Mazda - 626 :: 1999 - Transmission Does Not Go In Drive
Jan 29, 2014
Recently my daughters 626 stopped going into drive, 1st and 2nd as well as reverse work. Dealer says the transmission is shot...I would like another opinion. Has fluid though I do not know the last time the filter or fluid was changed. Car only has 90K on it.
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Replaced the idle air solenoid and the car still vibrates in drive when at the light, etc.. Engine mounts were replaced though I am sure that isn't relevant. Anything I can look for?
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I have 1999 Mazda Protege that has a transmission fluid leak. I took it to a transmission shop close by, and they said it is either the torque converter or the front pump. I also have oil in the coolant reservoir, which I was told they wouldn't be able to tell where the oil is coming from until the leak is fixed.
My question, is what could have caused either the torque converter or the front pump to leak? Wear and tear and old age? Or could it have been caused by something else?
I realize at some point I will just have to decide, but any input on whether it's a worthwhile fix? The shop quoted me $787 for the front pump, and said the torque converter would be a few hundred more. That's not taking into account the possible issue with the radiator from the oil in the coolant reservoir.
The car has approximately 160,000 miles on it. The catalytic converter will need to be fixed at some point in the future, the O/D light is flashing (though I'm not sure if it's related to my transmission problems at all), cruise control doesn't work, and the drivers side mirror is broken...
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My 1999 Saturn SC2 won't shift in drive. If I put in 3 it shifts and when I get going faster I can put in D. Once it gets warm it shifts in D. What causes this and how to fix it?
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My tranny is acting odd. I put in drive and seems to slip a lot in 1st, barely even move at some times. If I put it in 1st with the shifter it goes in and grabs then I can shift up to 2nd or drive and there aren't problems. It drives normally when not from dead stop.
Transmission has 50k miles on it since replacement. Fluid level is normal. I don't tow and drive it particularly hard. I will have to go back and look at miles since last fluid change. I should be right around 30k miles since last change.
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My mechanic just informed me that because of my extreme drop, the drive shafts are at an angle that is stressing the final drive bearing on the transmission. I am leaking very small amount of fluid, he said it might not be a big deal.
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I have a problem with my transmission slipping. It seems to happen most often when I have shifted from park into drive and am going uphill. I don't really notice a problem with it when I am on flats or even at red lights. It can drift backwards for 10-15 feet before "catching."
I don't feel any problem when I am going faster or in higher gears. 1999 Ford Explorer SOHC 6 Cyl 4.0...
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I've had a 1999 explorer for a few months. The transmission has always taken a couple of seconds to "catch" in drive and was then fine. Today, I had to tow another car a short distance and now going into drive directly is useless.
I must shift into 2nd and then back into drive. Then, for the most part, the car drives fine unless I have to put it in Park or in Reverse. Then I must repeat the procedure.
The fluid is fresh and the dipstick shows a slight overfill. Is there anything I can do about this or is this the death of the transmission. If I can run it another couple of years, I'd be satisfied.
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I just purchased a F250 Gasser with the 6.2. I made sure to get it with the 4.30 rear to babl to tow a little better when i upsize the tires a little. Where I can find the drive output ratio from the transmission?
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I have a 1999 F250 super duty that blew a front seal on the transmission two weeks ago. I sent it to a shop and they replaced the seal, and torque converter. However when they put it back in it will not engage in drive or reverse. After working on it several days we replaced the transmission with another one from a service company. This replacement came with a 90 day warranty. However once it was installed it does the same thing and will not engage in drive, or reverse. I am not sure what is going on but with two doing the same thing it makes me thing maybe electrical or something else.
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I have a 93 f250 4x4 with a 5.8 liter with 69 thousand miles.. the problem I'm having Is if I put It in drive it won't shift out of first but if I manually shift it from 1st to 2nd to drive it works but shifts very hard. Sometimes it will shift in drive but It shifts really hard. I don't know what It could be. We just put the transmisson back into the truck due to having to change a broken flywheel. It just don't Seem like it has any power...
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I've managed to remove 95% of my driver's side drive shaft but can't for the life of me remove the spline from the transmission. I cut the boot so all there is is the cup with the spline plugged into the gear box. I've pried and pried with a screwdriver and drove a chisel with a hammer in between the cup (not sure the proper term for it) and it wouldn't budge. I'm going to try and track down a puller that will work on this car but that might take days or weeks. I have to work tomorrow night so my question: Will it do any harm to the transmission or be unsafe to drive with only one drive shaft?
