Mazda - 323 :: Driver Side Front Axle Stuck In Transmission
Feb 18, 2011
My mechanic told me that something was wrong with the driver's side front axle of my 1990 Mazda 323, which has been a dream car for 21 years. He got a new axle to put in but could not get the old one out. Now it is at another mechanic's, and he also can't remove the old axle. He says there is a pin on the end and it is stuck inside the transmission (a 5-speed manual transmission). He has broken the axle trying to remove it, and now it cannot be driven.
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I noticed pool of oil yesterday morning, felt engine oil has leaked. Did oil change as it was due, the mechanic said the leak doesn't seem big enough, still overnight there was again lot of oil leaked, I kept a pan below to capture it. Checked it at auto shop near me and they said it is transmission fluid leak and probably due to driver side axle seal leak. I am going to take it again tomorrow to fix. How much do you think it will cost to fix if this is right diagnosis? This is 2005 4 cyl Ford escape with 150k on it. As per them if it is axle leak it will probably more of labor (2 hrs) than seal price.
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I have a 2003 Escape Limited 4WD with approx 163K on the clock. It developed a tranny leak from the front driver's side axle. The seal is new and in good shape as I just replaced the axle and seal a few weeks ago. (I checked the shaft size and surface finish of the axle and it is in spec.)
I just removed the axle tonight and discovered that the problem seems to be the bushing just inboard of the seal in the tranny. The axle has movement up and down when inserted. (Not good!) This is allowing the fluid to leak from the seal.
Here are my questions. Is this a simple DIY fix using a slide hammer type of puller (or similar), or is it time to take it to a tranny shop. I can not seem to find a replacement part listed anywhere.
Also, with this much mileage, should I have the tranny reworked as a precaution if this repair requires dis-assembly or should I just address the leak and think about dumping it? I would prefer to keep it as my kids are now driving age and this is primarily their vehicle. (It has been a great little truck!)
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I have a 73 F100 with a 9" rear end. I need to replace the drivers side axle shaft as the bearing retainer is starting to slide off and I'm not willing to take a chance a new bearing and retainer will do it again. They are 31 spline axles and have the ball bearings not the tapered rollers.
What year trucks can I find a replacement axle shaft? Any other thing I should be aware of in finding a replacement?
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My front driver's side tire squeaks like an old mattress when I drive, especially over any bumps or when turning. Could this be caused by a cracked wheel rim? I got new tires and had them rotated/balanced about 3 months ago. The squeaking started right before this so I asked the tire place to check it out, but they said they didn't see anything. The squeaking has become increasingly more annoying since then. Note: I also got new struts about 6 mos ago and then drove my car across country. Since then I have driven quite a bit in the city which involves very bad pot holes.
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I have a '01 F250 with a frozen u-joint in the driver side front axle. My question is can I put it together without the axle and drive it?
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I've had some awful noise coming from the front drivers side of my car. Determining the likly cause to be the wheel bearing, I decided to tackle replacing the hub assembly as a lovely weekend project. Things were going along ok - Removed brake caliper, removed the axle nut (that wasn't fun), removed the rotor (rather persistently stuck on, but it gave in the end), and then came removing the hub assembly itself. Had a rented hub puller, put it on, started tightening it down and tapping on the hub as I went. It was getting pretty tight on there (was starting to worry about the safety of the cv shaft), and then as I tapped on the hub one last time, the hub and hub puller popped off the car... I was elated, until I realized rather than pulling the entire hub assembly out, it had actually separated the inner track of the bearing from the outer track, leaving the wheel bearing and flange behind inside the steering knuckle.
So, here I sit, with half my hub assembly on the ground and the other half still in the car. How to get the rest of the hub assembly out, now that there is nothing to really pull on? I've tapped around on it for a couple hours, and soaked it in enough penetrating oil to make the car flamable, but no give. I've even tried putting the hub bolts back in through the back and tapping on them with a hammer to no avail (probably going to have to replace the bolts now, but one problem at a time).
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I have a 2000 Accent that I changed the clutch and CV Axles on and now the transmission seams to be stuck. When i got done replacing the axles and installing the brakes I spun the wheels while installing the nut to aline the cotter pin. Once I got the car down, serviced the gear oil, bled the clutch master. Went to drive the car and it wouldn't move .
