When I rev the engine it momentarily goes down to below normal idling speed (sometimes it completely shuts off)then goes up to normal idle. I have found that if I press the throttle too hard before it recovers it always shuts off.
View 1 RepliesThe idle speed is higher than normal, about 800-900 RPM. Whenever I stop for the traffic light, the engine will behave as if someone is pressing the gas pedal intermittently. It has new spark plug wires and coil.
View 8 RepliesWhen the car is idling or running in low speed when i power up or down the windows the car begins to vibrate. Mazda 626 year 2001.....
View 5 RepliesWell I drove the wife to work in her Prius this morning. I noticed in heavy stop go traffic, the engine was idling more than normal. Normally the EV light is on when I am stationary ( idle) in traffic, but for some reason today almost more than 70% of the stop go traffic the RPM was felt via the brake pedal and EV light was off, but the battery had at least 3 bars or more I think.
The load on the vehicle was the usual, AC on at 65 in ECO mode and radio. I guess this question might be more a hybrid newbie question than anything else. So, just curious what "drives" the vehicle to be in EV mode when stationary in traffic or in my case earlier this morning what prevented it?
About two weeks ago I noticed the engine idle start to hesitate but ONLY while idling. I was sort of leaning towards the distributor cap or rotor but that didn't add up because in the past when either of these would go out the car would just die without any warning whatsoever. So I just kept driving it and then tonight when I started the engine it was hesitating a lot more than it had been and also hesitating during acceleration but would smooth out after I would reach and maintain 40mph. The CEL also started flashing on and off. I went ahead and replaced all the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor with no improvement. Tomorrow I plan to replace the plug wires. The code it's sending is P0302 (misfire cylinder 2). If the plug wire doesn't do the trick and I can't find any leaks on the intake I'm going to try to figure out how to inspect the ignition coil (well, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out since I have two different shop manuals for this car.)
Another possibility for P0302 is low engine compression but I seriously doubt that's the problem because last time I checked the compression all 4 cylinders had above average compression. I doubt the plug wire is going to fix it since the wires only have about 20k miles on them and I don't think I have any leaks on the intake so where else I should look? Oh yeah, just remembered. I also put a stethoscope (actually a screwdriver) against the fuel injector for cylinder number 2 and it was clicking away just like the other 3 injectors so I guess the injector isn't the problem unless it can be faulty and still make the clicking noise. So should I check the injector with a meter or is the clicking enough evidence that it's working fine?
I recently got an oil change at EZ Lube and since then my engine seems to be running a little harder. You can feel it vibrating more than normal while idling and when stopped at a light when it turns off, it REALY turns off like it's choking out and sort of kicks the whole car a bit when it shuts off.
I just switched the air filter just in case as it seem similar to my old car that would die if the carburetor wasn't bringing in enough air, but I'm not as familiar with fuel injected engines. Could it be the fuel filter or other engine issue?
1996 Mazda Protege has 125,000 miles. Checkup this spring noted that the engine oil sensor was leaking, but did not note if a problem. I check the oil monthly with no problems with the oil going down. Many posts about engine oil pressure fixes, but none about leaking issues. What happens if I ignore the problem?
View 5 RepliesWhat's weird with my car recently after I recently put more engine oil into the car the next time I drove the car RPM started to zoom up past 25 mph and then it clicks back and the RPMs go back to normal. And the RPMs soup up it goes to the number three or even four RPMs. Also before this happened when I would go to a stop sign or even stop my car for a second it would shake and shut off. I mean the engine would be on but the car would not move. A couple weeks later I put transmission fluid into the car and it stopped doing that.
Listen to my car was doing this my car would be acting weird on the freeway. For example it has no problem getting on the freeway and catching up to the right miles per hour but once I get past 50 mph the check engine light will come on. When this happens nothing seems like there's anything wrong with my car but on the other hand. I don't know if it's taking too long to catch up to speed. All in all the car doesn't shake when I'm at a stop sign anymore once I put more transmission fluid in my car but this whole 50 mph and the check engine light comes on doesn't make any sense because this seems like my car is fine . 1996 mazda 626 es....
Today I went to the gas station and after I gased up and turned the car on my car started idling rough, almost to the point of cutting out. I started out on the road and my check engine light started blinking. After some time it stopped and just stayed on. The whole front end shakes pretty bad when at idle. The car has trouble accelerating till roughly 35-40 mph then seems to ride ok. I'm not very car knowledgeable, but I do take care of my car. I know I need to replace some of my hoses and spark plugs soon, but am worried that it may be more serious.
What I would like to know is: 1. What could possibly cause these issues and 2.
2003 Mazda Protege
Mazda Millenia 1996-- Smell of gasoline & exhaust coming in when driving. When we open the hood - smell of gasoline. NO apparent gasoline leaks! Mechanic found fuel injector stuck open - replaced it. Worked a little better for a little while. It seemed to only smell for 5 minutes after starting the car instead of constantly. Mechanic changed the spark plugs. Worked a little better for a couple of hours. Now it's continuous smell of gasoline and exhaust.
View 7 RepliesMKIV 1.8T. Basically the engine turns itself off for 2-5 seconds while driving (quite dangerous!!), then immediately starts back up. For that 2-5 seconds the car is coasting and slowing down. Gas pedal does nothing, but the once the engine comes back on it was as if nothing happened. No CELs or anything else to indicate something is wrong.
