Replaced the front oil seal on a 1992 mazda B2200 an it starts leaking again after running for about 20 minutes? Is there any where else oil can come from near there?
View 2 RepliesI have a 92 f150 w 302 . My front tank leaks out of the gas cap and builds up pressure. Even though I have never put fuel in it (owned it 7 mos). I siphon fuel out of it weekly. If I switch from rear to front. The truck stalls out.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Mazda B2300 pickup that sometimes won't start. When you turn the key all the way, it won't do anything, no sounds no nothing. However, if you try it a few more times it will eventually fire up and run normally. Last Friday, I must have tried to turn it on about a dozen times but nothing happened. So I tried the old hammer on the starter motor technique and it fired up immediately.
So I thought it must be the starter motor. But since then it's been turning on normally, except once when I turned the key and it did nothing. The battery is good, I replaced that about 8 months ago, and the battery cables look good. I'm hesitant to throw a new starter in. Could it be something cheaper, like a relay or some other electrical problem? Or could it be the starter and its on its way out?
I have a 2004 mazda b2300 4cyl 5 speed that wants to stall on me sometimes when I engage the clutch and all most come to a complete stop. It does not happen every time i do this, but some of the time. I am able to instantly restart the truck and drive just fine. I am just confused at what might cause this. I did a tune up to it this weekend, and the cap from the clutch fluid did come off, I don't know if this would have anything to do with it. The truck runs great, just wants to stall some times.
View 19 RepliesMy 2002 standard B2300/4cyl Ford Ranger sometimes idles very low on start up, and it will jerk as though it were coughing when i engage in 1st and give it a tiny bit of gas. the jerking stops if i give it proper gas. oh yeah and about the low idle, it's only after starting, not at stops, and once i give it a bit of gas it pops right back up to 1800ish and drops to 1200ish as it should. this happens less this summer but i'm afraid it will happen more often as the weather changes and i want to deal with this before winter hits. it feels like something is clogged.. but what do i know! My baby's got 119 000km and i bought it a year ago, no maintenance history.
View 4 RepliesI inherited a 1994 Mazda B2300 Pick Up 5 speed with just over 100K miles. Problem is the temp. gauge will just barely move off "C" at full tilt on a summer day. Confirmed the temp gauge was right. Replaced the thermostat and flushed out the system and heater core. Hoses are "warm". Cardboard over the radiator will push the temp. up to the middle after 20 minutes on freeway. Next checked the fan clutch. No dice. The fan spins free and can be stopped by hand. So, what else is "open" allowing too much coolant flow?
View 4 RepliesI had my clutch replaced about a year ago in my 2003 mazda b2300 truck. Recently, it's been showing some of the same symptoms that popped up about a year ago. Such as, it's having a hard time going into first gear, and it seems to be generally clunky while switching the lower gears. The first clutch was replaced at 130k so I was alright with that. However, I find it hard to believe that I burned out this new one in a year. I do live in Boston, so traffic is pretty bad, but I try to not ride the clutch in traffic.
View 12 RepliesI have a 1995 Mazda Truck, B2300 series that is a 4 wheel drive. Recently I had the front brakes replaced, new clay disc brakes. Not so long after that I started to hear a noise as I was braking as well as squeaking. I thought, of course it had something to do with the new brakes. The sound happened occasionally at first and now is every time I brake.
I can hear it as I'm coming to a stop, sounding like it's coming from the rear. It's a rubbing type noise, like a wa, wa, wa, wa that happens until I have stopped. After 2 mechanics I now have a $700 estimate to replace the u-joint, and they aren't even sure if that will fix it.
The front brakes are new. The rear drums have been replaced and machined to fit properly (they thought that was the issue). Is this common or something that I have to fix every such and such miles?
Mazda B2300 2.3L 1995 model... About a week ago I ran my B2300 out of gas (or so I was convinced I was out of gas) because the engine quit running. After adding gas was unable to start it back up. It turns over but doesn't start.
Here's what we did to try and fix it:
1.) Replaced Fuel Filter
2.) Check the fuel pressure, and it was at 35 psi when the key was on
3.) Replaced all 8 spark plugs (4 cylinder truck btw)
4.) Checked spark of all 8 coil pack slots and 1st and 3rd slots (exhaust side) were not sparking. After replacing coil pack we received spark but truck still didn't start.
We're speculating on the possibility of it being the PCM (ECC).
