Mazda - 626 :: 2002 - Coolant Leak In Middle Part Of Engine?
Oct 30, 2013
I have a 2002 Mazda 626 with 134,00 miles. About a month ago there was a large coolant leak in the middle part of the engine. My mechanic replaced the coolant by-pass hose from the thermostat housing under exhaust manifold to engine block. A few days ago there was another leak around where the coolant reservoir is. Gauge read hot and had to top off coolant on way to repair shop. Topped off reservoir and next morning most of the coolant had drained out. My mechanic has done a pressure check, drove the car, let it sit and idle for up to an hour and there was no leak or overheating.
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I've got a 1997 Dogde Ram 1500 Pickup. It's got a major coolant leak that seems to be coming right from the middle of the front of the engine. I can't see where it's coming from. I changed the thermostat and the water pump, but it seems to be even behind that. There is a rubber hose that comes off the water pump and disappears between the two banks. I can only see a tiny end of it, where it goes. It looks like getting to that would involve taking off the whole intake manifold. If that's the case, I might as well total the truck. I dunno...
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The wife and I were driving back to Sacramento yesterday. It was pretty hot around 95 when we left Stonyford, CA after a day of trail riding with our dirt bikes. From the staging area to the freeway, the distance was about 40 miles of slow twisty roads. We average around 30-45 miles per hour with full AC running. Once we got to the freeway and drove about 20 miles, we pulled to a McDonalds at which point I noticed a weird smell and smoke coming from under the hood. We opened the hood and notices smoke coming from the middle of the engine. I also noticed coolant leaking from under the engine. I waited an hour and then pour about 3 gallons of concentrate coolant back into the system. It seems to stopped leaking. We drove another 45 miles to home. Coolant hasn't leaked. I can't take this truck out until I figure this out and fix it.
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I have a 1990 mazda 2600i 4x4 truck that is leaking coolant on the right side of the engine about mid ways back. What that could be coming from? My light was very dim and I couldn't tell much by looking.
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2014 fx4 6.2. Had a coolant leak. Brought to dealer for warranty work. Found a leak in middle lower tube area. Said they replaced radiator part # BL3Z-8005-D. It sure looks like my old radiator still under the hood complete with squished bugs. Am I missing something?
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I was just changing the oil on my wifes 2008 Escape and noticed a oil leak. At first I thought it was an oil pan gasket,But its higher than that. Then I thought maybe an axle boot but it's also higher than that. It's on the passenger side about the middle of the engine right under neath the biggest pulley.
Its a cylinder shape mold coming off the engine about an inch long with a bolt on the end of it. I'm not seeing oil any higher than that and seems to be coming from there from what I can see. Is this something common with the Escapes?The truck has 55,650 miles on it and this is the first issue so far.The wifes first escape we traded for this was an 01 with 200,000.
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I have a oil leak that I can't seem to find it appears to be leaking down above the passenger side valve cover and then goes under the engine cover. I don't notice much oil in the valley. This is a 2011 f250 6.7 with 116000 miles on it. I have had no other problems with this truck. Could this be the turbo lines? I am on a RV trip several hundred miles from home so I have very limited tools. The leak doesn't appear to be bad at this point the valve cover is wet with a small drip but it's only in the middle. I just changed my oil prior to the trip when I noticed the leak. I did have a leak on the new filter but a new filter fixed that but still have this one higher up.
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I noticed my 2002 Camry XLE was overheating and discovered that I had lost a lot of coolant. I topped off the radiator with pink 50/50 and went for a little drive, after parking I noticed a slow coolant drip that would eventually stop.
I took it into a shop, and they did a pressure test and found the leak was from SOMEWHERE behind the intake manifold. They also told me that it may be a "common" problem in my year that the threads in the cylinder block are pulling out, causing the cylinder head to lift and coolant to leak. They claim that they have to pull of the the valve cover gasket and inspect the torque for the headbolts, if they're loose I'd need to replace the engine block (!!!)
My thoughts are that it must be coming from somewhere near the intake manifold. I just had it replaced five months ago and am thinking something went wrong in the process.
I guess my questions are, is the bolt loosening thing legit? I'm not burning off coolant (have checked exhaust and it's clean, not white or anything). And what if anything could have gone wrong in replacing the intake manifold to cause said leak?
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I noticed today when I was in a drive thru that ,y Jetta was smoking a little.... Went home ate my food and came out and looked underneath the Jetta and found a substantial coolant leak..... My heater core is bad I know this already... Would this cause coolant to leak outside the car or the carpet only??? I jacked up the car and checked for leaks... There is coolant all over the rear engine mount... And the driver side corner of the engine is pretty soaked in coolant....I can't pin point the leak..... There is a connection coming out of the side of the head that's got a little pinky crusty stuff on it but I can't see anywhere around it...
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I have a coolant leak coming from I am assuming the thermostat housing or thermostat. My question is, is there a gasket behind this that I am assuming is bad or is the thermostat bad.
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I got home tonight and smelled coolant. Looked under the car, coolant everywhere. I see the issue: a big hose (maybe 2" in diameter) has a tear in it and is spraying out coolant. I'm going to replace it, but once I do, how should I add coolant back into the radiator? Do I just pour it into the overflow?
2002 toyota camry 4 cylinder
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My '02 F150 180k X-cab with the 5.4L is leaking coolant when it is shut off. Its just pouring right out.It looks like it's coming from top of the trans and around the firewall area. I had to replace a drain plug already.. the one behind starter ..its not leaking.
