Mazda :: 2007 - Engine Malfunction / Gets Overheated
Dec 30, 2013
I had a Mazda CX-7 Grand Touring AWD.I bought it with a damage cylinder head, I replaced plus new rings and bearings and star overheating right away.I replace radiator cap, radiator, water pump, thermostat and still overheating.I took it to a mechanic, he tested and he told me the head gasket was blow and I had compression going to the cooling system, therefore the head gasket have to be replaced again.I give him the ok, and after the job is done, the car keep doing the same and he doesn't know what's wrong and me neither.
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Year of vehicle: 2007
Make of vehicle: Mazda
Model of vehicle: 3i Touring
Mileage/Kilometers: 80,000+ Miles
My Mazda 3i has been acting up a bit lately, where the engine has been getting louder (particularly in 4th gear, though it's a pretty quiet car so I might not be able to tell in lower gears). This morning, there also was a faint ticking, 1/second or so that went away once the car warmed up.
Recent work that has been done to it: Brakes replaced, Oil changed, fluids topped off.
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When I am going between 55+ mph my car starts to shake when I use my brakes. The mechanic at the Mazda dealership told me that the brake rotors are warped and need replacing. I asked the mechanic how this happened when I have such low mileage on the car. He said that the rotors would warp if they overheated which could happen if I brake going downhill, doing a lot of city driving, or if carrying a heavy load.
My car has only about 11,600 miles on it. Monday-Friday I drive 5 miles to work each way. On weekends I drive about 50 miles on the highway. I do not ride the brakes and I can only think of two times in the 2 years I have had the car that I have had to slam the brakes on hard. Clearly, most of the brake use is during my drive to work, but that is only 5 miles one way.
I explained that I do not carry heavy loads since I normally drive by myself and maybe a dog or two. I also explained that the other situations he posted of braking when going downhill or doing a lot of city driving sound like normal driving situations, and not anything that should cause rotors to warp? The mechanic said that he could only tell me what would cause my rotors to warp and that how I drive is "on me".... grrrr. Not happy with that response at all.
I bought an extended warranty when I bought the car new and was at this time told that because the rotors are warped, as opposed to cracked, they aren't covered by the extended warranty because warping is considered a result of routine use. The repair is also not covered because I am over 12 months on the normal warranty.
Does this scenario sound right in a car with this mileage? Could I possibly have warped the rotors during a 5-mile commute to work? If so, what do I need to do to prevent this from happening again, because I am not willing to pay $350+ every 12,000 miles to replace rotors? I have been driving for over 40 years and have never run into this problem before. This is my first Mazda though, and it very well may be my last.
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I replaced water pump with timing belt and thermostat. Took a test drive and engine still overheats. Radiater fan kicks in when it's hot. The upper hose from radiator to engine is very hot, only allows me to touch for 1 sec. But, the lower hose is warm, I can leave my fingers over it 10 sec or more. What is the problem? do I have a restricted radiator? Do I need a new one or I can flush and clean it. I posted a thread earlier regarding gunk in cooling system. I change coolant annually but it alway get brownish once it gets circulated around. The antifreeze leaked out from the car at junk yard where I removed the thermostat housing, looks much better than mine.
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On a long trip (about halfway through a 1500 mile journey), I ran over a tire at 65 miles an hour. I stupidly kept going (as I was heading to the hospital to literally be with my father as he was dying). After 350 more miles (with 5 hours of rest in between) the car was showing hot (with no smells or symptoms) so I pulled into a shop. When the mechanic went out to pull the car in, it would not start. They let it cool and pulled it in, did a test and showed me a tube with the radiator fluid in it that was greyish. They told me my head gasket was blown and that the cost of repairing it was the same as the value of my car. I had to abandon the car, and rent a car to get to my dad. He died, and now I'm having to deal with the car.