I am working on a 96 Mazda b2300 auto 2wd for a friend. His son was driving it when a loud noise, it died and wouldn't start back up. He had it towed to my house, I started to tear into to it and found it slipped the timing belt. So a rebuilt head, gaskets, timing belt, fuel injectors, water pump, thermostat, plugs, and fluids; tried to start it and nothing. Started troubleshooting and found the primary coil pack was out of spec, replaced and still nothing.
Changed out the CKPS still nothing? I have spark, I have fuel, I'm going to check compression tomorrow but the way the cylinders and pistons looked I don't think that is the issue but I going to check anyway, rechecked the timing marks they all lined up. Checked the fuel inertia switch not tripped. Could the PCM, or ICM cause a no start, and still be able to get spark and fuel?
I installed a JDM 2ZZ-GE engine and 6 speed manual trans-axle into my 2000 Celica GT.
I have ran into a interesting problem. I replaced the output shaft seals and now whenever the car is in the air and the suspension is unloaded (the drive axle is pulled slightly from the trans) the drivers side seal leaks a bit of gear oil. The drive axle is snapped into place. Nothing leaks when the car is on the ground.
I did reuse the old drive axles, which had a lot of miles on them but still appeared good and useable. I have been told to replace the new seal because it may be damaged, but I am wondering if it may be that the drive axle end is worn.
I have seen this with harmonic balancers for engines. They even sell a replacement sleeve for harmonic balancers so you can re-use the old worn one.
I have a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo that has me stumped as to why it leaks. The driver side axle seal leaks fluid only after a drive. I have replaced the axle twice and seal 6 times and it still leaks. I am stumped on this one. Unless I got a bad axle twice that the diameter of the sealing surface is too small but didn't seem like it as the seal hugs the shaft.
View 4 RepliesRecently my 2013 Hyundai Elantra was subject to a hit and run. It is a new car with less than 2000 miles on it since October 2013. There was 9K in damage, most of which pertained to the back driver's side and the axle. Bumper, quarter panel, trunk floor, axle, wheel bearings, and two rims had to be replaced. Plus incidentals like tail lights and such. Because this is a new car, I received all new parts as a replacement. When the car was returned to me, the back seat kept getting wet in the rain.
After taking back to the shop twice, they finally diagnosed a small hole in the seal in a seam of the quarter panel area---something must have happened when putting everything back together. The door is fine and there is no moon / sun roof on the vehicle. I do not completely understand what this means. I know some basics about cars, but not to this level of detail. I searched by topic area and couldn't find anything that was related to this type of reason for water in the car.
Have the following questions: How a small hole in a quarter panel area would cause water to get into the back seat (on seat and floor)? What would be good things to watch out for post-fix? It is still a bit damp and rainy here, so I can't open the windows for things to dry out. Would have been nice for the collision center to dry the seats. How can I make sure mold/mildew won't develop?
I have a 1992 Mitsubishi 3000gt VR-4 (Twin turbo)
Last night I was driving.. not even pushing my car or anything. I go through 1st gear fine, then when I hit second, out of nowhere I hear this loud air escaping sound come from under the hood around 3000rpms. As I went up in rpms, the sound just got louder, so I shifted quick.
It sounded like if I just tried to go through it, it would explode or something. I looked this up and found somewhere it said to try tightening the clamps on everything under the hood, so I did that. None of them were loose but I did tighten them a lot.
I also looked at my (boost?) gauge (gauge on the far right in the car) and it seemed like it was stuck at halfway and moved very little when I was driving. I was going to have a person try to feel where the air was coming from when I revved it in neutral but it doesn't seem to do it in neutral..
Never heard it before and I need to figure this out as soon as possible. Trying to sell my car and this happens..
I'm new to the site and I've got a 2012 F-150 SuperCrew EcoBoost that has had the front wheel hubs replaced twice. Both hubs two winters ago and one hub last winter. I'm taking it in again tomorrow because the wheels are growling again when turning slightly at low speeds and sometimes without turning. I'm running in 2H, so the hubs should not be engaged. Previous years it was when running in 4H or 4A.
When I took it in, the service manager said it was common this time of year because of the temperature. Always seems to be cold, but not frigid, days here in SD. I asked why I should tolerate having hubs replaced every year, but he can't answer that.
I'm at 36,450 miles/29 months. I'm not beating on it or running in 4wd on dry pavement. Just normal highway miles. I should know more tomorrow after it comes out of the shop.
I have a 1992 Mazda 929 in which the heat does not work while the a/c does work perfectly. When the problem first occurred the fusible link for the A/C was broken (indicative of some electrical overload). I replace the fusible link and still no heat.
