Mazda :: CEL Going On Intermittently - Clutch Pedal Position Indicator
Feb 1, 2013
My engine light started going on intermittently, and shortly thereafter it began to be difficult to change gears. I brought the car to a garage, and was told I need a new clutch (I have 50K miles on the car). However, the engine light says that there is a problem with the "clutch pedal position indicator."
The mechanic says that the position indicator is a separate problem, and I still need a new clutch. I don't know much about cars, but it seems to me that if the clutch doesn't know I've pushed the clutch pedal, that would explain why I have trouble changing gears.
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I accidentally stepped on the gas pedal of my brand new Mazda CX-5, when I had the car in park, while waiting for the outside bank teller. The car made a revving sound at the time, but seems to be driving OK. I am wondering if I have done any short/long term damage to the motor, engine, transmission or any other part of the vehicle.
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The noise sounds a little like a baby Road Runner, a soft little "meep" sound. I usually notice it after the car has warmed up, when I come and go from a stop sign. In lieu of strapping somebody to the hood with duct tape, I've been trying to think of a tunnel that I could drive through fairly slowly with the window down while I attempt to replicate the sound.
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My 1999 Toyota Tacoma (Ext Cab, 4x4 TRD) has 162K miles and now the clutch pedal intermittently sticks to the floor. I have to pull it off the floor with my toes while driving and have also felt the pedal start to pull back towards the floor on its own while the truck is in gear.
I'm looking for some wisdom as a few blogs/websites point towards a master cylinder, others say the master and slave, and my local auto shop said I need to replace the entire clutch assembly and throttle bearing. My truck is no spring chicken anymore but I'd like to keep it running for a few more years...
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So... I have a 99 Subaru Outback 5 speed that I love the hell out of. Anyway, recently my clutch pedal has started momentarily sticking mid return. The clutch appears to be fully engaged, but the pedal sticks, or hangs for a moment before popping the rest of the way up. Once, and only once so far, it stuck completely just for a moment before returning after being depressed again. I'm not sure how concerned I should be, and given that the car is new to me I'm still trying to familiarize myself with it.
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2003 Maxda 6 automatic transmission with 167k miles and in the past 2 days has been slow to move forward when placed in the drive position. Only happens when first starting after sitting cold all night and after sitting all day after work. The fluid level is good and clean with no "burnt" smell nor signs of metallic particles. Are the bands getting loose? If so, are they adjustable without removing transmission? Do they have to be replaced and at what cos? Is there another issue occurring?
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The gear selector on my 2005 Mazda 3 with automatic transmission is difficult to move between P, R, N, and D positions. It does not "click" or fall into position like it used to. It has gradually gotten worse. When the car is in Park, it seems to not want to go all the way up into the Park slot. Even though the car actually parked, the P will not light up on the dashboard, which sometimes causes the car not to start when the key is turned. So sometimes I have to put it in Neutral to start.
Now the problem is that when it is in Drive, it will "fall out of gear". I put that in quotes because it is still in drive, but it was shift up to a higher gear if i don't physically pull the gear selector knob back. For example, if i'm driving and the car is in 4th gear going 60mph, and the shifter know slides up an eight of an inch, the D light will go off and the car will move into a higher gear (not sure which one, feels like 2nd or 3rd) and the engine will rev up. It doesn't feel like neutral.
Is there anything I can do myself? I plan on trading in the car in the next couple months, but I'd prefer to not have to get it worked on until then.
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Where the camshaft position sensor is on a Mazda Protege5 2003. I can't seem to find any information about this particular car.
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I went to start my 97 ranger this morning and when I turned the key I got the standard indicator lights. Then when I tried to start it there was nothing no click no crank just quiet. When I turn the key back the dash indicator lights stayed on even after the key was in the off position and removed from the switch. I tried it a few more times and the same thing happened. I had to disconnect the battery so the indicator lights, radio, etc. would not drain the battery.What do I need to repair this.
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I had a dead battery in my 2002 Solara. After I had it replaced the indicator lights on the dash would stay on. Also the fan blower will keep running if not turned off. So I have accessories running with the key in the off position. I have checked all fuses and they appear good. Bad ignition switch?
