Mazda :: Rough Idle Down To 500 Rpm?
Mar 17, 2013
once the eng is warmed up and i come to a stop with the brake pedal depressed, transmission in drive the engine idles down to~500 rpm and is rough. if i use the hand brake with it still in drive and remove my foot from the brake pedal idle speed increases and it runs smooth at ~750rpm, apply pressure to the brake pedal again and in a few seconds it's idling rough again. Runs strong in all other speed and load conditions. I thought it was a vac leak in the brake booster so I isolated(plugged) the vac line to the brake booster, and every other vac line but it makes no difference. I removed and cleaned the throttle body, no difference. The only thing that makes the idle smooth out when the brake pedal is depressed is if i remove the fuse for the horn/brake lights(found this out from another blog, but they never said if they were able to determine the reason/solution. Why would removing this fuse affect the idle? is there some type vac solinoid that's activated when the brake pedal is applied?
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Replaced the idle air solenoid and the car still vibrates in drive when at the light, etc.. Engine mounts were replaced though I am sure that isn't relevant. Anything I can look for?
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I have a 2005 Mazda 6. When it is cold - I start the vehicle & begin to drive. When I slow down and the RPMS get around 1000 - the car begins to run really rough & try to stall. If I put my foot on the gas - I can usually prevent it from stalling. The problem disappears once the car gets warm. The dealership recalibrated the PCM based on a Mazda Alert. However, it has not corrected the issue. Looking for thoughts on what could be causing this?
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I have a 96 Mazda Protege DX. 1.5L engine, now with 161,000 miles. 5 speed manual transmission. I had it for 7 years. Originally bought it for $1900 with 121,000 miles.
This has been a problem for about 5 years. When I am at a red light or idling and I step on the brake, my idle gets rough and my engine feels like it is about to turn off. The idle does not bounce up and down. It just goes down to 400-500rpm from the normal 800-950rpm range.
Again, this only happens when I step on the brake while the car is not moving. It does not seem to happen when I coast in neutral and hit the brake to slow down. I raised the idle a bit, but it still does it. I could not find any vacuum leak around the brake booster and I know the brake booster works because I pumped my brakes while the car was off, and when I turn the car on, the brakes soften up.
Also, my brakes feel weak. I usually hit the brakes nearly to the floor board to stop the car. New pads, rotors are good. Brake fluid is at right level. Mechanics say nothing is wrong with my brakes.
Secondly, my belts screech at every start up. Lasts anywhere from 3-20 seconds. This has been happening for the entire 7 years I have owned the car. Mechanics replaced the serpentine belts twice in that time. Replaced a pulley and A/C compressor. I tried using WD40 but it doesn't effect it. Mechanics tell me that the belt tension is correct and they do not know why it still screeches.
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1990 Mazda Protege with a 1.8L DOHC, manual 5-spd transmission, ~173K miles on it. On my way home the other day, the car ABRUPTLY started to run very rough - with what I would call repetitive and incessant stuttering when accelerating (though I am by no means technical with respect to cars). I shut the car down, hoped the problem would go away, but when I started it up later that day, the problem was still there - the car BOTH idles rough and doesn't accelerate very smoothy. When I come to a stop, the car feels as if it's going to stall but stays running. This afternoon, I took it out on the road for ~3 mile drive (up to ~ 50 mph) and the problem is the same - but I did also notice, when driving, that the car gave off a smell reminiscent of firecrackers - perhaps a sulfur-ish smell. I googled the issues I was having and I got a whole array of problems - ranging from simply bad spark plug wires (which have been replaced in the past 1.5 years) to a stuck EGR valve .
Here's some additional info on my car: -Was just in the shop 2wks ago for overheating - found the thermostat to be bad - they replaced it and I no longer have the overheating issue. While there, they also replaced the belts for the alternator and water pump (Which had been squealing for quite some time) -Spark plug wires and distributor cap were both replaced in the last 1.5 years -Last oil change was > 6 months (but less than 3000 miles) ago - all the fluid levels seem to be fine -Though I think it is unrelated, the car is also making a high pitched squeaking noise emanating from the R front of the car while driving - I suspect this is the suspension-related as the shop informed me that I have one front stablizer link broken while the other is loose (and when I push down on the R-front side of car while it is not running it yields a similar squeaking noise.