I went under the passenger side of the dash and changed every visible black box (fuse/sensors)that is attached to the heater core unit. After that the heat still did not work.In relation to this problem the care now runs hot whenever I am a red light or in stop and go traffic.This seems to me a that a mechanical gate from the engine is not opening to allow the hot fluid from the engine to get into the heater core.
I have a 1993 Dodge Grand Caravan with about 160,000 miles on it. The front end has been deteriorating steadily for some time now. I have no power brakes or power steering, but I do not think that this is related to my REAL problem: My driver side CV joint (or axle or whatever) failed last week. Upon inspection, my mechanic commented on how he was surprised that it held on long enough for me to get to his shop. It was replaced by a mechanic with a new (not re-manufactured) piece.Yesterday I was driving a friend to the airport about 150 miles away, and 20 miles out of town, my van began wobbling in the front, and then shaking violently - consistent with my previous CV failure.
After dropping my friend off at the airport, I proceeded to the nearest mechanic, who again commented on how he was surprised that I was able to make it to his shop. He said something about the last CV joint being too long or something against a tulip joint (or something, I should have written it down).Initially it drove smoothly, as it did after the first fix, but on the way home I noticed a slight wobble that is connected to acceleration (that is, when I take my foot off of the gas, the wobble disappears). I am concerned that the CV is going to fail again. What would be causing this? Are the mechanics at fault, or is there another problem that propagates in the CV?
Repeat Front Hub Failures -- 2WD Try this situation -- Purchased 2006 F-150 XL with 57,000 miles. Truck built on 05/24/2006.
Sept 2011 68,621 miles -- Left front hub failure -- Wheel bearing grinding -- Done by Bell Ford in Phoenix.
2013 -- Left front hub failure -- wheel bearing grinding -- done by independent shop.
Sept 2014 -- Left front hub failure -- wheel bearing grinding -- done by independent shop.
Sept 2016 -- Upper & lower control arms, struts, strut mounts, springs replaced -- Quality part used -- Complete front end alignment -- Brake job front and rear.
Nov 2016 -- New performance exhaust system due to exhaust leaks.
Dec 2016 -- Failed automatic transmission -- Remanufactured FORD transmission installed w/ 36 mo warranty. Sanderson Ford gets an A+
March 16, 2017 151,000 miles -- Left front hub failure -- wheel bearing grinding! Verified by jacking up truck and spinning left front wheel -- GRIND! This is coming from down in the hub. This is a 2 wheel drive truck. Yes, you counted correctly, this will be the 4th replacement on the Left side!
NO Towing! NO Overloading! Wheels are 2006 XLT style Aluminum rims with P235/70R17 Michelin XLT M/S (Defender LTX) tires all around.
It only hauls maybe 200 to 300 pounds of electronic equipment at the max, once in a while. This is driving me crazy! I always use FORD PARTS for the HUB ASSEMBLIES. Really loosing faith, the front right hub is OEM original - NEVER CHANGED!
I have replaced the water pump,oil pump,timing belt an tensioners, done a head job an now it wants to start missing when you put a strain on the motor[going up hill] but doesn't on level ground.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1992 mazda b2600i, recently lost all brakes. Changed the master cylinder, but now I have a major problem!! I have no power to start it. I have head lights, dome lights, horn, buzzer when key is in start position. Nothing when try to start, no click, no trying to start nothing!! I have changed the main relay, all fuses. broke down and contacted a mechanic and he is telling me that I have to have the 2 computers replaced... there is one under the kick panel on the pass side and one under the driver seat!!
View 7 RepliesI drive a 1992 Mazda Protege. Recently had an oil change and put in new air filter. Recently the check engine light has been coming on. Sometimes it will run rough and sputter a bit when the light flips on and then runs normal after the light flips off, sometimes it seems to run fine when the light comes on, but the light does go off and the car runs fine after it has been running for a few minutes. Shortly before I had my air filter and oil changed I did have an incident at a stop light where the car died and did not restart for a full five minutes, at which point it sputtered for a bit and then got me home.
I took into the local mazda service center and dealer (they were the only ones who had the right kind of connector to pull the error of a car this old), and they said the only code coming up was a p69 which indicated a bad thermoswitch. I have already paid for it but the parts won't be in until Saturday. I have until then to cancel the repair and just pay restock and the original diagnostic fees. Should I go through with this repair, or do the symptoms described indicate something else?