Mazda :: Rattle - No Power On The Pedal?
Dec 29, 2013
What is wrong with this car? There is no check engine light, but when I try to accelerate, especially going up a hill, past 2k, there is resistance and it feels like I have my foot on the brake, and gas pedal at the same time. The car will not go past 40mph going uphill. I have had the spark plugs changed, still no good, I have emptied the gas, in case it was bad gas, I have added water cleaner to the gas tank in case it had water in it, was worse, added sea foam to clean the engine, then 40k to clean the gas tank better, seemed a bit better, now worse, added cleaner to the gas tank for my other things, forgot the word, and still my car does not accelerate, and rattles. I have had a car guy drive it, and I had a mechanic hook it up to a computer, some reading d4, said intermittent missing, I could tell them that! The words possible coil, cam, electrical , have come up, but the guy who drove it, didn't think it was the cam or coil?? I just bought this car with 100,000 miles to own a simple car that works, after enjoying my jaguar for 10 years. If I didn't need a car for work I would toss them all away! This is a Mazda miata...
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About a month ago, I noticed my 2007 Mazda3 making a rattling noise whenever the front passenger window is anywhere from cracked to almost all the way down. When the window is up or all the way down, there is no noise. When the door is in it's "sound-prone" state, I can replicate the sound either by going over a bump or just pulling and pushing on the door interior door handle. I've looked this up online and it seems to be pointing toward me needing a new window regulator. I haven't noticed any function loss, just the rattling sound that makes it sound like the car's falling apart. Does this seem like the right thing to try? What would cause the regulator to malfunction after only four years? Should I buy new or look for it at the local salvage yards? If it matters, my Mazda3 has electric windows.
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I accidentally stepped on the gas pedal of my brand new Mazda CX-5, when I had the car in park, while waiting for the outside bank teller. The car made a revving sound at the time, but seems to be driving OK. I am wondering if I have done any short/long term damage to the motor, engine, transmission or any other part of the vehicle.
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So, something odd happened to me today while driving. I was getting off a highway after about 250 miles of driving, downshifted from 5th to 4th, and when I hit the gas pedal after shifting, nothing. No acceleration. I shift back to 5th. Still nothing. Try revving in neutral, also nothing. I come to a stop on the exit ramp and try to start the car up. It starts up, hits about 1k rpm and stalls. Gas pedal does nothing still. What's up with this? I had it towed to my shop.
Couple tidbits of info: just had the oil changed three days ago. Checked the oil and it seems fine. I have an aftermarket he's unit in the car and lately, it's been a little wonky. When I put use my automatic windows, sometimes the volume will mute for a sec.
My car is a 2006 Mazda Miata base model. 5 speed manual. Power windows but not locks. No traction control. No cruise control. 40,000 miles. Oil changed regularly with full synthetic.
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My engine light started going on intermittently, and shortly thereafter it began to be difficult to change gears. I brought the car to a garage, and was told I need a new clutch (I have 50K miles on the car). However, the engine light says that there is a problem with the "clutch pedal position indicator."
The mechanic says that the position indicator is a separate problem, and I still need a new clutch. I don't know much about cars, but it seems to me that if the clutch doesn't know I've pushed the clutch pedal, that would explain why I have trouble changing gears.
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First thing in the morning 2 things happen with my car.
1)When I press the brake the first time after turning it on the pedal goes right to the floor with no resistance. The brakes work, the pads move, but there's no resistance in the pedal.
2)Usually within first 15 minutes of driving there's a gap in braking. There's resistance in the peddle but as the car gets near to stopping there's a... whump where the car acts as though there was a gap in the rotors. It brakes smoothly til near the end then suddenly seems to release and then half a second later it bites again and the car stops.
I've had the pads and rotors checked and they found nothing.
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I can't get the pedal to depress when trying to move from a stop. I was doing fine until this evening when heading back to my hotel following a theater performance. When attempting to accelerate from a stop light . . . NOTHING. I put the car in neutral and stomped on the pedal a few times and it finally engaged. Happened again when trying to merge onto the highway. As long as I keep pressure on the pedal it is fine, but as soon as I release it sticks in the "up" position. Naturally, I'm away from home, the roads are icy, and it's Sunday!
