Mazda :: 2009 - Stalls Intermittently After Stopping Usually At Red Lights
Jun 29, 2013
My 2009 Mazda Cx-9 stalls intermittently after stopping, usually at red lights. It will start back up, and no problem. The steering wheel will lock when this happens. Also on the highway, it will buck/lurch but keeps going. The engine light never comes on so the repair shop cannot seem tell me the cause of the problem. It doesn't happen everyday, and has been happening since I bought the car 18 months ago. However, in the last two days, it has stalled six times. The repair shop today says that they need to do a throttle (?) clean and that "should" clean it up. But I don't know... what do you think?There isn't a noise I can tape, because alas, there is no noise !
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I have a 2000 Mazda 626, V6, 5-speed with 157,000 miles. The car cuts out (as if it's loosing fuel) and stalls intermittently. This has been happening for 3-4 weeks and neither my regular mechanic nor the Mazda dealer can figure out what's wrong. Here's what they've tried: new fuel pump (replaced 3 times to make sure parts not faulty), new wires and plugs, new alternator belt, replaced fuel pressure regulator, replaced mass air sensor, cleaned/checked fuel & air filters, replaced coil/distributor (2 times to make sure part not faulty), checked for vacuum leaks, checked ignition/sensors (CAM and others).
It has been stalling intermittently for 3-4 weeks, though for a while would not do it when with the mechanic. Also, the check engine light would never come on, so there were no codes to check into. Sometimes after it would stall, it would not start up again until the engine was cold. Recently, it stalled when the mechanic was test driving it. He pulled off the mass air sensor and it started right up. He replaced that part and the car was driving OK for several days. I even took it on a couple 2.5 hour round trips. Today, however, I could not get it started. It would turn over, but not fire and it seems to me that it wasn't getting enough fuel.
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I have a 1999 Mazda 626 with a 157k miles. The problem I'm having is after driving for a while and stopping my car it doesn't restart either dies out really quickly or won't catch. I had it towed home twice each time after it sits overnight it restarts with no problem, but does the same thing after driving for a while.
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I've got a 2009 Mazda3 hatchback, 31,000 miles. As I'm sure you know, it's very cold in the Northeast today. It was -12F on my drive in to work! I went out to lunch with a coworker today, and it had warmed up quite a bit to about 25F. As I was driving back to work - 40mph on a dry, straight stretch of road - my check engine light and traction control/stability control light came on. They aren't flashing, just steady. The traction control light will flash if I hit a particularly bad patch of slush, but it's never lit up on a dry road before.
Right after the light came on, the automatic transmission started feeling...funny. It was shifting hard, although downshifting felt okay. My coworker even noticed before I said anything. I don't think it was the traction control - it was specifically as the automatic transmission was shifting, not at any other time. I've read through the TSBs and didn't see anything relevant, and I've already made an appointment for tomorrow at the dealer. I've only got 5,000 miles left in my warranty so I'm a little nervous - the car has been terrific so far.
I would think the traction control light would be unrelated to the transmission, so I'm a little confused. Also, just to rule out a few other things - the last time I got gas was about a week ago and I still have a third of a tank. I don't think this is a gas cap problem or frozen gas, both of which I've experienced before (in other cars).
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07 saturn vue, 4cyl motor, auto trans. torque conv occasionally will not unlock so motor will stall at stop. a used trans is quite cheap for these rigs. and they come with the TC. would a new TC fix this issue? or is it more of an issue of worn seals inside trans? i would hate to spend 200 on new TC and not touch trans when i can get a lower mile used unit.
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Recently my car has stalled on me when I've stopped at stop lights. The radio stays on, but I think it's just the engine that turns off. I have to turn the car compleltly off and then on again. It sometimes takes a few tries, but it does turn on again and I am able to drive it again. I have taken it to a repair shop twice now and both times they've said they cant replicate the problem and cant seem to figure out whats wrong. They have scanned my car and I was told they didnt get any codes telling them of the problem.
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We have a 2009 Tiguan with 95K Kilometres on it. The first time this happened was about a year ago. W were driving on the highway (somewhat fast) coming around a curve and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. TPM, Power Steering, EPS (anti skid), AFS (lighting) and I think one other. We turned around and called the dealership. They poked around for a while, flashed the firmware (just in case) but couldn't find a cause.
The problem did not recur until a couple of months ago, same trouble lights. (note we currently have winter tires on and so TPM isn't even hooked up). We had just had a fairly major service done (one of the scheduled ones) and they DID replace a bulb for an AFS fault a few days earlier.
