going.
View 1 RepliesSeems like the problems just keep building up. Today leaving work T-reg shifts fine untill it got to 5th gear. It was around 35 mph. Went to give it more gas and it never shifted out of 5th to a lower gear. It did accelerate but even with pedal to the floor it never downshifted. Whats going on. It has done it twice in the past two days. After only having it on the road for less than 5 min each time.
View 6 RepliesMy friend told me the other day her car was in overdrive (hwy driving) and suddenly, it shifted to a lower gear. It seems no one knows why. She does have an extended warranty, but the garage might charge her $300 to open it up to see what is wrong. Another friend suggested a clogged filter. Another one, a sensor.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1999 Mazda 626. Lately, it seems to shift into 2nd gear much too late - ~5000 rpm - regardless of acceleration. Is there a good place to start diagnosing this problem? I've heard everything from new tranny to neutral safety switch.
View 6 RepliesMy problems started out around the beginning of the year. Mostly, it was the transmission. It would slam really hard when shifting. Worst, sometimes while on the freeway, it would shift on it's own, for no reason, into a lower gear and get stuck. (Happened twice and was really scary).
Along with this, a couple times I would start it up and it would rev really hard, about twice what it normally would.
Usually, with the revving, I could turn it off and back on, and it would stop. A few times I could disconnect the battery, reconnect, and it'd be fine.
As for the tranny, I could turn it off then back on and sometimes that would work. Other times after a few miles it'd work itself out.
I did take it to my local Hyundai dealership. The first few times they couldn't get any code to pop, and they couldn't simulate the issue. It was very random when it'd happen. Luckily, on the 3rd try, they did get the tranny to shift hard. They said it was a bad tranny and replaced it (free due to warranty).
Unfortunately, that hasn't gotten rid of the issue. After a few months... maybe 3K - 4K miles the issue is back. Again, it's very random.
I've had the high revving which I've had to disconnect the battery to resolve. And the tranny is slamming again.
I don't notice any other issues. No engine light (except the one time the engine was revving really high and I had to disconnect the battery to reset, then the light went off).
Sometimes I can go a month with no issues. Sometimes it'll happen back to back days.
Could it be a computer issues? Is that something I can fix/change out as a novice?
Took my car in for oil/filter change and in some odd circumstance, the young mechanic managed to drain 1 liter of transmission oil out of my car (which I didn't know at the time). After driving for 10 minutes (~5 km), I noticed my reverse gear wasn't shifting properly. After ~30 minutes of driving, my car was smoking from the exhaust pipe (turns out he had overfilled my engine oil too!!). Took the car back in to complain the mechanic supervisor claims my transmission is still fine and all I need to do is refill the lost fluid. Another independent mechanic later tells me my transmission line is likely fried if I had experienced what I did, and those guys should be responsible to replace everything. Since fluids have been topped up, I have no proof of who is right. So my question is, if I only drove for maximum 50 km after my transmission fluid was drained and engine oil overfilled, would that be enough to cause serious damage to the car?
View 10 RepliesWhat exactly influences MAF readings to be higher or lower? For example I am running similar boost and timing to other Stage 1 cars but my MAF peaks at 238 g/s while others are in the 250's I have heard that you can relate MAF to power but its not exact. I have a Forge Twintake and Stage 1 tune, I have been looking at peoples logs all night and I don't understand why my MAF is reading lower than other Stage 1 and 1+ cars.
View 4 RepliesI have begun to notice that when I start my van each morning for the first time that it is reving at a higher RPM then it did back during the winter. During the winter it may have been around 1000rpms at start before lowering down after a few minutes. Now it is starting at about 1500 and then returning down to the lower level after a few minutes of warming up. Could the change in outside temps cause this?
View 3 RepliesThe idle speed is higher than normal, about 800-900 RPM. Whenever I stop for the traffic light, the engine will behave as if someone is pressing the gas pedal intermittently. It has new spark plug wires and coil.
View 8 RepliesI got this "Failed MAF" along w/this "circuit condition or idle speed is higher/lower than expected" codes when I hooked up my car, what does this mean????
View 3 RepliesMy sport trac has just started having a very strange problem. When I start the truck none of the gauges on the dashboard work... not the indicators or the RPM or the speedometer. The gas gauge will visibly move higher when I brake and lower when I accelerate.
But a few min after I start driving everything pops on. What could be causing this?
I noticed my engine would rev up higher before up shifting which is what I always wanted in "D" after I took back my car from the 20K service. Drivetrain Reprogrammed. Now my car is feels a lot more responsive than before.
View 9 Repliesabout a week ago, I noticed my stick shift sitting a little lower than normal, and now I have to actually engage clutch, then pull upward on the stick shift before I can shift gears without a problem, if I do not pull up, the car just won't shift.
View 9 Replies