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I recently bought my first EX and I finally had enough of looking at this
The transmission shift lever indicator not being in the proper position needed to be fixed!
After some searching, I realized what the issue was and was quite surprised that the "fix" is replacing the entire shift lever indicator assembly. Seems overkill but right on par of with the way the world works nowadays.
The other solution I found was by a company called Dorman. They make a Shift Indicator Cable Bracket, which is the only part that was damaged in my case as you can see here. The white part pointed at by the arrow is supposed to be attached to the rest of the white plastic.
I looked around the garage thinking I need some glue. And something to reinforce the freshly glued parts. That should have been much more difficult as I don't regularly fix tiny plastic parts BUT I quickly came across this old external hard drive cover.
Broke some tabs off, trimmed them to size and poured glue all over the place.
This is what I ended up with.
Now my OCD can focus on something else
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This issue with my 2003 Mazda Protege 5, manual transmission, has been going on for years. I'd like to sell the car, so I'd like to fix it.
On occasion I am unable to shift into first gear from a stopped position. This never happens in the late fall, winter, or early spring - it all seems to depend on how warm it is outside. It is always fine at the start of the trip, but becomes a problem in what seems like a period of time proportional to how warm it is outside. Again, when its cool outside, it pretty much doesn't happen. But once we pass 25C / 77F it is common, and will almost certainly happen on any trip of over a 10 minutes. The hotter the weather, the faster it shows up as a problem.
If I leave the car and come back after it cools down, first gear works fine again. And I can downshift into first gear as I come to a stop with no issues - I just hate riding the clutch like that, so I've been starting in second gear instead.
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So my 05 Mazda 6 was in a small fender bender several months back. One of the items that had to be replaced was the right headlight assembly. Once we got it back from the shop we noticed almost immediately that the right turn signal was working intermittently. We took it back to the shop and they said the assembly was defective so they replaced it and it worked fine for a few days. But then the intermittent problem started again. I didn't have an opportunity to take it back to the shop so we just deal with it. My state inspection is coming up soon and it won't pass if the light doesn't work. I kinda think the headlight assbly is the wrong model. It has a small led looking light in it that is on when the marker lights are on that the other original doesn't have.
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I have a 2000 Mazda 626, V6, 5-speed with 157,000 miles. The car cuts out (as if it's loosing fuel) and stalls intermittently. This has been happening for 3-4 weeks and neither my regular mechanic nor the Mazda dealer can figure out what's wrong. Here's what they've tried: new fuel pump (replaced 3 times to make sure parts not faulty), new wires and plugs, new alternator belt, replaced fuel pressure regulator, replaced mass air sensor, cleaned/checked fuel & air filters, replaced coil/distributor (2 times to make sure part not faulty), checked for vacuum leaks, checked ignition/sensors (CAM and others).
It has been stalling intermittently for 3-4 weeks, though for a while would not do it when with the mechanic. Also, the check engine light would never come on, so there were no codes to check into. Sometimes after it would stall, it would not start up again until the engine was cold. Recently, it stalled when the mechanic was test driving it. He pulled off the mass air sensor and it started right up. He replaced that part and the car was driving OK for several days. I even took it on a couple 2.5 hour round trips. Today, however, I could not get it started. It would turn over, but not fire and it seems to me that it wasn't getting enough fuel.
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My 1999 Mazda Protegé has the hiccups ...every now and then it loses power for a fraction of a second. It lasts just long enough to feel it clearly, but it's gone before I can think about it. Very distinct sensation, but it certainly doesn't push me against the seat belt. It's been doing this for over a year (about 5-7,000 miles). No Check Engine Light has appeared at any time. The timing belt was replaced a few thousand miles back.
Yes, I've had it to a mechanic, a trusted local one. I even left it with him for several days. The car won't hiccup for him. I sometimes notice it around town, but I notice it more when driving on the highway (which has probably been over half my mileage in the past year), but I'm still disappointed that it won't do it for him. He suspects a spark plug wire -- he says it's probably only one cylinder based on my description -- but doesn't want to start replacing the wires if he can't diagnose it.