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B2200 mazda: I've recently got a screechy noise only when in gear but gas pedal NOT depressed. Could this be an indication of a bad U joint noise? Or? The noise seems to be coming from the rear chassis of car. Noise seems worse if going in reverse. Possibly coincidentally I started noticing the noise after a shock absorber worked its way loose, causing lots of racket. (The mechanic who'd installed it has since tightened it.) Would all that rumbling from the loose shock have caused something to break or work loose? Or is it just age of vehicle (22 yrs) By the way, the noise is very similar to a wire scratching metal. I also have had the classic thunk noise of a u joint, for a longer period of time-- never looked into though.
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The noise sounds a little like a baby Road Runner, a soft little "meep" sound. I usually notice it after the car has warmed up, when I come and go from a stop sign. In lieu of strapping somebody to the hood with duct tape, I've been trying to think of a tunnel that I could drive through fairly slowly with the window down while I attempt to replicate the sound.
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1995 Mazda Protege1.5 LAuto153K miles.
My car was running fine, then one day it started sputtering while driving, mostly when I accelerated. It stalled and I could not get it started. This happened on a day when it was raining hard, but not sure that had anything to do with it. A few days later when I went to pick the car up it started right up, it had stopped raining and been dry for 2 days prior. But about a mile into the drive back home it stalled and I could not get it started.
Here is what I have tested so far.
- Put in new fuel filter.
- Tested the fuel pressure and pressure regulator
- Tested the injectors with a noid light.
- Tested that the spark plugs were producing a spark.
After I pulled the plugs and cleaned and dried them (they were wet with gas) the car started, but I think not because of anything really related to the plugs. What I've noticed is that when cranking the engine if I give it gas it will not start but if I keep off the throttle it will reluctantly start. But once it starts the idle is smooth and as it should be. Then if I give it any gas it immediately stalls. It seems to me given these symptoms that it is getting enough air to idle but not enough air to match the increased gas.
The only CEL code that I'm getting (which I had before this issue occurred) is the "closed throttle position switch" (I forget the number). If it was an MAF, or IAC, or EGR issue would I not get a code? What this could be and how to test it. Again my guess is its an air intake issue but not sure where.
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Lately, when first starting my car and after it’s been sitting for a while the gas pedal seems to be stuck.
When I push on it slightly it doesn’t move; but if I push a little harder it will make a noise and become free and movable. No further problems until it sits for a while or the next morning. Then the same stuck pedal. Exert a little pressure and it frees up.
I tried squirting WD40 on the linkage but it does no good. What could cause it to bind up? 2001 Mazda Protege LX 2.0 ....
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A couple weeks ago the front brakes were done on the Mazda. Then the wheel bearings needed to be done. I think the shop outsourced what I guess was the packing of the bearings. I paid for the work, and drove away, nearly, but didn't because I had no brakes and there I was pulling out into 5:00 PM traffic. The emergency brake saved me. I walked back into the shop and they discovered the power brake booster had broken. I wonder, because if you drove the Mazda to park it in the shop lot where the customers pick up the vehicles after repairs are made, wouldn't you notice that there is no braking action. The brake pedal was high and hard and there was literally no response when I depressed it.
The shop keeper said, darn I guess I'll have to replace this, meaning pay for it, since it (may have) happened when the bearings were being worked on. My question is, is there any reason why working on bearings might end up breaking the brake booster? Chances are, it was just coincidence, right? or? I don't know. Because the car is old, he had to take several days to find the part. Anyway, he sent me off and told me to drive it carefully. The drive home was absolutely nervewracking and required continual tugging up on the emergency brake stick. I wonder if they despise my car so much now that they are sending me off to drive in it in such an unsafe condition. Anyway, hoping it will be fixed tomorrow. But my question still is ... would working on bearings possibly be cause for breaking the brake booster?
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I have a 2010 Mazda 6 with an unusual issue. When I step on the brake pedal it resists for a quick moment then seems to "collapse" and go to the floor. The resulting braking is affected, but almost unnoticeable. When I quickly release the pedal and re-apply pressure the pedal doesn't quite "collapse" as bad, but still is not as resistant as it normally is. I have taken it to the dealership three times for this issue and they can find nothing wrong with the car, the brake pedal or brake systems. It doesn't happen all the time and is not weather or outside elements specific.
