The oil light came on in my mazda pickup. So the mechanic put in a new oil sending unit, spark plus, wires, distributor. $250. Two days later the oil light came back on. So the mechanic put in new rod bearings, main bearings, oil pump, water pump, timing belt, valve cover basket, and oil filter (and oil, of course). $1300. Two days later, the oil light is BACK ON!! What is going on??
View 7 RepliesI was wondering if there may perhaps be a more conventional approach to getting the blower fan motor for the AC/Heat in my 1990 Mazda to work consistently - other than whacking it with my hand or foot? Is there an easy fix for this?
View 5 RepliesI have replaced the water pump,oil pump,timing belt an tensioners, done a head job an now it wants to start missing when you put a strain on the motor[going up hill] but doesn't on level ground.
View 6 RepliesB2200 mazda: I've recently got a screechy noise only when in gear but gas pedal NOT depressed. Could this be an indication of a bad U joint noise? Or? The noise seems to be coming from the rear chassis of car. Noise seems worse if going in reverse. Possibly coincidentally I started noticing the noise after a shock absorber worked its way loose, causing lots of racket. (The mechanic who'd installed it has since tightened it.) Would all that rumbling from the loose shock have caused something to break or work loose? Or is it just age of vehicle (22 yrs) By the way, the noise is very similar to a wire scratching metal. I also have had the classic thunk noise of a u joint, for a longer period of time-- never looked into though.
View 1 RepliesMy wife is out of town and while she parked her 1997 Mazda B Series pick up truck this morning she stated that her truck continued to roll while parked on a very slight incline. The vehicle was in gear so she put the emergency brake on. Could the clutch be slipping although she said it seemed to be shifting fine. She has to drive back 3 hours over the rolling hills of Nevada and is very concerned that something else could be wrong. What could I have her check besides the clutch fluid?
View 5 RepliesThe engine "pings" shortly after I get in and drive it when the car is warming up. I watch the engine temp rise...and when it starts to get warm just before the thermostat opens and the temp drops the car "ping or pre-detonate" when the accelerator is gently pressed. After the engine warms up... no problems. I drove it from Port Angeles Wa to southern Oregon with out it ever happening... but when I drive a short distance to town it consistently happens. I have checked what I know how to but beyond that it seems odd. Its it normal for the engine temp to rise up warmer than the normal operating temp, and then drop back down? The thermostat was recently replaced. It seems something is creating excess vacuumduring the warmup time that makes the engine ping. All the vacuum gizmos and gadgets make me crazy...
View 1 RepliesA couple of weeks ago I came home from work to find my front passenger side wheel completely deflated. I didn't think much of it at the time and thought someone must have let it down. However, ever since then I have had a very low pitched intermittent 'whomp' sound coming from it, when braking at a low speed. When the car comes to a stop, so does the noise.
I'm beginning to suspect that the tyre being deflated was due to it not being properly sealed to the wheel. I'd parked half on/half off the pavement outside my house with the passenger side on the road. I assumed the tyre deflated because it couldn't handle the weight of the car on the tyre. I've inspected the tyre and there are no obvious punctures and the wheel has remained inflated ever since and I've now agreed with my housemate that I can use the drive to park it on for the time being to stop it happening again.
However, before the deflation everything was fine with the car and there was definitely no 'whomp'. What it may be/ways to check what it is myself and/or potential costings of taking it to a mechanic?
I have a 1990 Mazda Miata, and the AC is not working. It has been switched over to R134a. I took it to a mechanic to have it recharged a few weeks ago. He said that one of the o-rings was cracked and so it was leaking around that. He filled it up and put some stop leak in it and for awhile it seemed to work fine. Then it stopped blowing cold air. I took it to a jiffy lube just to have the level of coolant (correct term?) checked. The person there told me that it was very low and was leaking around the valve stems. I tightened the valve stems and re-filled it. After 24 hours it had stopped blowing cold air again. I got a price quote on a new compressor and it is about $500.
So - my question is this - should I just put a new compressor in or is there something cheaper I could try first?
I have a 99 Mazda 626 (automatic) and in the past year it has stalled out on 3 separate occasions after coming to a stop at a stoplight. The car sputters off, the wheel locks and it just dies. After this happens the car won't click over to start. However, after letting it sit for several hours, the car will start up again without any problem like nothing was wrong.
I even had the car towed to a mechanic after one of these instances. The car was towed to the shop on a Saturday and on Monday when the mechanic went to see what was wrong, the car started up fine and showed no signs of an issue. I have always been able to start it up without a problem on a day to day basis. (The car also just recently got a lot louder -- I found a sizable hole in the B pipe--so I don't think the noise is related. Anyway, I just don't want to stall out in traffic again so is it time to buy a new fuel pump or could a smaller fix take care of the problem?
I have a 1990 mazda 2600i 4x4 truck that is leaking coolant on the right side of the engine about mid ways back. What that could be coming from? My light was very dim and I couldn't tell much by looking.