The insurance company said they would cover the bumper damage but not the engine, as they could not prove running over the tire caused the engine to overheat. The car has 200,000 miles on it and is 13 years old, but had a new timing chain, pump, etc. ($1,900) of work a few months ago...and was running like a charm. There have never been any concerns about the engine in the past and the car has never overheated for any reason. I take care of it meticulously. It seems suspicious to me that there would be no link between running over a tire earlier that day, and the overheating.
When the owner of the shop put it on the lift, he says there was nothing obvious like a hose hanging down, etc., and so he thinks its unrelated to running over the tire. Because he said this, the insurance company will not cover the engine repair or give me a check for the totaled car.
I'm thinking of having the car towed to a different shop to get a second opinion. What should they look for? How can I prove this is linked? Now, the car has sat for 10 days. Is all evidence going to be gone at this point. What should I do? I have $3,000 to lose here, by giving up.
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I drove 10 hours in my 02 Ford Taurus perfectly fine then a day later New Year's Day car didn't start for some reason I took it to the shop turns out I needed a new alternator, battery, new belt, made sure all wiring was good, and topped off all fluids (which were very low) ...... After that everything was fine for awhile then in the evening I drove bout 36-40 mins turns out my fan wasn't on the whole drive and car started smoking bad (white smoke) when I got to a parking garage popped the hood water was trying to burst out of its compartment in a panic.
I opened the dam thing shit spewed everywhere and burned my arm we let the car cool down started it again added water to the tank where it was lost everything seemed ok then not too long later I was getting off the highways car starts smoking yet again but this time the engine literally stop working I pull over looked under the hood white smoke is now coming from engine and when I try to restart it it's starts and died couple seconds later and from the looks of it I was leaking some fluid as I was getting off the highway and still was leaking something when I pulled over. I just got smacked for the alternator earlier in the day and now all this happens and I'm so confused ...
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I drove an Avante 09. Recently, my car was breakdown due to engine overheated, as radiator coolant is dry out and noticed there is a hole in in the pipe and hence cause leakage in the system. As the breakdown was happened in johor bahru, I have no choice but towed my car to hyundai msia dealer workshop in JB. However, after they check, they refuse to repair it due to the reason they do not have the spare parts, as my version is 1600cc and msia version is 2000cc.
Thereafter, I towed my car to the workshop in JB, recommend by my friend in JB. After they checking, the said my engine block is made of aluminum, very easy get out of shape when overheated. They say by changing the headset parts will not completely solved the problem, said to completely solve the issue must changed the engine block. To me, by changing the engine block equivalent changing the whole engine, am i correct?
Any bro here facing engine overheated due to dry out of coolant? Can cause such a big issue? In fact I am a bit doubt on their diagnosis. I don't really think the overheat will cause the engine block damage.
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Sonata 2007, SE, V6 3.3 engine, 110000m .... I was driving today on a highway and 5 miles from home notice no hot air coming in cabin. Outside temp was 20 degree. Accidentally AC button must been pushed since the light was on. Engine temp gauge was off and few times it jumped from off (as in completely cold engine) to overheated (max top value). Drove back home and let it cool. I can see there is no coolant left. Obvious there is leak somewhere but the only visible spot is on the passenger side, towards the front of the engine compartment - seems like the leak is from the AC coolant hose between the front and the low pressure service port - or the AC pressure transducer.
Antifreeze can be seen under that part, but is clear that it has not come from the overflow reservoir or any main hose. Is there antifreeze flowing on those parts or should I look at somewhere else? Coolant splash seems too high to be from the water pump - definitely seems as leak from above on one of the hoses or the A/C Pressure transducer. Can this be the primary reason or this is just safety due to other (thermostat or other) issue with the cooling system? What can be done?
