Mazda - 929 :: 1992 - No Heat But The A/C Works
Jan 29, 2012
I have a 1992 Mazda 929 in which the heat does not work while the a/c does work perfectly. When the problem first occurred the fusible link for the A/C was broken (indicative of some electrical overload). I replace the fusible link and still no heat.
I went under the passenger side of the dash and changed every visible black box (fuse/sensors)that is attached to the heater core unit. After that the heat still did not work.In relation to this problem the care now runs hot whenever I am a red light or in stop and go traffic.This seems to me a that a mechanical gate from the engine is not opening to allow the hot fluid from the engine to get into the heater core.
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I've noticed this winter that my Mazda 3's heater is barely working using fresh air. It definitely gives out warmer air than the outside temperature, but not by a whole lot. If I turn on air recirculation, then the air becomes appropriately warm. What would cause the heater to work one way and not the other?
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Have no heat, the a/c works fine, ran the diag. and got codes 1262,1265,1947, and 5041, I don't even know where to begin.
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I have a 2003 Camry XLE (4 cyl). The heat will only work when the A/C is on. If A/C is off, air will blow from the vents, but it is not hot. What part needs to be fixed/replaced?
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So after replacing the entire clutch assembly, coil packs, plugs,valve cover gasket, thermostat housing, blah blah blah basically a tons of new parts. I get her up and running and notice my heat only works when under throttle...yup water pump...but wait what's that milky substance under the valve cover cap now never ran hot but appears to have blown the head gasket as well. Doing compression test this weekend..
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I'm having issues with my 09 Camry. Yesterday my water pump shoot craps on me. SO this morning I replaced the water pump. After replacing the water pump I noticed that the heat would work only when the car is moving. So I went to the store again and bought a thermostat. Replaced that and the heat still only work when the car is in motion. So I checked the radiator cap it was bad I was able to hold it in my hand and spend it with the other hand. Ok replaced the radiator cap. I let the car sit at idle running and the heat worked shortly then it started to blow cool again. I checked the radiator hoses and the lower hose was cold right along with the thermostat housing.
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97 passat vr6. I only get warm air from the vents when I'm accelerating. As soon as I come to a stop it starts blowing cold air. Does this mean there is air in the system? If so how do I bleed it out?
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I have replaced the water pump,oil pump,timing belt an tensioners, done a head job an now it wants to start missing when you put a strain on the motor[going up hill] but doesn't on level ground.
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Replaced the front oil seal on a 1992 mazda B2200 an it starts leaking again after running for about 20 minutes? Is there any where else oil can come from near there?
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5.4 V8... A/C works for 30min. then stops blowing cold air. Turn system off for 15min. and it will blow cold air again for another 15min. then stops again. Passenger floor area gets cold and can hear fan blowing but no air coming out of vents.
In winter now and stops blowing hot air after 30-40min of driving. Turn system off for 15min. and will blow hot again. Had new A/C compressor and a/c clutch installed back in summer.???
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My front heat controls work at start up occasionally. The heat will eventually come on in front after 15-30 minutes of the truck running. Needless to say this sucks for defrosting the front window during warm up. The rear controls work fine. I do have a couple that need replacing but the fan control isn't one. Temp & selectors. I've searched but haven't been able to find anything about same issue. Where to start?
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Temp knob is turned full to hottest setting and heat only blows warm. I checked the hose from the IACV and hose from just past the Thermostat housing and they are also hot. Where the hose enters the "Damper" just outside the firewall, it is hot but the small portion of hose after the damper into the firewall is only moderately warm. Is it possible that damper is clogged or is the heating coil iside the car clogged?
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I have a 1992 mazda b2600i, recently lost all brakes. Changed the master cylinder, but now I have a major problem!! I have no power to start it. I have head lights, dome lights, horn, buzzer when key is in start position. Nothing when try to start, no click, no trying to start nothing!! I have changed the main relay, all fuses. broke down and contacted a mechanic and he is telling me that I have to have the 2 computers replaced... there is one under the kick panel on the pass side and one under the driver seat!!