We again returned to the dealership and they came to the conclusion that it's the battery, cause when they swapped it out, it cleared the trouble code (but I think this is a red herring as there is probably NVRAM that got cleared, so of course the trouble code went away). We balked a bit at the $200 they wanted for the replacement (as we were considering trading it in at that time), so the popped our battery back in and again it did not recur until yesterday.
It happens when cornering (hard? at moderate speed? Not sure), but I can almost make it happen on demand. Turning the car off for a while will usually clear the fault.
I've read a few threads and indeed a low battery can cause such issues, but I still kind of think it's a faulty sensor when so many (somewhat) unrelated faults going off. I was especially interested in this thread..steering-light but they seem to only have a power steering light come on, so I don't know. I threw a meter onto the battery just now and I suppose it could be a bit low with the meter showing 11.98 - 12.00 volts at the terminals.
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I've got a 99 Ford Escort Se 4 door sedan, Automatic trans with about 140k miles on it that randomly stalls when stopping at a red light. It is random and rare, but it does happen.
When it stalls, it sounds and feels like something is mechanically stopping the engine, like maybe it's not disconnecting from the automatic transmission. I can hear the engine working hard as the car slows down, it jumps around in the engine compartment a little bit, then dies as the car comes to a complete stop.
Then I start the car back up, everything is back to normal and I drive away with no further problems for the rest of the trip.
What can cause this? Does this car have a TCC clutch in the torque converter? Is it maybe randomly being falsely triggered to apply at low speed?
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I have a 1991 Buick century with 160,000 miles. It wasn't driven for about a year and about 8 months ago I changed the plugs, wires, and oil and it has run great since then...until yesterday. Now, every time I slow down to come to a stop (or below 20mph) the car jumps and jerks and acts like it is wanting to lock up and stalls. It starts back up put every time I put it in drive (just drive) it stalls again. I end up having to put it in neutral, rev the engine, then put it in drive real quick. Talking to my dad, who I got the car from, he told me it used to have this same problem and that is why he quit driving it. We have a couple of theories
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe with 108k miles on it that seems to have an attitude problem. I was driving home from a Christmas get together on the highway, when my engine stalled, hiccuped, stopped and the check engine light came on. When I tried restarting the car, the engine wouldn't fire. The battery was fine, and I had a half tank of gas. After about 15 minutes of sitting, I was able to get the car started and driving again. After about a day and a half and a refueling, the check engine light went out and the car behaved as normal until this evening.
I went to the gas station, put $15 in the tank (brought the tank up to about half), and as I was stopped waiting to pull onto the road, the engine died. No hiccuping, rough running or anything, it just plain stalled and shut off. Again, after ~15 min, it started. I turned back up the road to head home (Was going to head about 30 miles west to see a friend but decided against it), after I stopped at a stop light, it stalled out again same thing. Waited ~15 min, it started back up with the check engine light back on. (But wait there's more!) Another stoplight, another stall. This time however, it would not start at all after 30 plus minutes. By this point, my battery was pretty run down, so I managed to get a friend to give me a tow.
I have to bring it it for servicing tomorrow anyway for a completely unrelated issue, and just towed it over to the dealer.Any clue what gives or what I should make sure the dealer does?
The internet seems to want to point me towards a bad ignition coil or a bad crankshaft sensor, but my mechanically inclined friends are leaning towards an electrical issue or a problem with the fuel filter/pump/line.
The check engine code is P0335
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I have a 2010 Ford F-150 4WD 4 Door. The dome light, marker lights and truck bed light will light up intermittently at night. They will stay illuminated any where from 1 minute up to 15 minutes. I thought maybe my TV remote control was activating the remote entry feature on my truck but that is not the case.
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My wife came in the house the other day and told me my lights were on. When I went out to see, they were not. I chalked this up to the sun reflecting on the truck. Later I was working in the driveway and saw them come on, they stayed on for a minute then went back off. Strangest thing I have ever seen. The keys were hanging on the hook in the house. I checked the light switch and it was in Auto. I moved the switch to Off. Later that night I saw it happen again. They came on for a second them right back off. This is a 2010 F-150 4x4 Lariat. I have about 120K miles. What might be causing this or steps I can take to narrow the troubleshooting?
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My friend told me for the past year she has been having trouble with her sentra. she has taken it to the dealer & they could not figure out whats going on. So here is what she described to me. '02 nissan sentra exe with 54k miles. when she gets to a stop light/sign and the car is at idle, it stalls. she said it stalls when slowly going in reverse out of her driveway and when she slows down to pull into her driveway. the check engine light has never turned on and the car starts back up again right away. What is going on?