Recommendations? Should I just replace the wires and figure if that doesn't do it, it's part of the cost of diagnosis? (This much I should be able to do myself.) Should I try something else? Actually, as I think about it, he could have been encouraging me to replace the wires myself.
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My 2009 Mazda Cx-9 stalls intermittently after stopping, usually at red lights. It will start back up, and no problem. The steering wheel will lock when this happens. Also on the highway, it will buck/lurch but keeps going. The engine light never comes on so the repair shop cannot seem tell me the cause of the problem. It doesn't happen everyday, and has been happening since I bought the car 18 months ago. However, in the last two days, it has stalled six times. The repair shop today says that they need to do a throttle (?) clean and that "should" clean it up. But I don't know... what do you think?There isn't a noise I can tape, because alas, there is no noise !
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I own a mazda 3 6 speed and im curious as how to test my clutch for slippage. I read on a old forum that to put the e brake up and put the car in 1st gear and release the clutch. When i did that my car tried to move but after a couple seconds i put it back in neutral. Another forum said to do the same but put it in 3rd as i released the clutch it stalled right away.
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This past weekend, however, I took it out on the highway and found it has a pretty bad vibration. The vibration is coming from the body, not the steering wheel, so i initially suspected the real wheel balance. Next I varied my speed betwn 50-75 mph expecting to feel the vibration intensity vary, but it did not. While doing that however I realized that when I let off the throttle, the vibration stops. Given it some gas and it comes right back.
I got off the highway and pulled in to a parking lot. Driving at parking lot speeds, accelerating or not, there is no vibration. Come to a stop either in gear or neutral, and the engine is rock solid steady. Then got back on the local streets and the vibration returned but only while accelerating, even gently.
At this point I should mention that we replace a bad motor mount a yr and a half ago when we bought the car, the upper passenger side. The mount damage was easily so it was an easy diagnose. Replacing it eliminated the vibration the car had at the time. We had also planned to replace the lower rear mount at the same time but the one we bought was defective, and the one we removed from the car looked fine, so we put it back in.
So now I am wondering if the rear mount has failed, but it is not possible to see the rubber unless you removed it. Could it be an issue with the engine itself, or do all these symptoms point to the mount?
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It's a 2002 Mazda Protege... The car shut off once while running in the driveway. Completely: engine, radio, everything. I took the key out and put it back in a couple of times and got nothing, no click, no turning over. Did it one more time, and it started up as if nothing was wrong.
Then again the next morning. Car won't start. I notice all the electronics are working while the key is in the accessories position. They shut off as soon as the key is in On, and nothing when turning to start. Took the key out, waited a minute or so, then tried again and everything worked as if nothing was wrong. I'm guessing this might be the ignition switch?
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What is wrong with this car? There is no check engine light, but when I try to accelerate, especially going up a hill, past 2k, there is resistance and it feels like I have my foot on the brake, and gas pedal at the same time. The car will not go past 40mph going uphill. I have had the spark plugs changed, still no good, I have emptied the gas, in case it was bad gas, I have added water cleaner to the gas tank in case it had water in it, was worse, added sea foam to clean the engine, then 40k to clean the gas tank better, seemed a bit better, now worse, added cleaner to the gas tank for my other things, forgot the word, and still my car does not accelerate, and rattles. I have had a car guy drive it, and I had a mechanic hook it up to a computer, some reading d4, said intermittent missing, I could tell them that! The words possible coil, cam, electrical , have come up, but the guy who drove it, didn't think it was the cam or coil?? I just bought this car with 100,000 miles to own a simple car that works, after enjoying my jaguar for 10 years. If I didn't need a car for work I would toss them all away! This is a Mazda miata...
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This has happened twice now, about a month ago and then again today.
I was stopped at a light with my foot on the brake. There is a clunk noise, then the indicator light comes on.
The first time I tried to go, and the car stayed put. I hit the parking button, then went back into gear, no problem.
The second time I just put it in park and then back to gear. No problem.
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