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I have a 206 Lexus GS300. I am trying to remove the right side CV Axle, but it has been a hard day for me. I have removed the spindle from the lower ball joint.
I have followed the instructions to the dot, removed the snap ring before the bearing, and have worked my butt of using a slide hammer. IT is just not budging. I warmed up the bearing side of the CV Axle, tried to chisel it from the transmission side of the joint, slide hammered it switching between a 10 and 20lber, between me and my 2 sons.
I even tied a chain around the cv-axle second cylinder and used a slider on the chain It is just not budging. I opened up the left hand side cv axle to see if i punch a rod into it to pop the right side out. Doesn't look like i have anything that small and stiff to use. I am about at the end of what I can do?
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My 2005 Prius has a slow fluid leak from the driver’s side front transmission cover. My dealer says their books do not provide a repair for this and recommend replacement of the hybrid transmission (~$2800).
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My driver side axle went out. Just wondering what are our choices out there for the o2m 6spd tranny. My cousin and I ordered a set from some axle store but I doubt they are giving us the right part. ECS had them for about $300, thinking about raxles too..
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I have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
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The setup is:
MK IV .:R32 with 99,000 miles
Stage 2 clutch with 16.5 lbs. single mass flywheel
The clutch, flywheel & throw-out bearing all have about 20,000 miles on them
For some strange reason it looks like my driver's side axle keeps sliding out from it's position in the differential. This 1st happened after I did a dyno run about 6,000 miles ago. I lost half of my transmission fluid cause the axle shaft back out about a half inch. I guess the spindle stopped the shaft from backing out all the way. It appears to have happen again. What holds this axle in position? What keeps the axle from backing off like this?
My shop said the bearing/seal looked new and in good condition. Besides, it's a $15 part. We believed that the axle just snapped into position but after 4 nights at the drag strip it appears to be leaking again.
CV joints look good. Axle looks good. Transmission and differential all look good. Dog gone axle just keeps sliding out. Did the dyno runs damage something?
ALSO, on night two I did 4 strong passes back to back. Some with wheel slip and others hooked up solid. That night I developed THE HAMSTER WHEEL. Thought it was just a heat shield but I hear a noise that can only be explained by HAMSTER WHEEL. It only seems to happen when driving slow and on then off the clutch. Is it the dust shield? Is my rear main seal damaged? Or is it my timing chains on the way out. It only sounds funny at slow speeds with clutch movement. Too hard to trouble shoot alone.
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Just to clarify, I've got a UK spec B5 wagon, manual, 1.8T (AEB, I believe) and it's a 2000. Last night when I was driving home, either my CV joint or axle on the driver (right) side blew out. Needless to say, I'm going to replace my axles or just the outer joints, but I've been shopping around and I'll find parts that will fit an A4 with a 5 speed and AEB but not a Passat, or parts that fit strictly AUG or ATW engine codes. How would I go about finding which axle will actually fit my car?
Here's a video so you can hear the noise : [URL] .....
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I am getting what seems to be a leak from around the cv axle near the transmission on the passenger side. It only does it after driving and stops shortly after the car stops. How do I check the fluid on the automatic transmission.
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As I had the wheel off to change my tie rod end on my 2003 Camry, I noticed this gunk surrounding the driver side cv axle. I have changed the axle within the last year and there appears to be no grease on the rubber boot itself.
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So I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. The driver side cv axle seal started leaking a few months ago and I finally got around to repairing it. Everything went relatively smooth until I got to replacing the seal...
The problem is, it will NOT fit over the cv axle. It just won't. When the seal is installed, not matter how much force I put on the axle it will not go in. Also, I even pulled the seal back out and tried to put it onto the axle out of the car and there is no way it is going on. This is the third seal (done the rounds to through the big name parts stores) and no go.
Now, some quick car back story, I generally do all of my own repairs, but over the winter in the midst of a family tragedy I had a friend (professional mechanic with a shop) do a bunch of work to the car. He replaced the boot and joint that goes into the transmission (he did not replace the entire cv axle assembly for some reason). What I am beginning to think is that he replaced it with the wrong part.
Now, what I am wondering, is this even possible? Is it possible that it could fit and work perfectly yet be wrong? This also appears to be what broke the original seal. The inner portion of the seal was totally blown out in a circle, but perfectly, like it was crushed or cut out, and I am wondering if this happened due to having extreme force applied to it (possibly when he reinstalled it?)