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This mazda is relatively quiet when on park and neutral and can feel more shake (feel from steering) while shifting to drive mode while idle/before redlight. it can feel more shake while on speed over 70 mph. it feel ok on speed lower than 70 mph. Just wonder if the engine/trans mount is the root cause. The trans is on drive side and engine is on passenger side. engine inside mount has been replaced and does not solve the problem much.
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2003 Maxda 6 automatic transmission with 167k miles and in the past 2 days has been slow to move forward when placed in the drive position. Only happens when first starting after sitting cold all night and after sitting all day after work. The fluid level is good and clean with no "burnt" smell nor signs of metallic particles. Are the bands getting loose? If so, are they adjustable without removing transmission? Do they have to be replaced and at what cos? Is there another issue occurring?
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Noticed slow to move forward at a stop sign, pulled in to get gas, after fillup would not drive forward in any gear, drives fine in reverse. The station attendant checked the fluid, said it was a little low bot looked ok and did not smell burnt. He added some more but no luck. Was able to get home, short drive in first. Should i try to drive to transmission shop if any better or tow? No problems in past 178K, kept up with all regular service and fluid changes. Does this sound like a doomed transmission? Anything i can do short term to get thru holidays?
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I have a 2006 F250 Lariat super Duty / 6.0 L engine / 143000+ miles / once started and transmission shifted into drive it takes 5 seconds or more for it to engage hard or if I build up the RMS then it jumps into gear hard, after it gets going it feels like I am driving on a washboard until it get warmed up good 10 mile or so. Is it the transmission filter and if so which one, I understand there is a small one on the outside of the transmission if so where? I can't find it.
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I have a 2003 Mazda 6 and heard a rattling sound in the engine ONLY when the car is in drive or reverse, never when in Park. My mechanic said it is the clutch in the alternator that is coming apart and so the Alternator - tensioner - belt all needs to be replaced for a total of almost $800. Does this seem reasonable?
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The engine "pings" shortly after I get in and drive it when the car is warming up. I watch the engine temp rise...and when it starts to get warm just before the thermostat opens and the temp drops the car "ping or pre-detonate" when the accelerator is gently pressed. After the engine warms up... no problems. I drove it from Port Angeles Wa to southern Oregon with out it ever happening... but when I drive a short distance to town it consistently happens. I have checked what I know how to but beyond that it seems odd. Its it normal for the engine temp to rise up warmer than the normal operating temp, and then drop back down? The thermostat was recently replaced. It seems something is creating excess vacuumduring the warmup time that makes the engine ping. All the vacuum gizmos and gadgets make me crazy...
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I have a 2002 7.3 e350 quigley 4x4 Sportsmobile with 312k miles. 2nd owner. Bought it with 295k miles 2 years ago. From what I gathered the tranny is original.
After reversing at a downhill angle, stopping, and shifting the lever to Drive, the tranny doesn't seem to put Drive in gear and depending on the angle of the slope, the van will roll back or barely creeps forward even with throttle. Put it in 1st gear, and the tranny engages that in gear and drives forward no issues, then I can shift to 2nd, then Drive and the tranny shifts fine after that.
No weird tranny noises or clunking. Noticed this issue about a month ago or about a couple thousand miles ago. Did tranny service (drain, filter, fill) at the ford dealership at 305k months ago.
I can only replicate this issue when Reversing on a down slope. On a flat surface van Reverses and engages Drive like normal.
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My front driver's side tire squeaks like an old mattress when I drive, especially over any bumps or when turning. Could this be caused by a cracked wheel rim? I got new tires and had them rotated/balanced about 3 months ago. The squeaking started right before this so I asked the tire place to check it out, but they said they didn't see anything. The squeaking has become increasingly more annoying since then. Note: I also got new struts about 6 mos ago and then drove my car across country. Since then I have driven quite a bit in the city which involves very bad pot holes.
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So i was cleaning my 2007 mazda miata and i noticed one wheel has some fairly deep scratched grooves inside of it. I inspected all the other tires and the other front tire has similar marks but they are way way more of a surface/barely there scratches. The rear wheels are not scratched. I am also hearing a rotational noise when i drive. It gets faster as I accelerate and slower when I brake. I don't know anything about cars.
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