Mazda :: Starts To Shake When Brakes Are Used At 55+ Mph - Rotors Malfunction
Nov 10, 2012
When I am going between 55+ mph my car starts to shake when I use my brakes. The mechanic at the Mazda dealership told me that the brake rotors are warped and need replacing. I asked the mechanic how this happened when I have such low mileage on the car. He said that the rotors would warp if they overheated which could happen if I brake going downhill, doing a lot of city driving, or if carrying a heavy load.
My car has only about 11,600 miles on it. Monday-Friday I drive 5 miles to work each way. On weekends I drive about 50 miles on the highway. I do not ride the brakes and I can only think of two times in the 2 years I have had the car that I have had to slam the brakes on hard. Clearly, most of the brake use is during my drive to work, but that is only 5 miles one way.
I explained that I do not carry heavy loads since I normally drive by myself and maybe a dog or two. I also explained that the other situations he posted of braking when going downhill or doing a lot of city driving sound like normal driving situations, and not anything that should cause rotors to warp? The mechanic said that he could only tell me what would cause my rotors to warp and that how I drive is "on me".... grrrr. Not happy with that response at all.
I bought an extended warranty when I bought the car new and was at this time told that because the rotors are warped, as opposed to cracked, they aren't covered by the extended warranty because warping is considered a result of routine use. The repair is also not covered because I am over 12 months on the normal warranty.
Does this scenario sound right in a car with this mileage? Could I possibly have warped the rotors during a 5-mile commute to work? If so, what do I need to do to prevent this from happening again, because I am not willing to pay $350+ every 12,000 miles to replace rotors? I have been driving for over 40 years and have never run into this problem before. This is my first Mazda though, and it very well may be my last.
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This mazda is relatively quiet when on park and neutral and can feel more shake (feel from steering) while shifting to drive mode while idle/before redlight. it can feel more shake while on speed over 70 mph. it feel ok on speed lower than 70 mph. Just wonder if the engine/trans mount is the root cause. The trans is on drive side and engine is on passenger side. engine inside mount has been replaced and does not solve the problem much.
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I have a 2000 Mazda Protege ES, with about 120,000 miles. On February 14th, Valentine's Day, my car broke down and has not functioned since then. Here's what happened, I was driving the car when it started to shake. It continued to shake for about 5 minutes, then it stalled. I was able to start he car again and it began shaking worse than before. Then it stalled again and it has not run since then.
The mechanic I've been working with has tried a new CAM sensor, replaced the computer and checked some of the electrical wiring. But nothing has worked. It's been almost 4 months and I am eager to get my car functioning properly right again.
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I've been in some version of a Volvo since I inherited my parents brick-colored sedan in high school. It was a tank, ran forever and kept me safe and protected. Years later I bought a new black Volvo sedan. In 2006 with a hubby and two kids, I decided that I could graduate to the SUV. Feeling like I'd made a fantastically safe and practical decision, I drive my silver XC90 to work and on road trips. It's not the fanciest nor sexiest vehicle, but I feel my family is safe.
Hard working folks should not have huge budget surprises like my Volvo SUV has turned into. Little did I know what I was getting myself into when I made this purchase. When I took it into the Culver City dealer for my 30,000 mile service yesterday, I found out that my Volvo XC90 needed it's second replacement rotors and brake pads. I'd already been through this expense at 17,000 miles, much to my surprise. I'd never heard of needing to replace brake pads and rotors at 17,000.
Now, at 30,000 miles the local dealer's service department told me I needed another set at a cost of $1,000.
I have friends driving a Toyota or a Honda that rarely require maintenance or repairs. Volvo is an expensive vehicle to buy and it gets you every time you visit the service department and all repairs are expensive. It's disappointing to say the least.
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2007 passat variant 2.0T ... I had recently fit a pair of anti lift kit on the car. Also did an alignment right after with front Toe close to 0 degree. Now the steering start to shake at 70mph or above speed. Car is going straight and no shake at below 70mph. Where should i look at??
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My 2004 Passat is less than three years old and the front and back brakes & rotors have been replaced at least four times.
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Having issues with the brakes locking to the rotors after washing the vehicle? I washed it on Saturday afternoon, pulled it back into the garage and it sat there until Monday morning.
I back the vehicle into the garage, always. I started it up, put it in D and usually it will want to lurch forward if I don't hold the brakes firmly. Not today. I could not get the thing to budge. I sat there for a few seconds to make sure the parking brake was not on. It was not, as I never use that. My garage floor is the slippery concrete, plus with the tire shine that I applied, the wheels were just spinning.
After I managed to get the vehicle halfway out, I put it in reverse...that worked no problem. I put it back in drive and had no issues after that. Do I need to have the vehicle looked at? It only has 5,400 miles, and it was just in last week for the 5K mile service.
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2004 F150 XLT, 5.4, 69,000miles.
I took my truck into Brake Check because my brakes were squeaking and the rotor needed to be worked on, when I slowed down the truck would slow down smoothly....it felt like I was pressing hard then releasing etc. I knew it needed new pads etc.
Well, they replaced the Pads, and did Rotor Reface on all 4. They recommended getting the Calipers Maintenance (front 2 wheels). They wanted $800 for new rotors too (in addition). I told them no.
Fast forward around 6 months. Truck was braking great, no squeaks etc for about 4 months. Then I begin noticing huge amounts of brake dust on my wheels. Might be normal not sure.
2 months later, but truck now squeaks again while braking. And when I'm going slow, I like in a parking garage I can hear this clicking noise while I'm on the brake. CLICK.....CLICK.....CLICK....CLICK.
If you coudn't tell, I don't know much about my truck. I'm trying to learn.