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Son in law just bought a 2002 Explorer with the 4.0. Looks in pretty good shape and overall I don't think he got a bad deal. However....after a test drive I noticed an antifreeze smell. Got to poking around and it appears to be leaking directly below the thermostat housing and that whole manifold for lack of a better word. It's a bugger to get in there and really see what's leaking...doesn't appear to be any hoses but given the angle can't be really sure. I'm new to the Explorer and the 4.0. Is this anything peculiar to the Explorer/4.0? A known part problem? Something far worse?
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My Mazda 626 is in service for an engine warning light and my mechanic says that they will need to plug an exhaust leak in the rear manifold . And he's not sure that will solve the issue - a new cat converter may or may not be needed.
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The problem that causes the check engine light to come on cannot be traced. The diagnosis is multi engine misfire. The dealer has checked and recheckedbut problem still exists. The last time my mechanic changed spark plugs he noticed oil on one of the plugs he removed in the rear side of the engine. He replaced the plug with the rest of them. Could it be that one or more of the spark plugs are sucking oil and causes the misfire? If so what could be the cause of that. Do I need a full tuneup? My dealer recommends replacing the cam shaft pulley because it's loose and this may or may not solve the problem. I'm not a mechanic but it appears as if the problem has something to do with the spark plugs sucking oil since the check engine light might go ou for a week or so and then come back on for a while. Lastly is it dangerous to keep driving the car especially on long trips?
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My 2002 has had a slow coolant leak for quite a while (maybe a quart a month). Now, however, I am losing over a gallon a week, but with NO visible leak!
The oil is clear, with no signs of antifreeze in it, so I am guessing the head gaskets are ok. But I am perplexed as to where my coolant is going!
After reading more threads in the forum, (which I should have done more thoroughly before posting,) it seems that I may indeed have a head gasket leak. From what I've learned, that would cause me to lose coolant through the exhaust while driving, and would explain why I don't see a visible leak anywhere. Am I on the right track? Before I replace the head gaskets, are there any other causes that may have a simpler fix??
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The oil cooler mounted above the oil filter on my 2002 Explorer 4.0L V6 has a major coolant leak on one of the external line/hose bib elbow. I've googled Explorer oil coolers and I've searched this forum with no luck. Can you bypass it without any problems mechanically or electronically (throwing error codes)? I have already purchased a new cooler and the lower oil cooler line. I'm just wondering if I should return the parts and bypass it. If I go through the replacement, I noticed the cooler is mounted by a pass through threaded tube with a hex head molded into it for fastening/loosening purposes. What size hex head socket it is?
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2002 Mazda MPV Engine Light comes on. At first I thought we left the gas cap off or did not tighten it down. I waited all week to see if the light would go out but no luck. I filled the tank up with gas and the light went out right away on start up. We drove the car for several days and the light went back on. I then filled the tank again and the light went right out on start up.
I thought it might be a bad gas cap so I replaced it. Again we drove the car for several more days and the light went on. Filled up again and lights out. We did notice that the light stayed off longer when the weather is colder. The light usually goes out with in the first 1/4 tank depending on how cold the days are.
The mechanic that is working on it now says the code is P0443. He checked everything mechanical finding nothing. Now he is claiming it is an electrical problem and needs more time $$$ to find it.
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I have had issues for over a week now first problem check engine light not sure of the code but the mechanic said it was the spark plugs and vaccum leak hose (which I knew about the hose). $205.00 later replaced all 6 plugs and hose. Now today on way to work I'm getting that hesitation when in lower gear such as stopping and then accelerating it jerks some it was doing this alot before replacing the plugs.
We did a diagnostic code reader and it said the code P2402 I did read it could be my gas cap which I don't have a dealer gas cap on there now I did about 1 yr 1/2 ago but got a lock key gas cap instead. I have been doing some reading I would need to replace leak detection pump which apparently costly in repair.
BTW car has 119,000 miles I commute far from work 5 days a week. My car is very important part of my life! I did also read someone stated there was a recall on Mazda 6 wondering do I need to call the dealership to see if this is actual recall and I can cross my fingers get this fixed on them.
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I'm trying to figure where the coolant leak is. Appears to originate on the driver's side front, right near the thermostat housing. Since the engine tilts back the entire drivers side is wet. The thermostat gasket appears to be OK, but it does have a lot of miles on it.
If it's not the thermostat then can coolant leak from the cross over tube. And is the cross over removable without taking off the intake. There appears to be a bolt coming up from underneath on the passenger side.
Also, does coolant flow through this plastic intake. If it does, then the leak could be some where else, if not, then it's probably the thermostat.
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I have a 2002 Mazda Tribute V6 with 151K. My check engine light has come off and on for quite a while now, mostly it would come on when it rained and then go off when the weather cleared. When it was on, the engine would sputter or misfire. I first had Auto Zone hook it up and they said it needed its plugs and wires changed. No problem. I took it in to a repair place and was informed that I don't have plugs and wires, but something with coils and that since it was impossible to determine which coil was bad, all would have to be replaced at a cost of $1500. I then took it to another repair place and they said the same thing. Now I have seen some discussions regarding this same thing and apparently some people have been able to identify a specific coil. At this point my check engine light is now on all the time and I'm really worried about doing terrible damage.
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