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I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 150,000 miles that is meticulously maintained. This past winter (as far as winter goes in San Diego) the engine would run rough and the rpm's would drop close to stalling when stopping at a light for the first 2 or 3 miles. After that the engine has warmed and there is no problem. Could this be the intake gaskets needing replacement. This only happens on a cool or damp, rainly morning.
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This problem has been getting worse over the last 2 years. When the car starts it idles fine at about 1000 RPM. As soon as it warms up, it starts to idle rough, between 500 and 750 RPM. It almost quits running. As soon as you give the car some gas it runs just fine. About 3 weeks ago I got a "Engine Lean" check engine light error. I reset the system and have not gotten the error again. Since then I have: changed the MAF cleaned the EGR (made sure it closes completely and ohm out the coils in the actuator) changed the O2 meter on the exhaust manifold cleaned out the throttle body Ohmed out the air idle controller. What I should check next. I was planning to check the fuel pressure in case it is a fuel system problem. It is a 1999 ....
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Mazda CX-7 sport that has rough idling when it is started and goes away when warmed up or driven. Is giving OBDII error code P0300 - multiple misfires. Where should I start looking?
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Our 2001 mazda 626 has begun to run rough(shaking the car) when idling at a stop sign or stop light and once that begins when we push on the gas to move from 1st to second there is a huge jerk. If the air conditioning is on it is worse. It is an automatic.
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I bought a '99 MX-5 in the fall with 100000 miles on it. Most of the time it runs fine. But about every two weeks when I go to start it it will run real rough like its only hitting on three cylinders then will eventually smooth out after anywhere from 5 seconds to 2 minutes. But today it wouldn't start at all. Finally started just fine after trying for 15 min. My mechanic changed the EGR valve but it hasn't worked. The check engine lite stays on all the time but when it starts rough the lite will flash.
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I have a 99 Dodge Stratus 4 cyl 2.4L, automatic.
It has been idling rough for a few months now. It feels just like it is misfiring. Tach confirms quick dip in rpm then return to normal idle. It has never actually stalled, just a quick rpm dip and subsequent shuddering, then recovers for a few seconds.
Also runs very rough, at 47-48 mph under light "cruising" load. Sounds crazy, but it does (did, see below) not happen at 45 or 50, just in the 47-48 mph range. Again, it feels like bad misfiring, with the car losing a lot of power and shuddering until I accelerate/decelerate away from this speed range.
NOW, over the last few days, the rough riding has gotten a lot worse, and occurs at all speeds. It is worse under load (mild acceleration, hills). Still feels like misfiring. Loss of power makes it hard to maintain speed up hills, at any speed. Also, today for the first time in its life the car backfired while trying to accelerate up a hill from a stop, at a speed of about 15 mph.
When idling, I can occasionally smell gas.
So, the coils are 2 years old, spark plug wires are 2 years old, spark plugs are 2 weeks old and air filter is 4 days old. Check engine light is NOT on and there are no error codes as of yesterday. Fluids are all good, except I am about the kick the stupid thing until it bleeds. Parts store suggested Idle Air Control Valve, but I am dubious, as this now happens at all speed.
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Today I went to the gas station and after I gased up and turned the car on my car started idling rough, almost to the point of cutting out. I started out on the road and my check engine light started blinking. After some time it stopped and just stayed on. The whole front end shakes pretty bad when at idle. The car has trouble accelerating till roughly 35-40 mph then seems to ride ok. I'm not very car knowledgeable, but I do take care of my car. I know I need to replace some of my hoses and spark plugs soon, but am worried that it may be more serious.
What I would like to know is: 1. What could possibly cause these issues and 2.
2003 Mazda Protege
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I have a 2000 Mazda Protege ES (1.8L) with 120k+ miles and an automatic transmission. The car drives well at speed, but when sitting at stops it will shake a little, sometimes worse than others. Often the RPMs drop to below the lowest tick for a split second before recovering, very much like when driving a manual transmission and not pressing the clutch in enough. Even when the RPMs are steady at a stop, it shakes enough to rattle a couple of the plastic parts in the dashboard.
