Replaced the idle air solenoid and the car still vibrates in drive when at the light, etc.. Engine mounts were replaced though I am sure that isn't relevant. Anything I can look for?
View 18 RepliesLast week I had the plugs, coils, valve cover gasket and fuel filter done my 2004 Ford Escape when the engine started misfiring and today it started to idle rough at a stoplight and it seemed like it was going to stall but didn't. I had it sit for about an hour and a half and the it did want to turn over like the battery did have enough cold crank to it but it did after a couple of times. It has come and gone for the last couple of hours. No warning lights are one either. It seems pretty close to what it was doing when it was misfiring. What it may be?
View 10 RepliesI tried searching and only found rough idle at startup, so here is my issue. At the same point in my AM drive, quite often I'll come to a stoplight and the motor will idle fairly roughly. If I switch to the "car" on the dash, it indicates the motor should be off. It is not charging the battery. Today it did it when I was only one bar from full battery. Also did it at the next light I came to.
This happens at the end of the commute. I've already covered 40+ mostly highway miles.
We have a 1997 Saturn. For the past few months, whenever we're at a stoplight it suddenly fluctuates in RPMs, giving it a rough idle (going from 1000 down to 500 or so for a second or two, before coming back up to normal). It appears to be temperature sensitive (i.e. the longer the car runs or the hotter the outside temp, the more often this occurs). I sprayed the throttle body connection and vacuum connections to attempt to find a potential vacuum leak, with no effect. We've already had the transmission replaced, and haven't been having any other idle issues besides this. What else might be causing it.
View 4 Repliesonce the eng is warmed up and i come to a stop with the brake pedal depressed, transmission in drive the engine idles down to~500 rpm and is rough. if i use the hand brake with it still in drive and remove my foot from the brake pedal idle speed increases and it runs smooth at ~750rpm, apply pressure to the brake pedal again and in a few seconds it's idling rough again. Runs strong in all other speed and load conditions. I thought it was a vac leak in the brake booster so I isolated(plugged) the vac line to the brake booster, and every other vac line but it makes no difference. I removed and cleaned the throttle body, no difference. The only thing that makes the idle smooth out when the brake pedal is depressed is if i remove the fuse for the horn/brake lights(found this out from another blog, but they never said if they were able to determine the reason/solution. Why would removing this fuse affect the idle? is there some type vac solinoid that's activated when the brake pedal is applied?
View 2 RepliesThis problem has been getting worse over the last 2 years. When the car starts it idles fine at about 1000 RPM. As soon as it warms up, it starts to idle rough, between 500 and 750 RPM. It almost quits running. As soon as you give the car some gas it runs just fine. About 3 weeks ago I got a "Engine Lean" check engine light error. I reset the system and have not gotten the error again. Since then I have: changed the MAF cleaned the EGR (made sure it closes completely and ohm out the coils in the actuator) changed the O2 meter on the exhaust manifold cleaned out the throttle body Ohmed out the air idle controller. What I should check next. I was planning to check the fuel pressure in case it is a fuel system problem. It is a 1999 ....
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Mazda 6. When it is cold - I start the vehicle & begin to drive. When I slow down and the RPMS get around 1000 - the car begins to run really rough & try to stall. If I put my foot on the gas - I can usually prevent it from stalling. The problem disappears once the car gets warm. The dealership recalibrated the PCM based on a Mazda Alert. However, it has not corrected the issue. Looking for thoughts on what could be causing this?
View 5 RepliesMy right rear supercab door will not stop squeaking/chattering when driving or idle at a stoplight.. I know this is a common problem for these trucks but how do I fix or dr it up?
View 7 RepliesI have a 96 Mazda Protege DX. 1.5L engine, now with 161,000 miles. 5 speed manual transmission. I had it for 7 years. Originally bought it for $1900 with 121,000 miles.
This has been a problem for about 5 years. When I am at a red light or idling and I step on the brake, my idle gets rough and my engine feels like it is about to turn off. The idle does not bounce up and down. It just goes down to 400-500rpm from the normal 800-950rpm range.
Again, this only happens when I step on the brake while the car is not moving. It does not seem to happen when I coast in neutral and hit the brake to slow down. I raised the idle a bit, but it still does it. I could not find any vacuum leak around the brake booster and I know the brake booster works because I pumped my brakes while the car was off, and when I turn the car on, the brakes soften up.
Also, my brakes feel weak. I usually hit the brakes nearly to the floor board to stop the car. New pads, rotors are good. Brake fluid is at right level. Mechanics say nothing is wrong with my brakes.
Secondly, my belts screech at every start up. Lasts anywhere from 3-20 seconds. This has been happening for the entire 7 years I have owned the car. Mechanics replaced the serpentine belts twice in that time. Replaced a pulley and A/C compressor. I tried using WD40 but it doesn't effect it. Mechanics tell me that the belt tension is correct and they do not know why it still screeches.