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My knucklehead brother, re-living the past, borrowed my '96 Civic and sped off to a heavy metal concert - Mega-Death (may be prophetic here). His head was in a blissful dungeon. It was a 55 F day, near sundown, he'd gone 20 miles. He was going up a fairly steep hill and the engine started pinging loudly (something it's never done before), then he noticed the temp. gauge pegged. Instead of stopping immediately and looking under the hood where he would have found no water in the radiator, he "fixed" the problem on the fly by turning on the heater. The car continued to ping and run poorly. He continued to drive another mile up hill (about 2 minutes more) whence he stopped the car and shut off the engine, opened the hood, found ZERO water in the radiator (no steam). I have not tried to start the car since - had it towed. What should I do before trying to start it (besides adding coolant)? What should I do to find out if lasting engine damage was done? The engine ran like new prior to this - has 180k miles. Stevie1959 P.S: How much is he to blame for this - he's a 50 year old, experienced driver, amateur mechanic? - he tells me I gave him a car with no coolant in it (Not true!, I drove it that very day, no puddles of coolant anywhere).
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I have a hyundai elantra 2005 with over 200K mi. last month it started overheating. I could not go a mile before it reached H again. No one could find any leaks and fan would go on if I put the AC on. Yet it would get so hot the car wouldn't start ( sounded like it was out of gas) I finally got to my mechanic and they said and showed me the fan had cracked and was bubbling water/coolant out. It had been okay could I have made it crack by still driving it? I stopped everytime and let it cool down..
They replaced fan but car was still going to H immediately. They then told me I had blown the head gasket. Between that and the fan it cost me 1100.00 I just got it back today and the AC is blowing hot air and it is driving oddly. It lurches and the tach sometimes jumps to 3 while I'm driving. they also replaced the timing belt again which the mechanic there had just did a few months ago. It feels like its going to stall out all the time and when I get around the 60 mph mark it lurches or feels like its not even in gear as though I'm revving it. Could this be normal because the head gasket is new and has to break in?
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My radiator gave way on the highway, and by the time I noticed it the temp had maxed out the gauge and all the coolent was gone. So, I only have 90k on my '94 Camry and I'm debating whether to tackle repairs and perhaps a rebuild if necessary. What's the likelihood that there's damage to the rings, bore, crank, valves, etc due to the overheat? How much repair am I potentially looking at and what can I check without a tear-down? I'd like to get it running again since I just invested in new struts, brake calipers and MS and tires (not to mention that it has been pretty-much worry-free until now), but I want to know whether it's even worth my while.
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I have a nissan altima 2001. I have 128,000 miles on it. I have fully paid for the car. While climbing a steep hill at 2nd gear, the engine overheated, and I seem to have broken the gasket. What are my prospects? Should I put a new engine, should I fix the gasket or should I abandon the car?
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Have 1994 F150 with 5.0L engine. Check engine light, intermittent on due to overheated O2 sensor. Replace sensor, light goes off. The sensor will last longer in cold weather but will fail with same code. Is the overheating due to an electrical problem from the ECU or ambient tempreture. Would like to sell truck but don't want to hand the buyer a dozen O2 sensors.
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Temperature gauge stuck past hot since my engine overheated once due to a broken water pump belt...
How can I fix a stuck coolant temperature gauge?
Its on a 1998 Mercury Mystique.
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My points to electronic conversion suffered this problem, just started, set the timing and was idling, like ten minutes or more, suddendly the engine died, no spark, immediately I noticed the module was very hot, so was the ignition coil, it's a TFI "square" coil from a 1987 Econoline I6, the module is a new Spartan brand name blue module.
I cooled the module with a wet rag and the engine came back to life. I hooked up the module and the coil with full 12V, no ballast resistance for the coil, I'm feeling this is the problem, maybe this coil needed a ballast resistor?
I have this 1.6 ohmm ballast, if I install this, will the coil run cooler and put less strain in the module, so it won't overheat? or the TFI coil is wrong for the Duraspark ? it was running fine with the points, never missed a beat, never tested how hot it run with the points though, but I did used the ballast resistor with the points.
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Got a call from my wife earlier today. My 6.0 overheated on her and now its having issues.
Its got around 135k miles, always been taken care of, never missed an oil change and just recently changed/flushed the coolant system with Rotella Ultra ELC. I also cleaned the EGR, which looked great when I pulled it.