Well, whenever I slow down from ~50mph, my truck vibrates like nothing I've ever seen before. My windshield wipers are bouncing around it's so bad.
I took it to a Ford Dealership to get the works done, where they rotate the tires and change the oil etc, and inspect the brakes. The guy said the rotors need to be machined.
That's not normal right? I don't drive a lot. I don't ride the brakes, I haven't had to brake hard. 6 months from the work I've had done from Brake Check, and the rotors are bad again?
I'm just going to pay Ford to fix this issue and not go back to brake check because that means I'd have to drive 3hrs. I'm curious though, shouldn't their work on the rotor still be good.....not causing them to be worked on again?! I like my truck a lot, the brakes are just pissing me off. My last truck, a 2002 ford...I had till last winter till someone rear ended my truck totaling it, I never had to do any brake work on that thing.
I got suckered into buying the extended warranty for my truck, and it says it covers the calipers.
I'm taking it into a different ford dealership that is in my town next week, and was curious if any of you had some insight on my brake situation.
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It was done last week and she is braking fine. But sometimes now when I brake there's a low-medium squeaking sound from the brakes. Is this normal / what's the likely cause?
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I took my 2010 Sonata GLS (86K miles) into the shop last Thursday for an alignment and new front brakes since the old ones were on the wear indicators and doing some squealing/squeaking on soft left turns. Got a call from the mechanic who said the rotors were also shot, so I had them replaced as well.
On my normal commute on Monday and Tuesday this week (approx 10 miles, 95% highway), I noticed that when the car was moving at 15mph or less in a straight line both front wheels were making a noticeable high-pitched squeal/squeak, which went away with increased speed and when braking. I figured it might be a break-in issue but when it hadn't improved by yesterday I made an appointment to have the car checked out by the mechanic again today.
Got the car back today and the same sound is still happening, though now it's in the 60mph range and seems to come and go regardless of wheel direction. The mechanic said he took the brakes apart, found no issues but cleaned and lubed everything as a precaution.
I'm starting to wonder if its the bearings that are shot, but the sound hasn't remained constant as I would expect with a bearing issue. All the parts used are under warranty, so the next step I have available here is to have the brakes and rotors replaced.
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So, got the 20 K miles service done last month on my 2012 Passat.
Recently I noticed that when I press the brake pedal to slow down, it seems to work fine. The brakes "catch" the rotors, there is a clear "grip" to the rotors and the car responds pretty fast to start slowing down. However, when I did a brake check to stop the car, I notice that when I press the brakes hard, they don't "grip" the rotors as hard as I would expect past that initial grip instance. Seems like their grip is not "catching" the rotors. As a comparison, my other car (6-cy, disc brakes front and rear) does maintain that grip. Am I missing something in this? Is the behaviour of the Passat's brakes expected?
How often does VW do break flushed based on their service schedule?
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2011 Ford Fusion Hybrid .. Since purchasing my vehicle in January 2011, I have had continuing problems with squealing brakes and my rotors scoring. They have been replaced along with the linings, pads, etc and less than three months later they are back in the same condition. I drive 140 highway miles roundtrip daily - at least half of that in stop-n-go commute traffic. I never experienced this over the 11 years I owned my 1999 Ford Explorer under the same driving conditions. Have this issue with the hybrid?
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The last 3 night we had temp. below freezing point. So every time I started my Prius up at the morning, the engine starts to shake violent, and then automatically shut off the engine with a message on the screen "Check Hybrid System". So after several times I restart the car, it runs normally, still with the message on. The temperature outside was -1 degree Celsius.
So I used my OBD to pick up the codes, which says P3191 - Unknown Error.
What does this error mean at what could cause this problem?
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I have a 2008 GC with the E-Brake calipers in the back. I changed the brakes and rotors all around and now the petal goes to the floor. I know it has something to do with the rear brakes, because I did the fronts first and after a few pumps I had good petal.
I've done these types of rear brakes before, you use a tool to turn the caliper in. Is there anything I missed? Did I turn it in too much? I don't think it is the master cylinder because it was fine before I started and fine after I did the fronts.
Also, the e-brake doesn't hold at all now, so that's another reason I think the problem is in the rear calipers. Maybe an Adjustment? There's nothing leaking, either.
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2008 LS600hl with 31K miles, been having low speed brakes shudder for quite sometime even after changing pads and machining rotors. This weekend thought about putting grease on the pins holding the pads, this did the trick, shudder is gone!
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i wrench on kids car. have done all 4 brakes in last 5 yrs. kid said front brakes were noisy. 06/01. 1 pad was worn thru to backing plate. messed up rotor. i decided to replace both rotors since cost was minimal. piston in caliper was stiff. decided to change caliper 1 week later. yesterday kid said rear brakes were noisy. rear discs. 1 pad was down to metal. replaced pads. rotor looks rough. other rotor is ok. need to get 1 new rotor. should i change both? pistons in calipers pushed in easy. feel smooth. caliper pins look fine.
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Brakes shimmy on my 05 f150. Been doing this since new new pads and rotors and alignment. what now?
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I performed brake maintenance today with my brother on my 2010 corolla CE, my front rotors were warped and my pads were used ( and also uneven) and I replaced both front rotors and pads.
The install went smoothly, my brother changed a couple of brakes sets and knew what he was doing and showed me up.
Took it for a spin, the brakes work very nicely ( i bought the ceramic wagner bundle ) but theres a slight grinding noise when driving, like the pads are touching and rubbing a bit too much on the rotor, but the driving is unnafected. Also, there's a sqealing noise coming from either side when you turn only.
Braking itself produces no noise whatsoever, only when you turn that it squeals.
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