1990 Mazda Protege with a 1.8L DOHC, manual 5-spd transmission, ~173K miles on it. On my way home the other day, the car ABRUPTLY started to run very rough - with what I would call repetitive and incessant stuttering when accelerating (though I am by no means technical with respect to cars). I shut the car down, hoped the problem would go away, but when I started it up later that day, the problem was still there - the car BOTH idles rough and doesn't accelerate very smoothy. When I come to a stop, the car feels as if it's going to stall but stays running. This afternoon, I took it out on the road for ~3 mile drive (up to ~ 50 mph) and the problem is the same - but I did also notice, when driving, that the car gave off a smell reminiscent of firecrackers - perhaps a sulfur-ish smell. I googled the issues I was having and I got a whole array of problems - ranging from simply bad spark plug wires (which have been replaced in the past 1.5 years) to a stuck EGR valve .
Here's some additional info on my car: -Was just in the shop 2wks ago for overheating - found the thermostat to be bad - they replaced it and I no longer have the overheating issue. While there, they also replaced the belts for the alternator and water pump (Which had been squealing for quite some time) -Spark plug wires and distributor cap were both replaced in the last 1.5 years -Last oil change was > 6 months (but less than 3000 miles) ago - all the fluid levels seem to be fine -Though I think it is unrelated, the car is also making a high pitched squeaking noise emanating from the R front of the car while driving - I suspect this is the suspension-related as the shop informed me that I have one front stablizer link broken while the other is loose (and when I push down on the R-front side of car while it is not running it yields a similar squeaking noise.
1996 Ranger 2.3 140 CID XLT 126,000 Miles. When coming to a stoplight or stopping the engine idle is low and causing engine to almost die. Engine has been stuck at high idle a couple of times. It started with the engine idle slowly coming down and now it its too low. I suspect the Idle air control valve.
View 1 RepliesOur 1998 Taurus slips out of Drive occasionally when stopped at a stoplight. It is an automatic, and we shift it into Park,then back into Drive, and it will go again. This is intermittant so far. Is the transmission kaput? Any other things to check out?
View 4 RepliesRecently my daughters 626 stopped going into drive, 1st and 2nd as well as reverse work. Dealer says the transmission is shot...I would like another opinion. Has fluid though I do not know the last time the filter or fluid was changed. Car only has 90K on it.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 150,000 miles that is meticulously maintained. This past winter (as far as winter goes in San Diego) the engine would run rough and the rpm's would drop close to stalling when stopping at a light for the first 2 or 3 miles. After that the engine has warmed and there is no problem. Could this be the intake gaskets needing replacement. This only happens on a cool or damp, rainly morning.
View 6 RepliesI recently bought a 2014 4-cylinder SE, sight unseen. I test drove another 4-cylinder SE that I recall idled smoothly before I bought mine - or at least I did not notice it, but this one was a trade from another lot and had all of the options that I wanted.
So - is it "normal" for the 4-cylinder Camrys to idle very rough with or without the A/C on, and in drive? I have tried a tank of 87, and a tank of 93 octane. Very small difference in smoothness on 93 octane, but I'd prefer not to have to run that. I owned a 4-cylinder 2008 Chevrolet Malibu before this car, and it idled much smoother than this Camry.
I also have a weird grind that sounds like the starter isn't disengaging when I start the car in the mornings. Push-button start on my car, so it isn't me turning the key too long or anything of that sort.
I have a nissan maxima 2000 that sputters and the problem is getting progressively worse. If I am at a stoplight or just stopped with the drive gear on the car sputters. It skips almost every second, but if i put in in park the it runs smoothly. Now I notice that it is sputtering even when I am driving( it was not doing it before). I have already changed the sparkplugs and cleaned the injectors. Now I am debating whether i should change coils and boots. The repair is quite expensive so i want to make sure I am doing the right thing.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 Accent with about 150,000 miles on it. Recently I have noticed that when my car is sitting in an intersection, the car appears to idle roughly. I would't exactly say that the car is idling rough, cause it stays at a consistent RPM while in drive or park, but the engine gets louder and the steering wheel starts to vibrating. When I slightly step on the gas, the vibration goes away. Also, when I put my car in park or neutral, the car quiets down and the vibrating stops.
I was wondering if it could be the throttle position sensor, or maybe a broken motor mount, but I haven't had a chance to look into it it. I did replace the purge control valve last week, which slightly improved the vibrations.
In idle and driving the car sounds rough as if a pulley was loose, after checking no pulley was loose but problem still persists. Tried turning wheel left n right n noise didn't go away or get worse its a constant noise, what it may be? Crankshaft pulley? Idler pulley?
View 2 RepliesCar is an automatic 1.8T and has a rough idle when the car is in DRIVE and I am in a full stop. Car also idles rough when in park. Not sure if it is an idle valve stabilizer, or a coilpack? Car does drive well once in motion and does not feel like it lacks power.
View 9 RepliesI bought this truck used and when it's in drive the engine idles rough and seems about to stall when the ac is on at a stop sign or red light.. I've tried it w/o the ac on and it seems a little better but not as smooth. Idle in park is fine.
When I should start looking? Spark-plugs? spark plugs wires, disturber cap, fuel filter etc...
Lately I would be stopped at a red light and my rpms would drop to 600. And when I turn my headlights on the rpms go up and the rough idle stops. Should I check it out if so what should I check? My corolla has 49.5k.
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