So tonight, she was driving it, and she gets the "check gauges" light come on, and notices its temp is hitting the red line. She pulls over, turns it off and calls me. I leave work, and pick up 4 gallons of distilled water just in case. It had cooled off a bit when I got there, so we added 3 gallons of distilled and it fired up and I drove it home. The temp was back to normal and running fine, but I was seeing a good bit of white smoke coming from the exhaust. I couldnt really tell if it was steam or something else. When I got home, I turned the truck off and the exhaust looked wet, which was odd since its about 80 degrees today, and there shouldn't be any condensation forming.
I let the truck sit for a few hours and went out to start it again, and now, the engine wont even turn over. The starter engages the flywheel, but it just goes "CLUNK!" and the crank never even tries to spin.
What is going on. The truck ran fine and was running at normal temp after I added the water. My wife didn't drive it but a few hundred yards after getting the "check guages" and noticing it was hot.
Is it possible that my EGR cooler or something has burst and filled my intake and engine with coolant, causing it to hydrolock? Or is the engine just completely seized?
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However, selecting Mode setting to the floor on the climate control build (as I read) does not seem to turn off the AC from running to off with outside air only. Also, the OFF button does stop everything but once the fan speed is turned up its cold air blowing.
I read through the entire section in the owners manual and there is nothing mentioning it will run if AC is not selected nor any other over ride procedure. I am thinking this is a unique SF Limited issue and solutions for other models don't hold true for me. With the temperature much hotter its not difficult to feel the difference blowing out the vents.
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We have a 2007 Mazda5 we recently purchased used from a Mazda dealer. We learned later that the car has had numerous repairs the dealer didn't disclose, including a radiator fan replacement and possible new radiator. We noticed that the radiator fan was constantly running, even if the engine wasn't but the key was in the "on" position. The fan shut off when the AC was turned on. We took it to our local dealer for diagnostics who said that wires had been crossed in the original repair, that they connected the wires so that the fan would always run and that we needed a new fan control module.
We tried out a new module but it didn't fix the problem, fan still runs all the time and is very loud. Husband thinks the fan might be blowing in the wrong direction: currently towards the radiator. Another problem, which may or may not be related, is that the AC only works well at high vehicle speeds. When traveling in town, the AC blows very mediocre cool and moist air. According to the original owner, they put in a new AC compressor and a new pressure switch and the AC apparently worked well.
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The problem that causes the check engine light to come on cannot be traced. The diagnosis is multi engine misfire. The dealer has checked and recheckedbut problem still exists. The last time my mechanic changed spark plugs he noticed oil on one of the plugs he removed in the rear side of the engine. He replaced the plug with the rest of them. Could it be that one or more of the spark plugs are sucking oil and causes the misfire? If so what could be the cause of that. Do I need a full tuneup? My dealer recommends replacing the cam shaft pulley because it's loose and this may or may not solve the problem. I'm not a mechanic but it appears as if the problem has something to do with the spark plugs sucking oil since the check engine light might go ou for a week or so and then come back on for a while. Lastly is it dangerous to keep driving the car especially on long trips?
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When I pull the wipers lever backwards, washer fluid supply in tank lowers, but there don`t come liquid out for the jets.
The rear jets don`t spray liquid . The auto sweeping function works OK (7 times).
The only way to spray a little of liquid is pulling the lever many times at once.
I deduct that the fluid is going or evaporating somewhere, The pump makes the noise that`s working...as always.
Someone told me that ejectors are clogged, but I used a pin to clean them and some liquid spits out.
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I have the VSC light, ABS Light, BRAKE light all on.
Check VSC System, Check ABS System, Check Brake System, Brake Malfunction.
I went to start the car this morning, battery was dead. Jump Started, and all these messages came up.
I have disconnected the battery for a good 2 hours, still no luck. I charged the battery. So its starts right up now.
The Brake Pedal is really HARD. When you brake, the car leans to the front Right Side.
When I reconnected the battery, The Brake Pedal is soft, but is instantly hard when Started.
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