Recent history (some likely unrelated, but I'm no expert):New air hose (one from the air filter to the engine) in September. RPMs were falling at idle more often than they are now, there was a decent sized crack in the hose. RPMs stopped falling as often, but has idled roughly before and after.New radiator and thermostat in April (overheated on the interstate and cracked open).New spark plugs and wires last fall after one cylinder wasn't firing.For the last couple years every fall when it starts to get cold, the alternator belt squeaks and I tighten the bolt a little each morning until it stops (usually after 2 days, maybe 3 - the alternator itself is on a long bolt that adjusts the belt tension).Every 5k miles I have the oil changed with high mileage oil and tires rotated/balanced.
I took it to a garage a couple weekends ago after the check engine light had come on earlier in the week. I reset the computer and the light never came back on, so I lost the chance to have the code read, but there weren't any other symptoms beyond what I'm used to. The mechanics at the shop said they couldn't find anything specific causing the rough idle and suggested replacing some or all of the motor mounts, which are weak. They didn't seem confident that would fix the problem, and neither am I, as I don't see how weak motor mounts would explain the low RPMs as well as the shaking.
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Our 07 Mazda5 (80k) once in a while will start and run very roughly, and pressing the gas to the floor only gets it to 3,000 rpms.It has diminished power for climbing hills when this occurs. Everytime this happens if we shut the car off and let it sit (between 10 minutes - a couple hours) it starts and runs like a top. We have added drygas 2 of the times, but the last time it happened was on the same tank of gas that we added the drygas to. Check engine light comes on, but will go off after a day or so.
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1995 Mazda Protege1.5 LAuto153K miles.
My car was running fine, then one day it started sputtering while driving, mostly when I accelerated. It stalled and I could not get it started. This happened on a day when it was raining hard, but not sure that had anything to do with it. A few days later when I went to pick the car up it started right up, it had stopped raining and been dry for 2 days prior. But about a mile into the drive back home it stalled and I could not get it started.
Here is what I have tested so far.
- Put in new fuel filter.
- Tested the fuel pressure and pressure regulator
- Tested the injectors with a noid light.
- Tested that the spark plugs were producing a spark.
After I pulled the plugs and cleaned and dried them (they were wet with gas) the car started, but I think not because of anything really related to the plugs. What I've noticed is that when cranking the engine if I give it gas it will not start but if I keep off the throttle it will reluctantly start. But once it starts the idle is smooth and as it should be. Then if I give it any gas it immediately stalls. It seems to me given these symptoms that it is getting enough air to idle but not enough air to match the increased gas.
The only CEL code that I'm getting (which I had before this issue occurred) is the "closed throttle position switch" (I forget the number). If it was an MAF, or IAC, or EGR issue would I not get a code? What this could be and how to test it. Again my guess is its an air intake issue but not sure where.
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I drive a 1992 Mazda Protege. Recently had an oil change and put in new air filter. Recently the check engine light has been coming on. Sometimes it will run rough and sputter a bit when the light flips on and then runs normal after the light flips off, sometimes it seems to run fine when the light comes on, but the light does go off and the car runs fine after it has been running for a few minutes. Shortly before I had my air filter and oil changed I did have an incident at a stop light where the car died and did not restart for a full five minutes, at which point it sputtered for a bit and then got me home.
I took into the local mazda service center and dealer (they were the only ones who had the right kind of connector to pull the error of a car this old), and they said the only code coming up was a p69 which indicated a bad thermoswitch. I have already paid for it but the parts won't be in until Saturday. I have until then to cancel the repair and just pay restock and the original diagnostic fees. Should I go through with this repair, or do the symptoms described indicate something else?
