I have replaced the water pump,oil pump,timing belt an tensioners, done a head job an now it wants to start missing when you put a strain on the motor[going up hill] but doesn't on level ground.
View 6 RepliesI was wondering if there may perhaps be a more conventional approach to getting the blower fan motor for the AC/Heat in my 1990 Mazda to work consistently - other than whacking it with my hand or foot? Is there an easy fix for this?
View 5 RepliesThe oil light came on in my mazda pickup. So the mechanic put in a new oil sending unit, spark plus, wires, distributor. $250. Two days later the oil light came back on. So the mechanic put in new rod bearings, main bearings, oil pump, water pump, timing belt, valve cover basket, and oil filter (and oil, of course). $1300. Two days later, the oil light is BACK ON!! What is going on??
View 7 RepliesB2200 mazda: I've recently got a screechy noise only when in gear but gas pedal NOT depressed. Could this be an indication of a bad U joint noise? Or? The noise seems to be coming from the rear chassis of car. Noise seems worse if going in reverse. Possibly coincidentally I started noticing the noise after a shock absorber worked its way loose, causing lots of racket. (The mechanic who'd installed it has since tightened it.) Would all that rumbling from the loose shock have caused something to break or work loose? Or is it just age of vehicle (22 yrs) By the way, the noise is very similar to a wire scratching metal. I also have had the classic thunk noise of a u joint, for a longer period of time-- never looked into though.
View 1 RepliesMy wife is out of town and while she parked her 1997 Mazda B Series pick up truck this morning she stated that her truck continued to roll while parked on a very slight incline. The vehicle was in gear so she put the emergency brake on. Could the clutch be slipping although she said it seemed to be shifting fine. She has to drive back 3 hours over the rolling hills of Nevada and is very concerned that something else could be wrong. What could I have her check besides the clutch fluid?
View 5 RepliesThe engine "pings" shortly after I get in and drive it when the car is warming up. I watch the engine temp rise...and when it starts to get warm just before the thermostat opens and the temp drops the car "ping or pre-detonate" when the accelerator is gently pressed. After the engine warms up... no problems. I drove it from Port Angeles Wa to southern Oregon with out it ever happening... but when I drive a short distance to town it consistently happens. I have checked what I know how to but beyond that it seems odd. Its it normal for the engine temp to rise up warmer than the normal operating temp, and then drop back down? The thermostat was recently replaced. It seems something is creating excess vacuumduring the warmup time that makes the engine ping. All the vacuum gizmos and gadgets make me crazy...
View 1 RepliesI have a 92 (3.3L) New Yorker 5th Avenue that has makes the car jerk badly going uphill and occasionally makes a backfire / misfire noise. It is a general jerking, not localized (right / left front) by feel. It starts ok and runs smoothly at idle but once you put it in drive and start acceleration, it begins to jerk. It has over 200k mi. I have had the fuel filter replaced, new plugs and plug wires put on. Mechanics have ran codes on the engine and transmission and tell me that no bad codes show up.
View 5 RepliesI've taken my Traverse in to the shop twice now and they can't seem to find the problem - it misses going up gentle grades, especially when on cruise control and higher speeds. First they said timing belt, then spark plug wire, but it's happening again and I'm about to take it back in. The last time they test drove it and they said they couldn't duplicate the symptoms but I think they didn't take it out for long enough of a test.
View 4 RepliesI have a 95 Subaru that has major engine miss and engine smoke uphill. I replace knock sensor fuel pump n filter, spark wires. What else could it be?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2008 XL 4.2 auto trans with 60,000 miles on it. We purchased a new travel trailer with a total weight just under 5000 lbs that we pulled for about 2000 miles this summer. On the last trip we noticed the truck was missing pretty bad going up hills or under load. After we got home I started to notice the miss at times even not towing. Did a tune up with Motocraft plus and wires and seems to still have a miss at an idle and very low RPM. What would be best to check next?? Would Coil be logical?
View 10 RepliesI've got a mazda 6 v6 3.7 from the year 2010 with approx. 69000 miles on the clock. I noticed when going uphill at low or high speeds that the car seems to feel like it is shifting but it actually isn't. For example when I drive on the highway about 70 going up a hill it feels like it shifts every few seconds even on manual mode in 6th gear.
When I hit the gas it shifts back and I don't feel it anymore. At lower speeds it feels like it is doing a whole lot of shifting at low/medium acceleration. Again if I hit the gas and accelerate faster the car just goes normally up its gears. I think this is the torque converter doing this, but I am not sure whether it is normal?
Lately I have been having problems loosing power. Truck wants to miss mostly going up hill and runs sluggish I'll pull off the road and let it idle for a minute and it will run fine. And it is only occasionally some days it don't happen at all and other days it happens quit often. New fuel filter, oil is good, had it on the scanner and isn't throwing any codes. Around 230k miles newer injectors.