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So, for a couple of weeks my g/f's Passat has had no heat. The blower fan runs and the AC works but the heat is non-existent. Fast forward to this morning and now all of a sudden her heat miraculously works again. The car has 170k miles on the clock and had the timing belt and water pump done around 120k miles. The thermostat I'm not too sure about. I don't know when (if ever) the system has had a coolant flush so I plan on doing that this weekend. Is it okay to use something other than the G12 VW originally put in it?
At first I thought maybe her heater core was clogged but if it is I don't understand why the heat would start working again. Any tutorial on how to flush this motor properly and how to access the heater core lines so I can try to clear it? On my car it's a piece of cake but her VW stumps me sometimes.
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I recently ran very low on coolant with my 2005 Prius and had the overheat light coming on. Immediately before the overheat light came on, I realized that the blower was blowing cold air even though the engine was running. When the light came on, I immediately stopped and refilled coolant at the overflow reservoir and the radiator and let it run through a few times. I have re-topped off the coolant levels and it seems to be holding steady. Hopefully I have not done long-term damage to the engine, but that remains to be seen, and is, of course, very possible given that I let it get so low.
A symptom I have right now is that when I turn the car/engine on, hot air does not come out of the blower. If I remain in park, when the engine turns off, hot air begins to come out. When the engine kicks back in, the hot air stops. What this may be a symptom of?
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Having issue with heat only working when the temp is at 90? I turn it down one click 85 and it goes cold?
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I drive a 1992 Mazda Protege. Recently had an oil change and put in new air filter. Recently the check engine light has been coming on. Sometimes it will run rough and sputter a bit when the light flips on and then runs normal after the light flips off, sometimes it seems to run fine when the light comes on, but the light does go off and the car runs fine after it has been running for a few minutes. Shortly before I had my air filter and oil changed I did have an incident at a stop light where the car died and did not restart for a full five minutes, at which point it sputtered for a bit and then got me home.
I took into the local mazda service center and dealer (they were the only ones who had the right kind of connector to pull the error of a car this old), and they said the only code coming up was a p69 which indicated a bad thermoswitch. I have already paid for it but the parts won't be in until Saturday. I have until then to cancel the repair and just pay restock and the original diagnostic fees. Should I go through with this repair, or do the symptoms described indicate something else?
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My 2001 f150 super crew, the heat only works on speeds 1-3. All 4 speeds blow air fine, I'm talking about the temperature. not the blower. Could it be the heat resistor?
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I have an F-250 Ford, 2006, 6.0 turbo-diesel. Started noticing that my heat only works while running at 70 mph or more and the turbo is at around 15-20 psi. Now that it has gotten cold it is definitely an issue. Truck does not overheat, I am not able to feel heat on the hose after control vlave and I do not feel any vacuum on the line (grey) to the control valve. I have checked for leaks, changed out the fill cap, checked anti-freeze level, pulled control valve just to verify its position when opened (which it seems to stay open). It's getting really cold in the cab of that truck now.
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1992 Ranger 4x2 with 2.3L stick shift no AC no power steering. Recently the temp gauge began fluttering in the cold range from far left to just below the normal range. The defrost and heater blows only cold air. I had a professional shop radiator flush done. No change. I changed the engine thermostat out for a new one but no change. The upper radiator hose feels hot, so I assume the thermostat is working.
Questions: Where is the temp gauge sensor located on the engine? Is there another sensor or shutoff before the heater that might not be working? Where do I take things apart to check if the heater blend door is working?
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I have a 2003 Mazda Tribute that seems to have a bit of an idling issue. When my heat on my car is off, everything is fine as far as the idle speed. When I have the heat on, even when it is low, and I am stopped, the rpm's rise a bit, then go back down to normal idling speed. The car also gives a little jump when I come to a stop. I think all of this is related to turning the heat on and off, as it doesn't happen when the heat is on.
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