Mazda - B2300 :: 1994 - What Is Open Allowing Too Much Coolant Flow
Dec 31, 2011
I inherited a 1994 Mazda B2300 Pick Up 5 speed with just over 100K miles. Problem is the temp. gauge will just barely move off "C" at full tilt on a summer day. Confirmed the temp gauge was right. Replaced the thermostat and flushed out the system and heater core. Hoses are "warm". Cardboard over the radiator will push the temp. up to the middle after 20 minutes on freeway. Next checked the fan clutch. No dice. The fan spins free and can be stopped by hand. So, what else is "open" allowing too much coolant flow?
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I have a 2003 Mazda B2300 pickup that sometimes won't start. When you turn the key all the way, it won't do anything, no sounds no nothing. However, if you try it a few more times it will eventually fire up and run normally. Last Friday, I must have tried to turn it on about a dozen times but nothing happened. So I tried the old hammer on the starter motor technique and it fired up immediately.
So I thought it must be the starter motor. But since then it's been turning on normally, except once when I turned the key and it did nothing. The battery is good, I replaced that about 8 months ago, and the battery cables look good. I'm hesitant to throw a new starter in. Could it be something cheaper, like a relay or some other electrical problem? Or could it be the starter and its on its way out?
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I have a 2004 mazda b2300 4cyl 5 speed that wants to stall on me sometimes when I engage the clutch and all most come to a complete stop. It does not happen every time i do this, but some of the time. I am able to instantly restart the truck and drive just fine. I am just confused at what might cause this. I did a tune up to it this weekend, and the cap from the clutch fluid did come off, I don't know if this would have anything to do with it. The truck runs great, just wants to stall some times.
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My 2002 standard B2300/4cyl Ford Ranger sometimes idles very low on start up, and it will jerk as though it were coughing when i engage in 1st and give it a tiny bit of gas. the jerking stops if i give it proper gas. oh yeah and about the low idle, it's only after starting, not at stops, and once i give it a bit of gas it pops right back up to 1800ish and drops to 1200ish as it should. this happens less this summer but i'm afraid it will happen more often as the weather changes and i want to deal with this before winter hits. it feels like something is clogged.. but what do i know! My baby's got 119 000km and i bought it a year ago, no maintenance history.
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Replaced the front oil seal on a 1992 mazda B2200 an it starts leaking again after running for about 20 minutes? Is there any where else oil can come from near there?
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I had my clutch replaced about a year ago in my 2003 mazda b2300 truck. Recently, it's been showing some of the same symptoms that popped up about a year ago. Such as, it's having a hard time going into first gear, and it seems to be generally clunky while switching the lower gears. The first clutch was replaced at 130k so I was alright with that. However, I find it hard to believe that I burned out this new one in a year. I do live in Boston, so traffic is pretty bad, but I try to not ride the clutch in traffic.
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I have a 1995 Mazda Truck, B2300 series that is a 4 wheel drive. Recently I had the front brakes replaced, new clay disc brakes. Not so long after that I started to hear a noise as I was braking as well as squeaking. I thought, of course it had something to do with the new brakes. The sound happened occasionally at first and now is every time I brake.
I can hear it as I'm coming to a stop, sounding like it's coming from the rear. It's a rubbing type noise, like a wa, wa, wa, wa that happens until I have stopped. After 2 mechanics I now have a $700 estimate to replace the u-joint, and they aren't even sure if that will fix it.
The front brakes are new. The rear drums have been replaced and machined to fit properly (they thought that was the issue). Is this common or something that I have to fix every such and such miles?
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Mazda B2300 2.3L 1995 model... About a week ago I ran my B2300 out of gas (or so I was convinced I was out of gas) because the engine quit running. After adding gas was unable to start it back up. It turns over but doesn't start.
Here's what we did to try and fix it:
1.) Replaced Fuel Filter
2.) Check the fuel pressure, and it was at 35 psi when the key was on
3.) Replaced all 8 spark plugs (4 cylinder truck btw)
4.) Checked spark of all 8 coil pack slots and 1st and 3rd slots (exhaust side) were not sparking. After replacing coil pack we received spark but truck still didn't start.
We're speculating on the possibility of it being the PCM (ECC).
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Ok I have 94 B2300 and about every 3rd or 4th start the ECU relay will not come on / energize which the the fuel pump relay doesn't come on either to prime the fuel system... so no start! It's very intermittent and sometimes the only way I can get the truck started is by pulling out the ECU relay and plugging it back in even sometimes that doesn't work too. Is it a bad relay or bad base the relay plugs into or is the ECU/computer going bad or is there wiring messed up in my ignition switch? Is there a known problem like this with these trucks?
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I am working on a 96 Mazda b2300 auto 2wd for a friend. His son was driving it when a loud noise, it died and wouldn't start back up. He had it towed to my house, I started to tear into to it and found it slipped the timing belt. So a rebuilt head, gaskets, timing belt, fuel injectors, water pump, thermostat, plugs, and fluids; tried to start it and nothing. Started troubleshooting and found the primary coil pack was out of spec, replaced and still nothing.
Changed out the CKPS still nothing? I have spark, I have fuel, I'm going to check compression tomorrow but the way the cylinders and pistons looked I don't think that is the issue but I going to check anyway, rechecked the timing marks they all lined up. Checked the fuel inertia switch not tripped. Could the PCM, or ICM cause a no start, and still be able to get spark and fuel?
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Any known problems with '94 Ranger/B2300 gas gauges? I just got a '94 B2300, and gas gauge reads empty with the key ON, and about 1/4 tank with the key OFF. Was told by previous owner it occasionally works, but I've never seen it work. Am starting to procure manuals and dig around the truck myself, but don't want to re-solve the problem if it's a known one. Haven't seen mention on the net of it being a recurring problem, but just starting to dig.