That, or is it just extremely difficult / next to impossible to get these seals on? Even with both parts out of the car, stretching and pushing down on the seal (oiled it up as well to see if that would work) with all my might yields no results.
The leak was not there for the first month or so that I got the car back and then showed up. I have put about 5k miles on the car since I got it back. With Monday quickly approaching, I am wondering if I should just blow the crap out of my budget and pick up a new cv axle? I could at least have them pull one and let me see if the seal fits, I suppose.
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I have a problem with our 97 Grand Caravan, (3.3L, 41TE tranny) Its a vibration that seems to be coming from the passenger side CV Axle.... the transmission side of the universal joint on the new axle.
We started having problems with this in December, I've done most of the work myself but still had the problem... Vibrations that seem to start and get worse at around 35 - 55 MPH. I've replaced rims, wheel bearings, both cv axles, tires, brake pads & rotors, sway bar links and bushings, tie rod ends, (inner & outer) and ball joints. (about $1,200. in new parts & tires)
In April, I finally took it to several transmission shops and talked to the operators.... The shop I chose because I could relate to the owner and felt I could trust him. The wife and I knew it was a vehicle we couldn't replace for the price of a transmission overhaul and when the shop called and told me all was fixed by replacing the new cv axle on the passenger side I was ecstatic that the problem would be fixed.... I go ahead and rebuild the transmission anyway, (now @ 289,000 miles!) .... The wife and I want to get as many miles out of this thing as we can at this point and our daughter will be driving it to high school next year.
Anyway, I get the car back late on a friday evening.... by the time I got it home I knew there was a big problem.... I put it up on jacks in the garage and saw the passenger side axle was "Slamming" in and out of the transmission!!! I test drove it on a few more short trips and took it back a week later.
About 1 1/2 weeks later I get a call and the shop owner says it is the CV axle thats bad.... AGAIIN??? Lets see, I replaced the original axles. Then "they" replaced both axles after I returned the ones I put in for warranty (Autozone) and now a 3rd axle is bad too? He insists on a different brand of axle (Napa). So when I get the car back, I again am feeling some vibrations.... not nearly as bad as it was before, and put the car up on jacks again.
This time, I don't see the axle slamming in and out of the tranny but I see the vibration comming from the trany side of the CV axle. (passenger side axle again) and I notice some grey goop on the housing fitting that wasn't there before on the trany.... This is when I started having my doubts about the shop and what they are telling me. They just replaced the axle, didn't do anything in the tranny. To beat all, theres now a fluid leak somewhere and its staining the garage floor.
Its been over two weeks now and the shop owner called me to tell me that its again the passenger side axle thats bad and that its a seal somewhere tha'ts leaking so he's gonna have to pull the tranny to get at it. I told him what I saw when I put it up on jacks in my garage.... the vibrating CV axle on the passenger side of the tranny.... He assures me that if it were a bearing it would be making some noises. He's even sent the car to a trusted tire shop and they turned the rim on the tire or something.... he's doing everything he can to make sure the problem is taken care of.
I know what I saw under the car. Just the "passenger side" axle as it is coming out of the transmission housing is moving up/down/around and that's where my vibration is coming from. The end of the axles (tire side) were running true. What's involved in repairing the differential side bearings in these tranny's? I'm going fully loaded to the Transmission shop when its ready and I'm going to insist we look at it while its on the rack. I just need to know how to check these differential side bearings.
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Its a automatic transmission with a v6 4.3 vortec. The front axle will not engage, it is not the acuator (I replaced it and the cable) you can pull the cable and the axle will engage. There is a low buzzing noise(coming from the drivers side) until you give it gas. This noise stops when the front axle is engaged. The transfer case will go from hi to low without any problems.
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My 2004 Mazda3 is having an air conditioner issue. The driver side air vents blow hot air, but the passenger side air vents blow cool air (not as cool as I think it should be, just cooler than the hot side.) We had issues with it last summer that were repaired and freon was added at that time.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo that has me stumped as to why it leaks. The driver side axle seal leaks fluid only after a drive. I have replaced the axle twice and seal 6 times and it still leaks. I am stumped on this one. Unless I got a bad axle twice that the diameter of the sealing surface is too small but didn't seem like it as the seal hugs the shaft.
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