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2000' GMC safari's electrical system. To begin, she has 95,000mi, an although that's about a year old, a duralast gold battery about the same age, and 13.8 volts at idle on the meter at the battery. The problem, over the past couple of weeks, I'll start it and drive off as normal, an the thing wants to stall for about two seconds. After that, no problem whatsoever. One time, it actually did stall on me, and everything went dead for a couple of minutes, no juice whatsoever; noticed that even the clock in the radio read 12:00. After a few minutes, I tried to turn the key again, and it started right up. This a.m., I went to start the van, and it initially would not turn over. The started motor turned but in a weak manor. At that point we went completely dead again, no electricity whatsoever.
The strangest thing is what happened next, I pulled the hood latch release as I was about to investigate and noticed the guages on the dash move when I did, power was back. The van then started but barely, and when it did it stumbled for a few seconds before driving off without so much as a hiccup the rest of the day. The only other possibly related symptom would be a slight rough idle combined with a just noticeable dimming of the dash lights in the dark at idle. Also, I should mention that I have checked the battery terminals and they are tight and clean, the van is in excellent shape mechanically, averaging 20mpg combined, smooth acceleration, no leaks, "using oil", white or black smoke, etc. Plugs, cap, rotor, and pcv are recent. Egr and maf are both clear.
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I have a 99' Mazda B2500 5 speed manual transmission that will idle high sometimes while Im driving, that is in motion coating or in gear. It idles high enough it will cause the truck to speed up or maintain speed when i let off the gas in gear, and when i put it in neutral it will either stay at the rpm it was running at or it will speed up to 2500 - 3000 rpms until i slow to almost a complete stop, then it magically goes away. It will only stop the high idle when i come to a complete stop, even though it will go away just before the truck comes to a stop, if i touch the gas or put it in gear for a California roll it will kick back up to 2500 rpm and keep it up. It does not do this all the time. some times i go months without it happening. Sometimes it goes away in a few minutes and some time it will do it all day on a 18 hour ride. It is totally up to change whether or not its going to act up. Iv had it like this for year and cannot find a pattern to it at all. The amount of gas it gets at high idle speed is not much and is only noticeable on the highway when I go to coast or change gears, in town I notice it every time i come to a stop.
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I have a 1993 Mazda MX-6. For the past 2-3 years, my car shudders when it idles or goes less than 10 miles an hour. More and more lately, it has been shutting off completely when I drive slow or come to a stop. The first few weeks it was happening, one day while in a Burger King drive-thru (of all places- how embarrassing), it shut off and I couldn't get it to start again.
The mechanic I took it to replaced the distributor to fix it. It has not had a problem starting anymore since then, but it still shudders very hard. Could it be something else that's wrong?
I have also discovered that turning on the air conditioning keep the RPMs to stabilize, and the higher I turn the A/C, the more power it seems to get. Don't know if that is related.
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When I am slowing to a stop, my engine idle gets really low (like 500rpm or less) and sometime stalls. At the same time, the oil light comes on. It does this all the time, and yes I've had my oil changed recently and actually I just checked it the other day and it was fine (along with all other fluids).
I've had the mechanic take a look at this three times and every time something gets fixed but this problem remains. They now say it's a ghost. It is not the air intake (I've had all of the hoses checked and a bad one replaced). It's not the electrical (I've had the spark plugs and cables replaced about a year and a half ago).
I've pretty much had everything that a car of a certain age needs done fixed/replaced in the past year or so, and I still can't figure out what could be causing this. A recent show had a similar problem, but the gal didn't mention the low idle/stalling. In that show they mentioned that she should have the oil pressure gauge checked or replaced, but would that cause the low idle/stalling? I don't know what to do and I'm very reluctant to go to a dealer.
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My 2002 standard B2300/4cyl Ford Ranger sometimes idles very low on start up, and it will jerk as though it were coughing when i engage in 1st and give it a tiny bit of gas. the jerking stops if i give it proper gas. oh yeah and about the low idle, it's only after starting, not at stops, and once i give it a bit of gas it pops right back up to 1800ish and drops to 1200ish as it should. this happens less this summer but i'm afraid it will happen more often as the weather changes and i want to deal with this before winter hits. it feels like something is clogged.. but what do i know! My baby's got 119 000km and i bought it a year ago, no maintenance history.
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