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I bought the 94 B2300 from a guy that said he got it from an auction and didn't know much bout it. Got 30 mins down the road and went to down shift to 4th coming into town and all I got was grinding. Turned it off and it would go into other gears and start in gear with the clutch pushed in. Wen I tried to take off it wouldn't move and just died. Towed it home and installed a new clutch kit in it. Got the clutch bled and went to test drive it and now it is stuck in 1st gear. Can it be easily fixed or am I going to have to replace the transmission...
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I'm about to tear into a friends 2002 B2300 4 cyl. The lower hose that comes off of the coolant reservoir is leaking in the metal part of the line. Close to where it bolts to the block. At a glance, it looks like I have to pull the whole top of the motor apart to get it off since the line runs around behind the motor. Is there a trick to removing this coolant line without a lot of teardown? I'm not finding it at parts stores so I guess it's a stealership part.
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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I have a Mazda MX3 V6 it's a 1994, anyways the cars starts and runs fine, you can rev it up and it don't stall sputter or anything, but as soon as you put it in gear it dies, just seeing what may be going on with it. Also I just put a new IAC vavle on the car. don't think that has anything to do with it, but this is the 1st time I have ever worked on a mazda, and just as a side note, the car ran good for about 2 days after the install of the IAC.
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I have a 99 alero. The temp runs right above the mid point and I get coolant over flowing out of the over flow tube. I have bought 2 caps and still the same problem. I have bleed the system thinking it was air trapped in the system after repairing a small heater hose. I thought that was the problem at first but I have repaired it and replaced the cap. But i'm still getting coolant coming out of the over flow tube.
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I've traced a 0.3-amp parasitic drain to the audio power amp (fuse #16, 20A). Pulling the fuse, the radio still works (it's on fuse #15) but then there's no sound from the speakers. (There's also no current drain. I'm weighing if it's more important for the truck to run or to sound good.)
I replaced the radio a month ago. It was definitely not working right, and the new radio definitely is. With the #16 fuse in place, the sound out of front and back speakers was great. "Was" because if I leave the fuse in, the battery gets drained in a few days, so the fuse is now out.
Where the audio amp is. My Haynes manual doesn't say. The amp has no user controls. It just takes the radio's output and feeds audio to the front and back speakers. The #16 fuse is what gives the amp power. Some online posts say it's under the glove box, some say behind the rear right speaker. All agree it's a bear to access.
So a few questions:
Why the power amp would be drawing current even when the truck and radio are powered off?
How does one troubleshoot this, short of replacing the power amp, which of course I don't have an extra lying around and wouldn't want to replace anyway as it's otherwise working great.
What do you think of installing a switch on the audio power amp circuit so that when the truck is parked, I switch it off, and no current drain, but when the truck is driven, I switch it on, letting me hear the radio or CD. This is obviously a kludge/ghetto solution, but the advantage is that I don't have to access or replace the audio amp. I want to keep using the fuse, of course, so am looking for a way to wire a switch into the fuse box while keeping the fuse in the circuit. If I knew which wire goes between the fuse and the audio amp, I'd splice a switch there, but I don't, and again, the Haynes manual is not useful.
1994 B4000, extended cab, bought in 1996....
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I have read all the posts pertaining to this code, replaced my coolant flow valve, bled all the air out of the coolant system and still am getting the cel with the 1121 code.
I have tried setting multiple coolant flow valve positions, checked all wiring in harness, coolant level is full in rad and reservoir, checked temp sensor at bottom of storage tank, checked pump operation at top of tank to attempt to clear this code to no avail.
Is there a default position the valve is to be in before cold start up?
Is there anything else that can trigger this code? What am I missing?
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Why am I losing coolant out of overflow on a 1999 jeep Cherokee classic for ?
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I am having a overheating issue with my 1.8t AWP gti, it goes as fallows, start the car, engine warms up go for a drive (short 5-8 mi), park the car and temp gauge starts to rise, (turns off car)... I began to check some things with the system, I checked both rad hoses bottom is hot top is a bit hotter and fans work when ac is on; here is where it gets interesting i took off the coolant return hose on the reservoir (cold start) and nothing was flowing ...water pump?... So i turned the heat on and air full blast and all of a sudden coolant starts to flow.
It also seems like air is being spat out as well. Soon after the flow beginning my coolant in the reservoir starts to fluctuate (rising and dropping) with air bubbles and beginnings to over flow so i shut the car off. Now I know what the possible issues are its either the water pump, air in the system or bad autozone thermostat. Here is some history of the car TB was replaced at 70,000 by Previous owner, i bought the car had the belt inspected and was told it was good, about 2 months ago i had a coolant leak and had it misdiagnosed as a thermostat housing leak; it turns out it was a coolant bypass hose that was leaking so i ended up fixing it. I lost a lot of coolant but topped it off with g12+. My mechanic doesn't think its the water pump and recommended changing the thermostat for an VW one another mechanic recommended to bleed air of the system.
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I do not have coolant flow. Changed Waterpump and Thermostat 2 times, hoses, new radiator and even clutch fan. I even cut out thermostat all together just to make sure that wasn't causing any flow problems. I flushed out heater core and hoses.
I'm thinking i have a block in engine not allowing flow. only thing left i can think of... So currently i have water pump removed and my question is: There is 4 open ports, 2 on each side for which the waterpump covers and pumps coolant through. Is the coolant pumped in 2 holes on one side and then comes out other 2 entry ports on other side after flowing through engine block?????
I tried to flush with waterhose, but can only get water to come out on same side of the 2 ports. NOTE: The port are ones square and other circle bore, one on each side. Flushing through square port and water comes out circle port.
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