View 1 Repliesoil level checked by dipstick, a little low
View 7 Replies1990 Mazda Protege with a 1.8L DOHC, manual 5-spd transmission, ~173K miles on it. On my way home the other day, the car ABRUPTLY started to run very rough - with what I would call repetitive and incessant stuttering when accelerating (though I am by no means technical with respect to cars). I shut the car down, hoped the problem would go away, but when I started it up later that day, the problem was still there - the car BOTH idles rough and doesn't accelerate very smoothy. When I come to a stop, the car feels as if it's going to stall but stays running. This afternoon, I took it out on the road for ~3 mile drive (up to ~ 50 mph) and the problem is the same - but I did also notice, when driving, that the car gave off a smell reminiscent of firecrackers - perhaps a sulfur-ish smell. I googled the issues I was having and I got a whole array of problems - ranging from simply bad spark plug wires (which have been replaced in the past 1.5 years) to a stuck EGR valve .
Here's some additional info on my car: -Was just in the shop 2wks ago for overheating - found the thermostat to be bad - they replaced it and I no longer have the overheating issue. While there, they also replaced the belts for the alternator and water pump (Which had been squealing for quite some time) -Spark plug wires and distributor cap were both replaced in the last 1.5 years -Last oil change was > 6 months (but less than 3000 miles) ago - all the fluid levels seem to be fine -Though I think it is unrelated, the car is also making a high pitched squeaking noise emanating from the R front of the car while driving - I suspect this is the suspension-related as the shop informed me that I have one front stablizer link broken while the other is loose (and when I push down on the R-front side of car while it is not running it yields a similar squeaking noise.
I drive a 1992 Mazda Protege. Recently had an oil change and put in new air filter. Recently the check engine light has been coming on. Sometimes it will run rough and sputter a bit when the light flips on and then runs normal after the light flips off, sometimes it seems to run fine when the light comes on, but the light does go off and the car runs fine after it has been running for a few minutes. Shortly before I had my air filter and oil changed I did have an incident at a stop light where the car died and did not restart for a full five minutes, at which point it sputtered for a bit and then got me home.
I took into the local mazda service center and dealer (they were the only ones who had the right kind of connector to pull the error of a car this old), and they said the only code coming up was a p69 which indicated a bad thermoswitch. I have already paid for it but the parts won't be in until Saturday. I have until then to cancel the repair and just pay restock and the original diagnostic fees. Should I go through with this repair, or do the symptoms described indicate something else?
Change out the penlum gasket and now the check engine light came back on and the codes are 301 and 302 miss fire on the bank 1 and 2. not sure what it is now. mechanic is lost...
View 14 RepliesI have a '90 Bonneville SSE and after coming to a stop at a red light on the highway, when the light turned green the car wouldn't move forward. There were no odd noises, the car had been in cruise control and there had been no problems up to that point. The car shifted crisply, there was no obvious slippage or hesitation going into gear.
I can feel the car engage in both drive and reverse, but it won't move at all.
So I'm doing some work on my friends car he just bought, 1990 gts, rebuilt 5sfe, not sure how thoroughly it was rebuilt, there seems to be a metal grinding noise coming from somewhere in the belts, sounds almost like water pump, belt tensioner, ac clutch, or something along those lines. I don't know much about these motors, anything commonly go out on these?
View 2 RepliesMy awesome 1990 Toyota Pickup (6 cyl., supercab), fondly named Ol' Rusty, has a measly 245,000 miles on it and still running strong. The one problem is that when it is very cold out such as this morning (-10F), I get a terrible noise coming from under the hood just in front of the steering column. It sounds like a belt rubbing, but I can't find it. It happens when I start going faster than 20 mph and goes away once the engine is completely warm. When it's happening, the speedometer jumps a bit. Interestingly, if I warm the truck up for 10 minutes or more so that the engine is completely warm, it still happens when I first drive the truck. Is this something I need to worry about or can I continue to ignore it like I have been for the last 3 years?
View 2 RepliesChevy 1990 1500 ... I am wondering whats it means when white smoke coming out of the tail pipe? I also smell it burning oil sometimes. The engine has 310,000 on it. Its my first truck I just it this year.
View 14 RepliesMy '90 240 will not start. When I turn the key to Acc. or Start I hear a whirring sound coming from the fuel pressure regulator so I assume the fuel pump is not an issue. The engine will not even crank. I assume it is the ignition coil or the starter but I am unsure. As an FYI, the battery and plugs are good.
View 1 RepliesI have a water leak in a 1990 4runner (3vze) at the back of the block i called the dealership and they said the headgasket had been done, i noticed this leak because the water is well orange rust colored to be exact my 4runner needs a new radiator but that's kind of self defeating until i fix the leak at the back of the engine, what it could be? or how to check if its the headgasket, the oil doesn't appear to have any water in it,i believe it's coming from above the head but there isn't much clearance between the injector plant and firewall.
View 13 RepliesEarly 90's Toyota Corolla.
I've been hearing this sound the past couple weeks coming from the rear of the car. Not related to the rpm, only occurs if the car is moving slowly -- like when I'm driving in a parking lot, looking for a space. Occurs when turning, even slightly, but not when going dead-straight. It it intermittant, seems to occur more often on hot afternoons, never heard it all winter, or even now in the morning. Not that loud, but noticeable. Sounds a little bit like a vibration, sort of a buzzing sound, but more musical than a simple buzz.
The best way I can describe it is that it sounds almost exactly like that sound they make in kids cartoon shows on Saturday morning, when something bad happens, like one of the characters get hit on the head with a baseball bat ..." waah waah waah" .. sort of like a muted trumpet or muted trombone.
Rear wheel bearings? Brakes?