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My Egg's only a week old and every time i start and get going i get this rattle(and bit of noise) thru the accelerator pedal after a few seconds- just once only and never again until I completely stop and restart to move again.
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If I am going over 60MPH and let off the gas pedal (decelerate, no brakes) I get a bad rattle/vibration that shakes mainly the dash front. only happens when I let off gas pedal. As long as I am giving gas the Bronco runs smooth, no vibration/rattle at all.
I just changed..Front Rear Brakes, Repak Front Wheel Bearings. New Front Rear Shock (deutch Tech), new track bar poly bushings, greased all joints axles, changed rear diff fluid (bottle of transX diff additive 85W-90 gear oil). It did the same thing before all this too and it is intermittent (but more so than not). Sometimes it is really violent (feels like the whole truck is going too shake loose, other times it is fine.
I am going on a long trip Thursday and this is bothering me. Cant pin point problem. One note i towed a boat for the first time last sunday and the problem went away, i.e., more wait in rear? Alignment,tires,driveshaft? I really dont have time to do anything except minor adjustments before I leave.
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I bought a 2004 F250 super duty 4x4 with the 6.0 a couple weeks ago and have a few questions. Hopefully all of these things are normal, but I thought I would ask you experienced drivers.
1) Occasionally while driving when I lift off the accelerator pedal I can hear a sort of loud rattle under the hood. I assume this is the turbo shutting down? Is that normal?
2) 4x4 and locking hubs... I have the 4x4 hi and low switch on the dash. Do I need to also manually lock the hubs to go into 4x4? After reading the manual it seems like I can just turn the dash switch and they should automatically lock, but I'm not sure. The hubs are not marked, but going by the pictures in the manual I think I know which is "lock" and which position is "auto" or off.
3) Front wheels hop at full turn. I expected wheel hop in 4x4 or with the hubs locked, but even in 2WD with the hubs in the auto position the tires still "hop" or knock a bit at sharp turns. Is this normal?
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I have. 2004 mazda rx8 with electric power steering. The power steering keeps going in and out on me. Ive checked the connections and they seem to be clean and tight. I don't know what else to try...
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I have a 2002 Mazda 626. The power steering pump sometimes squeaks for a few seconds after starting the engine. Is failure imminent ? I was planning on selling the car in the spring and would rather not get this replaced. Can the bearings be lubricated?
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I was driving my car on the highway, stopped to get gas and it started stalling but would never loose all the power. The check engine light did not go on. They have replaced spark plugs, hoses and it keeps doing the same, they told me there could be water in the fuel i pumped so i burned through the gas, drove 5 hours back home and when going uphill i would give it gas the rpms would go but no speed.
I took it to the ford/mazda dealership in town and said that the codes it was giving em they could not decipher, their best guess was a timing belt issue, they suggested i took it to an exclusive mazda dealership...but the closest one is 3 hrs away. They said it wasn't my transmission. There is no set speed when it stalls..it does it often maybe every 20 seconds or so...the car is a mazda protege 2000 with about 140000 miles...
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I have an 08 mazda tribute 2.3litre 5 speed. The truck started losing power and bucking really bad about 2 months ago. If I shut the truck off and let it sit for a few minutes, then start it back up, it runs fine for maybe 10 minutes or maybe a week then it eventually starts missing and bucking again. It throws the code p0191 which is the fuel rail pressure sensor. I have replaced the sensor twice and put new plugs, wires, coil packs, fuel filter and even replaced the pcm. The truck is still doing the same thing and throwing the same code. My Mechanic and myself are stumped.
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'99 Mazda 323 Protege. Manual, fuel-injected, 4cyl.
Engine code: CE04D16
So just recently started having troubles with the car. It ran fine then all of a sudden I lost what felt like 15-25% power, and the engine felt like it was shaking a little.
When revving, then engine would shudder. Idle rev went from just over 1000 to around 500. there was very little pickup when increasing speed. I can only assume it is losing a cylinder. But since it is fuel injected, people have been saying check the leads, (from where to where?), the distributor, spark plugs etc etc. Now for the last couple days it has been jumping backwards and forwards, from regular to slow.
What is the problem, can I fix this myself, or do I need to take it to a mechanic?
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