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I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 150,000 miles that is meticulously maintained. This past winter (as far as winter goes in San Diego) the engine would run rough and the rpm's would drop close to stalling when stopping at a light for the first 2 or 3 miles. After that the engine has warmed and there is no problem. Could this be the intake gaskets needing replacement. This only happens on a cool or damp, rainly morning.
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord SE Sedan. 119K miles. The transmission slips sometimes especially when I start after stopping at a red light. My mechanic recommended not to change the transmission fluid as the transmission can go down and might need a new transmission. He also told me that 2002 Honda Accords are known for this issue.
So my question: Is my mechanic right? Or should I go ahead and flush the transmission fluid and replace it?
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I hear a grinding noise from tire area when in motion and when stopping and happens only intermittently. I have taken my 06 chevy uplander to 2 auto repair shops and to a chevy dealership repair shop now and all three say they can't find anything wrong with it. shortly after, the noise happened again but now when it occurs the display screen reads... Service ABS system and service Traction system... when i turn the engine off and back on again the warning is no longer there unless the noise occurs then will read both again.
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I have a Mazda Tribute with a manual transmission. About two years ago a sporadic issue started occurring. I would drive somewhere with no problems. Stop the car and park. Then when I would go to drive off the car would stall. It stalls and stalls and stalls. Start up the engine, it cuts out. Weird thing is that I can limp home. I give it gas and I back up. Then when I stop it stalls. I shift into 1st and drive, I can get up to highway speeds no problem, then drive (the most I have had to go is 45 miles) on the highway, but when I get off and get to a stop or a light, the car stalls. Start it up and keep this going all the way home.
Two hours later, get in the car... like NOTHING happened. I have brought it to my mechanic, the dealership and asked countless friends to no avail. They always say "bring the car to me when its doing that." The one time I had a shot at that, I got it to the dealer, and then it didn't stall. It stalled the whole way to the dealer, but not when I got there.
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When I am slowing to a stop, my engine idle gets really low (like 500rpm or less) and sometime stalls. At the same time, the oil light comes on. It does this all the time, and yes I've had my oil changed recently and actually I just checked it the other day and it was fine (along with all other fluids).
I've had the mechanic take a look at this three times and every time something gets fixed but this problem remains. They now say it's a ghost. It is not the air intake (I've had all of the hoses checked and a bad one replaced). It's not the electrical (I've had the spark plugs and cables replaced about a year and a half ago).
I've pretty much had everything that a car of a certain age needs done fixed/replaced in the past year or so, and I still can't figure out what could be causing this. A recent show had a similar problem, but the gal didn't mention the low idle/stalling. In that show they mentioned that she should have the oil pressure gauge checked or replaced, but would that cause the low idle/stalling? I don't know what to do and I'm very reluctant to go to a dealer.
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I have a 2004 mazda b2300 4cyl 5 speed that wants to stall on me sometimes when I engage the clutch and all most come to a complete stop. It does not happen every time i do this, but some of the time. I am able to instantly restart the truck and drive just fine. I am just confused at what might cause this. I did a tune up to it this weekend, and the cap from the clutch fluid did come off, I don't know if this would have anything to do with it. The truck runs great, just wants to stall some times.
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I have a 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege that is having a stalling problem. The motor has about 30k miles on the block with around 3k miles on the internal components (rods, pistons, cams, etc.). Cylinders were bored 20 over and head was machined.
This stalling, or almost stalling, problem occurs when I start the car after it's been warm for awhile. For example, if I were to drive for an hour, park it for 45 minutes, and then come back out to start it up. It'll fire up, drop to idle, and then the idle will dip, stalling 50% of the time. The rough idle lasts anywhere from 5 to 20 seconds, and then usually fixes itself.
Giving it some gas does nothing to alleviate the problem; sometimes making it worse. Cleaning the idle air control valve solved this for a few days, and then it was back to its old ways. These symptoms do not occur on cold starts or if I restart the car after 5 or 10 minutes of it sitting. We couldn't find any vacuum leaks and there are no codes being displayed.
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Problem started with the front end shaking a little bit when braking like the rotors needed turning. Then the brakes began to intermittently hum when stopping. Then my ABS light came on. Put the truck up on the stands and disassembled the brakes on both sides. The ABS sensor was chewed up on the driver side. The less than year old hub felt sloppy so I changed it. Put everything back together.
New hub came with new ABS sensor. Went for a test drive ABS light is gone and I no longer shake or experience the hum when applying the brakes. However now when I go to stop right before I come to a complete stop the driver side (new hub/spindle side) I hear what sounds like the grade school class clown making a fart sound with his mouth, and the truck pulls to the driver side. Is the ABS system malfunctioning or is this a caliper issue? Calipers look like they are OEM.
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