View 10 RepliesI have a 1992 Mazda 929 in which the heat does not work while the a/c does work perfectly. When the problem first occurred the fusible link for the A/C was broken (indicative of some electrical overload). I replace the fusible link and still no heat.
I went under the passenger side of the dash and changed every visible black box (fuse/sensors)that is attached to the heater core unit. After that the heat still did not work.In relation to this problem the care now runs hot whenever I am a red light or in stop and go traffic.This seems to me a that a mechanical gate from the engine is not opening to allow the hot fluid from the engine to get into the heater core.
My 1992 240 wagon (injection) is intermittently stalling, and missing. The lambda light is on the dash. Last year it was doing something similar, but not as bad, and I took it to Volvo and they cleaned the throttle body and said it should be ok, and it was for a while, but now it's worse. Ignition parts are mostly new, I doubt it's that. When it stalls it nearly always starts straight away. When it's missing badly but not stalling, pressing the acc peddle does nothing, until it eventually catches on and revs properly.
I also find that when I have a full tank it's not so bad. When the tank was nearly empty it was particularly bad - it's winter and I was suspecting there was condensation in the tank.
Is there a 'backyard' way of getting the error codes? This could be a good start.
I was towing my camper uphill and my 03 6.0 started missing and blowing black kid smoke. Next thing I know I hear a loud pop and steam is coming from under the hood and the truck dies. I pull over and discover the degas lid is stuck on and the bottle came apart at the the seam and the truck will not start. 6.0 with 120k miles
View 1 RepliesReplaced the front oil seal on a 1992 mazda B2200 an it starts leaking again after running for about 20 minutes? Is there any where else oil can come from near there?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1992 mazda b2600i, recently lost all brakes. Changed the master cylinder, but now I have a major problem!! I have no power to start it. I have head lights, dome lights, horn, buzzer when key is in start position. Nothing when try to start, no click, no trying to start nothing!! I have changed the main relay, all fuses. broke down and contacted a mechanic and he is telling me that I have to have the 2 computers replaced... there is one under the kick panel on the pass side and one under the driver seat!!
View 7 RepliesSo Im working on a 1998 mazda b4000, frost plug blew out going down the highway changed the engine because it got cooked pretty bad. The wrecker engine I got for what ever reason will only run good if the driver side of coil pack is done 5,6,4 any other order truck wont run at all. Misses enough to shake the truck at around 80 km/hr otherwise its pretty good. Also the engine I got came factory with no egr.... no provisions nothing. exhaust manifold capped off, seemed kinda odd.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1998 Passat v6 triptronic I recently had a lot of work done on the car including a new throttle body I have noticed since I got it back from the mechanic after a short drive it starts to miss and you can actually feel the motor shaking around through the drivers seat, I had a couple of passengers in my car (back seat) and they could feel it too, seems to be fine when I first start to drive it but after around 5 minutes it starts shaking, I also noticed today when I got home I opened the bonnet and the motor seemed hot as did all of the parts around the motor including the water in the top up tank. friends keep telling me it could be my spark plug leads but I am more inclined to think it may be a coil, when I check the temperature gauge it is on half way and this seems to be normal for my car so it's not showing that the motor is getting hot.
View 2 RepliesI drive a 1992 Mazda Protege. Recently had an oil change and put in new air filter. Recently the check engine light has been coming on. Sometimes it will run rough and sputter a bit when the light flips on and then runs normal after the light flips off, sometimes it seems to run fine when the light comes on, but the light does go off and the car runs fine after it has been running for a few minutes. Shortly before I had my air filter and oil changed I did have an incident at a stop light where the car died and did not restart for a full five minutes, at which point it sputtered for a bit and then got me home.
I took into the local mazda service center and dealer (they were the only ones who had the right kind of connector to pull the error of a car this old), and they said the only code coming up was a p69 which indicated a bad thermoswitch. I have already paid for it but the parts won't be in until Saturday. I have until then to cancel the repair and just pay restock and the original diagnostic fees. Should I go through with this repair, or do the symptoms described indicate something else?
94 Camry, 4 cylinder. 204,000 miles. New fuel pump last year. Timing belt replaced 30K ago. Plugs and plug wires, as well as distributor cap and rotor, about 2 years old. New ignition coil about 300 miles ago. Generally very well maintained and in good shape. Today it died on the NJ Turnpike, 200 miles from home; started missing and it got progressively worse over the span of about 30 seconds to the point that the motor died. Towed to local Pep Boys (I know, but it was the only choice on a Saturday and I don't know the local area).
Mechanic says no spark but was unable to fix it. As things now stand the nearest Toyota dealer is scheduled to move the car to their shop on Monday. All the dash lights come on, including chimes and such. It will crank like a champ but will not fire up. I know this isn't giving you all much to go on, but I'm wondering if what happened could be related to the coil. Is it likely to have failed? Would replacing an old coil cause anything else to break down in the distributor?