The problem appears to happen like most others, with gas 1/4 tank or less (sometime 1/3 tank or less), cruising between 60-75 mph. I've already replaced all spark plugs, new plug wires, air filter, fuel filter, and the Crank Position sensor. I haven't yet changed or cleaned the fuel pump, gas tank or MAF ...
I have a 1996 subaru legacy (2.2L) wagon. A couple of years ago, we had to replace the engine after a head gasket issue. A couple months after this replacement, this issue developed. The car would be idling normally, and just quit. No rough idling, no warning lights - just on / off. It only occurs with the engine idling (stop lights, parked, etc.) and will occasionally be proceeded by a rough feeling transmission shift while driving (especially between 40- 55 mph), though I do not know if it is related.
This issue is intermittent, and does not seem to occur until the engine has been running for at least some time. Normally the car will restart immediately, with a flashing A/T oil temp light that will disappear after a few seconds; however, sometimes it requires more attempts to restart, lately. I have taken the car in a few times, but, unfortunately, the subaru dealership could not replicate the issue. It is beginning to happen more frequently now, and I am about ready to take the car back in. What it could be.
I have cleaned the MAF sensor per instructions already - that seemed to work for a few weeks. I was thinking of attempting to clean the idle air control valve or replacing the fuel filter.
[URL] .... Mazda 2.3 Liter 4 cyl. accelerates fine in all gears, but once you reach a steady speed in any gear, it jerks and bumps. Does not run smooth unless you are accelerating?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 T Spirit 3 with 100k on the clock which runs perfectly fine apart from one niggly issue.
Sometimes when I brake and the speed is below 7mph it feels like the brakes have failed momentarily and the vsc light will flash and then the brakes will clamp on again.
It happens at least 20% of the time when I brake. Why this is?
I took my car to the car wash and they seemed to take longer to vacuum/wash it and while driving it away, I noticed something was off. It seems like the engine is louder than normal. Before when starting the car, it would take 30 seconds to a minute before the battery/engine would come on. Then while accelerating to about 25-35 mph, then the engine would come into gear. When going on the freeway, if accelerating at a quick speed it would sound really loud. Now, it seems like instead of silent, quiet, a little louder, louder and loudest - it's moved to the next level. When starting the car, the engine starts right away and when driving away (at less than 25 mph), the engine sound like I am on the freeway and when I'm on the freeway it sound like I'm trying to gun the engine. I don't know what it could be.
View 1 RepliesI have a Mazda 626 (V6) with about 150K miles and a funny engine racing problem. It occurs only when I'm going highway speeds (for me, 70MPH) and the car has been running for about 15 minutes. The engine will race, then chug and RPMs will drop down again, then it will race, etc. If I slow down, it will stop racing, but often start again as soon as I put my foot back on the gas pedal. If I don't get on the highway (running 60MPH and under), the car is completely fine.
I've taken it to my mechanic twice; the first time had the fuel filter replaced, the second time got new spark plugs, but it's still doing it. What else it might be?
Ok, here is what happens to my car:
The engine wobbles when idling or at very low speed - some times the engine shuts down in stop and go traffic (very dangerous). Doesn't pick up speed when i try to accelerate from a stop position - the engine revs up and then the car lurches forward (suddenly) as the transmission seems to engage. The same happen when i slow down to almost very low speed and then tries to speed up. I also hear a kind of thud (transmission most probably).
The CEL is ON and some time blinks.
My OBD is showing the following codes: P0171 P0172 P1150 P0300 P0302 P0304 and P0306
1996 Miata. The hood of my car is so hot that you could fry an egg on it. The hood is so hot that you can not put your hand on it. The heat actually comes through and can be felt on the legs of the person in the passenger seat. The temperature gauge reads normal. This began recently. I took it to the Mazda dealer who said it was normal?
View 2 Repliesabout a week ago, I noticed my stick shift sitting a little lower than normal, and now I have to actually engage clutch, then pull upward on the stick shift before I can shift gears without a problem, if I do not pull up, the car just won't shift.
View 9 RepliesOur 2005 Mazda 3 appears to have a problem with the thermostat. My mechanic read a check engine light code connected with a thermostat problem. My wife has noticed that the car seems to take longer to reach normal operating temperature than it used to (close to 15 minutes of driving). Other than probably diminishing the gas mileage and having to wait longer for nice heat is there any down-side to this problem? Is it likely to get worse and fail altogether? The shop guesstimates it will cost around $150.00 to replace.
View 15 RepliesMy wife's 2005 Mazda 3 had a bit of a noise on cold start and our mechanic thought it was connected to an intake manifold flap malfunction. Now I notice it seems to have a constant ticking noise at idle. If one of the electrical connections near the intake manifold is disconnected the noise stops. Another forum suggested that connection goes to the solenoid valve. They think that valve may be stuck open and when the connection is taken away it closes and the noise stops. At least that is what I was able to extract from the discussion. Does that make sense? The solutions I saw recommended were to either replace the intake manifold or replace the solenoid valve or don't do anything because it's not harmful other than the motor may lose a little bit of power.
View 6 Replies